Given the vast numbers of different species and types of turtles and tortoises in the world,  these brief turtle care guidelines must be very general.  Each of the many species have specialized requirements in regard to diet, temperature, environment, etc.  This material is offered to the new or prospective turtle owner merely as a starting point for further and more specialized research.  We strongly urge you to seek out professionally prepared books and periodicals available at your local pet store, herp society or library for more detailed care information about your particular type of turtle or tortoise.  Check out the Books and Magazine Page of this web site for some suggested sources of information.

If you have a concern or question about your pet's health or medical condition, you are urged to consult with a qualified veterinarian.  The content of these turtle care guidelines are for general informational purposes only and should not be used for medical diagnosis purposes or as the sole source of your turtle and tortoise care and husbandry information.  The Chicago Turtle Club, The Chicago Herpetological Society, and their individual members are not responsible for any errors or omissions that may be contained within the following information.

Turtles and tortoises, like people vary in their needs and personalities.  Please research your animal to meet its specific requirements.   Your initial commitment will be rewarded with a healthy, happy, and interesting pet that will entertain your family for years.
 

A turtle, let's use the  fresh water Cooter as an example, has all her needs provided by Nature.  Under the best of circumstances, there is abundant clean water in her pond - filtration of turtle waste is not a concern given the sheer water volume and the natural cleansing of beneficial microbial action.  There are ample insects, minnows, and vegetable matter in the surrounding environment.  Instinctively, she hunts those foods suitable for her diet that promote energy and health.  Since she is cold-blooded she instinctly regulates her body temperature by basking on her favorite sunny log or by cooling in the pond's deeper, shady pools.  The sunlight contains both warming rays and unfiltered ultraviolet light - the UV lights aids her body in processing calcium into strong bones and a health shell.  When it is time to lay eggs, she crawls out of the pond and finds a well drained area on the shore to deposit her eggs. She and her kind have survived for millions of years without the intervention of Man.

However as Man intervenes, the natural equation dramatically changes.   Consider the captive pet turtle.  The turtle's keeper must provide an artificial environment that simulates in miniature all the conditions of the wild turtle for the pet turtle to thrive. The keeper must provide clean tempered water and maintain the cleanliness and temperature of the water.  Mechanical and biological filtration is usually required.  The keeper must provide a basking lamp of the proper intensity and temperature and usually provides an additional UV light source. The keeper must provide an aquarium of sufficient size and depth in order for the turtle to swim freely and must supply a haul out area for the turtle to bask and dry her shell. The keeper must wisely choose nutritious foods with proper vitamin and mineral supplementation suitable in light of the turtle's natural diet, age, size, and health.

As a prospective or new turtle owner, the well being of your turtle is now in your hands.  In order to fulfill that commitment for your turtle's health, happiness and well-being, you must make a financial and educational commitment to create the a healthful environment.  Let's explore the scope of that commitment.
 

Proper diet is essential. Vitamins and minerals are necessary to chelonians (turtles and tortoises) just as they are to humans. A varied diet, composed of healthy foods, is the best way to ensure your animal's health. Vitamin and mineral supplementation is an option if a suitably varied diet is not provided. Any vitamin supplement for people, birds, dogs or reptiles that contains D3 given in proper proportional to the turtle's size and age is fine - but it must specify D3... not D, D2 or anything else.
 

Food selection is a difficult area to adequately summarize since there is so much diversity of diet in the turtle world.  Some turtles are pure carnivores, some are strictly vegetarians,  many eat a combination of animals and plants.   Some change their dietary habits as they grow older.  Diets of aquatic turtles, land turtles, and tortoises vary greatly.  This is an area where you must do some fundamental  research about your particular animal's dietary habits.   Generally, a proper diet can be defined as a diet that closely resembles what your turtle would eat in the wild.

Many people refuse to use live food, and opt for pre-killed, frozen foods.  Do not use frozen fish, it contains an enzyme that will destroy the vitamin Thiamine. Thaw frozen food completely before feeding. Aside from the complications in maintaining live food, their demise at the jaws of your turtle is often painfully slow and inhumane.

