Hose fittings:
- 1/4" male pipe to 3/8" ID hose barb. Builder's Square Waxman
part number 07-811
- 1/2" hose barb to 3/8" hose barb (Builder's Square Waxman
part number 07-832) , or make your own using:
- 3/8" pipe double female union
- 3/8" male pipe to 1/2" hose barb
- 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" hose barb
- Washers - 3/16" (you need about 10). 10mm washers also work if
you can't find 3/16".
- Fuel Line Disconnect Tool - 5/16" and 3/8" KD Tools #3321. The
fuel lines use a quick connect fitting that requires a special tool
available at any normal auto parts store. The tool actually consists of
a set of quick release tools for newer A/C and fuel fittings. A 6 piece
set from JC Whitneys for about $7 (p/n 89XX0707U) which works great.
- Drill bit - 7/8" or larger, or a comparably sized hole saw (used to
drill into the covers for the fuel lines).
- Assorted files
- 1/4" to 5/8" fitting for the intake to fit the new power brake
booster hose which is smaller than stock. ~$2.
- 1/4" size brake booster valve to go onto the brake booster. ~$2.
- OR Arizona Speed and Marine offers made-to-fit covers for $165 that
are polished aluminum. This will save many of the modifications listed
below for a bit of extra cash.
If you are using the plastic Corvette valve covers, you will also need the following:
- Valve covers, old P/N 10108605 and 10108606, new P/N 12552321 and
12552322, $80 each (net)
- Cap Assembly, P/N 12554955, $3LI>
- Valve Stud, P/N 10108674 (you need eight), $???
- Bolts, P/N 10108675 (you need eight), $???
The valve cover gaskets come with the valve covers, and the
crankcase breather adapter grommet comes with the RH valve cover.
You need to trim crankcase breather hose to fit new grommet.
There are also some new injector covers available that are used on the Corvette
LT4 engines. You will still need all of the other parts from the normal
install, above, except for these different covers. The only difference
is that they have red lettering instead of the normal black letters:
- LT4 Injector covers: P/N 12552432 & 12552431, about $20 each
- LT4 Throttle Body Plate (called AIR COVER): P/N 17113211, about $10
For those of you with late '95s and '96s,
GM changed the design of the pipe/check valve/rubber hose setup over the
RH valve cover to a straight pipe design, connected to the check valve,
then to the rubber hose, which now makes a u-turn over the cover.
The previous design had a small u-turn pipe that connects to the check
valve and then a 90 degree rubber elbow hose. This design agreeably
looks better than having a rubber hose run across the valve covers.
Here are the part numbers for the older, better looking design:
- 10231681 - Pipe Assembly - retail $9.10
- 10217106 - Connector - retail $3.40
- 22040805 - Valve - around $15-$20
- A brass flanged connector that converts a
7/8" male connector to a 1/2" male connector, or female on the 7/8" side
and male on the 1/2" side.
Note that if you order your parts from Bob at
World Parts, you can just order
P/N N800. $39.95, to get the entire injector cover kit set. This includes
all of the GM parts required.
- Before you get started, decide if you will be replacing the valve covers
with the magnesium units from the 87-92 Vettes, the plastic ones from
the 93+ Vettes, or leaving them stock. The Vette covers will prevent
rusting and quiet down the noisy LT1 valvetrain. The magnesium covers
should be coated to prevent staining (e.g. Jet-Hot). If you are using
the stock stamped steel valvecovers, then you should use the RH
injector cover from the '92-'93 Corvette application (P/N 10224936)
instead of the RH cover listed above. This is because the stock
valvecovers have the crankcase vent tube on the top of the cover,
as did the Magnesium LT1 valvecovers used on the '91-'92 Corvette.
The RH injector cover for those years has a clearance notch for the
crankcase vent hose to pass through. You should always use the LH
injector cover from 94+ Vettes.
- Because the Corvette brake vacuum hose is smaller in diameter than
the stock hose (11/32" ID compared to 1/2" ID), you will need to
change the brake vacuum fitting in the intake manifold from
the existing 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" hose barb type. This allows
you to attach the smaller diameter Corvette formed brake vacuum
hose. The portion that screws into the intake manifold is 1/4" pipe
thread. You may want to use teflon sealer on the threads before
screwing the fitting in place. Remove the original fitting, take
the 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb fitting, apply some thread sealer,
and screw it into the manifold where the original fitting was
positioned.
- Attach the Corvette brake booster vacuum hose to this fitting and run
it back towards the firewall along the intake manifold valley, and then
around behind the LH valvecover. There you will splice that hose to your
existing brake vacuum hose with a 3/8" barb to 1/2" barb adapter
made up from the brass double female union and 3/8" male pipe to
1/2" and 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" barb fittings. Note that you can also
find the correct teflon piece at Builder's Square. This splice can
be covered with the 3/4" convoluted plastic tubing for a factory
look. Be sure to locate the splice so that you have plenty of slack
to put the injector cover on.
- Another way to do this is to replace the check valve in the brake
booster with one that fits the Corvette hose correctly. You can
The "HELP" part number for the check valve is 80190 and it
fits perfectly. This part will fit the smaller 'Vette hose without
modifications.
- Once the brake vaccum hose has been re-rounted, you will need to
disconnect the fuel lines at the regulator in order to re-route
the main engine harness behind the fuel lines. First,
and this is very important, you must relieve
fuel system pressure and use several rags around the fuel fittings
when disconnecting them. You should do this on a cold engine
and have a fire extinquisher (preferrably HALON type) nearby.
To relieve fuel system pressure, follow the service manual
guidelines, or disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector
at the rear of the vehicle, start and run the engine until it
dies, and then relieve the remaining pressure by depressing
the fuel rail schrader valve. Use a rag to catch the fuel that
will come out.
- Then proceed to disconnect the fuel line fittings with KD #3321,
and wire or tape up the fuel line ends at the firewall to prevent
any siphoning of fuel from the tank or dribbling out of the lines.
Use the rags to catch any fuel that might dribble out. With the
fuel lines now disconnected and secure, reposition the main engine
harness to route behind the fuel rail fittings. Then bend both
fittings to align with each other, so they project up at the
same angle. Use a small screwdriver inserted in the steel lines
to act as a handle for minor bending.
- Now get the LH cover, and position it in place the best you can.
The purpose is to get an idea of where to drill the holes in the
cover for the fuel fittings to pass through. The holes will be
much larger than the fittings, so you can easily remove the cover
in the future and slide it up on the fuel lines without having to
disconnect them. If you like, you can notch the cover later
by using a hacksaw to continue the holes towards the rear, but
it looks much better with just the holes and the fuel lines
passing through them.
- Now take the cover and drill two 7/8" holes where you estimate the fuel
lines will pass through. It is OK if you are off by a little, as
the steel lines can be bent slightly to center them in the holes
once you put the cover back on. Now set the cover over the
steel fuel lines, and check for fit, bending the lines as necessary
so they are centered. You can also use a hole saw and drill them
a little bit larger, which will make the assembly process easier.
- A nice touch is to use two rubber grommets to cover the drill
marks in the covers. They give the covers a factory-finished look,
and hide any slivers around the edges of the holes. Just slide them
on over the fuel lines and then work them onto holes in the cover.
- There is enough slack in the LH harness to make it work without
modifications. You need to take off all of the clips on the
harness and stuff it down into the injector area. You may want
to unclip the leads from the injectors and disconnect the fuel
lines and brake vacuum hose to make this easier. Route the
harness behind the engine, being careful of the EGR valve
back there. This will require some major tugging and pulling on
some engines, but it should go eventually.
- You may also have to grind on the fuel pressure regulator fitting to
get the cover to seat properly, and you will have to grind a notch
in the cover to clear the fuel pressure regulator towards the center
rear of the engine.
- When you are re-arranging the wiring harness to tuck down next to
the intake manifold, make sure it is positioned on the outside
of the throttle guard plate, between the plate and the valve
cover. You do not want any interference with the throttle cable.
Then position the brake vacuum hose setup, also tucking it down
next to the manifold.
- Now install the metal studs in the intake manifold. It may be
necessary to use some 3/16" washers under the two studs on the
LH side to raise them enough to get the cover to properly engage.
This is only necessary for the LH cover due to the thickness of
the wire and hose bundle underneath it. You will have to do some
rearranging and compressing of the wire and hose bundle, to get
everything to fit nicely with the cover on. In some cases you will
have to file down the metal fuel regulator bracket in
order to get the injector cover to seat down properly.
- After the LH injector cover is in place, re-attach the fuel fittings.
They are quick connect fittings and should just snap into place.
Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector at the back of the car
and be sure the schrader valve cap is installed, then turn the key on
(don't start it yet) which will pressurize the fuel system, and
check for leaks.
- The RH injector cover is much more easily installed than the LH side.
If you are using the '92-'93 style cover (which is required if you
are not changing to the Corvette plastic valvecovers), then you may
need to trim it in the area where the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure)
sensor is mounted at the RH side
of the throttle body. Also you will likely have to bend the transmission
fill tube to clear the cover at the rear. Bend the transmission dipstick
tube back towards the firewall, and to the left towards the wiper motor.
After tucking the wires and solenoid down into the intake manifold
valley, the RH injector cover should neatly snap into place.
- The canister purge solenoid is mounted to the bracket for the
triangular resonator on all '94s and '95s. Since this
bracket will be removed, you will have to relocate the solenoid.
You can get the Corvette bracket for this, but since it is hidden,
you could also take a large hose clamp, drill a hole through the band,
and screw it to intake manifold. You will see a threaded hole that is
perfect for mounting the clamp bracket directly in the center of the RH
side. Then simply put the solenoid in the clamp, and tighten it down.
Space is a little tight there, so you may want to go the hose clamp
route instead of the bracket.
- Alternatively, there is a separate bracket available (from the Z28).
It's called an emission bracket, part number 10229207 ($2.69).
Pick up the bolt also since it is
very small and metric, part no. 11514607. This bracket mounts to the
horizontal hole (about 6mm) in the center of the manifold. Trim off the
little extra piece of it that protrudes upward. This allows it to
clear the manifold cover. Again, on '96 models, this will not be
needed as it comes attached to the manifold (it is no longer
attached to the home plate mounting bracket).
- After the injector covers are installed, the plastic cable clips will go
into the two holes in the LH cover, and hold the accelerator and cruise
cables close to the cover for a neat appearance, and to prevent
them from abrading against the hood insulation.
- Now you can install the throttle linkage cover. You must remove
the splash shield that is currently there, it will be discarded,
along with the bolt that held it in. Remove the LH upper throttle
body screw and attach the short "L" bracket for the linkage cover
underneath it. Set the cover in place and use one of the small
screws you bought to attach it to the linkage bracket.
Back to the index...
Advantages
The CB will allow you to remain in contact with others and won't be an
eyesore when mounted properly in the Impala. Note that this procedure
also works for other radio equipment or scanners.
Disadvantages
You will have to drill two small holes in the ashtray brackets, or, for
some wider CB's, you can use tie wraps to attach the CB to the ashtray
mounting brackets. In either case, you give
up the use of the ashtray, which means no cupholders in 96's.
Parts Required:
- CB Radio, your choice. Around $100.
- CB Antenna, your choice. Around $50.
Tools Required
- Allen wrench
- Phillips and Flat Screwdrivers
- Power Drill
- 7mm Ratchet
- Black plastic wire ties
- wire cutters.
Optional Tools
- Plastic Dip vinyl coating
- Center punch & hammer
- Soldering iron & electrical solder
- Crimp-on blade and ring connectors
- Crimping tool
- Black wire (within size range of connectors)
- Dremel Tool & safety glasses
- Pliers
- SWR meter & 2-3 ft. length of RU-58 coax with female
connectors (available at any Radio Shack, and may be
included with the SWR meter).
Procedure (from
Randy Stone
and
Louis Pascucci
)
:
-
No holes for the antenna are required. Most radios come with
mounting hardware, so you shouldn't need to buy any screws. The speaker
is in the radio, so you don't need to worry about installing a separate
one, and the only wires to run are the antenna cable and power leads.
-
The antenna is, of course, personal choice, but we really like the
K40. Not only can you adjust the angle of the whip,
but you can remove the whip and cap the base with an
optional weather cap ($1.25) whenever you are worried about theft or
hitting a low ceiling. The angling feature of the K40 comes in handy,
as you don't have to be as careful about the whip tapping the roof if you
open the trunk too fast. In addition to its great styling, it also has
the best performance on the market. The Wilson is just as good, but
you can't angle it or remove the whip and toss it in the trunk. The
K40 is around $50, and you can get an
optional loaded whip for about $10 more. This reduces the height of
the antenna by about a foot, from 44 inches to 30 inches, in case
you're worried about low ceilings, but trades off a small amount of
performance.
-
You'll probably want to get
the trunk lip mount. It is better for the paint than the
magnetic mount, and looks better too. Best place to mount it is
in the center of the trunk behind the third brake light. I've seen
three different trunk lip mount antennas, and they all come with allen
screws and an allen wrench.
-
Optional: The antenna itself sits on a rubber mount, so there's
no possibility of scratches as long as you wax prior to install, but
there is a little bare metal where the clamp wraps around the lip of the
trunk. You can coat this part of the trunk mount with plastic dip to
prevent the possibility of scratches, but leave the clamping screws bare
as you need some metal to metal contact for the antenna to work
properly.
-
Run the cable over to one side of the trunk, anchoring the cable
to the driver's side trunk hinge with black plastic wire ties,
and through the side of the back seat. Push
the seat back forward a little and thread the antenna cable over to
the door sill. Make sure you go behind the seat belt. You should be able to
push the cable under the rear plastic door sill without having to loosen
any screws. Removing the rear seat bottom may help here: just push it
back and lift the front. You can push the cable under the plastic piece
that covers the driver's seat belt, but if you are afraid it might kink the
antenna cable, thread it over the seat belt cover and then back
under the driver's door sill. Use a phillip's screw driver to
loosen the driver's door sill enough to slip the cable under it. Now
thread the cable under the kick panel by the parking brake. You shouldn't
have to loosen anything to do this, but it will be kind of tight. Now run
the cable over to the center console and use a couple of wire ties to
secure it under the dash.
-
Alternately, and this requires a bit more work, you can run
the cable under the carpet right down the center "hump". You take out
the back seat bottom, and loosen the center console a little.
You need to loosen a bolt or two at the rear of the
console: to get to these just lift out the compartment tray under the
armrest. There is a hole in the carpet under the console that you can
run the cable up through. While everything is loose, pull the end
connector out, under one side or the other near the rear of the console
and pull it up toward the dash (outside of the console). Here is
another benefit of the K40: You can unscrew the big radio connector
end off of the small connector which is attached to the cable. Getting
this small connector under the console walls was tight but achievable.
Doing this with a brand that you can not get the end off will be a
chore. Once the cable is pulled up to the dash, you can tuck the coax
under the console walls out of view. Now you should only be able to
see a short piece of coax leading from the front of your console
waiting to be connected to your radio.
-
As for the radio, there are too many choices here to make a real
recommendation, but I like the Cherokee CM5 (about $120) because it has
a dual scan feature, allows you to listen to Ch. 19 but switches
instantly over to the other 'watch' channel whenever it recieves a
transmission on that channel. Good for when you want to listen to 19
but 19 is too busy to talk to the other members of your caravan.
Other basic rigs include the Uniden Pro 510XL (about $50), Midland,
and Cobra. You can go from there depending on what you want. The
antenna is much more important than the radio for peak transmission
distance.
-
If you are going to get power from the main
fuse box, you may want to tin the ends of the radio's power leads with
solder to make it easier to insert them into the fuse terminals.
-
Begin the radio install by sliding out the ashtray and removing it by
unscrewing the four bolts that hold it and its bracket in. Unplug the
gray wires that go to the ash tray light. The wires run about six
inches from the ashtray and then are connected to the car's wiring by a
two prong connector, so you can unplug it there. Now remove the ashtray
from its bracket by sliding a flat screwdriver into the black plastic
rails the ashtray slides on and depressing the detents. (This is kind of
hard to describe but very easy to do once you see it.)
-
Once you have the ashtray separated from the bracket, slide the
bracket back into place. Put the radio's bracket (mounting hardware
should come with the radio) on the radio and then position the radio how
you want it. Note where the radio bracket touches the ashtray bracket.
This can be tricky because the ashtray bracket has a depression in the
top side on the left, and you have to make sure the screws that came
with the radio are either long enough to reach the extra distance or
else mount the radio slightly to the left. The ashtray is asymmetrical
anyway, so this isn't noticeable.
-
Once you have the radio bracket position marked on the ashtray bracket,
take the ashtray bracket back out and drill the mounting holes for the
radio bracket.
-
Optional: Use the center punch and a hammer to make a small depression
where you want to drill each hole, this will prevent the drill from
walking all over the bracket.
-
I used a 1/8" drill bit, but your radio may require a different size
hole. Drill them a little off-center because of the
aforementioned shape of the bracket. You may have to put one of the radio
bracket's adjusting knobs in place before you screwed the radio bracket
down if it is a tight fit between the radio bracket and the side
of the ashtray bracket.
-
A little antenna install info: A CB antenna is composed of two main
parts: the base and the whip. The base, besides containing a coil and
other things to help the antenna function, is what mounts to the car.
The whip is nothing more than a long piece of wire with one rounded end
to dissipate static. Some antennas mount a coil in the center of the
whip, but that's not important here.
-
Optional: Make a case ground for the radio. The ignition gives off a
slight amount of radio noise, and for the more anal of you out there
(you know who you are!), this can be reduced with a case ground. Cut a
piece of wire about 6-8 inches long and put a small ring connector on
one end with the crimping tool, and a blade or bullet connector on the
other end. Optionally, cut the plastic off the connectors and solder the
connector, then cover it with shrink wrap tubing)
Now cut another piece of wire for the other half of the case
ground, adjusting the length depending on where you decide to anchor it.
Make the other half with the blade connector's mate and another small
ring. Attach the second half via the ring connector to any screw under
the dash that's grounded, the first half to any screw on the radio that
will ground the case. Your radio may come with screws expressly for this
purpose. Run the wire through the back of the bracket with the other
wires, and connect when you put the radio in the dash.
-
Now mount the radio in the bracket. Connect the antenna cable, making
sure it's tight. Run the radio's power leads through the hole in the
back of the ashtray bracket and then over to the fuse box by the driver.
Ground the negative lead from the radio. Insert the positive lead in
the #9 fuse, which is the power fuse for the stereo. This will allow
the radio to be on when the key is in the 'run' and 'acc' modes, but
not when the key is off. Insert the radio and bracket into the dash and
tighten things up. Use wire ties to clean up any loose wires.
-
Mike install: You can just leave the mike loose and set it in
the pocket of the center console, or mount the mike clip
to the driver's side of the center console. Screwe it into the
carpeted part of the center console, which has the added benefit that if
you ever need to remove it the holes won't show. This location is about
an inch in front of your seat, and you can always find it without looking.
If anyone smaller than yourself drives the car, make sure the clip is
mounted far enough forward so that the driver's seat won't hit it when
they move the seat forward.
-
Linear Amplifiers: While you can install a linear amp to boost
the signal, Tom at American Mobile Electronics, who has no moral
objections to an illegal amp (linear amps are apparently as common as
export pipes), feels that the high transmission power can interfere with
the PCM. This means that you're probably better off without the amp.
-
Antenna Efficiency: You are limited by the FCC to 4 watts maximum
transmission power. Your antenna reflects a certain amount of this
output power back into the radio, where it is lost as heat. You can
tune your antenna so that the reflected power is at a minimum, and the
maximum output is going out over the air. Also, if an antenna reflects
too much of the radio's output, it can damage the radio over time.
-
This is where the SWR, or Standing Wave Ratio, meter comes in. By
measuring the SWR of your antenna, you can tune it by adjusting the
length so that the SWR is as low as possible, preferably below 1.5. With
cheapo antennas, you would tune the radio for best performance on
channel 19, which is where you will spend the majority of the time.
(Channel 19 is the unofficial national truckers' channel, and where you
will find traffic, weather, and smokey reports, as well as connecting
with other people before going to another channel. A computer analogy
would be that 19 is the main chat room, and you would go to another
channel when you wanted to have a private conversation or just eliminate
most of the chatter, like going to a private chat room.) A cheap
antenna will rise above 2.0 towards Channel 1 and Channel 40, cutting
down on useful range. A modern antenna will be able to stay below 1.5
on all channels, giving you greater transmission range on these very
quiet channels. A tuned K40 has an SWR of 1.35 on Ch. 1, 1.05 on Ch.
19, and 1.5 on Ch. 40. (1.00 is perfect, and unobtainable in the real
world.) An SWR of 3.0 or greater will damage the radio over time.
