Four Counties Ring & Caldon Canal & Chester
by Mike Brown
Friday 21 April : Arrived at Heritage at about 14:30 and waited while some routine maintenance, valeting and pump out were being completed. Mike had a discussion with a member of staff at Heritage about whether or not, based on the evidence of weed and rust visible below the waterline, Rodbaston had had the hull painted. Person was as sceptical as Mike. Unfortunately Bob, the local Ownerships rep, had already left so unable to seek his opinion. Decided to wait until Monday to speak to Chris Hanley but took some pictures of weed and rust before departure.
We set off at about 15:30 and headed south towards Harecastle tunnel and moored for the night just outside the tunnel entrance. BW staff were still around and promised they'd get us away through the tunnel first thing in the morning. Very pleased at the more responsive steering and generally very happy to be on board. The adjusted timing on the engine also seems to have diminished the "diesel knock" previously experienced.
Saturday : Good to the word of BW staff we were into Harecastle Tunnel shortly after 08:00 and spent 45 minutes of darkness travelling through the tunnel. By the time were in the middle the light at each end had become merely a tiny glimmer.
Following advice from Chris Adams we elected to try the Caldon canal. The beginnings of the Caldon canal, around Stoke, are a bit dirty with lots of flotsam and jetsam. We'd pulled in at Etruria for water and had a chat with some boaters who said that during the previous day they'd been unable to travel the full length of the Caldon due to the River Churnet stretch being in flood, but we decided to give it a try anyway. Once we got away from Stoke the surroundings were very pleasant.
On the way we stopped at Bridge 18 where Jenny went to check out the Off Licence advertised at the bridge. It doesn't exist.
We motored on through Cheddleton Locks heading for The Boat Inn adjacent to Basford Bridge (Bridge 44) where we'd booked a table for dinner. We got there at about 18:30 and tied up at the moorings just opposite the Inn. We had one of the best value meals we've ever had on the waterways. That's not to say it was the best quality but was more the combination of decent quality and a very good price. Spent the night on the moorings.
Sunday : Woke the next morning to the sounds of the Churnet Valley Steam Railway getting started up. One of the stations on the line, with storage sidings, is about 100 metres from the moorings so we could hear the steam being built up and the general hubbub of activity. Quite pleasant really.
After breakfast on board we set off towards Froghall. This part of the journey was very pleasant. When we reached the lock where the canal becomes the River Churnet (I think this was Oakmeadowford Lock by Bridge 48) we were pleasantly surprised that the flood gauge indicated that we could proceed onto the Churnet. On we went to Froghall where we moored short of Froghall Tunnel near to the winding point. The height gauge at one of the bridges had shown that Rodbaston cannot negotiate Froghall Tunnel and so we didn't attempt it.
We had a pleasant light lunch in the tea rooms at Froghall Railway Station. This station is manned and decorated to reflect the age of steam and we spent a pleasant hour or so over lunch and a wander before heading back to the boat.
We motored back towards Stoke with the intention of mooring and having dinner at the Holly Bush at Bridge 38. The place was packed with visitors, both waterborne and land lubbers and there were no moorings so we didn't linger. Instead we moored just west of the junction adjacent to Hazelhurst Locks and had dinner on board.
Monday : On towards Stoke. We stopped again at Bridge 18 and Mike went to investigate shops. Advice is go up the steps at Bridge 18 ignoring the sign about Off Licence and turn right instead. After a few hundred yards there is a butchers shop on the right selling home made pies that proved very nice. The pork pies weren't as good as those to be had in Ellesmere but were good nevertheless. A couple of hundred yards further and you reach the centre of the village where there is a small supermarket and other shops.
After a pork pie lunch we set off again.
It was at about this time when telephone reception was good enough to speak to Chris Hanley about Rodbaston paint work. This conversation has been described elsewhere.
Filled up with water again at Etruria and got back onto the Trent & Mersey where we headed South.
Stopped at a Chandlers and bought a new tin of Bitumastic Black (£10.99) for the hull having discovered that the previous can had dried out. This tin is larger than the previous tin but was the smallest I could get. Staff at the boatyard were similarly sceptical about how recently Rodbaston's hull had been painted.
We went on to Barlaston and moored in the evening just short of Bridge 104 so that Jenny could try out the adjacent Wedgwood factory shop next morning.
Tuesday : On Southward until we reached Great Haywood where we moored just short of Bridge 74. Dinner on board.
Wednesday : After breakfast Jenny visited the Farm Shop at Bridge 74 and got some smashing bread following which we set off again and negotiated the Great Haywood Junction without incident despite a heavy volume of traffic in all directions. Cold and windy morning and so the attraction of stopping for a while at Tixall Broad was a bit soured so we motored straight through. We could imagine how nice this stretch of water would be on a warm balmy summer evening.
We motored on to Penkridge where we took time to visit the Farmers Market, held every Wednesday and Saturday. Unfortunately it was starting to close down by the time we got there so we feel unable to comment on how good it might be under normal circumstances.
We travelled on to Gailey and moored for the night after lock 33.
Thursday : Few locks to contend with and we made good time through Autherley Junction and on Northward. Unable to take on water at Autherley due to a boat moored at the water point with an injured person on board waiting for the arrival of an ambulance.
Travelled on to Wheaton Aston where we made the first effort at tidying up the black paint on the starboard side.
Dinner in the Hartley Arms. Not much to write home about other than they serve far too many chips with the meal for our liking.
Friday 28 April : Some time after leaving Wheaton Aston we got stuck behind a boat travelling at tick over speed on a particularly narrow stretch of canal. He ignored us and refused to pull over to let us past so we suffered this for several miles leading up to Gnosall Heath where we pulled over and tied up in frustration.