Earthworms, waxworms, mealworms are accepted, usually, as are whole fish. When a fish is cleaned, it loses most of its nutritional value.   Guppies and minnows are usually easy to obtain. Goldfish and smelt are oily and should be offered only in small quantities. Crayfish can carry a bacteria known to cause shell lesions in turtles. Wash them thoroughly if you use them. Crickets, canned dog food and beetles are usually taken. Larger specimens may also take mice, or chicks. Avoid using food animals from areas where pesticides are used- they are one supplement to avoid!

Turtles will usually take prepared dry foods such as Purina Trout Chow. Soak, to soften it, before offering .

Plant items accepted (usually) are apples, bananas (in moderation, bananas can lower Calcium levels in your turtle), berries, pears, peaches, oranges, and melons. Use fruit, not normally found in your animal's home range, sparingly. Dark green leafy vegetables are more nutritious than head lettuce. These greens include mustard, endive, turnip, romaine, collard and dandelion. Beet tops, prickly pear cactus, etc. are available in stores. Rabbit or alfalfa pellets, timothy hay and carrots are also options. Again, try to emulate your animal's natural diet as closely as possible.

Enclosures must be kept as clean as possible. For land turtles, black and white newsprint is inexpensive and easily replaced. (Avoid pages with colored inks on them. Read the funnies to your pet, but don't provide them as substrate!) Astroturf looks nice. Cut 2 pieces to the exact size of the tank. When soiled, rinse off and wash. Replace with the second piece. Flipped grass-side down, it holds in moisture, this helps with humidity, and decreases the chances of your animal getting his nails caught in the mat or unraveling or eating it. Avoid gravel, corn cob, sand and kitty litter. They tend to hold unwanted (urine) moisture in and may be swallowed, leading to impactions.

Water - This is the water they have to drink. Would you want to drink it? Neither would they. Change it!

For land turtles... research your animal's needs! A shallow water pan, large enough for the animal to sit and soak in adds to the quality of their life. Be careful regarding the depth and ease of access to the water pan.  Many land turtles are not good swimmers and may drown in deeper than shallow water or may have difficulty exiting the pan.  Keep the water clean. Change when fouled- usually that's daily. The alternative is to soak them every day, in a pan somewhere else. Don't use the kitchen sink, for sanitary reasons!

For water turtles (sliders, snappers, painted turtles, etc.) a filter is essential unless you plan to change the water every couple of days.  Even the largest filter is no substitute for routine complete water changes. Water temperature should be filled and maintained at your animal's optimum level- research!  Change the water as often as necessary - with a large canister filter - about once a week. Without a filter - about every two days.  There are several automatic siphoning devices on the market that will make this task much easier.  Use of an aquarium heater will usually be necessary since most apartments are too cool, especially in the winter for the turtle to thrive. If using a glass heater, place it in a protected position where the turtle can not touch or bite it - turtles have suffered burns, cuts, or electrocution when biting glass heaters.  Protect the turtle from cold drafts in the winter.  Breathing cold air while in warm water can lead to pneumonia.  Adding a cover to the tank can raise the air temperature.

Hide boxes for your box turtles enable them to feel secure. These may be made from shoe boxes, or other appropriately sized boxes. The bigger the animal the bigger the box required. If housing more than one animal together, the box should have two doors- and entrance and escape exit.

Potted plants will usually be overturned. If housing a tortoise or turtle that eats vegetation, they will eat the decorative plants. Check the level of toxicity of plants used in enclosures! Take no chances - many common household plants are extremely poisonous!  Aquatic turtles will eat or trash any plants placed in their tanks - even the plastic ones.

Basking spots are generally required by water turtles. These spots usually have a heat source (bulb in a reflector suspended over them - be sure your pet can not touch or climb near the bulb - a turtle will suffer severe burns if the bulb is within reach) and allow the animals an opportunity to dry out. This is necessary for the health of their shell. Basking spots may be made from driftwood, cork bark or very smooth beach stones. Basking spots must be secure and pose no threat to the animal while it's under water- either by their becoming wedged between the spot and the glass or pinned to the bottom by a tumbled pile of rocks.  Make sure that you check out our electrical safety tips!