-
Tuning your Rig: To tune your antenna, connect the SWR meter via the
short piece of coax (may be supplied with the meter) to the antenna jack
on the radio, and the antenna cable to the other side of the meter
(it's labeled). Flip the switch on the meter to 'Calibrate', Close
your doors, turn on the radio and tune it to Ch. 19, and press the mike
button. Turn the knob on the SWR meter until the needle is centered in
the calibration mark. Release the mike button, flip the switch on the
meter to 'test', and push the mike button again. Follow your antenna's
instructions to adjust its length, and adjust it up or down. Now go
through the same procedure again, calibrating each time you change the
length of the antenna, until you find the sweet spot. It's best to tune
on Channel 19, because a) it's near the center of the citizens' band,
and b) 19 has the most chatter on it so that is where you will need
transmission efficiency the most. K40 and Wilson suggest a more
sophistcated tuning strategy to achieve peak efficiency over the entire
bandwidth, but I've found through personal experience that I need Ch. 19
to be at peak efficiency. If you get a K40, you can save yourself some
time by cutting 2" off the bottom of the whip to begin with. Do not
cut the rounded end! This is the top of the whip!
-
If you buy a K40 but do not wish to spend the extra $20 on an SWR
meter, you can get pretty close to these specs by cutting 2" off the bottom
of your whip and then sliding it all the way into your base. Tom at AME
says this is consistent for all Caprices, and since he installs the CBs
for the Manassas police 9C1's, he has a lot of experience. Make sure
you cut the flat end and insert it in the antenna base, as the rounded
end goes on top to help eliminate static.
-
The dremel tool comes in real handy here, but heavy wire cutters will
work. It helps to eliminate static if you grind or file any sharp
edges.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Lights up the door panel controls (power windows, seats, etc.) at night. Fills
in the empty triangle left for the light.
Disadvantages
You must remove your door panel and do some wiring to get it to work.
Parts Required:
- GM # 10031003 or #10031004 bulb, which has a tiny blue silicon cap. You can
keep it or remove it. $???
- Some wire and appropriate soldering tools.
- Door panel removal tool. About $35.
- Some plastic retainer clips. GM # 10161510 (15 cents each). You almost
surely break some taking the door off. There are 6 per door.
Procedure (from
Scott Mueller
for the light and
Glen Novitsky
for the door removal
):
- Remove the door panel. First, there are 4 screws. One in the piece where the door handle, lock
and power lock controls are. Two are in the door arm rest. One is under
the armrest toward the back of the door. All are easy to get too. The one
under the armrest is different as it has one of those "drill bit" ends on
it. Start with unscrewing all of them first.
- After you take off the screws for the armrest, it will act as if it
wants to come off. Don't take it off: there is still a retaining clip
that holds it in place. Just let it flap around.
- Next remove the piece around the lock/door handle. This is held in by two
metal tension mounted clips. One on the front one on the back. Slide it
forward to release the rear clip, pull the rear out and then slide it back
to remove it. The lock control must be either in the LOCKED position or at
least in the middle somewhere as it extends behind the cloth when it is in
the unlocked position, making it impossible to remove the piece. The
drivers side must hang there as you (if you have MANUAL mirrors) cannot
disconnect from the mirror. I don't know about power, probably you can.
- Next, there are 5 plastic clips that hold the door on. They are located on
the sides and bottom (the top of the panel will come later). You will probably
break at least 3, so a trip to your local parts shop is in store. You
can by them at any auto parts stores, usually in packs of three for $1.50.
There are two kinds that look alike, so take one to the store and match it
up so you have the right ones or get them from the dealer.
- Now, there are only two things holding the
panel in place, the top of the door and the power window/seat (if
applicable) wires. Next, to release the door from the top around the
window area, you must FORCEFULLY pull up on the panel to release it from
the window channel. There are no plastic clips here, just metal ones and
you cant break them. Just be sure to pull it up as straight as possible.
I found that starting at the front of the door helps release it easier.
- Now, the last thing. The power window/seat bezel is held in by one
metal clip in the front and it is simply held in the back by sliding it
under the plastic. To remove it, place your arm up the inside of the door
panel and PUSH the metal clip up. That will release the whole control
piece (that holds all the switches), now slide it foward to remove
it. Turn it upsidedown and remove the plugs. The passenger side has two
plugs, the drivers side has 5. It does take some creative thinking on how
to remove a couple of them, just take your time.
- The light comes from a very small triangular hole in the door release
handle bezel in the driver's side.
The hole is exceedingly small, and is not easy to spot. Look on the
upper left corner of the black plastic recessed area where the chrome door
opening handle is. You will notice a very small triangular shaped hole right
in the inside corner area. You could also install one in
the passenger's side, but you will need to make the hole yourself.
- Fabricate a small triangular lens out of a piece of translucent
plastic from the top of a can of clear spray paint, and glue it to the
inside of the bezel.
- There is no socket for these bulbs, so solder a tail of wire
directly to each of the bulb leads. These
tiny bulbs have a very long life, and will likely never burn out at all,
thus making the search for a socket seem pointless. A
socket would greatly complicate the bulb mounting.
- Mount the bulb using some small pieces of duct tape to hold the tiny bulb in
place over the lens.
- To wire the bulb up, run a wire from the dimmer module under the dash,
through the door conduit, and over to the tiny bulb. Ground is provided by
tapping into the power mirror control ground wire, which is mounted in the
same bezel.
- Reinstallation is the reverse. One hint on reinstalling, make SURE that the
two threaded clips
that go on the metal piece in the door where the two arm rest screws are
lined up before pusing in the plastic clips around the door. If you don't
you will have to pry them off again to realign the clips so the screws will
be held in.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allows you to pull back on the multi-function turn signal stalk and
flash your lights regardless of the headlight state for signalling
traffic.
Disadvantages
Difficult (4-6 hour) installation.
Parts Required:
- P/N 26035237: Switch, Dimmer. This is a dimmer switch for a
'94+ Cadillac Fleetwood. $29.75 retail / $19.98 from
NAISSO through World Parts.
- Either a GM connector (P/N 12102757) ($21.99 retail / $13.29
through NAISSO) or 2" of 12 gauge wire and a spade connector.
- A package of quick-splice connectors ($3.00 at any auto parts store).
Tools Required:
- 7mm nut driver (for removing the dash panel)
- 10mm socket and socket wrench
- 5/8" deep socket
- 5/16" open-end wrench
- 3/8" open-end wrench
- A pair of pliers
-
Buy the flash to pass switch. This will flash the high beams when
you pull back on the control stick. Any GM dealer should carry
the part.
-
Disconnect the air bags, just in case. If one inflates while your head is under
the dash, it will give you a terrible headache! Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK"
and remove the key. Find the two air bag connectors and disconnect them. They are
located just above the brake pedal. They are bright yellow and marked with black
and yellow warning tags. GM calls the air bag a SIR, not an air bag. Turn the
ignition switch to "RUN" and verify that the "AIR BAG" warning lamp flashes seven
times and then turns "OFF." Turn the ignition off.
-
Remove the gray lower dash panel above the brake pedal. It is held in place with two 7mm screws.
When you have everything apart, you will find some 7mm screws are different lengths than others. It
would be good to mark which screws go where. I didn't do that. I still managed to get everything
re-attached so it is not a critical error if you just dump them all unmarked in the cup holders.
-
Remove the black steel plate that you can now see above the brake pedal. It is held in place with
four silver 10mm bolts.
-
Remove the large black bracket, which held the steel plate. It is held in place with four black 10mm
bolts.
-
Remove the black bezel around the dash gages (Figure 3 Section 8C in the Service
Manual). It is held in place with two 7mm screws at the top. Remove the two
screws. Set the parking brake. Shift the transmission into low to get the
gear-shift lever out of your way. Pull the bezel back at the top and it should pop
out. It is held at the bottom by three blind spring clips. Shift the transmission
back into park after removing the bezel completely.
-
Remove the lower dash trim (Figure 5 Section 8C in the Service Manual). Start on
the driver's side by removing the access cover to the fuse block. The access cover
pops out with no screws (it's on the end of the dash). Remove the 7mm screw (all
dash screws are 7mm) under the cover. Remove the four screws along the extreme
bottom edge of the dash. Two are located just above the console and are harder to
remove than the others. One is located on the left side of the opening where the
black bezel was. One is located on the right side of the ash tray opening. The
dash is now only held on with blind clips. You can pop some through from the back
by raising the lower part of the clip with a screwdriver. After wiggling the dash
it will come out, hopefully in one piece.
-
You must separate the connector for the ash tray light! It is easy to do when the dash is loose.
Just don't forget to do it!
-
Remove the shift indicator cable, which is attached to the bottom of the shift lever bezel on the
steering column. It pulls off straight back.
-
Remove the two nuts holding the steering column to the upper dash. This requires a 5/8" deep socket
to clear the end of the bolts. The column should lower until the wheel is resting on the driver's
seat.
-
Disconnect the old high beam/low beam switch, which is on the left side of the steering column. To
find it, pull the control stick back a few times and you will see the white part of the switch move.
You may want to disconnect a few other wires to make access easier.
-
Remove the front bolt on the high beam/low beam switch. It is on the left of the steering column
almost on the top. Try a 5/16" open-end wrench as space is tight.
-
Remove the nut holding the rear of the high beam/low beam switch. It takes a 3/8"
open-end wrench. On a '94-'95 Impala, there is a bracket on top of the switch! On
the '96 Impala, there is not.
On the '96 the rear ear of the stock switch has
its own bolt holding it to the steering column. On the '94-'95 Impalas
the stock switch shares a bolt with a solenoid bracket. The Caddy switch
still has to share that bolt.
-
On a '94-'95 Impala, remove the nut holding the bracket using a 5/16" open-end
wrench. The bracket holds the solenoid that forces you to push the brake to shift
out of park. Loosen the nut that holds the bracket just enough to get the bracket
off the bolt. Then you can remove the old high beam/low beam switch.
On the '96 Impala, remove the nut holding the bracket using a 5/16" Open-end
wrench. The new switch is going to mount just like the '94-'95 Impala switch, so
you will still have to loosen the nut holding the solenoid bracket. The new FTP
switch uses that bolt for mounting.
-
Make sure the FTP switch clicks. It comes with a shipping retainer that keeps it from moving.
Remove the retaining clip.
-
Put the FTP bracket on the screw and put the solenoid bracket back on top of it. Tighten the screw
holding the bracket to the steering column (5/16" open-end wrench). Put the nut back on the rear FTP
mounting bolt (3/8" open-end wrench). Don't tighten it as you must adjust the position of the switch
on the steering column first.
-
Slide the rear slot of the FTP bracket under the solenoid bracket and onto the bolt
that holds the solenoid, and put the solenoid bracket back on top of the FTP
bracket. Tighten the screw holding the two brackets to the steering column (5/16"
open-end wrench). Put the nut back on the rear FTP mounting bolt (3/8" open-end
wrench). Don't tighten the nut as you must adjust the position of the FTP switch
on the steering column first.
-
Put the rod from the control stick into the end of the FTP switch. Replace the
bolt in the front mounting hole of the FTP (5/16" open-end wrench). Tighten
slightly. Adjust the position of the FTP switch until it clicks when you pull the
control stick back (the headlights won't work because you have the plug
disconnected from the switch, but you can hear the click). Tighten the front bolt
and rear nut.
-
Reattach the steering column to the upper dash with the two 5/8" nuts, using your
deep socket.
-
Reattach the shift indicator cable and adjust the position of the clip until it
reads correctly for P, R, N, etc.
-
This is a really good time to get rid of any squeeks you have in the lower dash.
Most of them will be from the ash tray assembly (metal on plastic). A little
silicone spray and they are gone. You can also spray a rag with silicone and
lubricate the padding that the lower dash rests against.
-
Reconnect the ash tray light connector.
-
Put the lower dash back on the car. The metal ash tray assembly will keep the dash
from fitting correctly unless you reach up under the dash and help the ash tray
into place. Put back all the 7mm screws you removed (one by the ash tray, one by
the instruments, one by the fuse block, and four along the bottom of the dash).
-
Reconnect the wires you disconnected earlier EXCEPT THE AIR BAG CONNECTORS!
-
Replace the black bezel around the gages. The parking brake shoudl still be set.
Shift the transmission into low. Pop the bottom of bezel into the dash. Attach
the top of the bezel with two 7mm screws. Shift the transmission back into park.
-
You now need to swap the high and low beam wires in the connector shell that goes
on the FTP switch. If you don't, you will flash the low beams. Look at the
connector shell from the switch's viewpoint. There is a hole at the top (where a
new wire will go) two wires side-by-side, and one wire at the bottom. You will
swap the two wires that are side-by-side. The connectors on the end of the wires
are held in the connector shell by a small tab on the connector that rests against
a ridge inside the connector shell. You have to raise that tab (which you can't
see) enough to clear the plastic ridge (which you can't see either).
-
Look at the connector shell. The four openings in the shell should look like
little camper shells (small part on the bottom and large part on the top). Take a
paper clip and bend the small loop tighter so that it can slip inside the lower
part of the opening (under the connector). Press up against the connector and
slide the paper clip back and forth while pushing up to bend the retaining tab up
enough to clear the ridge inside the connector. Remove both the high and low beam
wires and reverse them. Bend the tabs on the connectors out so they will catch the
ridge again and stay in the connector shell.
-
The FTP switch has one more electrical pin than the old stock switch. The stock
connector doesn't have a wire there (yet). You need to get 12 volts to the new pin
to make the lights flash. You can either use a 12" piece of 12 guage wire and put
a spade connector on one end, or you can do the following.
-
Remove a connector and wire from the 12102757 connector listed at the top under
"parts needed." This has the correct connector to fit inside the FTP connctor
shell. Insert the connector into the shell.
-
Locate the biggest connector you can see above the break pedal. The connector has
7 rows and 8 or 9 slots per row, depending on the row. The wire you will connect
to is the 12 gauge red one that comes from the second row from the top and just to
the left of the bolt holding the connector to its mate. Use a quick-splice
connector to connect the wire that will go to the new pin to this red wire.
-
Put the connector on the switch. If you are using the wire-and-spade version, you
will have to put the spade lug on the pin also.
-
Replace the large black bracket around the steering column, using the four black
10mm bolts you removed earlier.
-
Replace the large metal plate on the bracket, using the four silver 10mm bolts that
you removed from there.
-
Replace the gray dash piece and attach using the last two 7mm screws.
-
Reconnect the two air bag circuits.
-
The high beams should flash without the ignition on when you pull back on the
high/low switch stalk.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allows you to monitor your fuel pressure from inside the cockpit, which
is handy if you are running a blower or NOS. Allows you to monitor changes
in fuel pressure if you are using an adjustable regulator.
Disadvantages
Just the effort to plumb it, and the lack of a place to put it if you have
added other gauges.
Parts Required:
- CYB-8114 ($65.00) Cyberdyne gauge & sending unit
- CYB-8971 ($14.00) Cyberdyne 4AN to 1/8 inch coupling
- Start by locating the 4AN fitting on the fuel rail. On
my 95 SS, it was located on the rear of the rail, on the
passenger side of the intake manifold.
- Remove the cap to the fitting. It looks very much like
the cap to a bicycle/car tire air valve.
- Surround the fitting with old rags and release any fuel
pressure from the rail, using a small screwdriver, a
punch or a toothpick. You may want to have a fire extinguisher
handy at this point. Also see the
Corvette engine dress procedure for an alternate
method of releasing fuel rail pressure.
- Using a valve core remover, remove the plunger from the
center of the 4AN fitting. Some bicycle air gauges have
a core remover in the stem. You should be able to find
one at a bike shop or a department store.
- Screw the Cyberdyne sending unit, into the 4AN to 1/8
adapter. Screw it very tight, to avoid any leaks. If
you want to seal the threads, use a very small amount
of liquid Teflon. Do not use tape, as it could break
up and result in a clogged injector.
- Screw the gauge/adapter assembly into the 4AN fitting
on the fuel rail.
- Have a friend turn the key to the run position, while
you are closely watching the connections. If you are
sure there aren't any leaks, you are ready to run the
wires to the interior of the car.
- Behind the drivers side wheel well, towards the bottom
is a rubber plug. I was able to press a sharpened
coat hanger through this plug, with my wire on the end.
Not very precise, but appears to have sealed. I did
not remove the plug and pass the wire through, because
I was not sure that I would be able to reach down into
the space far enough and place it back into it's hole.
See the tachometer installation
for more information on the location of this plug.
- Once the wire is passed into the engine compartment,
you need only hook up the wires on the gauge to the
wire from the sender, to +12, to -12 and if you choose,
to a switched supply. This permits the gauge to dim at
night, when you turn your lights on.
- I chose to install a switch and turn on the gauges
only when I needed them. This way they will not be a
source of distraction at night. I got my +12 from
the cigarette lighter and installed a switch on the
flat space on the passenger side, behind the ash tray.
When the ashtray is closed (always), the switch can't
be seen.
- See the tachometer installation
procedure for information on how and where to mount these
gauges in the Impala interior.
Back to the index...
Advantages
The stock oil pressure gauge is merely an idiot light with a dial: it
is either "none" or "some". This modification will allow you to accurately
monitor the oil pressure to take corrective action before a serious
problem occurs.
Disadvantages
Making this modification will cause the needle to move outside of the
"normal" range that is defined for the stock switch. This can be minimized
with the addition of another bias resistor, though.
Parts Required
- Police / Taxi Oil Pressure Sending Unit. P/N 10201491, about $20.
- "Long" GM oil pressure switch removal tool (about $20 at NAPA) or a
Craftsman 1 1/16" deep well six point socket in 1/2" drive
(about $10 at Sears).
- Optional: 120 ohm, 2 watt resistor, about $1.
- Black tape, miscellaneous electrical connectors, and wires.
- It helps to avoid oil spillage if you park with
the rear of the car higher than the front and the engine cool.
- Unscrew the stock oil pressure switch using either the socket or
the tool. The oil pressure switch is on the top of engine, toward
the back on the drivers side. It is mounted on a small elbow. The
connector attaches from the top.
- Install the new sender and reconnect the wire. It should just plug
back in.
- You must now either bypass or modify the resistor for the switch using
one of the procedures below.
Resistor Bypass Procedure:
- The resistor is in the tan colored
sending unit wire between pin A5 of the C1 connector at the gauge cluster
and pin A in the C205 connector in the RH kickpanel. Locate it.
- If you have the Helms manuals, start by looking at the "Instrument
Cluster Electrical Diagnosis" section
and study the schematic diagram on page 8A-82-2. This is used to identify
the oil pressure sender circuit you are looking for, which is labelled
circuit 31 on the schematic. You can trace this circuit to the appropriate
connectors and pins right on that schematic.
- Page 8A-82-3 then has a picture
of the C1 instrument cluster connector, and a chart that identifies all of
the wires in that connector.
- Then turn to page 8A-82-5, where it lists all
of the involved connectors, specifically the C205 harness connector. Here it
indicates that the connector is pictured on page 201-19, figure 30. Actually
the book is slightly off here, and you will actually find the picture of the
connector on page 201-18 figure 28, and 201-20 figure 30.
- The chart on page
8A-82-5 also indicates that the connector face itself can be viewed on page
202-4, which precisely identifies the pin numbers and locations in the
connector.
- Using this information, simply remove the appropriate wire from both
connector ends, and run your own (sans resistor).
- Cut the wire
at each end and splice a jumper wire between them, or make up
a new wire with the appropriate
terminal pins on each end and insert them into the stock connector just as
if the factory had done it.
Resistor Modification Procedure:
- Remove the glovebox (3 screws underneath the door) and the
dash panel around it (several snap-in connectors: pull hard!).
- The wiring harness runs
along the top edge of the glovebox opening behind the hard black plastic dash
support--it's held to the support with three small gray snap-in connectors.
You can see and remove these connectors, which frees the harness. There
are two in plain sight, and the third is barely covered by the panel
just to the left of the glovebox.
- Reach up and behind
the dash support about where the glovebox latch is and pull the harness out to
where you can deal with it.
- Remove the electrical tape wrap along the top of
the glovebox portion of the harness between the middle two gray connectors.
Remember where the gray connectors go (I left a little tape holding them) so
the harness will go back in without any kinks or twists.
- The resistor is taped
separately in what appears to be black duct tape (sticky stuff!). When you get
down to the resistor and wires, you'll see the resistor and two tan wires
crimped together and the other end of the resistor crimped to a black/white
stripe wire.
- Cut the resistor off at each end, leaving the two tan wires crimped
together and the black wire disconnected from everyting. You can remove
the resistor from the entire circuit.
- With the resistor bypassed in this configuration, the gauge will read
at around the 3/4 mark (where it normally read before) when the engine
is cold, at about the 1/2 way mark (just before the normal range) when
the engine is warm and cruising, and at about the 1/4 mark (well below
the "normal" range) when idling with a warm engine. If this is OK, then
you can skip the next step, which will bias the needle up into the
normal range at all times.
- Here is the procedure for adding a new bias resistor to move the
reading up (from Steve Das):
- Tap into the tan wire (the one with the crimp) with a new
wire. The tan wire is the one from the gauge to the sender.
