Rachel's Reflections
Rachel's Reflections

Rachel's Reflections
Rachel's Reflections

Janet’s Low-Tech Method For Starting African Violets From Seed
Part One–Sowing the seed
         

Step 1
         
Gather the materials you will need 
        
Find a shallow container with a clear lid that will fit fairly tightly to use for your seed bed. Deli containers, take-out salad containers, and the like are perfect if they have lids, otherwise you will have to use plastic wrap to cover them. It should be at least 10" x 4" to hold the seed from one pod or one package from a commercial source. Drill, cut or burn small 1/8"-1/4" holes in the bottom of the container for drainage. Find a shallow tray to hold the plastic seed bed. Styrofoam meat trays from the butcher are perfect. This is for bottom watering once the seed has germinated and for keeping the seed bed from twisting which could dislodge the seed and the seedlings. Have some good quality peat moss and vermiculite on hand.

 

Styrofoam meat tray and plastic cookie container with a hinged lid.
(The dime in each photo is for size reference.)
     

Step 2 
        
Prepare the potting medium
            
Either purchase a fine grade of vermiculite (pictured) or sift what you have available with an ordinary kitchen colander or 1/4" hardware cloth to remove large pieces. This is easier to do and makes less dust if you first dampen the vermiculite slightly. It can be forced through the holes to break up larger pieces. Do the same with the peat moss, also dampening it first.
     


Kitchen colander used to sift peat moss and vermiculite
       

Measure out equal parts of sifted vermiculite and sifted peat moss and put it into a large container to mix it.
      
    

Sifted peat and vermiculite in equal quantities
      

Add water a bit at a time and thoroughly mix it in with your hands until the medium just barely holds together when squeezed in your hand.
        
            


Mixture should just barely hold together
       

Spread medium into container, filling it about half way. Tap the container lightly to distribute the medium evenly, leaving no hills or valleys. Do not pack it down. Lightly mist the surface until the medium has settled a bit and is uniformly wet. The seed bed should be moist but never soggy while the seeds are germinating.
             


Misting the evenly spread potting medium
             

           
Step 3
   
        
Prepare the seed
             
With a razor blade, hobby knife or very sharp kitchen knife, slice the dried seed capsule in half.
        


Seed capsule, cut in half
       

Using a pair of tweezers, pour the seed onto a folded 3 x 5 note card or other piece of stiff white paper, creased down the middle. If you are using commercially prepared seed, cut the top off the package and pour the seed onto the sheet of paper so that you can see it clearly. Be sure to tap the seed packet to get all the seeds out. It is as fine as dust!
         

Pour the seed onto a creased 3 x 5 index card

           

Step 4 
         
Sow the seed
                
Gently tilt the card and tap it very gently to distribute the seed as evenly as possible over the moist potting medium.  Do not wet the surface again and do not cover the seed with potting medium. The seeds need light to germinate.
           
        

Tap the index card to distribute seed

            


Close the lid, place the seed bed on the tray and label it with your cross and the date the seeds were sown. If the seed was from a commercial source, label it as to type (miniature, trailer, standard, etc.) and the date it was sown. Set the seed bed under your lights in a warm place. The top shelf of the light stand should be fine. When handling the seed bed, always pick it up by the tray so you don’t dislodge the germinating seed by jostling or twisting the plastic container. Don’t worry about moisture collecting on the inside of the plastic container. If for some reason, the surface of the seed bed should dry out, pour some plain water into the tray under the plastic container and set a timer for 1 hour. At the end of the hour, pour off any remaining water.
           
 
                     

Step 5  
         
Wait....wait.....and wait some more!!!

              

In about 2-3 weeks, depending on the temperature of the place you’ve chosen to keep your seed bed, you may see tiny specks of green appearing on the surface. Keep the seed bed covered and warm while all the seed is germinating. Some seeds will take longer than others to germinate.
       
About four weeks after you see the first seedlings, you can prop the top open part way. When the surface begins to dry, it’s time to start feeding the seedlings with a very weak 20-20-20 or other balanced low urea fertilizer at the rate of 1/16 tsp. per gallon of water. Do this by filling the tray with the fertilizer water and setting the timer for an hour, then pouring off the remaining water. The seedlings are still way too small to try to top water, so bottom watering is the safest way to feed and water them. Also, the medium will still be quite fluffy so those tiny roots can penetrate it, and top watering at this stage is liable to compact the medium, as well as wash the plants away.