Basking spots are also required for some, if not all, land turtles and tortoises. Chelonians are cold-blooded (ectothermal), this means that their body temperature is directly dependent on the air or water around them. The warmer they are, the more active they are. They become sluggish if too cool. If too cool, they stop eating and their metabolism drops- but their metabolism is still outpacing their food intake (as they aren't eating) and will slowly starve to death. Given the opportunity to regulate this themselves, they do the best job  Many keepers set up the enclosure to provide a gradient of temperature, i.e., areas where the temperature is warmer, areas where the temperature is cooler - but all within the pet's temperature comfort zone.  By moving into and out of the warmer areas the turtle or tortoise is able to regulate its body temperature.

Enclosures should be large enough to allow necessary freedom of movement and temperature regulation. You and I are able to live in studio apartments, but given the choice, wouldn't we prefer larger quarters? Keep that in mind when purchasing your animal's home. The more space the happier the critter!

Thermometers that stick on to the aquarium glass above and below the water line are very handy. If using a glass thermometer, place it where the turtle can not reach it.  The turtle will bite it and may suffer injury from the broken glass - remember - turtles are surprisingly agile climbers and have a propensity for mischief.  For a land tank thermometers should be placed at either end. The difference between the warm area and cooler spots may then be monitored and adjusted as necessary.  You should also test the temperature of the basking area to ensure that it does not exceed safe levels.
 

The cliché is old, but is accurate - water and electricity do not mix.  When placing electrical lights near the aquarium or enclosure make absolutely sure that the light can not accidentally drop into water.  Use a metal screen cover on the top of your tank.  Make sure that the lighting fixture is absolutely secure and can not fall, be bumped, or inadvertently pushed into the water.  Make sure that all electrical devices in or near the aquarium - heaters, lamps, filters are properly grounded. If you must use extension cords, do not overload the cord's approved rating.  Never touch an electrical device while your hand is in the water.  Before doing maintenance on your turtle tank, unplug all electrical devices in the tank and around the immediate area.  Purchase an UL approved Ground Fault Interrupter, GFI,  for the electrical outlet(s) near your tank.  A GFI is a device that immediately cuts off the electrical current when certain kinds of electric shorts are detected.  You can purchase a GFI device to replace your current outlet or you can purchase an inexpensive GFI device that plugs into your existing conventional outlet.  GFI devices are relatively cheap and may save your and your turtle's life in the event of an electrical accident.  GFI's are available at larger hardware and home building supply stores.

Refusal to eat may be caused be stress (bullying by cage mates, new surroundings), or improper temperatures- usually it is too cool, although, sometimes they do become too warm. Make sure you have the thermometers and consult a vet if external considerations seem fine and  your animal continues to not eat.  Not eating is usually a first sign of turtle illness or disease.  If the turtle's environment is good,  the temperature is ok, and after a few days the turtle still refuses to eat, then don't hesitate to consult with your vet.  Something is wrong with the animal and the sooner you seek professional help increases your animal's chances for survival.  Don't wait until your turtle is starved and dehydrated.

Puffy eyes may indicate a vitamin A deficiency. Cod liver oil or the contents of a vitamin A capsule on their food may help. Generally, a turtle that can't see won't eat.  If there is no improvement within a few days, take you pet to the vet. A vitamin injection may be in order or your pet may have a more serious infection or condition.

Constipation may be treated with a 30 minute soak per day in warm (not hot!) water. If there is still is no bowel movement, or the animal goes off feed, see your vet!

Shell rot is a bacterial infection which occurs on the shell as well as the skin of the animal. Make sure the area is dry, apply betadine and when that is dry, cover with Polysporin or a different jelly-based anti-bacterial ointment. Return the animal to it's tank. Be sure that the turtle's water and environment is clean.  Check again and repeat in two days. If there is no improvement within a week or if the infected area is large or growing, see your vet.  If left untreated, the rot will spread and your pet will die.  The longer you wait, the more difficult it is to sucessfully treat.

Floating at an angle, gasping for breath, opening and closing of the mouth (like a fish), runny nose and or wheezing usually indicate pneumonia. Raise the tank temperature to 85-90°F. It is usually caused by low temperatures coupled with poor diet.  Call your vet immediately.

Neck swellings or lumps are usually middle ear abscesses. Consult a vet. A surgical procedure to drain the area is generally required.

Worms in the stool should be treated just as in cats or dogs.  Collect a sample and head to the vet.  Keep the pet isolated from healthy animals.  When bringing a new turtle into your collection, it is sound procedure to keep the new turtle isolated from other turtles until the animal is checked by a vet for worms and other communicable diseases.