- Obtain a 120 ohm, 2 watt resistor from someplace like Radio Shack
or another electronics supply store. The value IS rather important.
If you go higher than 120 ohms, the gauge will read lower and of course,
going lower than 120 ohms will make the gauge read higher. Yours might
be slightly different so you might want to try it out before
buttoning things up.
- Connect one end of the resistor to the
new wire tapped into the tan wire.
- The other end of the resistor goes to a
source of 12 volts that is only on when the key is in the run
and start position. Make sure of this because if you use a source that
is on all the time, it will run your battery down and you will look
for the "short" forever! In my case, I used the pink wire going to
the Twilight Sentinel controller behind the right front kick panel.
The additional resistor increases the dissipation through the sender
by about 10% so I don't think that should be a problem.
- Now, the gauge reads just slightly higher than it did with the
original sender while going down the highway at 55. The idle
"pressure" is just slightly below half way up the gauge and it goes
all the way to ZERO with no oil pressure. Be advised that the
resistor will get warm so make sure it is not in a place that this
could cause a problem. I put two layers of heat
shrink tubing on mine and taped it to one of the bundles under the
kick panel. The only time the resistor even gets warm is with the
engine off and the key on. In this condition, the resistor is
connected between 12 volts and the sender which is essentially at
ground potential. Thus, the resistor is handling 1.2 watts: 100
milliamperes at 12 volts. As the resistance of the sender increases,
the dissipation of the resistor goes down. At "normal" pressure,
it is well under 1 watt. With the engine cold, the pressure goes
up near the top of the "normal" range. I think you will find
this totally satisfactory.
- Tape the exposed tan crimp,
tape the (now disconnected) black wire,
and then re-tape that section of the harness.
- (Clarification for above steps) It is easy to get hold of the
wrong harness behind the dash pad, above the glovebox. To clarify, the
harness needed is well-hidden up above and behind the glovebox door latch.
Make sure you're working with the harness that is held in place by the
small gray plastic nibs that are visible when the trim surrounding the
glovebox is removed. There is also a plastic guide fastened above the
right-hand-most A/C outlet that supports the harness as it makes the turn
at the corner of the dash to go down to the RH kickpanel area. Your best
way to get to it is to pull the gray plastic dash off that surrounds the
glove box. You will notice the little plastic harness connector tabs/nipples
coming through by the metal glove box latch. Squeeze the tabs, push them
through the other side, reach your fingers up behind the latch (a real tight
fit) and pull the harness out to where you can work on it. It winds
around and down and is fastened in place above the headlamp control
module in the RH kickpanel area. The schematic for the SEO vs. Base
wiring is on page 8A-82-2 of Book 2 of the Service Manual (Electrical
Diagnosis). Also in the same book the following diagrams are helpful:
- 8A-201-18 for the location of connector C205 and the RH kickpanel
- 8A-14-6 for a broader schematic of the S200 and G202 connections (as
you can see, snipping the black/white wire isn't as easy as it seems since
there are a myriad of those coming together at S200). The picture isn't
very good of exactly where the harness goes, but 8A-201-20 has a
picture of the I/P harness. If you look closely, there are lines showing
that the nibs taped into the harness go through the front of the instrument
panel, but it doesn't show them routed above the glovebox.
- The other
harness (the wrong one) is shown on the next page, 8A-201-21, Fig. 33,
running up and along the very top of the dash near the windshield.
- Put the harness and glovebox back into place
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allows the installation of an oil pressure sender unit
without having to either remove the stock sending unit or to fabricate
as adapter to retain the stock unit.
Disadvantages
Requires that a non-stock gauge be mounted somewhere on
the dash.
Parts Required
-
1 ea. 3/8" diameter NPT 45 degree elbow
-
1 ea. 3/8" to ?? NPT adapter as required to fit your sender unit
-
18" of heat resistant sleeve (i.e. the old asbestos tubing)
-
48" of 1/2" diameter split loom
-
5/16" short handle Allen (hex) wrench
-
Teflon pipe tape
-
The alternate sending unit mounting location is located on the oil
cooler adapter ring, sandwiched between the engine block and the oil
filter. On the side of the adapter ring, facing the the driver's side
catalytic converter, is 3/8" screwed in plug with a 5/16" square socket.
-
File two corners of the 5/16" Allen wrench down to fit the 5/16" square
socket on the plug. Don't use a long wrench as space in the area you'll
be working in is limited.
-
After jacking the car up and installing jack stands, slide
under the car so you can see the oil filter. Snake your hand around to
fit the modified Allen wrench into the socket. You only need loosen the
plug slightly before you can turn it by finger. Place a small container
under the filter as a small amount of oil will dribble out. If there is
not enough room to work, you might consider dropping the driver's side
catalytic converter. With the converter out of the way, there is lots
of room to work.
-
Install the 45 degree elbow. Do not forget the Teflon tape.
Turn the fitting so that the open end faces up and away from the
catalytic converter. Warning: do not over-tighten! NPT threads are
tapered... And too much muscle could crack the adapter ring!
-
Install the NPT adapter and your sending unit. If you removed
the catalytic converter, re-attach it and check clearances around the
sender unit.
-
Make the electrical connection to the sender unit with the
appropriate sized wire. Slide the heat resistant sleeve down over the
wire until it reaches the sender unit. This sleeve is suggested due too
the close proximity of the wire and the catalytic converter: you do not
want to have to sender unit short out and have to repeat this
process.
-
Slide the split loom over the heat resistant tubing, but stop
it short of the catalytic converter. The rest of the loom can be used
to conceal the sender unit wire until it hits the firewall. In the area
below the brake master cylinder, you'll see other split loom running
upward from the frame. Place the new one amongst them for camouflage.
-
Run the sender unit wire into the passenger compartment by
passing it through the rubber grommet next to the brake master cylinder
and wire it to your gauge. You're done!
Back to the index...
Advantages
-
Way cool mod: all visible parts are GM, looks factory.
-
Keeps back seat passengers occupied on long trips, can help end
arguments on who listens to what on the radio/CD
-
Lets passengers listen to the radio/CD without turning on the main
head unit and speakers.
Disadvantages
-
Cost: over $500 if you choose to not sell your original factory
head unit. You can sell your stock head unit to recoup
some of this cost.
-
Somewhat labor intensive: count on 8-10 hours between making
a wiring harness, removing half the interior, mounting everything,
and buttoning things back up.
-
Technically, requires cutting up one small piece of the interior
(namely the center armrest vinyl). This means you will have
to buy another center armrest cover if you ever undo the mod.
Parts Required:
-
Rear Seat Control from Chevy Venture Minivan (GM #16239121) : ~$125
-
97 Venture Head unit (LOOKS IDENTICAL to the stock SS head unit,
but is different internally, GM #16228471 for CD) : ~$380 trade, $520 list
-
Female Metripack pins to insert into the stock SS Metripack
connector on the back of the SS head unit. Obtain
the female connector used in custom stereo installs to attatch
to the stock head unit, and pull two pins out of it. Do not
buy the "easily available" connector from Wal-mart or the like :
it will be the MALE end! You need a total of two female pins with
leads for the connections on the head unit.
-
Approx 20 feet each of five different colors of 18 ga wire to run from
the rear seat to the head unit. Get the pages out of the Venture
Service Manual (see below) and the colors to get will be obvious
(RSA In, RSA Out, Acc Power, Dim Signal, Parking "On" Signal colors).
-
Either female Metripack connector to go on the rear-seat unit, OR
just buy the individual female pin connectors for the rear-seat
unit from a local supply store, make your own "piggyback", then slide
on the connectors and seal it all up with hot glue. I took the second
route, since I did not EVEN know where to start on buying the
metripack connector for the rear-seat unit!
-
Misc wire, solder, ground lugs, and zip-ties.
-
You REALLY need to get the wiring diagrams for the radio out of the
97 Venture Factory Service Manual. If you can't easily get them
from a local dealer, just email
Ed Runnion and he will
fax it to you. Do not attempt this mod without the wiring diagrams!
-
Remove the lower dash according to the procedure I give in the
6H6 switch installation instructions in the tech archives.
-
Before you unplug your old radio, be sure to disable the security
code in it or write it down! You will have a tough time selling
a radio with a security code enabled in it if you don't know the
code! Also, be sure that no tapes or CDs are inside the radio,
since the eject button doesn't work too well once there is no
power to the head unit.
-
Remove the two screws holding in the radio. Pull out the radio, and
unplug the harness and antenna. Put old radio away.
-
Slip two of the female connectors into Pins C2-12 and C2-13 as shown
on the 97 Venture manual pages. You will connect two of the five
wires in the "harness" running to the rear seat unit to these pins.
Do not connect your harness to these splices yet!
-
Splice into the accessory power, parking lights on, and parking lights
dimmer wires on the back of the radio. You will be connecting the
other three wires of the "harness" to the rear seat onto these
splices.
Do not connect your harness to these splices yet!
-
Remove the Rear seat bottom cushion. This basically is done by
pushing down and pulling forward on it to disengage from the
hold-in mechanism.
-
Remove the rear seatback by taking out the two screws (allen head)
holding in the left and right seatbelts. Then, lift the seatback off
its hooks and out of the car.
-
Remove the four plastic trim pieces holding the back of the carpet in,
then lift the carpet up to expose the floorpan underneath.
-
Once you remove the rear seatback, you will have to remove the
center armrest to mount the controls in it.
Do this by removing the metal rings holding the
upholstery "flap" to the rear seat (you can use zip-ties when
you reinstall) and then removing the bolts holding on the bracket.
-
Keeping track of which side of the console is the top (you might put
a piece of not-too-sticky tape on it, for instance), take
the console out of the rear seatback, and put it on your bench.
-
Once you have the armrest on the bench, disassemble it. Do
this by cutting the remaining metal rings (once again, you can
use zip-ties on reassembly). Then pull out the center
of the armrest (it is a plastic container!). This will make
more sense once you have the armrest out of the car!
-
Figure out where you want to place your controls on the armrest
(I chose the "top front" of the armrest when it is folded down)
and trace out the shape of rear-seat controls (behind the "face")
on the plastic armrest center. Then use a dremel tool or such and
cut the hole in the plastic container. Do NOT cut a hole in
the vinyl itself of the armrest yet! You want the hole to be
the minimum size possible, so that the fit will be snug.
-
Drill a hole into the back of the plastic container so you can route
your wires from the control unit out of it.
-
Now you need to wire up your control unit. You will be putting the
5-wire bundle that is approx 20 ft long onto the unit, as well as
one wire that is about 5 feet long (for a "clean ground" into the
floorpan under the rear seat) and 8 wires approx 5 feet long each
(to intercept the speaker wires). For this, pre-make the
wires with "female pins" on them (go to the local electronic parts
store and find appropriate parts) and heat-shrink them to prevent them
shorting out, then put all the pins in there and use good hot-glue
to seal up the entire assembly. Be sure you have everything right,
as this step is not easily undoable.
-
Reassemble the center armrest by putting the plastic container
(now with holes in it) back into the vinyl). Tie the vinyl back
up with zip ties where the metal rings once were.
-
Cut hole with minimum cutting in the vinyl where the rear
control unit will fit. Keep doing minimal slicing, and see if
the unit will go in with a snug fit. You will feed in the wires
into the console, and out the second hole you drilled in the back
of the console. Then, simply push the rear control
unit into the center console until it is flush.
-
Reattatch the center armrest to the rear seatback. Once again,
you will have to use zipties where you cut the metal rings that
held on the vinyl flap.
-
Put the rear seatback (with center armrest on it) back into the car,
and tighten the bolts for the seatbelts.
-
The wires to splice into for the rear speakers are in the bundle running
up the RIGHT side of the floorpan. You want to run the appropriate
colors from the FRONT of the car (i.e. head unit) into pins
A1-A4 of the Rear Seat Controls, and the wires from the REAR
of the car (i.e. speakers) into pins B1-B4. Match it all to the
colors/pins in the Venture manual, and you should be fine.
-
Run the ground wire to the floorpan under the left rear seat,
and attatch it there with a screw and crimp-on lug. You may
want to sand off the paint there first, so that you are 100%
sure that it is a good clean ground.
-
Run the five-wire bundle to the front of the car by running it up
the "channel" along the left floorboard where the wiring for the
taillights etc is already running. You will see this when you
have the rear seat out. You may have to remove the
trim along the left doors in order the reach under the carpet
and run the wires.
-
Reinstall the rear carpet, seatbottom, and trim. You are done
back there hopefully.
-
Your wiring bundle to the front should be coming out from
under the carpet up near the parking brake pedal. Run it up into
the wiring under the dash, and over across to the radio. If
you shove it up there good and attatch it to existing bundles with
zip ties, you should have no problems with it coming loose later.
-
Attatch the five wires of the bundle to the appropriate pins
or splices on the back of the radio harness. It helps here if you've
done the color coding correctly!
-
Plug new Venture head unit in, and put it into the dash (two screws
on front). Don't forget to plug in the antenna as well.
-
The Moment Of Truth (tm). Turn on the radio, and tune it to
a good station. Put in a CD/tape. Now, have a helper activate
the rear unit by hitting the "PWR" button. The amber light on
the rear unit should light up, and the rear speakers should turn
OFF. Now, the rear-seat passenger should be able to listen
to the "other" source in the head unit AT THE SAME TIME as the
front seat passenger is listening to the primary source. Also,
the rear seat passenger should be able to listen to anything
in the head unit IF the main unit is turned off. Note that
the rear-seat unit can ALSO listen to the same source as the
head unit (i.e. a CD) but in this case the controls
to change that track/station on the rear unit are over-ridden
by the controls on the head unit (i.e. the parent is always in
control of what comes out of the speakers).
-
Assuming you are real excited because everything works now,
reinstall the lower dashboard and enjoy your cool new
"Ultimate Roadtrip Mod".
Back to the index...
Advantages
The switch panel allows you to incorporate additional features into the Impala
using a GM parts bin switch that comes from the Caprice station wagon. This
switch fits right in to the dash of the Impala in to the "hole" to the left of
the steering wheel. Suggested accessories includes an additional PASS-Key
security feature and a handy antenna delete switch.
Disadvantages
Requires you to give up the change holder on the left of the dash. Not a big
disadvantage as the coin holder really doesn't hold much to start with.
Parts Required:
-
Chevrolet Wagon accessory switch panel (p/n 10203772)
-
Various lengths of wire and crimp-on connectors. Butt connectors work fine,
and you can use the piggyback splices if you want.
-
Electrical male/female type connectors or (OPTIONAL: soldering iron and
solder and some shrink tubing for wiring to the panel.....NOTE: The pigtail
for the reat of this switch panel may be difficult to obtain as it is
discontiued and GM has no more)
-
Remove the knee protector plate along with the five or six screws that hold
on the left portion of the dash under-fascia. There is no need to actually
remove the whole fascia. There is just enough room to work in there. There is
a screw behind the fuse panel, one at the bottom left of the dash, two at the
top of the dash gauge bezel which allow the bezel to be removed, one screw
behind the gauge bezel (to the left), and one more screw that hold bottom of
the headlight control knob/dial panel.
-
The headlight control panel assembly is held into place with one screw at
the bottom and then two plastic tabs that snap into the dash frame. Gently
pull it out being careful not to break the tabs. The piece shoud include the
headlight control knob/dials (held in by three easily distunguishable connector
plugs) and the "hole" cup which easily snaps into place. Remove the "hole" and
you'll see how easy the wagon switch panel snaps into place.
-
For VATS/Pass-Key mods, use the lower switch (momentary contact switch)
The VATS/Pass-Key controller module and relay are located (mounted) on a black
plate tucked WAAAAY up underneath the dash. You will have to remove one screw
and then slide the unit (plate) out.
-
Unhook the relay (small black) from the unit and the disconnect the relay
from the wiring connector. The car should not start now.
-
There are four wires on that connector:
- larger diameter red = hot
- larger diameter yellow = ?
- smaller diameter yellow with black stripe = ?
- smaller diameter plain yellow = THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT!
Mitch Posner suggested using the
dark blue wire that controls the fuel-enable signal to the PCM and cuts the
fuel pump switch seven seconds after starting up the car if the circuit is
open. This causes the car to shut off no matter what after that time.
However, while the switch is closed, the car functions normally. Therefore,
the car will ALWAYS start whether the circuit is open or closed.
This is an advantage, because one who forgets to push the switch to start the
car won't inadvertently keep cranking the engine.
If a valet function is desired, use ONLY an on/off style (not momentary
contact) switch for the fuel cut-off. If a momentary contact switch only is
desired for the fuel cut-off, an on/off switch must be used in conjunction
with it to override the circuit to create a valet function.
Incidentally, using a fuel cut-off switch is a viable alternative to the
starter cut-off, since that can be overridden by jumping the connector at the
source, the starter itself. The fuel switch cannot be overridden by an
alternate means as such.
-
That yellow wire goes hot while the key is turned and held in the START
position when you are starting your car. You must cut that wire and wire in a
simple momentary contact switch, such as the bottom switch of the wagon
accessory switch panel.
-
This momentary contact switch is governed by the smaller of the two
connector ports on the rear of the panel. The smaller port has four pins on it.
The two nearest the middle of the port are for the switch (doesn't matter which
you hook it to because it's only an open circuit completer). The other two pins
are for the backlight illumination on the switch panel. The larger of the port
has 7 pins. The 2nd and 3rd pins from end that are note wide pins are the pins
that are used by the on/off mode of the rear wiper/washer switch. Again, it
doesn't matter what pins you hook it up to.
-
For the antenna kill mod, use the upper switch's left half of the switch.
The correct wire on the antenna relay (located at the top corner of the
"convenience center" under the dash against the firewall...you will have to
remove it for easier working) is the SMALLER diameter green wire. Cut that wire
and wire and wire in the switch. This will force the antenna to the down
position when depressed.
-
To correctly hook up the backlight illumination, you must connect it
to the dimmer switch.
The center connector (for the headlight control knob...not the twilight
sentinel or the dimmer) has a brown wire. That is the wire that goes
hot when the lights are on. Use that one and any ground to hook to the
panel.
-
Double check that the twilight sentinel will also activate the
panel backlight.
The following procedure for mounting the 6H6 and relocating the cigarette
lighter was contributed by
Ed Runnion:
Parts Required:
- 6H6 Switch Panel, PN 10225158, about $25.
- Various lengths of wire and crimp-on connectors.
-
First you must remove the dash. Start by opening the glovebox, ashtray,
and drivers door, and remove the fuse panel cover.
-
Remove the four screws holding in the ashtray. Pull it
out, and unplug the light.
-
Remove the black bezel around the speedo cluster. It is
two screws pointed up, then pull it out to disengage it
from the "prongs" holding it to the grey plastic below.
-
Remove the following screws :
-
One on the left side beneath the bezel removed in step 3.
-
Similar screw in the "fuse panel" that is screwed into
the side of the air vent
-
Total of 4 screws along the bottom of the dash pointed
straight up.
-
One screw pointed straight up that is inside the "ashtray
area" basically below the ride side of the radio.
-
Optional: if it makes you feel better, remove the
two screws from the "kick panel" below the column and
remove the panel.
-
Now just YANK on the panel, it should come loose from the
prongs holding it in and practically fall in your lap!
Installation is the reverse of removal.
-
Now, to remove the lighter, there are a total of 3 prongs on the
front perimeter of the lighter to be pressed in, then the ligher
assembly basically pulls out. These prongs are in the same
location as on your new switch that mounts there for reference.
Pull the lighter out, and unplug it. Then unscrew the lighter
from the "bezel" it is mounted in by turning the "outside" of
the part of the lighter behind the bezel.
-
To remount it inside the ashtray, drill a hole basically the
diameter of the SMALLER part of the lighter on the "vertical"
face inside the ashtray recess below where the current lighter
is located. Use a file or gentle "drillbit persuasion" to make
the hole big enough if necessary. Then screw together the
lighter assembly around this hole (i.e. slide the inner part of
the sleeve thru the front of the dash panel, then screw on the
outer sleeve from the back). Reroute your lighter hook-up
to down below where it can be plugged in right before you
remount your dash. Don't forget to plug it in, or you will be
removing the dash again to plug it back.
-
Once you have the lighter removed, installing the 6H6 switch is easy!
Here is a basic pinout of the switch:
Top
1 = On/Off Switch (OFF Switch)
2 = On/Off Switch (OFF Switch)
3 = N/C
4 = N/C
5 = light
6 = light
7 = Contact Switch (Trunk Switch)
8 = Contact Switch (Trunk Switch)
Bottom
Use an ohmmeter, and these pins will become obvious.
-
There is a GM connector for it, but it is about $55 from the
dealer! Easier to make your own, or get lucky like I did and
snag one off a junkyard 9C1.
-
Wire pins 5/6 in parallel with same pins on the "Trip - E/M"
switch on the other side of the dash, and your switch will now
be backlit. I then wired pins 1/2 such that it "breaks" the
dark green wire off the back of the radio to the antenna relay.