 

Janet's Low-Tech Method For Starting African Violets From Seed
         Part Two-- Potting up the seedlings
        

Step 1  
   
Gather the materials you will need
        
In 3-4 months when most of the seedlings are showing their first pair of true leaves, (the first pair you will see, called cotyledons, are not true leaves) it is time to start transplanting them into very small individual pots.
             

Seedlings showing their first true leaves, 3 months after sowing the seed
              

Some possibilities for this are tiny "thumb pots", small solo cups like the ones restaurants give out filled with hot sauce, or other small plastic containers from restaurants such as cream cups, and Promise Spread cups. Even plastic soda bottle tops will work in a pinch. Have more potting medium ready. You will use the same mixture of one part sifted peat moss and one part sifted vermiculite for potting. Make a notched stick for lifting the seedlings. A wooden chopstick is ideal. On one end, flatten it on two sides with a paring knife and then with a hobby knife or razor blade, cut a v-shaped notch. Have ready several shallow containers with clear lids to keep the pots in while the seedlings are getting established. Fast food containers are ideal for this purpose.
             


Clockwise from top left, 1 oz. Solo cup, restaurant cream cup and Promise Spread cup, 1 1/4" thumb pot, soda bottle top (all with drainage holes), notched wooden chopstick                

                    
                      
Step 2
 
           
Prepare the pots         
     
Fill the pots loosely with moist, but not soggy potting medium and with a pencil, make a ½" deep depression in the center of each one. Prepare 15-20 at a time if you have many seedlings, or if you have only a few seedlings, prepare as many pots as you think you will need.          
             
            

          

Prepared thumb pots filled with medium, in a Fazoli’s Italian Food container  
ready to receive seedlings.
                 
              

Step 3   
       
Separate the seedlings
         

With the notched chopstick, very gently lift the seedlings one at a time if they are not crowded, or one small clump at a time if they are. Be very careful to get underneath the roots and lift up. Dislodge only a few seedlings at a time as their tiny roots dry out very quickly.
                  


Lifting a clump of seedlings
                    
                   

Gently tease the clump apart with the notched stick to separate the seedlings.  Leave as much soil as possible clinging to the roots
    

Separate the seedlings
                    

Using the notched stick, pick up one seedling at a time by its cotyledons, being careful not to injure the delicate stem or roots. A pair of tweezers can also be used but if you are not extremely careful, you may bruise the leaves. Do not handle the stems or roots. If you break the stem, the seedling will most likely die.
                    


Seedling suspended by its cotyledons in the notch of the chopstick
               
            

Step 3  
          
Plant the seedlings into individual pots

              
Lower the seedling into the depression and fill the medium in around the stem, being careful not to bury the leaves. Water lightly using a very fine mist or even an eyedropper to settle the medium around the roots. From this point on, you will be bottom watering. Place the thumb pots in covered deli containers.
               

Fast food container with cover, containing potted up seedlings
                          

Leave the containers closed for about two weeks or until the seedlings are showing new growth. Then the lids can remain off and the seedlings can be watered and fed by gently pouring diluted fertilizer water (1/16 tsp. per gallon of water) into the plastic container around the pots to a depth of about ½ inch. Pour slowly and carefully to keep the pots from floating and tipping over. After one hour syphon off any remaining water with a turkey baster. Watch the seedlings carefully, for they are in very shallow pots which will dry out in a matter of a few days. It will be several months before they will need to be potted up again and as they get larger, you will be able to top water without fear of dislodging them from their pots.
          
The seedlings will grow at different rates and it won't take long to see which ones are the most robust.  They will also begin to show some differences in overall color, as can be seen in the photo below of seedlings that are 19 weeks old.  The darker babies will most likely grow up to have dark green leaves with red backs and the lighter babies will most likely have paler green leaves with white or "silver" backs.  As they grow further, their leaf edge characteristics will begin to develop.
     

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LLargest seedlings in 1 oz. Solo cups at age 19 weeks

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