We had our first attempt at the black paint on the port side. Jenny found a good butcher over bridge 34.
Afterwards we travelled on to Norbury Junction where we had a pump out and refilled with water and 79 litres of diesel then went straight on to Market Drayton where we tied up for the night at the visitor moorings. Mike re varnished the woodwork on the side hatch.
Saturday : Had a walk round Market Drayton and visited the local Somerfield for essentials.
Onward towards Audlem where we had intended to tie up for the night and eat out. In the event there were no decent moorings to be found so we went straight through to Nantwich and moored on the visitor moorings just short of Bridge 92. It was now quite late so we had a relaxing dinner on board.
Sunday : Full English for Mike and poached eggs on toast for Jenny at the cafe at Nantwich Basin. Tried again in the chandlery to get a replacement bulb for the fridge on Rodbaston. Must have been the third or fourth chandlery I'd tried without success.
Set off for Chester. On the way we had to idle past the longest stretch of moored boats we've ever come across. It seemed like about a mile and a half but probably less.
When we entered Chester we came across some particularly stroppy youngsters one of who insisted on leaping onto the roof of the boat at a lock. After Mike "pursuaded" him to get off he then proceeded to drip water onto his head (hat) with his fishing net. Trying to humour him was quite frustrating and the folks on the other boat we were by now travelling with through the locks were surprised Mike was able to keep his cool (So was Mike).
We would not recommend any of the moorings on the way in to Chester as they are either in commercial unattractive surroundings or they are too close to canal side wine bars and the like. However, on advice from Chris we were heading to the wharf below the staircase locks where we finally arrived early evening. Because of the time Jenny trying booking a table at the adjacent hostelry to be told there were none available until after 21:30 so we didn't bother. However, watching the sort of clientele entering the place it was probably a blessing in disguise.
The chap we'd travelled through the locks with told me he'd gone there for a drink to find bouncers on the door turning people away because they were six deep at the bar. He found somewhere else for a drink.
Dinner on board again.
Monday : Spent the morning in Chester where Jenny spent a half hour in the Cathedral (not Mike's kind of thing) then had a wander round the town.
After lunch we set off on our own back up the staircase locks and gradually made our way out of Chester.
The Shady Oak at Bridge 109 (next to Beeston Castle) had been recommended to us so we headed there and arrived late afternoon. The place is under new management and providing the current management continues we would highly recommend it for both food and beer. Mike had a smashing sirloin steak and Jenny had a very tasty seafood dish. Well worth a visit but be aware that they stop taking dinner orders at 19:00 on Mondays. Must be the Chef's early night.
Tuesday : Cold and windy morning when we headed off and had an uneventful day. We eventually tied up at the visitor moorings in Middlewich just short of Bridge 29. Found another Somerfield after a 10 minute walk so bought some essentials and dined on board.
Wednesday : Got back onto the Trent & Mersey after breakfast on a beautiful sunny day. Motored on to Hassall Green where we moored at Bridge 146. Despite that the Romping Donkey close to our mooring was recommended we felt we should use up some of the food we still had on board. We therefore did some more touching up to the starboard paint work, polished the mushrooms and dined on board. A beautiful sunset.
Thursday : Set off towards Kidsgrove and arrived at about 12:40. Took on water at the BW point just short of Bridge 134 then passed through lock 43 where we moored and had quite a good lunch at the Red Bull. Afterwards we negotiated the turns off the Trent & Mersey and back onto the Macclesfield where we eventually tied up before Bridge 95 to complete the paint touch up on the port side. The moorings were quite low here and was able to brush down and repaint the yellow flash on the stern where we'd carried deep scratches since last year. All very cosmetic but the boat did look good if you weren't standing too close. Relaxed in the sunshine before motoring on to Heritage where we arrived early evening and tied up in the marina. The wind had been dreadful all day and the delicate manoeuvring needed throughout the afternoon had been quite a challenge.
We started to pack up our things and clean the boat before heading to dinner at the Rising Sun. Be aware that this pub does not accept plastic cards and will only take payment by cash or cheque. Nevertheless we had just enough cash left foe a very pleasant dinner. Mike had a smashing Liver & Bacon Casserole and Jenny had a Chicken Tika Massala. Beer wasn't bad either Chris.
Friday 5 May : Up bright and early to finish packing and cleaning. Filled up with water and diesel (65 litres) and left the marina staff to pump out the main loo. Finally managed to get a replacement bulb for the fridge at Heritage.
Met one of the owners of Cookley, a cruiser style about 1 year older than Rodbaston. They commented on how smart Rodbaston looked in comparison to Cookley and said they had been unhappy with the quality of the original paint work on their boat. When I went to take a look I must admit that the paint work did look inferior to Rodbaston. Quite apart from the fact that the Cookley owners clearly do not touch up the paint work themselves, the boat appeared to have had only one original coat of paint on the superstructure (it looked and felt thin) and they'd sustained quite a bit of bridge collision type damage at the top edges.
Throughout our trip we'd had many complimentary comments about Rodbaston, particularly after we'd done some cosmetics.
We had a truly nice fortnight on the boat with no mishaps and no mechanical problems. We'll be submitting a request for reimbursement from the sinking fund for black paint @ £10.99 and a fridge bulb @ £2.99. New loo brush and extra paint brushes are our donation in addition to several months of free rental of our wok and rice cooker.
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Harecastle Tunnel |
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Steam Train Terminal at Froghall |
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Froghall Terminal |
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Moorings at Froghall on Caldon Canal |
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Tixall Wide, Jenny Steering |
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Narrows on Shropshire Union |
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Audlem Locks |
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Chester Staircase |
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Leaving Chester |
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A veteran |
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Rodbaston Spruced Up |