This will enable you to lower your Antenna with a push of the
"Off" switch on the 6H6 panel. I then tried to wire 7/8 such
that it goes between +12 and a 475 ohm resistance to pin C2-14
on the radio. In theory this will give a "mute" switch on your
radio using the steering wheel interface, but I haven't got this
one working yet (I believe Scott Mueller has however...).
-
To remove the symbology from the switches, try a couple light coats
of permanent black marker. The switch is white plastic painted black
(the light shows through the remaining white sections), so solvents
or sandpaper won't remove the lettering.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Installing the tachometer allows you to monitor engine
RPM, a feature that is sorely missed by some 94-95 owners. Other
gauges can be installed in '96 models to monitor oil pressure
or voltage levels.
Disadvantages
You have to install a non-factory gauge in the interior of the
car. It requires some cutting of (replacable) interior pieces.
Parts Required:
- Replacement black dashboard instrument cluster bezel (P/N
???). Optional, but good insurance. About $15.
- A 2 1/16" tachometer. A Cyberdyne unit is about $50 from
JC Whitney or Summit. It has two red digits indicating RPM
and goes totally black when the engine is off. JC Whitney
also carries a 2 1/16" analog unit for $21 that fits. It
has a backlit white and green display (a little dim for
some, but it works fine). No matter what you
get, make sure it is at most 2 1/16" wide and no deeper than
3 1/2".
- 18 gauge wire and a length of black ribbed wiring conduit. About
$5.
- Soldering iron or some method of splicing.
- Remove the black bezel surrounding the instrument cluster by
removing the two bolts at the top of it and pulling it back
away from the dash. There are three clips at the bottom in the
back and two guide posts. Be careful with the rubber ring that
goes around the steering column as it is held on by some flimsy
plastic rivets and cannot be reattached easily.
- The tach will go in the right hand side of the black plastic
in the bezel to avoid interference with the turn signal and
tilt levers and to allow the sacrifice of one of the two clips
on the right if need be (the left has but one). If you're careful,
you can keep both of them. It will need
to rest on or near the point where
the smooth grey plastic ends and the molded grey plastic for
the rest of the dash begins. Using the tabs and holes as a
reference, find where the center of the tach should be if it
would rest about 1/8" above the lip and mark the spot
on the back of the bezel.
- Using a 2" hole saw and starting from the back of the bezel,
cut out the hole for the tachometer. If you screw it up, don't
worry: the bezel is only $15 and you can always try again.
- Trial fit the tach. If it doesn't fit, work around the exterior
of the hole with an Exacto knife until it does. Don't cut too
much: it should fit tightly.
- Cut an identical 2" hole out of the grey plastic behind the
bezel. You can re-insert the bezel and use it as a guide.
The tach will angle downward slightly, so take this
into account.
- Again, trial fit the tachometer. You may need to cut into
the two slots for the clips. Make sure the tach fits in below
the clear instrument cover and does not bind. It'll be tight but
it will fit. Keep trimming the grey plastic until it does.
Repeat ad-nauseum. You might need to cut into one of the
rectangular holes for the clips to make it fit.
- Once it fits in well, make sure the wires are routed so
that they'll dangle into the are below the instrument panel
and replace the bezel.
- Remove the access panel below the steering wheel by removing
the two screws on the bottom of it. Then remove the steel plate
behind it by removing the four bolts and pulling it to the
right. The wires for the tach should be dangling down there,
or at least accessible from there. Installing a four-way
connector here would be a good idea in case you ever need to
remove the tach.
- Tap in a "dimming" or "lights on" signal. The ashtray has
both dimming lead and a ground wire going to its light. The
wires are also free enough to work with. The grey wire is
the dimming wire, and the black wire is the ground.
- To get power to the tach, you might want to tap into one of
the orange wires at the bottom of the fuse box. Check the
Helm's manuals for details: you want one that is only hot
during run.
- To get the actual tachometer lead hooked up, you need to route
it through the firewall using a factory, unused grommet. Look
behind the LH wheelwell. There is an oval, rubber piece there.
Now remove the LH kickpanel and look near the point where the
hood latch cable exits. If you pull back the insulation, you'll
see the same grommet. Use a sharp point to
poke a hole in the plug in the firewall, and then squeeze the 18
gauge wire through it. You might have to fish it through using
a coathanger or something.
- The tachometer can take its signal from the black and white wire
(negative) terminal at the coil pack on the front of the LH cylinder head.
Alternatively, another member has plugged the lead into fourth,
unused female terminal on the coil. The both go to the same
spot.
- Another good place to get a tach signal
would be from the PCM connector pin A13. All B/F-car PCMs output the tach
signal on this pin. You will need a terminal p/n 12084913 (for 20 ga. wire)
to install in the PCM A connector (the factory uses a
white wire for this application).
- The wires should be inserted inside of factory ribbed
conduit. You can cut a short length and route to one of the
factory conduits from the firewall grommet, or route a
new conduit all the way to the coil pack.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allows you to force your power antenna to an up or down position to
avoid problems such as having it freeze up in the winter or allowing
it to stay down while you play CD's.
Disadvantages
For a clean installation, you must relocate your lighter to the ashtray,
as the 9C1 cars do.
Parts Required:
- The 9C1 switches (P/N ???, $??.00) that go in
place of the lighter if you want the switches in the factory
location OR
- An easy and invisible solution is to put a small black rocker switch
in the back roof of the "HOLE" (the change holder near your headlight
switch. The switch should be flat black plastic and
placed to be invisible. It can readily be switched by feel and if you ever
want to remove it, all you have to do is get a new "hole" liner box.
- The dash needs to be slightly disassembled. The Instrument Cluster
Trim ring is easy to take off, but the 96 service manual only shows 3 screws
for the dash lower trim piece. There are 7 screws with 4 across the bottom,
one in the ashtray, one by the glovebox, and one behind the left fusebox
lid. You will probably need to remove the ashtray assembly to get to one of
them. Getting the lower dash piece off is nerve wracking. Just make sure
to get all of those 1/4" screws and unsnap it from left to right. Also keep
track of where each screw comes from! Refer to the service manuals for
details on dash disassembly.
- If you are installing the switch in the "hole", remove the "Headlight Switch
Panel". The "hole" unsnaps from the "Headlight Switch Panel".
- Refer to the service manual wiring diagrams. Remove the convenience
center 2 screws, (you may need to remove the "tall" audible alarm module
plugged into the convenience center to get to the top screw).
- Unwrap the
black tape from the emerging harness and look at the wires coming from the
lower connector. Find the smaller of the 2 dark green wires from the back
of the antenna relay and find a good place to cut into the wire to put a
switch in the circuit. This dark green wire is
connected to the radio at pin 8 of the C1 connector, then it goes over to pin
E7 of the big C200 connector under the LH side of the dash, and from there it
goes to the Power Antenna Relay connector at pin B.
- Using compatible crimp-on connectors allows you to
disconnect the switch from the circuit and attach the 2 ends of the original
wires back together if you ever want to. Run your switch wires to where
your switch will be.
- If you are installing in the "hole", Install the switch by cutting the the far
right roof of the "hole".
A little Dremel Moto-Tool with a cut-off wheel makes it easy to cut the
plastic accurately. A snap-in type switch makes it easy to install in the
cut hole.
- If you are using the 9C1 switches, remove and relocate the lighter to
the right side of the ash tray. Replace with the new switches and wire
them up. The diagrams for the switches are in the service manuals.
- When reinstalling the dash trim pieces, put in all the screws before
tightening them. As you tighten them, gently pull back and forth on the
close area of the dash and tighten just past where it stops rattling/creaking.
- The antenna only goes up when the switch is flipped, and if it is flipped
after the Ant. is up, it immediately goes down.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Prevents gas from dripping onto your rear bumper when fueling up.
Disadvantages
None.
Parts Required:
- Caprice Gas Bib, P/N 10186225, $???
- You might want to also pick up a couple of the white connectors
in the rear license plate frame, as they may break while removing
them.
Procedure (from various people):
- Remove your rear license plate. This involves unscrewing the two
screws on top and pulling the plate off.
- Remove the two square white tabs in the bracket, noting the
direction that they go in.
- The bib fits between the license plate and its backing plate,
attached at the top by the two white tabs.
At the bottom of the bib are two slits that look like they go thru
same-sized pieces of metal at the bottom of the license plate
bracket.
- The letters "FWD" should be facing up towards you with the license
bracket pulled down, and should appear almost directly under the filler
pipe. The letters "TOP" should be towards the top of the bracket, closest to
you with the bracket in the lowered position. Both words will be visible
with the bib and license plate installed, and the bracket lowered as if to
add fuel. If not you got it on upside down or backwards.
- Reinstall the white tabs in the correct position, replacing any that
you broke taking them out.
- The rest of the bib is pushed like a tongue under the fuel filler neck, between
the neck and the bumper. It's function is to deflect any gas under the car
away from the bumper. You DO NOT have to remove the license plate bracket at
all to install the bib.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Directs additional cooling air to the brake area during high-speed
driving, and allows the full width of the tire to be viewed from the
front of the vehicle. It also makes the front look more narrow.
Disadvantages
Some have reported that they increase the amount of water that is
thrown up during driving through rain.
Parts Required:
- Deflectors, Left and Right, 10220593 and 10220594, about $4 each.
Procedure (from
various sources
):
- Take off the old deflectors that wrap around the sides of the
front moulding. A small 1/4" socket set works well.
You will need to reuse 2 of the 3 screws you now have from
taking the stock deflectors off.
- Look on the 9C1 deflectors, they are marked LH (driver side)
and RH (passenger side). You can also tell by examination: the
deflectors have a hard, 90 degree turn followed by a short, straight
piece at one end, and a gentle, rounded end on the other. The end with
the 90 degree bend attached up by the radiator where the center air
skirt is located, and the gently curved end points toward the brakes.
The 9C1 deflectors go front to back, not side to side
like the stock deflectors. Once you install them, you will
see how they channel air to the front rotors.
- Take the correct 9C1 deflector, and screw in the hole
closest to the center of the vehicle, next to the middle
deflector still in place. This screw goes in vertically.
- Screw in the hole that is in the brace surrounding the
radiator. There is a pre-drilled hole in the sheetmetal
near the back of the radiator housing that is
already put there for you by GM. This screw that goes in
horizontally.
- If you want the deflector to meet up perfectly with no gap, install some tiny
black oxide coated metal clips from behind. Get a standard factory style
U-clip retainer (you can get them at most parts stores) and cut it slightly
with some side cutters to fit over the plastic air dam pieces. It now clips
from the rear, and each side grabs one of the plastic air dam parts, holding
them tightly together.
Original (stock) deflector setup:
+-----+ +-----+
| | | |
| | | |
| | <-- Tires --> | |
| | | |
| | | |
+-----+ +-----+
| |
| LH Stock Deflector RH Stock Deflector |
| / \ |
\____________ _____Center Deflector_____ ____________/
And here is how it should look after it is modified:
+-----+ +-----+
| | | |
| | | |
| | <-- Tires --> | |
| | | |
| | | |
+-----+ +-----+
\ /
\ /
|X <----- 9C1 Deflectors -----> X|
| |
|X_ _____Center Deflector_____ _X|
X = mounting points
Back to the index...
Advantages
Prevents mud and gravel from winter from being thrown up against the
paint. The large rear quarters are especially susceptible to damage.
Disadvantages
Mud flaps aren't the prettiest thing to add to a vehicle, and the Impala
does not accept standard mud flaps.
Parts Required:
- One or two sets of mud flaps. GM Performance Parts makes some nice ones.
- 3/16 X 3 inch flat stock steel.
- A jig or hack saw and some extra blades.
- 6-8 #12 self tapping screw per mud flap.
- Washers for the above screws (for spacing).
-
Pick out the flaps you want (but make 'em big!),
-
Cut the stock. Get plenty of extra blades for the jig or hack saw: you
will go through them pretty quick! Each piece needs to be about 14 inches,
and you need a piece for each flap
-
Bend the stock to 90 degrees about three inches from one end.
You need to measure
for your needs; your body may not be on the frame square and the dimensions
will be different between the two sides. What you are aiming for is to mount
the short end of the bend to the frame with four ~No. 12 self tapping screws.
Bending the stock isn't easy: take your time and be patient.
-
After you have the stock bent, fit it up to the frame so that
it runs parallel to the ground behind the rear wheel. It doesnt have to be
perfect, you can work out any misalignemnt issues when you mount the flap.
-
Use washers between the steel and the frame to get it as square as possible
and flush with the inside of the wheel well. The other end doesn't have to
butt up to the wheel well, just close.
-
After you have this on, just mount your flap to the flat stock using more
self tapping screws. Watch your clearence with the exhaust pipe and trim to
fit.
-
I also mounted some on the front using more of the flat stock but I didnt
like the looks of them on the front and took them off! I may go at it again
later this year, but the engineering concept looked like it would work and
I'll pass it on to anyone that is interested, just drop me a line!
Back to the index...
Advantages
Gives your car a custom, one-off appearance that matches the
original Impala SS prototype.
Disadvantages
None, really.
Parts Required:
- TrimBrite T-1816 2" by 24" Red Reflective Tape. A couple of
bucks at Pep-Boys or a similar store.
- The existing chrome bowtie is exactly 2" tall by 5-1/4" wide, so cut off a
piece of this tape just over 5-1/4" long and stick it on as to completely
cover the chrome bowtie, aligning the top and bottom edges with the top and
bottom of the bowtie.
-
- Take an Exacto knife and a metal ruler, and use
them to carefully trim the excess tape from the inside and sides of the
chrome bowtie. The ruler will help you trim a straight and accurate line,
exactly matching the outline of the chrome bowtie underneath.
- Trim the red tape so that it
completely covers all of the chrome, but not any of the black center or
side areas. If you screw up and cut a bad edge or scratch the tape, just
peel it off and start over! The 24" length will allow you to do 4 bowties,
so there is plenty of spare material.
- With this deep red reflective tape, the bowtie absolutely lights on fire
when you hit it with headlights at night! Also, since this is merely a piece
of tape, you can peel it off and return to the stock look anytime you like.
Another option is to use
Chevy pieces from the Chevy parts bins. Order 22591877, $5.45
(trade), which is the rear emblem from a 1996 Cavalier Z-24 coupe.
It is red with a black border and adhesive backed. If you own a DGGM
car, or if you just want to be different,
there is a blue bow-tie (BBT) with the chrome outlining that is used on
the 97 Cavalier: the p/n is #22591876.
Here are some tips for installation:
- Do not use heat to remove it. Several members have
tried and ended up with wrinkled paint or a warped grill.
- There is a hole in the grill behind the stock silver bowtie.
Use a Philips screwdriver to push out on the stock bowtie and
then slide a credit card, plastic putty knife,
or some other flat surface underneath
to cut through the stock adhesive. Work it up and down.
- You don't need a blade to cut through the adhesive. You run
a greater risk of damaging the grill with a blade.
- Use you fingers to roll off any adhesive tape that remains
on the grill. Some 3M Adhesive Remover will make the job
easier. Be sure it is clean where you want to apply the new
bow tie.
- The Cavalier bowtie has a small "bump" on the top. You can feel
this through the adhesive. Although it really doesn't matter,
this can be used to get the orientation of the bowtie correct.
- Make sure you get the bowtie centered before the adhesive
touches the grill. Once it touches, you cannot remove it again.
You get only one chance.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allows your car to be more visible to other motorists in all conditions.
Disadvantages
Bulb life is decreased, more power required to run the alternator to power
the lights, does nothing that you couldn't do with the headlight switch.
Parts Required:
- Goodwrench Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Module, P/N: 12370131
-
The DRL can be physically mounted to the top of the right inside front
fender under the hood with two stainless steel sheet metal screws (do
not over tighten - sheet metal will strip). All wiring should be covered
with that black plastic spiral wrap that you can get in Radio Shack
and elsewhere that looks like the factory wire wrap.
-
Black Wire: Wants to see vehicle Ground at all times.
Crimp an eye lug on the end of this wire and connect it to the
grounding screw near the battery.
-
Red Wire: Wants to see +12V at all times.
This wire is protected with an in line fuse. Connect to the positive
terminal on the battery using another crimped on eye lug. This can be
facilitated by purchasing a double ended replacement for the 5/16
battery cable bolt at a local auto stereo shop. This bolt goes thru
the connector on the end of the positive battery cable. One end holds
the battery cable to the battery while the other end (stud & nut) is
available for auxiliary connections to the battery. They use these to
connect trunk mounted amplifiers to the battery and are often gold
plated. Cost is about $5.
-
Pink Wire: Wants to see +12V with ignition switch in "run" position.
Connect this wire to the output of
fuse #7 (Primary Fan) at the Underhood Electrical Center (UEC) using a
3M tap connector (do not cut the wire). Fuse #7 is hot when the
ignition switch is in either the start or run position. The UEC is a
plastic "box" that is located at the right rear (passenger side) of
the engine compartment. This was one of the most difficult wires to
get at so be very patient.
-
Tan Wire: Supplies reduced voltage to headlamps during DRL mode.
Connect this wire to the tan wire at the rear of the right front
headlamp using a 3M tap connector (do not cut the tan wire going to
the headlight - instead tap into it).
-
Brown Wire: Wants to see +12V when headlight switch is manually
activated.
Connect this wire to the gray/black wire (circuit #308) behind the
right front parking lamp assembly. The instructions included with the
DRL Module are incorrect for our Impala's in stating that "This wire
is dark brown in GM vehicles (circuit #9)." Circuit #9 in the Impala
stops at the I/P fuse panel but continues as circuit # 308.
-
White Wire: Wants to see +12V when the park brake is not
activated and ground (0 volts) when it is.
Connect this wire to the tan/white wire near the park brake using
a 3M tap connector (do not cut the tan/white wire - instead tap into
it). The use of this wire is optional but I recommend making the
connection. If this feature is not desired, or your are not sure,
route the white wire to the area of the park brake, insulate the end
(insulated butt splice connector - use only one end) and roll it up
for possible future use.
-
Several of the above wires are not long enough as supplied with the
DRL Module. The pink will just make it while the tan, brown
and white wires need extending. Of course, this depends on where you mount the
module and what circuit you chose to connect to. Use insulated butt
splice connectors and wire of the same gauge or heavier to make the
extensions. It is very helpful, but not necessary, to use the same
color wire when making an extension.
-
The 3M tap connectors referenced above do not come with the DRL
module but are available at Radio Shack or at any electrical supply
store. To use them to tap into a vehicle wire without cutting or
stripping the wire simply assure that the plastic flap is open and
metal "knife" is not depressed, slide the vehicle wire into the slot
on one side of the connector, insert the DRL wire into the open "hole"
in the end of the connector, depress the "knife" blade with pliers
(strips the wire and simultaneously makes the two connections) and
snap the flap closed. Also, the yellow butt splice connectors that do
come with the DRL are too large for most of the connections while blue
ones (not supplied) are probably what you want. Do not use pliers to
crimp butt splice connectors - rather purchase an inexpensive crimp
tool at Sears or Home Depot.
-
If your Impala is equipped with a factory installed Twilight Sentinel
system, Installation Note #1 of the DRL installation instructions
probably applies (it did for my 96). Install the DRL Module first and
then check for the symptoms described in note #1 - namely, unwanted
flickering of the park lamps and chattering of the Twilight Sentinel
Module under the dash. If this condition occurs, you must install a
12V DC SPDT relay (GM# 12077866, DELCO# 15-8386). Radio Shack also
sells a good substitute.
-
The headlamp automatic control module (Twilight Sentinel Module) is
located in the Right Hand "A" pillar, behind the RF passenger kickpad
(to the right of right front passengers right foot). You must cut the
yellow wire going to the module and install the relay per Installation
Note #1. This is not too difficult if you are patient and careful.
If you have the Factory Service Manual, refer to page 8A-101-1 in
Book 2 of 2. The yellow wire is somewhat short so be careful where
you cut it in order to leave room to make the new connections. The
added relay can be left hanging or mounted with a sheet metal screw
(has a mounting tab with hole) or mounted with Velcro (neat).
Back to the index...
Advantages
It illuminates the dark side of the trunk, looks factory, reduces the
chance that factory wires will suffer damage from trunk contents (because
their exposed length is shorter). The rocker switch is unobtrusive,
looks factory, and makes it easy to switch the lights off if the trunk
is to be open for an extended time (like during a show).
Disadvantages
You'll have to drill a hole in the package shelf and enlarge an
existing hole using a grinder.
Parts Required:
- Trunk lamp assembly, P/N 10268235 (about $7 from World
Chevrolet)
- Small black rocker switch (NAPA #RS1046 is a good choice; about
$3)
- Rubber grommet, (NAPA #784630 works well)
- 6 feet of #14 or #16 automotive wire
- Electrical tape and/or shrink tubing (if you solder instead of
using crimped connections)
-
Cut two 3-in lengths of wire and strip both ends. Solder one
to each of the terminals on the switch. Insulate these and all
other joints/splices with shrink tubing or tape. Alternatively,
you can use female spade connectors here.
