This SnowShoe design was roughly based on an article featured in
the December 1998 issue of Boys Life.
If these instructions are not sufficient
please contact:
Explorer Port 2222
13095 Monroe Drive
Thornton, CO 80241
Phone 303-457-0512
He has a detailed 35 page set of plans available for only $15.00 that include the plans for both the Scout sized Snowshoes featured here and Adult sized as well.
I will try and get some pictures of the shoes built by Troop
114, before the end of the Christmas Break.
You may contact Tom Leach
if you would like a few more detail on the Troop's successful SnowShoe building.
MATERIALS
Each Pair of shoes will require:
2 pieces 3/4 by 10 ft schedule 40 (or stronger - schedule 80) PVC pipe
20 inches of 1/4 inch steel bar
36 inches of 5/16 steel bar
approx 1/3 yd of Denver Tent Neoprene impregnated Nylon or equivalent
1 Large truck inner tube (from Lauren Young)
2 #10-24 x 2 1 / 4 inch Machine Screws and Nuts
4 #10-24 x 1 inch Machine Screws and Nuts
8 3 / 16 inch fender washers
50 feet of #4 Nylon or polyester cord
The PVC pipe forms the frame of the shoe. The bars slide into holes drilled on the INSIDE only of the shoe frame to act as support for the Denver Tent Neoprene impregnated Nylon, that is the inside base of the shoe. The cord is used for lashing the base to the frame. And the Inner Tube is the “boot” for attaching the Scout's boot/shoe.
THE JIG
However, You also need to construct a Jig to hold and form the SnowShoes. Those more knowledgeable than myself say that by constructing a wooden hold down frame, and using water to cool the frame, You can dramatically speed up the time on the jig.
I hope to have a drawing and photo later. Here is a verbal description of the entire operation.
Frame construction – Using a 1 x 12 x 40 inch board , lay out the shoe pattern and then attach to a 1 x 12 x 46 inch board.
The overall pattern is length is 37 inches to the inside radius of the front of the shoe.
From the back, the pipes lay side by side for 5 inches. At 14.5 inches (9.5 from the side by side the inside of the inside jig should be 6.25 inches wide. At 37.25 inches the inside jig is 7.5 inches wide. (Cut and bend up point) The jig continues straight for another inch and then has 3.75 inside radius half circle.
Remember a 3 / 4 inch pipe has 3 /4 inch inside diameter, it is probably about 1 and 1/16 inches wide on the outside. Be sure that the piece you cut out for your pipe is large enough for the pipe!
Attach (screw and glue ) the jig to the larger board. Cut the front toe piece 4.75 inches from the inside of the jig. Attach it with a piece of metal of wood to securely form an angle of approx. 144 degrees. When finished the end (toe ) of the PVC frame will be about 3.5 inches higher than the top of the frame base. ( the base is flat, the toe bends up for the last 4.75 inches to a height of 3.5 inches.
Having some clamp on boards to hold the PVC in place while cooling is an excellent idea.
BENDING THE PVC
Heat up about 3 quarts of sand to 325-350 degrees. (this can be done on a camp stove). Using Leather gloves, a metal funnel and 2 people, pour about 1 quart thru the pipe to preheat it. Now stopper one end and fill the pipe with sand. Within a minute or two the pipe will become plyable enough to bend. Drain the sand and bend the pipe into the jig. Hold / clamp until it cools, or run water thru for a rapid cool down.
Don't forget, when the Snowshoe frame has cooled to paint it a color that is easier to find in the snow than White . . . Before you lash on the Base!
DRILLING HOLES FOR METAL RODS
After the frame is formed cut the back to length and then drill a 3/16 inch hole all the way thru 2 inches from the back end. (for the longest bolt).
The other holes only go through the INSIDE of the pipe frame, DO NOT Drill all the way through both sides of the pipe.
Drill a set of 1/4 inch holes 5.25 inches from the FRONT radius – cut rod to 9.25 inches.
Drill a set of 5/16 inch holes 8.5 inches further back from hole 1(13.75 from radius point) rod is 8 7/8 inches long.
Drill a third set of (5/16 inch) holes 7 inches further (15.5 from hole 1) for a 8.5 inch long rod.
Drill a fourth set of (5/16 inch) holes 8 inches further back ( 23.5 from hole 1) for a 7.75 inch long rod.
THE BASE
Cut the Denver Tent Neoprene impregnated Nylon about 27.75 inches long. The base needs cut approx ¼ narrower than the inside of the pipe frame. Approx 7 inches wide in the front and 6 inches at the bend in back. Cut the taper in the rear off at 2 inches wide. Dill(punch) a series of 1/8 inch holes every 1 ½ inch all the way around the base for the lashing cord to go through. At ten and one half inches from the front drill two 3/8 holes in the center with 2 inches between them.(for attaching the Rubber Boot) See Rough Pattern below.
THE BOOT - can not be described adequately, I hope these pictures are helpful. The hole spacing is 2 inch.
THE FINISHED SHOWSHOES - And, after a lot of lacing, a few bolts and false starts you should have something like this. Good Luck!
Last updated 01/06/02, Russ Moan, Webmaster