Cuts and bites should be washed with mild soap and water. Apply Merthiolate or Polysporin ointment. Do NOT use Mercurochrome as it is toxic to turtles! If bitten by a cage mate, they should be separated so it does not happen again. Turtle wounds heal slowly increasing the risk of infection.  Once a wound is infected, it is difficult for the turtle to naturally fight the infection or for the wound to heal. Monitor closely, do not hesitate to take the animal to a vet if the wound is serious, fails to heal, or appears infected.

Soft shell results from a lack of either vitamin D3, or calcium, or possibly both. Natural sunlight will help. A Vita-lite fluorescent light will simulate sunlight. D3 and calcium supplements added to the food are a good idea. The vet may also give it an injection.  This condition is life threatening and should be professionally treated immediately.

A Veterinarian is licensed in the State in which he (or she) conducts his practice.  Unfortunately, not all veterinarians are equal when it comes to extensive experience with reptiles and turtles.  Some may not have studied or treated a reptile since leaving veterinary school.  Therefore, it is important to locate a veterinarian who has experience in treating reptiles.  Word of mouth from fellow turtle enthusiasts or a reference list from your local herp society or turtle club are invaluable in locating a qualified veterninarian.  In lieu of a reference, when initially contacting a veterinarian, you should not hesitate to ask about his or her experience in treating reptiles.  Most veternarians are forthright people and will gladly indicate what part of their practice is devoted to reptilian medicine or what special experience they might have in treating reptiles.  Don't be afraid to ask.  After all, you will be paying for the veterinarian's professional services and you have a right to inquire as to the experience level of the person providing that service.  Moreover, you have the right to ask questions about your pet's diagnosis, course of treatment, and fees.  If you are uncomfortable with the vet's answers, recommendations or manner, you may wish to find another vet.

Don't be afraid to discuss fees.  Better to know upfront what the given procedure, x-ray, or medication will cost in order to avoid an unsettling surprise or potential area of disagreement.  Many vets will consider payment plans if you are hard pressed.  Many take credit cards.  Inquire first.

Do your research early - not when your pet is in dire need of medical treatment.  If you are referred to an experienced veterinarian, establish an early professional relationship with the vet before your pet is sick.  Take your pet for routine periodic medical examinations.  This will give you an opportunity to establish a rapport with your vet, give the vet an opportunity to learn about your pet, and will keep you pet in tip-top shape.  In the case of a later unfortunate emergency, the veterinarian will know who you are and will have a complete medical history of your pet.  Trust and confidence is a two-way street.  Always be prompt for appointments.  Pay the fees promptly and cheerfully.  Be honest and forthright about your pet's environment, behavior, and habits.
 

• Appointments, fees, and an expectation of honesty will be required.
• Please be honest.
• Know the temperature of the animal's environment.
• Be prepared with your pet's fecal sample.
• Provide complete answers to the questions.
• If you have noticed anything out of the ordinary- report it!
• If you don't understand the recommended course of treatment or terminology, ask for clarification.
• It's not uncommon to be asked to medicate your animal at home after your visit to the vet's office. This may include giving injections, administering oral mediciations or applying topical ointments.  If you don't understand a procedure or are confused - please ask questions.  If you are really uncomfortable about giving injections or meds, tell your vet.  She can make arrangements for her assistant to administer the meds.  Clarify all areas of concern before leaving the office.  If you are confused about medications, dosages or treatments, call the vet's office for further clarification.  Don't experiment on your pet.  When in doubt, ask.
• Listen Carefully - Take Notes - Ask Questions!   Vets don't mind.
•  If you are given medications or a prescription drug, please take proper precautions in order to protect children.  Don't leave ointments or medications in places where children can find and swallow them.

These guidelines are very general and are merely offered as a starting point for your future research.  To be a truly responsible pet owner you must do your homework and learn the requirements of your particular animal,  provide a healthy environment, and seek proper medical attention for your pet when necessary.  Please research your animal thoroughly and be a responsible pet owner.

We at the Chicago Turtle Club hope that you enjoy your new friend.  For more information on any of the above topics, a list of veterinarians in the Chicagoland area that treat turtles and tortoises, suppliers or other information, please contact the Chicago Herpetological Society at (773) 281-1800 or come to one of our Chicago Turtle Club meetings.