-
Cut the mercury switch off the new trunk lamp assembly and
splice a 3-ft length of wire to each of the two pigtails coming
from the lamp.
-
Open the trunk and disconnect the power connector for the
trunk light. It is located near the left side of the left trunk
hinge, toward the back. Note the location of the mercury switch
for the factory lamp, mounted on the left hinge arm.
-
Examine the underside of the package shelf and locate the
following features:
a. Narrow, hollow cavity running between the trunk hinges along
the rear of the package shelf.
b. Factory-installed trunk lamp, mounted in left side of hollow
cavity.
c. Oval hole just to the left of the factory lamp. This is the
hole that you will enlarge slightly to mount the rocker switch.
d. Square hole on right side of package shelf, symmetric with
factory trunk lamp. This is where the second trunk lamp will
snap in.
e. Angled vertical surface at left end of the hollow cavity.
This is the place to drill a hole through which to feed the
wires. You'll need to install a rubber grommet here to protect
the wires.
-
Carefully unsnap the factory lamp from its receptacle and
cut both leads, leaving about 3 in of each attached to the lamp.
Exercising care to avoid damaging the insulation, slip the wires
from the notch in the lens so that they will feed out the back
of the assembly. Also, trace the wires from the mercury switch
and power connector and slip these wires from the clip just
inboard of the hinge arm.
-
Locate the position at which you will drill the 3/8-in hole
for the grommet (see 4f above) and mark it using a center punch
and hammer. Spread newspapers to protect the carpet and then
drill the hole. If necessary, clean up the edges using a
rat-tail file.
-
Widen the hole where the rocker switch will be installed
using a small grinding stone chucked in a drill or Dremel tool.
Don't let the grinding stone get away from you and scratch the
paint on the package shelf! Stop occasionally and test-fit the
switch, but don't push it all the way in until you're ready to
finally install it! It's easiest to just lie on your back in the
trunk for this and subsequent steps. Use eye protection!
-
Use some black enamel to cover the bare edges created in the
previous two steps.
-
Feed the leads of the new trunk lamp through its intended
mounting hole and pull one out through the switch hole and the
other through the factory lamp hole. A straightened coat hanger
helps with this. Gently snap the lens in place.
-
About a foot from the end, splice one of the leads from the
factory lamp into the lead hanging from the lamp hole. Now feed
the free end back up through the lamp hole and out through the
3/8-in hole you drilled. Slip the grommet on the wire and tie a
loose overhand knot in it to retain the grommet and to identify
this lead as the one that goes to the power connector. Don't
install the grommet yet.
-
Cut about a foot off the wire hanging from the switch hole
and solder the other lamp lead and one of the switch leads to
the end still attached to the new lamp.
-
Solder the piece of wire you just cut off to the other
switch lead and then feed it back through the switch hole and
out through the 3/8-in hole you drilled and through the grommet.
-
Splice the wire from step 12 into the wire coming from the
mercury switch. This places the mercury switch and the rocker
switch in series.
-
Untie the overhand knot in the wire from step 10 and splice
it with the wire coming from the power connector.
-
Reconnect the power connector and check the operation of
the rocker switch and the lamps. With the switch on, check the
operation of the mercury switch and verify that the wires do not
bind or strain. Use the original clip(s) to control the wires.
-
Now you can install the grommet, snap the switch in place,
and snap the original lamp lens back into its receptacle.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Bulbs will be much brighter with the lower voltage drop across the harness.
Safer when using high wattage bulbs.
Disadvantages
Obsoletes the current wiring harness, leaving it dangling.
Note that you can also order a 14 gauge harness from Competition Limited
for about $70 instead of fabricating this one. However, if you are the
do-it-yourself type, or want the thicker 12 gauge wire, then you may
want to try this. This will run about $50.
Parts Required:
- 7 feet of 3 strand 12 gauge power cord
- 4 feet of red 10 gauge wire
- 1 foot of black 12 or 14 gauge wire
- 30 amp fuse link (NOT a fusable link, but a strand of wire with
a base to mount a 30 amp blade fuse or circuit breaker)
- One 3/8" 10 gauge solderless ring connector (the yellow size)
- Two 1/4" (blue) solderless ring connectors
- Various blade or bullet type solderless connectors, both red
and blue sizes, or use electrical (rosin core) solder
- Six metri-pack connectors #280. Conduct-tite p/n 85339
- Various sizes of shrink tubing
- Two 9004 headlight sockets
- about ten feet or so of 3/8 or 1/2" plastic wire loom
- about ten medium or large zip ties
- dielectric grease
- two auxillary light relays and matching pigtail sockets.
Try an off-road hotrod shop.
- 3 inch piece of bracket metal (L-shaped) with one hole in
each leg of the 'L'
- two 1/4" hex head bolts with washer and nut, about 1/2"
long and preferably stainless
- epoxy (one that will stick to metal)
-
Before you start on the car, you need to make the harness.
Strip about 4-6" of the outer covering off the three strands of wire on one
end. Using a crimping tool, strip all three wires about 1/2".
-
Now take the little white retainer off the headlight sockets and yank the
wires out. Get the metri-pack connectors and crimp or solder them onto
the three wires. (These connectors are the metal contacts you see inside the
sockets.) The wires are a little big for the connectors, so you may have to
use a little ingenuity to make them stay on.
-
Holding the socket with the bulb clip up and the bulb end of the socket
facing away from you, so that the middle hole is highest, the wires go into
the socket in this order: black
(ground) on the left, low beam (tan wire) in the middle, and high beam
(green) on the right. Put some dielectric grease on each connector before
you insert it for corrosion protection. The driver's side headlight socket
is now completed.
-
Now cut about a foot of wire off the other end. Strip the outer
covering from this segment, and use the three wires to make a pigtail
for the other socket, using the instructions given above.
-
Now, go out to the car and run the harness from the driver's side
headlight, in front of the radiator along the X brace, and over to the
passenger side. Cut the harness to fit, but leave yourself about 8-12
inches slack so you can fit things around the battery.
-
Clarification note: Each relay pigtail has four wires, a coil hot, coil
ground, main hot wire and the main power wire. The coil wires merely
activate the relay, the main wires carry most of the current. The main
hot wire will be connected to the remote battery terminal, and the main
power will be connected to either the high beams or low beams.
-
Strip about six inches of the outer covering from the remaining harness
wire. Slide a 2" piece of shrink tubing over each wire. Either solder
or crimp the 1/4" ring connector onto the 1 foot piece of black wire.
-
Now comes the tricky part. Connect the socket's pigtail to the wiring
harness, but also connect the ground wire you just made to the harness's
ground wire and the power leads from the relay pigtails to the power
wires on the harness and the socket pigtails. This makes three 'T'
connections. If you are crimping, insert the relay and ground wires
from the pigtail side; if you are soldering, lay the relay and ground
wires parallel to the socket pigtail wires. After you have connected
them, put the shrink tubing over the connections.
-
On the relay pigtails: on the ground wire for the coils, hold them
side-by-side and crimp the two of them together with a 1/4" ring
connector. Use a blade connector and do the same thing with the hot
wires, or solder them directly to the fuse link and shrink tube them.
Put blade connectors on the positive coil wires, as you may have to
unplug them during testing.
-
Relay bracket: Take the L-shaped bracket and bolt the relays to it
back-to-back with the bracket between them. Now put the other bolt
through the other side of the bracket, and bolt it down tight. Mix up a
little epoxy (e.g. JB Weld) and put it thickly around the nut not
holding the relays, being careful not to get any on the threads of the
bolt. (Gluing the nut to the bracket this way will keep you from
getting six different cramps later trying to hold a wrench in the proper
position inside the fender.)
-
Put the plastic wire loom over the harness to give it a factory look.
-
It will be easier if you remove your battery at this point. Don't
forget to write down your radio's anti-theft code before you do it.
-
Cut the stock headlight sockets off the wiring harness. Cap all the
wires on the driver's side, but use the two hot wires (green is high
beam and tan is low beam) on the passenger's side to activate the
relays. Strip the stock wires and crimp blade connectors onto them.
That way, you can change them later if you screw up.
Use dielectric grease on all non-soldered connections for
corrosion protection.
-
Plug the relays into their pigtails. If you will look at the insde of
the fender where you removed your battery, you will see a hole that is
perfect for bolting the relays to the inside of the fender and
completely out of sight. Take the ground coil wires and the ground wire
from the harness (remember, you put ring connectors on them) and string
them on the bolt holding the bracket before bolting down the bracket.
Connect the hot coil wires to the stock headlight wires; again, green is
high and tan is low. You may want to use a couple of zip ties to clean
everything up at this point. Now thread the other end of the wiring
harness through the gap between the headlight and the radiator, down
along the X-brace, and up the other side and through the gap on the
driver's side. Put zip ties on to hold it in position, but don't
tighten them all the way down yet.
-
Starting at the remote battery post by the under hood fuse box near the
passenger side firewall,
crimp or solder the 3/8" ring connector to the 10 gauge wire. If you
solder it, take the yellow plastic off with a pair of needle nose
pliers. After it cools, slide a piece of shrink tube up the wire from
the other end to cover the connection. Now slide a second piece onto
the wire, all the way up to the ring end. Solder the fuse wire onto the
other end of the 10 gauge wire. Now slide the pieces of shrink tubing
over the connection and shrink it. Put the rest of the wire loom over
it to make it look factory. Run it up along the fender to the remote
battery post near the antenna and bolt the ring connector to the post.
Take out the stock bulbs and install the high power ones, and connect
the harness. Put zip ties where appropriate, tighten everything down,
and re-install the battery. If the low beams come on when the high
beams are supposed to, just switch the coil wires that connect to the
stock headlight wires.
-
Install time is about 1 hour, and on a difficulty scale of 1
to 10, I'd give it a 3, where 1 is changing your oil, and 10 is putting
in a new drivetrain.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Bulbs are much brighter than stock and the beam pattern can be
refocused, which means better visibility at night. You can also
customize the front headlamp area to give your car a unique nighttime
appearance. Light pattern is much more even and cutoff is much sharper
than US spec lights. High wattage bulbs will not blind oncoming drivers
due to sharper cutoff patterns.
Disadvantages
The export capsules' beam pattern may not be pleasing to everyone.
Other drivers may be offended by the brighter lights. Questionable
legality. Expensive.
If you just want brighter lights (and not the new
beam pattern), try JC Whitney (PN 83KZ0801A for 55/100W and 83KZ0802A
for 80/100W, about $10 each: they are also available through the NAISSO
superstore for less)) for high wattage bulbs for the stock headlights.
Method 1: Installing Higher Power Bulbs
This method allows you to install the higher power T84 bulbs in the
stock headlamp capsules (with a few modifications). This is by far the
most economical route, and will dramatically brighten your lights.
Note that there is also a high-quality kit available from Competition Limited
( 313-464-1458 ) for $50, or the kit and 2 80/100W bulbs for 68.00.
Parts Required:
- High power bulbs. Try JC Whitney (PN 83KZ0801A for 55/100W and 83KZ0802A
for 80/100W, about $10 each).
- A pair of 30 amp relays
(Labeled "BAJA TOUGH", have the Desert Fox name on the package, part number
DF005, cost about $4.00 at AutoZone)
- Two sockets for the 9004 lamps that
look identical to the original GM sockets (Calterm part number 09004, cost
$2.97 from AutoZone).
- A 30 amp circuit breaker, (part number 15-1 from
Big "A" auto parts, cost $4.75).
- Black, ribbed wire loom. About $2.
- Miscellaneous wire, connectors, and metal bits.
- Remove the battery from the car.
- Install the circuit breaker on a homemade bracket near the under hood fuse box.
- Connect it to the main terminal on the rear of the fuse box with #12 wire.
- Run #14 wire (through original style plastic wire loom) to a bracket
holding the two relays which can be mounted in the opening inside the right
fender directly behind the battery. There is an existing hole for the mount.
- The new headlamp sockets came with wires long enough to easily reach
the relays from the right side lamp. Run #14 wire to the high and low
beam wires on the driver's side socket, again using factory style wire loom.
- On each side of the car, the ground for the lamps can be obtained by using one
of the existing ground bolts near the headlamp sockets. The ground wires
for the relays were joined and connected to the ground terminal on the
original right side headlamp socket using an old connector from a 9004 bulb.
The high and low wires were connected likewise to the old socket and then
one wire to each relay.
- Now, the original headlamp circuit only controls the new relays
which draw about 200ma (0.2 amp) each. The voltage drop at the lamps now is
about 0.5 volts which means the under similar conditions as those outlined
in the test above, the bulbs will be seeing roughly 13.65 volts.
This is slightly ABOVE the design voltage for the lamps but one thing that
can be said is they are BRIGHT NOW! If bulb life turns out to be a problem,
I can add resistance in the #14 wire to the relays from the circuit breaker
and lower the voltage but for the time being, it works well! The light
pattern in front of the car is dramatically better, or more "full" on low
beam and the high beams are best described as "impressive".
- The installation is virtually invisible except for the new circuit
breaker on the bracket back by the fuse box. This is fine with me as I
intend to add some radio equipment and will use this breaker to protect the
radio wiring as well.
Method 2: Installing Export Style Headlight Capsules
This method allows you to install the clear, glass export style headlight capsules
along with the brighter bulbs. This gives you a more defined and sharp beam pattern,
which some people may like. They also give the front of your Impala a unique look.
They are quite expensive, however.
Parts Required
- 16519237, T84 Capsule Assembly LH, $243.00
- 16519238, T84 Capsule Assembly RH, $243.00
- 2x 8905394, Connector, Headlamp, $5.50
- 2x 12159672, Socket, Turn-Signal/Park, $41.25 (may only work with
single filaments: has not been tested (see text))
- 2x 10031004, 158 bulb w/blue silicone cap $1.31
- Proper sockets for the bulb adapters (see procedure). Connectors
are P/N 6288471 (you need two) and terminals are P/N 6294068 (you
need 6).
- Optional: male weather pack connector #12030291 ($6.25 list)
- Optional: terminal connector #12355107 ($1.70 list ea.)
- Trim Blackout tape (Trimbrite T-9005 1-3/8")
- Electrical tape
Tools Needed
- 10mm wrench (or socket and ratchet)
- #2 phillips screwdriver
- 2.5" Hole Saw
- Exacto knife or razor blade
- Soldering iron and solder
- Wire strippers
-
Note that these lamps require different connectors and sockets for the
headlamp and t-signal/park bulbs. The same t-signal/park bulbs are used
with the T84 lamps even though the sockets are different.
The factory parts for the connectors and sockets are
expensive, and, as an alternative, you can get the headlamp connector and
t-signal/park bulb socket for much less money at any auto parts stores.
For the t-signal/park bulb socket, you can use General Auto Specialties #34390,
and the headlamp connector is a standard H4 or sealbeam three prong
connector. These normally come as pigtails, which means the connector or
socket includes approximately 6" of wire with the terminals already
crimped on inside.
-
Splice into the factory headlamp and t-signal/park lamp
wires to attach the new connectors and sockets. This way you would have
both types of connector and socket ends available should you ever want to
go back to stock. The positioning bulb sockets should be spliced directly
into the parking lamp socket such that they illuminate with the park lamps.
-
Remove the phillips screw attaching the side marker and cornering lamp
housing. Pull the housing forward to remove it from the car. Unplug the
bulb sockets by twisting them counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Set the housing
to the side.
-
Remove the 4 10mm screws holding the headlamp capsule bracket to the
vehicle. Pull the capsule forward and disconnect the headlamp connectors
and turn signal park lamp bulb sockets. Remove the capsule and set it
aside.
-
Locate the 9004 style headlamp bulb connector you just unplugged. It
is a 3-pin female connector with Light Green, Tan, and Black wires running
to it. Splice the new 3-pin H4 bulb connector maintaining the same color
coded wire positions.
Using a razor blade or wire
stripper, scribe a cut in the insulation where the splice will be placed.
This cut should go through the insulation completely around the wire, but
do not cut the wire itself. Scribe another similar cut 1/4" away from the
first one. Slit the insulation between the cuts and peel the section away.
You should now have an undamaged source wire with approximately 1/4" of
insulation missing from a section. Strip the end of the new wire to be
spliced to the source wire. Wrap it around the bared portion of the source
wire. Solder the splice junction. Tape the splice thoroughly with
electrical tape to insure a weathertight seal.
This method leaves the original wire undamaged and allows the best
possible connection with low resistance and high physical strength. Under
no circumstances should you use "quick tap" or "Scotch-Lok" type crimp on
splice connectors. These will corrode and leave you with an unreliable
high resistance connection that will cause problems in the future.
Headlamp bulb female connector pinouts:
H4 Connector 9004 Connector
Tan Tan
-- --
| | -- --
Lt Grn Blk Lt Grn Blk
Tan = Low Beam
Lt. Green = High Beam
Black = Ground
Many of the generic pigtail connectors will just have three black wires,
so in that case just match the position of the terminals as shown with the
correct signals.
-
An alternative method is to purchase the correct connectors and do the
splice further into the wire harness. GM
lists the opposite end as a male weather pack connector #12030291 ($6.25 list)
and the terminal end with the rubber seals are #12355107 ($1.70 list ea.)
With these you can make the splice farther in the harness (less noticeable)
and if you ever need to remove the assembly you can now just disconnect
instead of cutting again.
-
After wiring up the new connectors and taping all splices, I recommend
sealing the original 9004 connectors with black duct tape to protect them
from the elements. This will prevent them from corroding should you ever
wish to re-install the original lamps.
-
Locate the Turn Signal/Parking lamp sockets. Splice the new sockets to
the existing wires, following the standard color coding and pinouts.
Turn Signal / Park Lamp Connector Pinouts
| Circuit | LH Signal/Park | RH Signal/Park | Generic |
| Turn | Light Blue | Dark Blue | Yellow |
| Park | Gray/Black | Gray/Black | Brown |
| Ground | Black | Black | Black |
The color coding on the generic replacement socket usually differs from
the factory sockets. Note that the factory sockets use a slightly
different colored turn signal wire on the LH and RH sockets. If you are
using the generic replacement socket, then just splice the (light or dark)
blue wire to the yellow, gray/black to brown, and black to black.
-
Solder and tape the turn signal splices on each side, but do not solder
and tape the parking and ground splices just yet. You will be adding the
positioning lamp to this circuit.
-
Remove the positioning bulb harness section from the new T84 lamps and
cut off the connector end. Splice the wire ends of the positioning bulb
socket to the parking lamp circuit on each side. Splice the gray
to the gray/black and brown to black. Now
solder and tape the splices on each side. Remove the #2057NA bulb from the
original socket and install it in the new socket. Tape
up the original turn signal/parking lamp sockets with black duct tape to
seal them from the elements.
-
Take the new T84 capsules and locate the angled portion of the plastic
bracket which would be behind the cornering lamp socket once installed.
Use the 2.5" hole saw and cut a 2.5" diameter hole in the bracket centered
in this angled portion. This will allow the wire and socket for the
cornering lamp to pass through the T84 brackets. Export cars did not get
cornering lamps, hence they did not have clearance for the socket.
-
Remove the blue silicone cap from the 3w #158 GM wedge bulbs, and
reinstall the cap on the 5w positioning bulbs removed from the T84 lamps.
-
The T84 lamps will not have the upper part of the lens under the hood
area painted black like on the Impala SS lamps. Cover the top edge of
the T84 lamps with black plastic trim tape and cut it with an Exacto knife
to match the appearance of the US Impala lamps.
-
Using the original US lamps as a guide, apply black trim tape to the top
edge of the T85 lenses, and trim the tape with a razor or knife to mimic
the black painted section on the US lenses.
First apply the blackout tape, and then apply masking tape on top of
this along the edge you wish to trim. Using the masking tape edge as a
guide, use an Exacto knife to cut the tape in a smooth curved line even
with the front of the lens. After pulling off the excess tape, this leaves
only a portion on the top of the lens similar to the black painted portion
on the US lens.
-
Install the new T84 capsules. If you are installing 80/100 high output
bulbs, now is the time to put them in. Then connect the new H4 connector
to the headlamp bulb, screw in the new turn signal/parking lamp socket
with bulb, and insert the positioning lamp socket and bulb. Before
mounting the lamps turn on the headlights and test to see that both low
and high beams, as well as the parking and turn signal lamps work
properly. The positioning lamps should come on with the parking lights.
-
If everything is working properly, then mount the T84 capsules and
reinstall the 4 10mm screws you removed earlier.
-
Install the original cornering lamp/side marker housings. First plug
in the sockets with bulbs, and then install the housing and secure with
the phillips screw you removed earlier.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Provides a handy way to signal traffic that you are in a hurry. Also looks
cool at car shows. Adds that special touch of SEO blood to your Impala SS!
Disadvantages
Most likely illegal in your state. Consult your local authorities.
Do not use a solid red (forward facing) light while engaging
wigwags. This is know as a "take down" light and is the sign from
police to motorists to pull over for a traffic stop. Use of this
combination (wigwags and take down light) can definately result in
felony arrest for impersonating a peace officer. Don't say I didn't
warn you! The rule of the road is "When you see red, pull over". SO
don't use the red, please!
