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| The mighty Ranchero suffered an engine fire recently. Some of the block paint is blackened as is a portion of the carbs finish. There was no damage to any of the rubber, belts or hoses. There was some minor damage to the main wiring harness on the driver side. The wires got a little scorched, but the insulation is not burned through. There in no bare wire showing, so I decided to leave it up to the future owner whether you think any wires should be replaced. I, personaly, feel it is safe and I do drive it as is. The culprate was a faulty fuel filter (one of those clear view jobbies). It has been replaced with an OEM type metal can filter so this will never happen again. |
| This Ranchero is located near Reno Nevada. It is not currently registered. I can help arrange shipping if you would like it to be shipped to you. If have any questions, feel free to email me at: russ_n_steph@juno.com |
| Welcome to my attempt to sell my 1970 Ranchero 500. It was originally a 302 2V with a C4 trans, but it now has a 351 Cleveland 4V engine from a 1970 Mach 1. This Ranchero is just looking for somebody to love and restore it, but it runs great and drives well as is. On to the specifics. |
| Engine: |
| The engine is a 351 Cleveland 4V which came out of a craped out 1970 Mustang Mach 1 with the stock closed chamber "quench" style 4V heads. It has under 3000 miles on it since being rebuilt. Since I've had it I've added the following: 1. Comp Cams Magnum 280H cam. (Click here for cam specs) 2. Comp Cams Hi-Tech double roller timing chain set - their top of the line 3. Rhoads variable duration lifters - provides great low end torque 4. Crane Cams valve springs - providing correct seat pressures for this cam 5. New hardened pushrods - just to be on the safe side 6. Mechanical fuel pump has been chucked in favor of a Holley "Red" Electric Fuel Pump 7. Holley 3310-3 750 CFM vac sec carb with manual choke - just rebuilt but ugly 8. Hooker 1 3/4" long tube "Competition" headers to full dual 2 1/2" aluminized tubing and generic 2 1/2" in / out mufflers - you may want better mufflers, but these are on the quiet side if that's the way you like it. 9. Chrome Ford Motorsports: 13" aircleaner, valve covers and oil pan (I know it sounds silly, but it's the only one I could find with the correct anti slosh baffling around the oil pickup) This engine is powerful with tons of low to mid power and torque. It starts easy and runs great. Don't believe all the crap you hear about the lack of streetability of 4V heads. One drive and you'll know what I'm talkin' about. It feels like a friggin big block down low (probably due to the fact that it's got the stock intake manifold) and revs out real nice. It could use a better intake to really take advantage of the cam, and give a stronger top end charge, but I'll leave that up to you. Even in hot stop and go traffic the engine rarely exeedes 200 (210 max) degrees F and normally runs at around 180. |
| Trans and Rear End: |
| The transmission is a stock C4 with an unknown torque converter (smaller than stock and painted blue?). Stall speed seems like it's around 2000 RPM or so but I don't have a tach... New gaskets were just installed for the pan and between the front pump and case; no more leaks. Front and rear main seals were inspected and are fine. There is an auxillary trans fluid cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I removed the colomn shift (still have the peices to reinstall) because it wiil not clear the oh so important headers. The C4 now shifts via a B&M Z-Gate shifter. It has a new shift cable and works real well. Trans shifts fine and seems reliable but the up shifts are on the soft side when under acceleration. The rear end is the original open (non locker) 8" with 3.00:1 ratio. No clunking or funny noises. Seems tight. |
| The steering has been converted to manual steering for simplicity.I do not have any of the original parts to put it back to power. The steering column is original and still has the (useless) column shifter installed. The front end has old shocks and springs and I'm sure all the rubber peices are all original. The ball joints seem to be tight.The Ranchero drives ok, however, it could use a front end alignment as it pulls to the right. Make no mistakes, this Ranchero is plenty driveable (although I wouldn't go too far on those front tires). The brakes are power but you wouldn't know it by the pedal's stiff feel. I don't know why but I don't care because I was going to eventually convert it to manual anyways. The fronts are disk and the rears are drum. The pads at all four corners have 75% or more pad left. The brakes work and stop very well. There is no rust on the chasis or floorboards. |
| Body: |
| The body is pretty straight with only one biggish pressure dent in the driver door which can be taken out. The paint looks bad. It was light blue and was repainted a darker blue. The paint is chipping, peeling and faded. There are rust spots (ok, holes) around the rear wheels and some around the rear wheel lips. The chrome is actually pretty decent on this Ranchero. All the door and window rubber moulding is rotted and needs to be replaced. The wheels are 14" Magnum 500s with some surface rust which will come out (I think) and I'll give you a 5th as a spare, too. This thing needs new front tires! They look ok but are old. I wouldn't go too far on them. |
| Chasis and Steering: |
| You can purchase this Ranchero for: LISTED ON EBAY 5/04/2003 - 5/14/2003 Sold As-Is |
| The Bad Stuff: |
| FOR SALE 1970 Ford Ranchero |
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| This guy could use a new front grille |
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| This dent is shalow and can easily be pulled. The only other dings are the size of a dime or smaller |
| FOR SALE!!! 1970 Ford Ranchero 500 |
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| Interior: |
| The interior needs to be restored if you want it nice. The bench seat has a couple of rips, the headliner is non-existant, The door panels are OK but not great, the dash pad is all cracked up. The guages all work and sometimes the heater works, too! There is a cut out where the previous owner installed a pullout radio (no longer installed). Notice the temp guage that I (sort of) installed. I have the glove box door. I removed it to straighten out the hinge which is a bit tweeked. |