Parts Required:
- Gall's (1-800-477-7766) model FS-025 standard wig-wag flasher
(about $20)
- Miscellaneous electrical butt connectors
- Wire cutters
- Electrical butt connector crimpers
- Wire loom (black) - 1/2 inch (about 5 to 6 feet)
- (Optional) +12V DC light probe
-
First of all, the instructions that come with it are very easy to
understand. Follow the diagram. It basically tells
you to cut the stock high-beam circuit in two places: one before the
headlamps, and the other in between the headlamps.
-
You then connect the provided wires (a total of five) and
essentially have two circuits (the original high beams and the wig-wag
circuit). You still retain your stock high beam function but when the
wigwag switch is engaged, the wig-wags take over and cancel your base
high beam circuit and start alternating the highbeams. If your lows were
on, they stay on. The low beam circuit is not affected at all.
-
The correct wire in the stock highbeam circuit to cut is the smaller
light green wire. Just follow the wiring harness that comes through the
firewall just beneath the brake master cylinder.
-
Make the first cut right next to the washer fluid reservoir. At
cut #1, two of the wires from the wigwag harness will connect to the
light green wire that goes back into the firewall while another one
connects to the light green wire that goes to the dirver side headlamp.
-
Make the second cut in front of the radiator between the headlamps
(behind and to the right of the hood latch). At cut #2, the fourth wire
on the wigwag harness connects to the light green wire that goes to the
passenger side headlamp. Also at cut #2, the light green wire that
comes from the driver side headlamp (going to the 2nd cut) is taped off
and left dormant.
-
You can use the stock Gall's switch box that comes with the unit or
you can disassemble it and mount the contents elsewhere. The control box
comes with four components: a light, a relay, which is inside the box, a
dual pole switch, and a fuse housing. If you don't want to use the
light, simply cut it off and tape the ends up.
-
Run the wigwag wiring harness through the firewall alongside the
hood release cable. Use black wire loom to hide the wires and make the
appearance factory-looking.
-
Be careful as these flashers are illegal in some states. I am not
responsible for anything and all disclaimers apply! Contact me for any
other info at BasimSS@ImpalaSS.org.
-
For Basim's installation picture (second to the bottom picture),
check out
http://www.kentconsulting.com/kpauley/impala/basimss.htm
on Ken Pauley's website. (the link may change and Ken will notify the
list).
Back to the index...
Advantages
These sway bars will make your Impala feel much more stable and corner
incredibly flat. The Impala
will feel like it lost 1,000 lbs with these bars installed, and the
cornering limits will be beyond what you ever could expect for a vehicle
this large.
Herb Adams is the original designer and engineer of the '69 Pontiac Trans
Am, and he also did the '73-'74 455 Super Duty Trans Ams as well. He quit
Pontiac around '74 seemingly over the bean counter and government related
politics that hamstrung the whole Super Duty project. You can get the Herb Adams swaybars either direct from Herb
Adams VSE (their number is 408-649-8423, tell them I sent you!) or from
Summit racing, however a better version of the front bar is only available
from Herb Adams VSE directly.
Disadvantages
Herb Adams' current focus is
racing cars, and most of his products are of the "some assembly required"
type. Be prepared for some work, improvisation, and fabrication.
Parts Required:
-
Front Bar:
-
(1) Herb Adams Front Bar (with Tie Rod Ends - 33mm)
-
(2) Replacement Bushings
-
GM PN 14094388 (34mm)
-
GM PN 10288551 (32mm) Recommended/easier fit
-
(4) Replacement Bolts (non-stripped)
-
Totally Stainless PN 1-1273
-
GM M10x1.5x25mm PN 15959689
-
(4) Replacement 1/8" Washers
-
(4) Nuts (just in case you strip the frame threads)
-
Totally Stainless PN ???
-
GM PN ???
-
Rear Bar
-
(1) Herb Adams Rear Bar
-
(4) Replacement Bolts (cars without newer style
trailing arms)
-
Totally Stainless PN 2-0852
-
GM M10x1.5x110mm PN
-
(4) Replacement Bolts (cars with newer style trailing arms)
-
Totally Stainless PN
-
GM M10x1.5-120mm PN 11508196 (changed to 11504610?)
-
(4) Replacement 1/8" Washers
-
(4) Replacement Nuts (prevailing torque)
-
Totally Stainless PN
-
GM PN 10255857 (Changed to 11502812?)
You can get the rear bar from Summit racing (216-630-0200) under the Herb
Adams/Moroso name, part number MOR-86516 ('77-up B-car, cost $166.69).
They also carry the front bar under part number MOR-86015, however they
only carry the bar with heim joint end links. These end links will rapidly
wear out and rattle, and they are very expensive to
replace. Instead, if you purchase this bar from Herb Adams VSE directly
you can get the bar modified for tie-rod end links (included). The tie-rod
end links are even stronger than the heim joints, and they are greasable
and do not wear out.
DO NOT order the front bar through Summit as you will only
get the version with heim joint end links that wear out rapidly and once
they wear, they start to rattle. Replacing them is almost as expensive as
purchasing the whole bar. Instead you should get the front bar direct from
VSE modified for tierod end links, and it is only sold that way through
VSE directly. The bar has to have different ends welded on to accept the
vastly superior (greasable) tierod links. Contact Herb Adams directly
at 408-649-8423. The front bar with the tie-rod end links is around $320.
You have to consider that the Herb Adams bars
come with no attaching hardware, and there are really no instructions to
speak of, so you are on your own. If you need instructions, use the
factory service manual or the information I am giving here as a guide,
since these bars install in the same manner as the factory bars. The big
difference is that you CANNOT re-use the stock mounting hardware, or at
least you SHOULD not. Here is what I recommend:
-
To install the Herb Adams front bar (33mm) you absolutely CANNOT re-use the
stock rubber bushings. These are designed for only a 30mm bar, and simply
will not fit around the 33mm bar. I don't recommend using polyurethane
aftermarket bushings either (such as supplied by Herb Adams in their
optional installation kit), as in my experiences the bar will abrade the
inner hole, wearing it oversize until the bar begins rattling around inside
the hard urethane bushings. Hard urethane bushings also tend to squeak a
lot, unless you are constantly lubricating them.
Instead I would recommend a factory replacement bushing from another GM
application. The stock bushings feature a 30mm hole, are made of soft
rubber, and have no fiberglass liner where the bar runs through them. I
recommend you replace these with factory 32mm or 33mm High Durometer (hard
rubber) bushings that have fiberglass liners. The liners prevent wear and
totally eliminate noise as the bar rotates in the bushings. These are
available under GM part number 14094388 (34mm) or 10288551 (32mm).
The 34mm bushings have exactly the same external dimensions as the
original 30mm soft rubber bushings used in the Impala, however I have
found that because of their high durometer (hard) rubber construction,
they are sometimes difficult to compress in the stock Impala clamps. If
you find this to be the case, then I recommend you use the smaller 32mm
bushings. The smaller bushings will still fit around the bar, although a
bit more tightly, and their smaller external dimensions will also fit
inside the stock clamps a little easier. Either of these seem to be tailor
made for installing the Herb Adams 33mm front bar in the Impala! These
bushings are from the F-car parts catalog, by the way. The 34mm bushing is
from an '85-'92 F-car, while the 32mm bushing is from a '93+ F-car with
the special 1LE suspension (pn #10288551).
-
Now, on to the brackets and bolts. The bushings I just listed have the
same basic form factor of the stock bushings (except the larger hole for
the larger bar), so the stock brackets can be used. The bolts, however
should be changed. The original bolts are a metric M10x1.5 30mm prevailing
torque bolt. I do not like these bolts at all and absolutely will not
re-use them. The problem is the prevailing torque feature means they have
distorted threads that will strip the threads in the frame if installed
more than once, as well as making it very difficult to "feel" how tight
they are when you are installing them, causing you to easily strip the
threads. I recommend replacing the stock bolts with non-prevailing torque
bolts of the same size. These will tighten much more easily, and you will
know when they are getting too tight.
-
If your stock threads are not stripped, then I recommend an M10x1.5 25mm or
30mm standard (non-prevailing torque) thread bolt with a small internal hex
cap head. The small cap heads will easily clear the bracket, and you can
use a large (8mm) allen key or allen hex tool to tighten them. Conventional
hex head bolts do not leave enough room against the bracket to work
properly, and you cannot get a wrench or even a thin wall socket on them
easily.
The absolute best bolt for the job I have found is available from a
company called Totally Stainless (800-767-4781). Their motto is "In
Stainless we Trust, In Chrome we RUST!". They specialize in nothing but
stainless steel fasteners, and have an excellent catalog that every car
crafter should have. They have high strength M10x1.5 25mm bolts with hex
socket cap heads in pure stainless steel which will never rust or corrode,
and which do not feature the distorted threads of the stock bolts. They
are available under part number 1-1273 (4 are required). Use locktite 242
(blue) to prevent them from loosening, and to act as a lubricant when they
are being installed. These are what I recommend if you have not stripped
your stock threads. Tell Totally Stainless I sent you!
-
If you strip the threads in the frame, you will have to either get an
M10x1.5 nut (also available from Totally Stainless) on the inside of the
frame rail (which is very easy to do on the RH side, but difficult on the
LH side), or install a "nutsert" type fastener. Nutserts are special nuts
that are installed through the frame holes, and then a special tool
(included when you buy them) is used to crush them against the inside of
the frame rail, where they will stay. Then you can use a conventional bolt
to tighten the bracket. In most cases, installing the nutsert will require
that you drill the frame holes out to a larger dimension, but in the end
you have a much stronger set of threads than the stock setup.
-
If you are using the nutsert approach, then I recommend a hex cap head bolt
in whatever size is required by the nutsert threads. A 3/8 version would be
the closest to the factory metric size and would fit the best. The bolt
should be a 3/8" diameter by about 1-1/4" long, and should feature the
small internal hex cap head.
-
For the rear bar, the stock 7/16" by about 1-5/16" long bolts are clearly
inappropriate. They feature only 1-1/4" of thread length after the 1/8"
thick washer is installed, and the Herb Adams rear bar is 1" thick at the
attachment points. This leaves only about 1/4" of thread to engage the nut
in the control arm bracket (absolutely not enough!). Instead I recommend
you use a longer bolt with the same 7/16" diameter as the stock one.
Absolutely the BEST bolt for the rear bars are the ARP Grade 8 stainless
steel bolts. These are available in a 7/16" diameter by 2-3/16" long
version, that leaves over 2" of thread after the 1/8" thick washers are
installed. These are also available from Totally Stainless as part number
2-0852 (4 are required). These bolts are absolutely a work of art, in fact
they are aerospace quality and just beautiful to look at. I have extra ones
in stock just so I can occasionally pick them up and admire them, but then
I am not normal!
Here are some installation tips for installing the Herb Adams swaybars,
compiled from various sources.
Herb Adams Front Bar Installation Tips
-
Make sure you have the bar oriented the correct way, the tabs
should be pointing UP, not down.
-
Get two floor jacks:
-
Use the one to hold the bar up firmly against the underside
of the car be centering the bar on the jack and raising it
until it is firm against the frame.
-
Use the second jack to compress the brackets onto the bushings.
-
The Herb Adams front bar torque specs:
-
Frame bushing bolts... 35 Ft/Lbs
-
Control arm mounting blocks... 80 ft/lbs
-
Stover nuts (castle nuts) that go on the tie rod ends...just
put a box end wrench on them and tighten them up
-
Front Bolts, Bushings and Clamp preference order:
-
RIVNUTS(Stainless bolts), 32mm Bushing, HA Clamp
-
Stainless Bolts, 32mm Bushing, Stock Clamp
-
Stainless Bolts, HA Bushing, HA Clamp
-
HA front Bolts, HA Bushing, HA Clamp
As a quick work around you can try to get M10x1.5 nuts
behind those holes if one of them becomes stripped.
You can not reuse the stock bushings.
The F-car 1LE 32mm bushings are p/n 10288551.
-
It is recommended to use Liquid Wrench on the bolts to the frame
and control arms to help prevent them from being stripped.
-
Put the bushings on the bar and squeeze the clamps on with the vice,
this spreads the clamp out a little at the base, which in turn widens
the distance between the holes. Then squeezed the clamp on the sides
to narrow that distance back to where it should be. When the bar is in
place, the holes should line up perfectly, hence no striping of
the threads. Using a floor jack with a block of wood, press the clamps
on and install them relatively easy.
-
Sometimes there might still be about 1/8" space when fully tightened.
Shim the gap between frame and clamp with 1/8" thick washers and
Loctite Blue.
-
An alternative method is to take a Dremel tool with a coarse
sanding drum and carve out the rubber so that the bushing will fit into the
clamps. Cut a semi-circular cross section groove that goes around
the bushing. It probably makes the bushings a bit stiffer, but
that's rarely considered a problem. :-) The bushings then sit in the clamps
and protruded just a bit just like stock clamps and bushings. No
jacks needed, just put them in place and bolt them down.
-
Install steering stops p/n 10225366 RH and p/n 10225365 LH or just
bend the stock steering stops to avoid the tires from hitting the bar.
Herb Adams Tie Rod End Link Installation Tips
-
It seems that the tapered holes in the front bar and the lower mounting
blocks are not quite deep enough for the tie rod ends to protrude enough
to allow the cotter pin to be installed through the castle nut.
The only option is to ream the hole with tapering bit.
-
Tie rod ends:
The tie rods are adjustable... where should they be set?
For normal city driving the car should be set up neutral.
-
Make sure that the mounting blocks are angled to be somewhat
parallel to the end of the sway bar (as per Matt Adams).
-
Align mounting blocks so tie rod ends clear the car's frame when the
suspension moves up and down. If it doesn't, it may get dinged when
the upper control arm compresses on the rubber bump stop.
-
Mounting blocks should be positioned straight (mounting holes will
line up straight across the car).
-
Adjust one set of tie rod ends so there is about 1/4- 1/2" of
threads showing and install...just use box end wrench and tighten
then up. Do not torque to 90 ft/lbs. Loctite is a good idea.
-
Assemble the other set, but just install the lower tie rod end,
position it near the sway bar, but out of the way, install tires and
let the car down. While the car is at full rest, adjust the other
end so it will fit easily into the swaybar. This procedure
(adjusting tie rod length on the ground) is as not pre-load the
suspension.
-
Start the nut then jack up the car and remove the tire to finish
tightening the nut. Do not tighten both nuts with the wheels off the
ground.
-
Tighten the Castle nuts with a wrench, tight, and then install the
"Mr Cotter" pin. Make sure you leave about 1/4 to 1/2 of the threads
showing on the Ball joint bolt (Ball joint to Ball joint Bolt). Make
sure you line up the grease nipples either facing the front or rear of
the car and not to the sides of the car due to the danger of knocking
them off if it hits frame of car. Very important: Grease fittings just
screw them in, no tapping necessary use a 5/16" box wrench.
Herb Adams Rear Bar Installation Instructions
-
With Hotchkis lower trailing arms mount with FLAT SIDE UP toward the
Hotchkis lower trailing arms.
With stock lower trailing arms mount with Flat Side DOWN.
-
The rear bar requires bolts to be torqued to 55 lbs as per Herb Adams
instructions and 35 ft/lbs as per the Hotchkis lower trailing arm
instructions. At 45 ft/lbs the bolt felt like it would snap.
At this time the true torque spec has not been finalized.
Just approximate!!
-
Use stock 8 sided washer, one or two for each side, between the Herb
Adams bar and the control arm to fill this space. This lowers the bar
about 1/8" and provides clearance between the bar and the control arm.
Also, since the holes in the HA bar are quite large, pay particular
attention to centering it before you tighten the bolts.
-
The Totally Stainless bolts are a little long and at time it is
possible to bottom out on the threads. You will need a couple
of 7/16 flat washers and Loctite or a lock washer or both for the
later style lower control arm.
If there is a problem with these bars, it is the lack of included hardware
and poor to nonexistent installation instructions. Hopefully the
information I have provided here will help those of you who are considering
these bars.
Back to the index...
Advantages
The 9C1 springs are firmer than the original springs in the Impala. They
are also a little higher, which gives the car a somewhat "raked" look.
Disadvantages
Some may not like the "raked" look, and the stiffer ride might not appeal
to some.
Parts Required:
- 9C1 Rear Springs. See the
FAQ for a discussion on spring part numbers and rates.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Jack up the rear of the car.
- Place jackstands just forward of the spot where the rear
control arms attach to the frame. Use good-quality jack
stands. This is a really heavy car!
- Remove both rear wheels.
- Remove the lower retaining nut and washer from both rear shocks.
- Place your jack under the differential and slowly raise it
until you are able to push both shocks free from their lower
mounts. With a new rust-free car, you should NOT need a
hammer.
- Lower the jack. The rear axle will drop several inches lower
now that the rear shocks are disconnected.
- While pushing down on the rear brake assembly, pull the rear
springs off their pedestal mounts and then remove them from
the car. Don't lose the rubber isolators on the top of the
spring and on the pedestal mount on the lower control arm.
- Some folks claim a handling advantage by leaving off the lower
rubber isolator. You may or may not want to remove them. Put the
upper isolator on the top of the new spring and push the spring
up against its upper mounting point.
- You may need the help of an assistant for this step. The new
springs are slightly taller and stiffer and do not go in as
easily as the old ones came out. While you push down on the
rear brake assembly with all your might, have your assistant
slide the bottom of the new spring over the spring perch.
- If you have troubles, you may try
bolting a hub puller to the wheel studs and push
down on it with your foot while folding onto the fender well.
This will provide you with the extra leverage so that
your assistant can slip the spring over the perch and into place.
- Place the jack under the differential and raise the axle
assembly enough so that the lower shock bolts line up with
the mounting tabs. Reattach shocks.
- Put everything back together and enjoy!
Back to the index...
Advantages
Offers an added level of security by preventing current from being applied to
the fuel pump unless a hidden switch is pressed.
Disadvantages
Mostly just the inconvenience of pushing the button.
Parts Required:
- 15A, 30VDC DPDT relay, Radio Shack part number 275-218c, or equivalent. The
relay should be able to handle 6 amps or so at 12VDC.
- There is a matching socket: Radio Shack part number 275-220.
- Misc electrical connectors and wire.
Procedure (from
Steve Das
):
- Fabricate a bracket for the
socket and mounted it behind the glove box, on the upper right corner of the
AC plenum. There is a hole already there and the bracket should bolt right to
that hole. This position is close to the fuel pump wire (which runs behind the
right kick panel just below this location) and is very accessible.
Mounting the relay here resulted in very short wires to the fuel pump wire.
- Before starting this modification, pull
the Air Bag fuse and separate the TWO yellow Air Bag connectors under the
steering column just to be safe.
- Locating the fuel pump wire: There is a large, black connector
behind the right kick panel. The connector you are looking for is "bolted
together". It has a bolt running through it to hold it together. The wire
you want is a large gray wire in the center of the connector. Rather than
try to describe it. The numbers on the connector are duplicated and make
no sense, locate it with a test light. The wire you are looking for has 12
volts applied for 2 seconds when you turn the key on but don't start the
engine. Once the wire has been located, you are ready to start.
- You can either cut this wire or pull it from the connector. I cut mine.
The wire from the engine compartment will have 12 volts on it as described
above. The other wire will now be dead.
- Layout of Radio Shack # 275-218c Relay terminals:
- Normally closed fixed contact #1
- Normally closed fixed contact #2
- Normally open fixed contact #1
- Normally open fixed contact #2
- Movable contact #1
- Movable contact #2
- Relay Coil
- Using wire of sufficient size for
the current required, connect the wire from the engine compartment to pins 3
& 4 (normally open stationary contacts) of the relay.
- The wire from the pump (the other cut end) goes to pin 6 (one moving contact).
- Connect a wire from pin 5 (other moving contact) to pin 8 (one side of the coil).
- Connect a wire from pin 7 (other side of the coil) to a good ground: there is a
ground lug just in front of the door opening at the bottom.
- Now determine
where you want to mount the hidden push button switch. It should be some
place not too obvious but easy to get to. Let your imagination be your
guide.
- Run wires from the Normally Open contacts on the push button switch
to pins 3 & 8 on the relay.
- In addition, you can put a hidden toggle switch (a
"valet switch") across pins 4 & 6 of the relay. This allows you
to defeat the relay should you need to leave the car with a parking
attendant, take it in for service, or drive it if the relay fails.
- Keep in mind that the wires you splice to the fuel pump wire must be
large enough to carry the fuel pump current of about 6 amps. If you use a
hidden toggle switch as a "valet switch", those wires as well must be large
enough for 6 amps. If you wire this correctly, the wires to the hidden push
button need only carry relay coil current (about .075 amp) so they can be
smaller. Be sure you know what you are doing with your wire size.
- What all this does is this; when current is supplied to the relay by
turning on the key, and the push button is closed, current flows through the
push button and powers the relay coil. The relay closes and one set of the
relay contacts supplies current to the pump and the other set supplies
current to the relay coil, holding the relay closed. When the current
disappears as a result of shutting off the engine, the relay opens and
current is prevented from getting to the pump until the cycle is repeated.
- Remember that there is a switch in the oil pressure switch that
supplies current to the pump as well (in the event that the fuel pump relay
under the hood fails) but that connection is ahead of this point so this
system still works.
I hope this hasn't been too confusing. I can, of course, assume no
responsibility for your installation but if you are careful with your
wiring, insulate everything, use heat shrink tubing on your wire splices
etc., you should have no trouble. It's a good feeling knowing that I have
added another level of security between my Impala and the bad guys. I will
be glad to help anybody with questions.
Back to the index...
Advantages
The remote keyless entry in the Impala SS (and Caprice) is missing several
features that are found on other GM cars, including the Caprice's sister, the
Buick Roadmaster. These features are:
- The dome/courtesy lights coming on for 30 secs after the remote's unlock
is pressed, and 3 seconds after lock is pressed.
- Automatic door lock when shifted out of park and unlock when shifted back
into park. The unlock function is optional by a special programming
sequence.
- Re-locking of the doors if any door is opened then closed while
out of park and while the brake petal is depressed for picking up or
dropping off passengers.
Also, you can extend the range of the remotes by installing a better antenna
for the RCDLR module.
Disadvantages
You may not like the auto-unlock, but it can be disabled. Running the
wires and performing the modifications for this procedure involves
soldering and some wiring between the trunk and the dash. Note that you
can also use crimp-on connectors in place of the soldering: it is all
personal preference.
Parts Required
- 30A automotive relay (Radio Shack P/N 275-226 will work @ $5.99)
(30A, 12VDC ,66 ohms, 160mA coil)
- Small gauge wire - approx. 12-15'
- Solder gun/iron and solder
- Shrink tubing or plastic electrical tape
- At least 3 6" cable ties
- (Optional) Metri-Pack terminals for the C1 and C2 connectors
from the GM Terminal Repair Kit. The C1 connector uses p/n
12047767, about $.75ea. C2 uses p/n 12077411, about $2.90ea.
- The RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module is located in the
rear package shelf (rear deck).
You'll need to undo the two plastic clips (squeeze and push back through the
holes). You may have to remove the rear package shelf carpet
and padding that is above the RCDLR.
- There are two 8-pin connectors on the RCDLR. C1 is blue, and C2 is bigger
and black. Pin 'E' of C2 goes to ground for 30 seconds after lock or unlock.
'E' is the first empty pin in the second row of 4, closest to the tan wire
(the last wire in the first row).
I didn't have any connector contacts to insert into
the empty 'E' position, so I opened the RCDLR cover and
drilled a small hole
in its side. If you have the correct
Metri-Pack connectors, use them now.
- The male connector inside the RCDLR is a right angle style and
the pin 'E' is easily accessible. I just soldered a wire to it and ran it
out the hole. You can also use the splice / crimp-on connectors here,
if you prefer.
- While I was there, I soldered another wire to the middle of
the antenna loop (stiff bare wire that runs the length of the module above
the circuit board).
- On the outside, I crimped an insulated spade terminal to
this new 'E' contact. This needs to be connected to the ground side of the
Dome/Courtesy light relay in the convenience center that is under the dash on
the driver's side.
- Pin 'C' of C1 currently goes to +12V in when the car is running (run or
start). It is the pink wire next to the light blue wire in the first row of
C1. There are two pink wires in this first row. The one in position 'B' is
also pink and is adjacent to the empty 'A' position. This 'C' wire needs to
be cut and wired from the RCDLR to the Park sensor on the steering column. I
also put a spade crimp terminal on this wire and wrapped up the other side of
the cut to insulate it now that it doesn't connect anywhere. Note that
this ping wire needs to be cut below the wire tap.
- Under the dash, next to the parking break petal is the Convenience Center.
It is anything but convenient to work with. :-( It has several relays and the
hazard and turn signal flashers on it. I unscrewed it with a 6" flexible
shaft driver - same hex nut head as what holds the dash trim up. There are
two screws in deep recessed holes in the center top and center bottom. You
might also want to try a 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension.
- The dome light relay is the left one of the row of three square black relays
between the round metal flashers and the large light green colored module on
top. On the back of the Convenience center, you'll see a dark blue wire
coming from the dome light relay. This gets connected to the RCDLR. I
crimped on an in-line tap to my new piece of wire (just plain 20ga hookup
wire).
- Remount the convenience center module. It was a real pain
working with it, and if I had to do it again, I'd unwrap the wire harness
that leads from the convenience center and look for the dark blue wire and
tap in there. I don't recall another one of that exact color (there is a
dark-blue-with-white-stripe which goes to the opposite side of the dome
light relay).
- Next to the park position sensor. The park sensor is a switch assembly a few
inches away from where the steering column goes through the firewall. It is
on top of the steering column, and it is the first switch assembly up the
column (from the firewall). On this switch assembly are two light green
wires. The one you want goes to the very right side of the assembly. The
other light green wire goes out of site to the top of the assembly. Its easy
to check with a multimeter and shifting the car in and out of park with the
key in 'RUN' and the engine off. Be sure to set the parking brake!. This
wire goes to +12v in park, and ground in all other gears. I crimped on
another in-line tap and connected some more hookup wire.
- Route both these two wires around the parking brake pedal (following a
factory wire harness) and down along the carpet and into the wire channel to
the rear set area, then up behind the rear seat.
- Crimp on the
corresponding spade terminal and hooked it up to the RCDLR and check its
operation.
- If everything works OK, remount the RCDLR and run your extended antenna wire
(about 2 ft long) though a hole in the rear deck and behind the left rear
quarter window trim. Disable the auto-unlock feature (see below) if
desired.
Steve Das came up with the following changes
for additional functionality:
- If you pull the relay that controls the interior lights, (it's
the one on the left) it is fairly easy to carefully remove the cover of the
relay.
- Drill two 1/16 in. holes in the end of the cover over pin one
(marked on the bottom of the relay) and feed two wires into the cover.
- Cut the conductor going from pin 1 (one) to the feedthrough plate on top of the
relay coil and connect one of the wires to each side of the cut: one to
pin 1 and one to where pin 1 used to connect before you cut the conductor
strap. You will be putting a switch in series with the coil of the relay.
- Now, plug the relay back in and run the wires along the harness to a place
where you can mount a small switch of your choice. The switch now controls
the interior lights; that is to say, you can leave the doors open without
having all the lights blazing inside the car. Very nice if you are sitting
and visiting. In addition, you can connect the wire from the remote control
module to one of these wires at the switch and not have to remove the
convenience center. You can choose how you want the remote to perform: if
you connect the wire from the remote receiver to one of the wires on the
switch, the switch will disable the lights, period. Connected to the
other wire, the remote will still turn the interior lights on regardless of
how the switch is positioned. You can still turn all the interior lights on
regardless of switch position using the rotary wheel switch used to control
the dash light intensity or the individual switches on the reading lamps
will control each lamp just as before the modification.
- If you want to get
really fancy (I did), you can use a double pole double throw, center off
switch and set it up for position one to be "normal", that is, all lights
work just like originally designed including the remote lights on. In the
center position (call it position 2) none of the lights come on in response
to the doors or the remote and in position 3, the doors will not turn on the
lights but the remote will turn them on for 30 seconds upon unlocking the
door(s) and for 3 seconds upon locking the door(s). I like it!
Mark Hawthorne contributed
the following procedure that describes how to add the automatic lock/unlock
features to a '96 car:
- Remove the center console. There are four (4) metric bolts, two
in the console box, two under the rubber insert in the open forward
compartment. NOTE: You must remove the gearshift knob by pulling the
retaining staple out of the front of the knob. A small screwdriver
will help get it started, just pry carefully so you don't mess up the
pseudo-leather covering. This is best accomplished with the gear
shift in "Drive", "2", or "1". (Remember to set the parking brake.)
Leave the shifter in "OD" or "D" and pull the console straight up just
far enough to get your hand up underneath and remove the gearshift
indicator lamp. (1/4 twist counterclockwise and it's out.) Now you
can get the console out of your way.
- The wire which connects to pin "C" on connector C1 of the
RCDLR must be long enough to reach under the center console.
Route the wire under the left side rocker panels, up and over the
steering column, then under the carpet to the shifter. (Feed a
straightened wire coat hanger up under the carpet somewhat
following the path of the shifter cable. Tape the end of the wire to
the hanger and pull it through.) This wire (the electrical wire, not the
coat hanger) will be connected to the normally open post on the
new relay.
- The park sensor switch is on the side of the gearshift lever. There
six (6) wires in the connector on this switch; black w/ white stripe [A],
orange w/black stripe [B], pink [C], light green [D], violet [E], and light
yellow [F]. You will be tapping into the pink and orange w/black
stripe wires. The pink is +12 volts, and the orange w/black stripe goes
to ground when the shifter is in gear. The switch may be removed for
easier access by depressing the retaining tab on the inboard side with a
small screwdriver and pulling the connector out. (I had to pry under
the edge with a small screwdriver to get it started.) Tap into the pink
wire using a quick connect or by stripping the insulation and soldering.
Tap into the orange w/black stripe wire again using one of the
previously mentioned methods. These newly attached taps should be
about 12" in length.
- Connect the pink wire tap to one post on the coil of the relay and the
common post of the relay. (Yes, you are connecting the same wire to
two, count `em - two, posts on the relay. Soldering is best, as is using
heat shrink tubing. Be sure to use the appropriate size of heat shrink
tubing, and slide it onto the wire BEFORE soldering. After the solder
joint has cooled slide the heat shrink over the solder joint and apply heat
to shrink it. A lighter or match works well for this, but DON'T cook it.)
- Connect the orange w/black wire tap to the other post on the coil of
the relay, in the same manner as you did step 4.
- Now, you're ready to test it. With the key turned on, shift from park
to reverse to neutral to drive. The doors should lock in reverse, unlock
in neutral, and lock in drive. Going back through neutral and reverse to
park, the doors should unlock, lock, and unlock, respectively.
- Once the system is verified, use the tie wraps and plastic tape to
secure the wires and the relay someplace out of the way. I just taped mine
to the shifter cable about 2" forward of where it attaches to the shifter
bracket assembly.
- When you're done, reassemble the console in reverse of step 1.
Eric Woster
used the following steps to extend the range of the RCDLR:
Based on a frequency of about 315 Megahertz, a quarter
wave antenna length will be about 240mm or 9.5inches.
You need to make a close coupled loop that matches the
internal antenna loop dimensions with two quarter wave tails on the ends
of the loop. In this way the extra antenna is outside of the RCDLR box.
-
Find a thin piece of stiff cardboard and cut a
rectangle the size of the front surface of the RCDLR.
-
Glue (don't staple) a single 360' loop of braided 20AWG wire to the board with
long ends. The ends should hang off of the cardboard by at least a
foot.
-
Snip the ends of both wires to make them extend from the edge
of the cardboard by 9 to 9.5 inches.
-
After the glue has dried, pull the back of the back seat out, lift
the back package shelf carpet up just a little, and secure the carboard
loop to the front of the RCDLR with tape or double-sided tape, and let the
wire ends hang off at the top. The wire ends can be streched out and
taped down or just held in place by the package shelf.
-
Reassemble.
-
This should nearly triple the range to the rear of the vehicle.
A longer antenna won't help without some fancy ground plane effects and
ugly designs. Running the antenna somewhere else will increase the
antenna length unless a coaxial cable is used.
John Wilson has added a
procedure to make the car "beep" when the door are unlocked.
-
Installing a small Radio Shack piezo buzzer in the door lock relay
circuit will allow you to hear when the door unlock.
If you mount the beeper in the engine compartment, it has a chance at
staying dry while still being audible. It's not very loud but you can
still hear it: they also have a miniature alarm horn that is
quite loud.
-
You must pick which relay to trigger off of.
Since I usually open the left rear door first,
I wired the buzzer to beep when the passenger doors unlock.
For the '96 model, the wire colors from the door lock relay are tan
and gray. The relay is at the left kick panel above and behind the
parking brake bracket, completely behind and out of sight.
-
I wanted to tap in at the relay because I was taking the wires through
the firewall to the engine compartment. If you manage to get the relay
loose the bundle is long enough to allow you to work on the wires.
-
Rather than cut wires, attach spade terminals to the new wires and
just shove them into the connector where the existing wires enter.
You may have to trim the spades to get them to fit, but they will
be nice and snug.
-
Poke the wires for the buzzer through one of the big firewall
grommets.
-
Attached the buzzer to the small brace in the corner of the engine compartment
with a couple of zip ties.
-
If you don't want to mess with the hard-to-reach relay, the wires are
also accessible at each door because they go to the individual door
lock actuators. The wire bundles that go into the rear doors are
behind the lower center-post cover (the B-pillar), where the
front seat belt reels are located. The tan and gray wires are right
out in the open in this area.
-
I stuck straight pins into the wires
and attached the buzzer to test it. If you reverse the wires it
will beep when locking instead of unlocking. This could also be
useful. Perhaps two buzzers, one for lock and one for unlock.
-
The Radio Shack part number is 273-060, about $3. It's about the size of a
half dollar. It is rated at 86db @ 12v but I wish it was a little
louder. I doubt that it is weather proof so durability could also be
an issue.
Programming the RCDLR Module
- Find the programming connector that is hanging off a wire harness on the
upper left side of the trunk, just behind the carpet (about 8-12" from the
rear stop/turn lights). Its a 2-pin male connector with two
black-with-white-stripe wires.
- When you short these two pins together with a
screwdriver, the RCDLR will cycle the lock and trunk solenoids to confirm it
is ready (the trunk release solenoid sounds weird when the trunk is already
open).
- Pressing any key on either remote will program that remote to the
RCDLR. To disable the automatic unlock-in-park feature #(2): after the last
remote is programmed, but before you un-short the programming connector,
press this sequence three (3) times on a remote: lock, unlock, trunk. The
RCDLR will cycle the door locks and trunk release solenoids three times to
confirm at the end of the sequence. Note: I had to try several times, I
don't know if I lost contact on the screwdriver I was holding in my other
hand, or I did it too fast or too slow, but it eventually worked.
- To re-enable the unlock-in-park feature of (2), just repeat the above to
reprogram the RCDLR to your remotes, but don't do the special
three-button-three-times sequence.
Other Possible Modifications:
- I may enable (3) by tapping into the break pedal switch (to RCDLR C1-F
empty) and a door jamb switch (to RCDLR C1-A empty). The RCDLR senses a
voltage drop for the door jamb switches. The non-driver's doors (3) should
all be on the same circuit, so I'd wire to the right rear door (the left
rear door would also work, but its got more wiring harnesses in the way).
- I may put a small piezo beeper on the lock signal wire (C1-D lt blue), and
unlock-driver (C2-E tan) and/or unlock-all signal (C1-E white) so that I
can confirm I locked the car while walking away from it - sometimes the
sound of the door locks themselves are just too faint. And in the daytime,
the dome light cannot be seen. It'll also make it sound like I have an
alarm :-) The RCDLR energizes these lock/unlock signals for less than a
second, so it should produce an appropriate 'chirp' sound.
- I was thinking of buying an aftermarket stick-on windshield radio antenna
($4.99 at Radio Shack) and running it between two of the rear defrost
elements or below the lowest element. That way, it is not shielded by the
rear deck or side panel metal and should perform even better, and still be
stealth even though it is in plain view. :-) Another Idea: Wire RCDLR door
unlock signal to the twilight sentinel. The twilight sentinel will think
the car was on (even if just for that second that the unlock signal had
voltage) and if its night, the headlights will come on (to light your way)
for duration of the twilight sentinel's turn-off delay. Maybe connect
RCDLR C2-D (unlock driver) to Headlamp Automatic Control Module (C1-E -
pink - Ignition sense). See service manual page 8A-101-1 (diagram),
8A-201-18 & -26 (pic).
RCDLR Connector Diagram
C1 (blue)
---------
(buick) Door jamb switches-\white |A H| black/white - to programming connctr
(chev) empty -------------/
ignition sense pink |B G| empty
(buick) park sensor -\_____ pink |C F| /-(buick) stop lamp switch (brake pedal)
(chev) +12v in run -/ \-(chev) empty
Lock lt blue |D E| white unlock-all
C2 (black)
----------
+12v (always) orange |A H| empty
trunk release black |B G| empty
empty |C F| black/white - gnd
unlock-driver tan |D E| /-(buick) drk blue - dome light relay
\-(chev) empty
Pages from 1995 Impala SS/Caprice/Roadmaster service
manual (Helm) of interest:
8A-132-0 RCDLR electrical connections diagram (Note: Dome light
relay drk blue is from C2-E, not C1-E as shown in diagram).
8A-201-24 RCDLR picture (rear shelf), also 9K-26
8A-202-11 RCDLR C1 & C2 A thru H pinout (C1 - pack 150, C2 - pack 280)
8A-201-13 Convenience center picture
8A-201-15 Park sensor assembly picture (steering column), also 8A-201-17
9K-27 location of RCDLR programming connector
9K-27 Programming the RCDLR (see also 9K-2)
9B-3 Stop lamp (brake pedal) switch picture (also page 5-7)
Good luck if you decide to do this mod, and as usual, mod at your
own risk. E-mail me direct (Mike Kerr)
if you would like an
update if I complete feature #3 or do the other enhancements.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Allow you to unlock the door by simply pulling the door handle instead
of having to manually unlock the lock first.
Disadvantages
There may be some security and/or safety concerns by allowing the door
to open from the inside even if it is locked. However, many other cars
do work like this.
Parts Required:
- 6N1 door lock module, P/N 16630059, $ 47.10
- 4 Aluminum rivets, P/N 9442468, about $1.00 (you may want to
get a few extra)
- 6 Door panel retainers, P/N 10161510, about $1.00 (you may want to
get a few extra)
-
Remove the door panel itself. First make sure the power window is all the
way up as you will be removing the switch pod and will not be able to
easily move the window later. You will first have to remove the arm rest
(2 screws), the switch pod (clipped at the front), and the door handle
bezel (one screw). The switch pod can be tense if you have never done it
before. The metal clip is towards the front, which is where you should use
a screwdriver or preferably a plastic pry tool to wedge in and pry inward
and up. Do not pry from the sides or the rear portion of the pod or you
will likely break it. Disconnect all wires and remove the switch pod
itself.
-
There is one screw and 6 door panel retainer clips that must be pried out
of their holes to remove the actual door panel itself. To do this it helps
to have a special door panel clip removal tool. The best one on the market
is the one made by Cal-Van (marked as Cal-Van tool #34) that has a
U-shaped handle and a long forked plastic wedge/ramp. Unlike the metal pry
tools usually sold for removing door panel retainers, the plastic one will
not scratch the paint on the inner metal door structure, which can lead to
rust and corrosion in the future. JC Whitney sells the Cal-Van #34 door
panel retainer tool.
-
With the door panel off, pull back the plastic water shield and remove the
screw holding the rear window channel. This screw is in the lower LH
portion of the door. You don't have to take the channel completely out,
just pull it down and move it forward in the door so it is out of the way
of the lock module. The power window should be up as mentioned earlier.
-
Then remove the lock module and bracket by drilling out the 4 rivets, and
removing the three Torx screws in the door jamb area. When drilling out
the rivets use a drill bit that is about the size of the rivet stud itself
and you should not damage the door at all. The rivets are aluminum, and
drill out quite easily. After the rivets and screws are out, the entire
module and bracket assembly can be moved enough to remove the exterior
lock and door handle rods from the lock module. These are the two rods
that go up to the exterior lock and door handle. The rods are simply
snapped into plastic clips on the module itself, and using a
curved needle nose pliers makes it easy to squeeze the rod end out of the
plastic retainers.
-
At this time the entire lock module and bracket assembly can now be pulled
out of the door. On the bench you can remove the original lock module from
the bracket by unclipping the two internal lock and door handle rods, and
them removing the two screws that hold the module to the bracket.
-
Then install the new 6N1 lock module back on the bracket with the same
screws, and re-attach the lock and door handle rods to the module by
pushing them back into their clips. You can now test the module by locking
it, setting the latch, and then pulling on the inside handle release. When
you pull on the inside handle release, the module will unlock and the
latch should release.
-
Then reverse the previous steps to re-install the lock module and bracket
assembly (using the new rivets you bought). Re-test the
lock and door opening action once the module is installed, as you may have
to bend the rods slightly to get the proper action to occur.
The rods may also contact each other or the
bracket so you may want to bend them slightly to minimize the chance of any future
rattles. Then re-attach the window channel, re-seal the plastic water
shield, and reinstall the door panel itself (using the new retainers you
purchased).
-
With the door panel off, there are several areas you can pad that can
cause rattles. One is the sheet metal itself. What you want to do there is to
purchase some rubber/asphalt sheeting material specifically designed to
sound insulate a car. This stuff goes under different names: one
manufacturer calls it Dynamat. I picked it up from JC Whitney, but most
stereo places will carry it. The stuff comes in different sized sheets
that can be cut to fit virtually any panel, and has peel and stick
adhesive on one side. Fit it and stick it to the
inside of the door panel outer skin.
-
The next area of rattles is the door lock module itself. Occaisonally,
some of the original rivets holding the lock module bracket to the door are
loose, which will caused a rattle in the future. Drill out the
loose rivets and install a new one.
-
Also running from the lock module to the door handle are two metal rods,
which were close to contacting several parts of the door or each other
either with the handle relaxed or pulled. Purchase some velcro tape,
and used the fuzzy side to wrap the rods in two or three places where
contact may occur. Also put this tape on the handle area, where one of
the rods may be near contacting. Finally, some minor bending of the rods
ensures that they will clear everything properly.
-
Another area of potential problems is the window regulator mechanism.
Check this out and made sure everything is tight. Note that
when the window moves up and down it places stress on other parts of the
door, so even though your rattle went away when your window was partially
opened, the rattle could still be caused by the lock mechanism or other
area of the door.
-
Finally, on re-assembling the door, add extra silicone grease to the
door lock module, the door handle, and the clip that the rods slide
through. Stuffed some foam into the door armrest area and under the
switch pod. Add some thin foam pieces behind the wiring
harness connectors and wires to make sure they would not contact the door
metal. This all conspires to make the door THUNK quite solidly now
when it is closed.
Back to the index...
Advantages
The VSS150 is GM's basic alarm system. It will provide added protection for
your car without sacrificing the stock remote locking features.
Disadvantages
It's a bit of work to install the system. You need to cut and splice several
wires, and drill some holes for the siren.
Parts Required:
- VSS150 Alarm Kit, Available from GM Parts, about $100LI>
- Various bits of wire and crimping tools.
Procedure (from
Peter Allendorfer
and
Louis Pascucci
)
:
-
Mount the siren behind the bumper in front of
the left wheel to hide any holes that have to be drilled.
Remove the deflector and bend the plastic
panel out of the way to get at it. Drill out the holes on the siren base
and use the existing bolts sticking down with 10mm
washer-nuts to hold it on.
-
Route the wires over the frame
rail and up beside the anti lock brakes, then run the wires in
the corrugated wire loom to the firewall. Push the
tube/grommet back on the hood release cable and run a
coat hanger wire or stiff piano wire through the tube from
the cabin side to engine side. You may have to unhook
the hood release from the latch to get enough slack to
perform this operation. Don't forget to reconnect the
cable, it's real hard to open the hood without it :P You will
also have to lengthen the wires by about 3 '. Bring the
siren wires into the cabin and route them to the right of the
steering column.
-
Remove the lower dash panel, knee bolster and deflector.
Lower the steering column to disconnect the plugs to the
ignition switch (only one of the 15mm nuts was tight on
my car).
-
Cut the yellow wire about 3-4 inches from the
plug and connect the yellow/red to the plug side and the
yellow wire to the other side. If you want to stay all GM, go to the
dealer and get another connector insert for the plug to the
ignition switch to obtain constant power for the alarm. Otherwise, you can
use a 1/4" AMP flat terminal and insert it through the
empty cavity above the yellow wire in the plug.
-
You also need to
solder the red wire for the siren to the fused side of the
constant power connection. Solder the switched power to
the pink wire in the same plug. The horn wire (black) is in
the long flat connector on the side of the steering column.
Remove the terminal from the "fixed" side of the
connector and soldered the black/green wire to it. The
red/black wire gets a ring connector and goes to ground.
-
Remove the screw at the bottom of the light switch and
pull it out. Remove the connector and extract the brown
wire for the parking lights and solder the dark blue wire to
the terminal and insert it back into the connector. Probe
for constant power at the headlight switch connector and
perform the same operation for the orange/black wire
(#12).
-
You can instal the disarm button in
the top corner of the change box under the light switch. Extend
the wire with the terminal to reach the control module.
While on that side, use an 11mm socket and remove the
door switch. Extend the #3 white wire for the courtesy
light and solder it to the white wire on the door switch.
-
The trickiest bit was deciding that the Impala door lock
system had an internal isolation relay. The actual relay is
up behind the parking brake and cleverly hidden behind
big wire bundles. The long, green wire from the control module
is fastened to the white wire at one
end of the relay. There is a 8 way connector (231) with 4
filled cavities. One of the tan wires will show power
when the remote is pressed the first time, extend and
connect the brown wire to it. The gray wire will show
power when the door is locked with the remote or the door
switch. The blue wire goes to it.
-
The Valet switch/light will fit in the panel for the cigarette
lighter. The bezel diameter is approx. 0.4" If you center a
hole about .25" radially from the edge of the chrome bezel
for the lighter approx. 30 deg. from the bottom, you can
feed the wires through and they will reach to the control
module. That panel is tough to remove without breaking
the spring tabs that hold it in place. Mount the control
module on the deflector bolted around the steering
column. It is covered by the deflector and then concealed
by the lower dash trim panel. The fuses can be pulled
down behind the trim panel when desired. Mount the
shock sensor to the steering column. It seems to be pretty
solidly mounted to the body and should also detect
someone messing with the front wheels.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Increasing the amount of air that can get into the engine allows it
to produce more power at higher RPM's. Modifications to the airbox
area can also introduce cooler air into the engine, which results
in more power.
Disadvantages
Some claim that K&N filters allow too much dirt through to a street
engine, resulting in unnecessary wear. Some "cold air" intakes, which
relocate the filter below the fenderwell and behind the bumper, put the
air filter in an area where it could get wet or draw water into the engine.
Method 1: K&N Filter and Opened-Up Air Box
This method installs a stock-sized K&N filter in the stock
airbox. The airbox has additional holes cut in it to allow
more air to flow into the filter. This method is recommended
for those who want to retain a stock looing engine compartment
or those who don't want to use a K&N filter (you can also
use the stock filter with the opened up box).
Parts Required:
- A K&N Filter for the Impala SS (stock size). K&N P/N 33-2057 $50.
- Remove the air filter housing lid and the air filter.
-
- Remove the bottom of the air filter box.
- Using a hole saw and a compass, scribe and cut cut six
1-1/4" holes along the back side and four 1-3/4"
holes along the fender side, as well as one 1-1/2" hole on the front side
to the left of the existing oval inlet.
- Blend the holes on the fender side with a file, so that it looks like a 4"
by 1-3/4" oval hole there.
- Reinstall the parts using the K&N filter, if desired, or the stock filter.
Method 2: K&N Cone Filter
This method bypasses the stock Impala airbox and leaves it intact.
It allows plenty of air into the engine from all sides, not just the
small rectangular slit that the stock air box has. This method also
probably allows more air into the engine than the
modified air box. This method is
recommended for those who want high flow and don't mind a non-stock
appearance.
Parts Required:
- A conical K&N air filter. K&N P/N RE-0920. About $40.
- A "breather" type filter for the AIR tube that connects to the
stock air box. Purolator P/N 13103(or one
similar that fits (I.D. of the hose is 3/4")). K&N
also makes several of them: 62-1030 (2"w x 1.5"h, rubber top),
62-1160 (3"w x 2"h, chrome top), and 62-1070 (3"w x 2"h, rubber
top). They also make a clamp on unit (62-1360, 2"w x 1.5"h)
that will clamp right on to the AIR pump and get rid of the
hose completely. About $20 for any of them.
- A pipe clamp that fits the top of the K&N. $1.
- Remove the air filter housing lid and the air filter.
- Remove the air filter housing lid from the MAF (mass airflow sensor).
Be careful not to damage
the MAF as you remove it, and be sure to mark or remember the correct
direction of the MAF.
- Connect the K&N to the MAF using the pipe clamp. It fits inside
the adapter with a little silicon spray. You should not need any hose to
connect the K&N, but a little tape around the end of the MAF will
allow you to clamp it down without cranking on the clamp as much.
The filter goes all the way to the fender and rests on the computer box.
- Connect the breather to the AIR tube and hide it somewhere up underneath
the conical filter. If you get the female version, you can connect it
directly to the air pump and get rid of the hose entirely.
Method 3: Aftermarket Air Intake Systems
Aftermarket air intake systems, along with
eliminating the rectangular baffle,
usually either place a K&N cone on the
end of the MAF, or relocate a K&N cone filter underneath the
fenderwell. By relocating the filter, the air intake can draw
in cooler air from outside of the engine compartment.
Parts Required:
- Aftermarket Air Intake Kit. $200 - $350.
Procedure (will vary, for an example only):
- Remove air box lid, air filter, and air box base.
- Drill a 3.5" hole through the fenderwell to a box behind
the fender.
- Install a special bracket to hold the computer and to form
a passageway through the hole to the area between the
fender and the plastic splash guard in the wheelwell.
- Relocate compute to top of wheelwell (using bracket).
- Remove the splash guard from the wheelwell (on the outside
of the car).
- Install the K&N cone filter to underside of the bracket.
- Connect a special elbow between the MAF and the new bracket.
The new elbow should have a fitting for the AIR hose.
- Reinstall the plastic splash guard in the wheelwell
Back to the index...
Advantages
Removing the "home plate" baffle on the top of the engine not only
make the engine look better, but also allows more heat to escape
from the engine and reduces turbulance in the intake air stream,
providing more power. Removing the baffle prevents chafing of the
wires underneath it, possibly saving the cost of a new wire harness.
Disadvantages
The baffle is meant to reduce full-throttle noise. You may experience
a "howling" at full throttle.
Method 1: Baffle Bypass
This method bypasses the baffle but does not remove it. Total cost is
about $3. This method is recommended if you want to keep the engine
looking stock and don't want to spend much money.
Parts Required:
- A paint can lid. Free.
- Duct tape. $1.
Procedure (from High Performance
Chevrolet, January, 1996):
- Loosen and remove the two nuts on top of the "home plate" baffle.
They are 13mm.
- Loosen the clamp that connects the baffle to the intake elbow
just in front of the throttle body.
- Pull up on the baffle and remove it. You may have to "wiggle" it to
remove it. Leave the clamp in place.
- Wrap the paint can lid in duct tape until it can be firmly
wedged inside of the opening on the baffle. The flat part of the
lid should be flush with the bottom lip of the opening.
- Reinstall the baffle.
Method 2: Plugging the Stock Elbow
This method totally removes the baffle. The hole in the intake
elbow is plugged with a pipe cap. Total cost is about $5. The end
result looks fairly OEM. This method is recommended if you want the
functional benefits of removing the baffle and plugging the elbow,
but want to keep costs down. Note that the Callaway air intake system
includes hardware to do this, but none of the other aftermarket air
intake systems do.
IMPORTANT: Use of the red Oatey test plug has been
strongly discouraged! Several members have had them disintegrate
under the extreme heat stress in the engine. This can allow unfiltered
air to enter the engine post-MAF, causing a lean condition, along with
severe damage from ingesting parts of the plug itself. If you are using
the test plug (plastic, with a wing nut on top), discontinue use now.
Note that Oatey also makes a metal test plug: this plug can be inserted
without fear of disintegration.
Also note that you need to be sure that the insert that you are
using makes a good seal. Plugs with threads will eventually cut into the
elbow (accelerated by the high heat), and will cause an air leak.
Parts Required:
- A 3" aluminum pipe knockout or "tee" cap. These are
available at hardware stores or some of the home mega-stores. A
Nestea cap also fits pretty well. You could also try to find a
3" O.D. chrome center cap in the chrome accessories section of your
local parts store (Grant Products P/N 5894: Classic Horn Button). The
chrome piece looks good with the
Razzor pipe. Other options range from
mayonnaise lids to custom milled aluminum to hockey pucks. You
get the idea... About $5.
- A optional can of flat black paint to paint the cap. The engine
looks more OEM if the cap is painted. $2.
- Paint the cap with the flat black paint, if desired.
- Loosen and remove the two nuts on top of the "home plate" baffle.
They are 13mm.
- Loosen the pipe clamp that connects the baffle to the intake elbow
just before the throttle body.
- Pull up on the baffle and remove it. You may have to "wiggle" it to
remove it. Leave the host clamp in place.
- Insert the cap into the hole. It should fit perfectly and should extend
far enough into the hole for the clamp to hold it in place.
- Tighten the clamp.
- Remove the two "towers" that used to hold the baffle in place. Unbolt
them from the black bracket that crosses the intake manifold by using a
6mm socket or a wrench on the top of them.
Method 3: Replacing the Stock Elbow with the F-Body 1LE Elbow
This method totally removes the baffle and replaces the stock elbow
with the larger Camaro 1LE (non-airconditioned) intake elbow.
The 1LE elbow doesn't have
the hole in top like the Impala does, and doesn't have the hole in the
bottom like the air-conditioned Camaros and Firebirds have. The '94
elbow has no provision for the vent tube from the OptiSpark distributor,
while the
'95 has a connector in the top for it. The '94 can be modified to accept
the vent hose by puncturing it on the bottom. The Camaro elbow is wider
than the Impala elbow and can thus flow more air. They are slightly
expensive since they include the MAT sensor. This method is recommended
for those looking for maximum flow into their engines and are willing to
pay the price to keep only GM parts in the engine.
Parts Required:
- A '94 or '95 non-air conditioned 1LE intake elbow. The list price
is $80-$90 (the '94's are cheaper), but some dealers sell them
for as much as $150. P/N 25147210 is the '94 1LE w/o vent nipple
($95.63 retail) and P/N 25147187 is the '95 1LE w/ vent nipple
($155 retail!).
- Loosen and remove the two nuts on top of the "home plate" baffle.
- Loosen the pipe clamp that connects the baffle to the intake elbow
just before the throttle body.
- Pull up on the baffle and remove it. You may have to "wiggle" it to
remove it.
- Remove the rectangular baffle from the front of the elbow. You may
have to remove the air filter cover to do this.
- Remove the stock elbow from the throttle body, removing all sensors
and hoses.
- Replace the stock elbow with the Camaro elbow, reconnecting all sensors
and hoses.
- If the elbow is from a '94, you'll need to pierce it to insert
the blue nipple for the OptiSpark vent. On the first rib from the throttle body, about 20deg to the driver's
side from the bottom, use a drill bit just smaller than the blue vent
tube elbow and bore a hole through the rib. You can then push the blue
vent tube into the hole and hide "yetanothervacuumtube" from view.
You'll need to trim the vacuum tube to length (about three inches I
think). When finished you'll have a factory looking intake elbow and a
hidden distributor vent tube. Be sure to put it on the side of the elbow,
not the bottom, so that moisture won't enter the distributor.
- The bottom of the elbow has an oval tube protruding from it. That is
the resonator connection, which you'll notice is not opened. Careful
work with a razor knife or razorblade will allow you to cut off the tube
and leave a clean surface on the bottom. A little mistake won't cost
you much because about the only place you can see that spot is from
underneath the car. A pair of tin snips also takes care of the lip
quickly.
- Replace the rectangular baffle and the air filter lid.
- Remove the two "towers" that used to hold the baffle in place. Unbolt
them from the black bracket that crosses the intake manifold by using a
socket or a wrench on the top of them.
Back to the index...
Advantages
Removing the rectangular baffle between the air box and the intake
elbow allows the air to flow with less restriction and turbulance
to the intake, which increases power. It also helps the appearance
of the engine bay.
Disadvantages
The baffle is meant to reduce full-throttle noise. You may experience
a "howling" at full throttle.
Method 1: Baffle Bypass
NOTE: this method has been removed until further notice from
Franklin Poole
since the duct tape can shred, causing engine damage if
it is ingested.
Method 2: Replacing the Baffle with a Pipe
This method replaces the baffle with a piece of chrome exhaust
pipe. It looks much like some of the aftermarket kits that
are out there for a lot less money. This method is recommended
for those who don't mind a non-stock looking engine bay and
are on a budget. Note that you can use any sort of pipe you
want for this: chrome exhaust pipe, polished stainless steel,
painted PVC pipe, or whatever. Be creative!
Parts Required:
- A 3.5" chromed exhaust pipe cut to 13". About $20 from Pep Boys.
- A 2"-3" section of 3.5" ID rubber hose. Check with a local heavy truck
supply store for Gates hoses. "GATES Green Strip 3 1/2" I.D. (89 mm)",
P/N 24256, seems to work great. You can also get something called a
"no hub coupler" from a hardware store. Basically, any sort of heat-
resistant rubber connector will work fine. About $10 per foot.
- Two pipe clamps to secure the tubing to the MAF and the pipe. $2.
- Originally, the pipe will come tapered on one end (the exit for the
exhaust) and have a 2 1/2" "nipple" on the other to fit into the stanard
exhaust. You will have to cut both of these off so that it is just
a straight piece of chrome pipe. If you can find such a piece without
cutting, then you're better off. You'll need it to be around 13" long.The
original pipe should look something like this:
________________________________
\ \____
\ |
\ ____|
\____________________________/
- Loosen the clamps on both ends of the baffle.
-
- Remove the baffle. You may need to remove the air filter
cover to do this. Be careful not to damage the MAF (mass airflow
sensor) as you
remove the baffle. While you are doing this, make sure you
remember (or mark) which way the MAF faces.
- Clamp the rubber tubing to one side of the chrome tube.
- The other side of the rubber tubing should be clamped to the side
of the MAF that originally was connected to the rectangular
baffle. The hose should fit inside the rubber coupling that used
to connect to the resonator.
- Insert the pipe into the intake elbow. Secure the clamp on the
elbow so that it is tight around the pipe.
There is some concern about putting stress on the MAF connector if you are using
the stock airbox. The solution for this is to unmount the airbox from
the top of the PCM and angle it such that
when the straight pipe is installed, the stress on the elbow is relieved.
- Take the air box lid off of the airbox base, remove the filter, and set them aside.
- Unscrew the Torx head nut/bolt on the fenderwell.
- Look at the airbox; it's actually two pieces consisting of the square
airbox itself and a flat piece underneath that snaps down onto some tabs
on top of the PCM.
- Unsnap that flat piece and pull out the airbox base.
- Take another look at the airbox after it's out of the car. You'll see
two push pins holding the flat piece to the bottom of the box -- one
outside the box, one inside.
- By *carefully* pushing the pin back through the base, remove the push
pin that is outside the box. Leave the one inside the box alone. The
airbox should turn on the one remaining pin effectively providing a pivot
point.
- Snap the airbox back into place on the PCM. You should be able to turn
the airbox somewhat.
- Put the filter back in and put the lid back on the airbox.
- Turn the airbox towards the intake elbow as far as possible without
binding anything and measure and install your pipe.
Method 3: Aftermarket Air Intake Systems
All current aftermarket air intake systems for the Impala remove
this rectangular baffle. Instructions for installation will vary.
The main difference between the intake kits are the finish of the
parts and the air box modifications that they include.
Parts Required:
- Aftermarket Air Intake Kit. $200 - $350.
Procedure:
Method 4: Sewer Pipe Substitution
This method uses 3" angles of PVC pipe to substitute for the rectangular
baffle. The advantages to this method is that the angles allow it to line
up with the air box better, and the pipe can be painted and customized
in creative ways. It is also very inexpensive.
Parts Required:
- 2x 3" PVC long-turn street elbows, one inside end and one outside end
- 1x 3" rubber connector
- 1x 3" dia. x 3" long straight piece of PVC pipe
- 2x 3" ring clamps (should come with the connector)
- 1 can PVC purple pipe cleaner
- 1 can PVC cement
- When you are buying the PVC, make sure it is all of the same
schedule. The lowest number is best. This procedure was originally
done with schedule 40 PVC.
- Loosen the clamps on both ends of the baffle you are removing.
- Remove the baffle. You may need to remove the air filter
cover to do this. Be careful not to damage the MAF (mass airflow
sensor) as you
remove the baffle. While you are doing this, make sure you
remember (or mark) which way the MAF faces.
- Put the big ends of the PVC elbows together using a 3" long piece of the
straight pipe as a connector.
- If you want to, and have the time, you can
fill in the joint on the inside of the pipe with silicone caulk for
a more smooth airflow. This is really difficult, and probably not
worth the effort, though. You also might want to chamfer the inside
of the upstream end of the now S-shaped pipe, again to prevent any
sources of turbulence.
- Use the 3" rubber high pressure connector ( you can also use a
no-load connector) to connect the "S" to the MAF with the two
steel ring clamps. Cut about 1"
off the end of the connector and cut a small slot on the inside
to match the end protrusion on the lip of the MAF.
The chamfered end of the pipe goes into the other end of the connector
(without the notch). The chamfer eliminates a lip that would have generated some
turbulence ( probably not much, but you might as well do things right).
- The other end of the "S" goes into the stock elbow. An added advantage
is theat the end of the pipe extends past the corrugations in
the stock piece, thus aiding in keeping the flow smooth.
- Tighten all of the clamps down and you're ready to go!
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Rob Cheek
rcheek@one.net
Engine and Engine Dress