While most of us dream about one of these!
	You could be driving one!

No need to buy expensive kit's or body shells…
We show you how to build the body from scratch!

With just some simple hand tools and our "PLANS"
you can build a Countach body under $1000.

What would you say if we showed you how you can be driving a Lamborghini Countach replica for under $7000

Sounds to good to be true well its not !

	No Fiero donor car!
	No Expensive space-frame chassis!

	Just a Volkswagen Chassis!
	A cheap VW chassis which can cost as low as $50

Using our PLANS you will be able to build your dream car and have it registered on the road. No matter where you are in the world you can get this car road registered as it uses a Volkswagen chassis, the car becomes a re-bodied Volkswagen.

...but i dont want to be driving around in a VW!

Well how about if told you that you can have a V6 in this beast ;-)

Here is what you get:

- Written for the amateur
- Little money a few inexpensive tools to start
- *Chassis plans to build a V6 or V8 car
- Sub-chassis plans for a cheaper VW type 3 version
- Full size body plans
- 40 min VCD video FREE
- No moulds required
- Approved in all Countries
- Electric plans
- Door construction
- Using original curved windscreen(or flat glass)
- Intrusion bars & roll cage
- Apply these methods to build other replica cars, Boats, customizing steel bodied cars,   motorcycle body parts

*Special BONUS space-frame design diagram FREE

Start building NOW!

Here are some questions that you
might have and the answers?

Did you build the body…or is it a kit?
YES! I built the body from scratch using the plans that you can buy. It took me 3 weeks to get the body made and it cost me just under $1000. The body is all hand made.

How hard is it making the chassis?
Well I took the easy option and built the car using the VW chassis and the sub-frame which I built from the plans supplied. I wanted to have the car on the road as quickly as possible. The plans also give you an option to build a space frame chassis.

What type of engine did you end up using?
Since I was building the car on a VW chassis I used a 2 litter V6 Nissan motor. I had to buy a adaptor plate and that was it.

Why the VW chassis?
The VW chassis is a very old and safe option no matter where you are in the world. Building the car is much easier and quicker with the vw chassis not to mention cheaper. If you decided to build the space frame chassis I would have to under go to many tests and it is more difficult to get the car registered. (please contact your local road authorities for these guidelines)

How long did the car take to finish?
I worked on the car only on the weekends and I had it finished in 14 month.

What was the hardest part to build in the car?
Working on the doors was the most difficult part but with the plans explaining what hinges to use and how to cut the out made it more easy to understand how the doors actually work.

So what do i get in the PLAN package?
You get body plans, free video and construction manual.

Start building NOW!

After getting the plans it was time to start building the timber frame that will hold the timber body formers.	The first body former in place.	Few more formers where put in place supported by vertical sections to keep all the formers nice and square.
Here are some more formers with the centre cut out to allow you to have access to the inside of the body once it's covered in foam.	In between the wooden formers I placed some long timber section to keep the distance between the formers even.	I used the cheapest foam I could find which was Polyurethane, cutting out pieces that fitted between the wooden formers I secured them in using wood screws.
You can see a picture what the foam looks like from the inside.	All the gaps we had left after covering the formers with foam have to get filled. I used normal plaster which you use for building purposes.	Using a corse wood file I started shaping the body. You have to take your time and be very careful, as the foam is very soft. The only harder portions of the body so far are the plaster filled gaps, which are between the formers.
Once I got the body to a rough shape that I was happy with it was time to cover the whole body with a thin layer of plaster. This allowed me to shape the body with much more detail and also allowed me to use a cheaper resin with out burning the foam as we covered it with plaster. Don't think that I'm a rocket scientist I got all this information with the plans.	Here you can see better the rear end of the car being covered with a thin layer of plaster.	The rear air vents taking shape.
I built a platform all around the car so I can stand on it and walk all around the car making live much easier. It also came in handy when shaping the flares I could mount the wheels in position to get the right site flare and shape. The flares where the hardest to get even and looking right. I suggest looking at photos of the real car and copy the shape.	This is the other side of the car, I'm building up the flare with foam and plaster.	The whole car was successfully covered with plaster and shaped as even and close to the real thing as I could. Then the car was covered with 4 layers of fibreglass cloth and resin. Each layer was left to cure overnight and rubbed back with coarse sandpaper before the next layer applied. I took extra care when applying the last layer of cloth not to get any air bubbles and weave sticking up from the body. After the last layer was cured very carefully the body was sanded back and any imperfections and weave showing was filled with automotive body filler what we call "BOG". This product bonds with fibreglass extremely well as it is epoxy based.
The body was turned upside down and the formers removed with the foam as well eaving us a fibreglass body shell. I ended up removing the side skirt after I glassed the body.	The donor car arrives a 1972 Type 3 VW.	I'm removing the VW body .
The sub-chassis was built as per the plans and placed on the VW chassis.	I put the body over the chassis to see what it looks like and to see where we can glass the body to the frame.	Wheels are bolted on and some cheap taillight just sticky taped on. As you can see there are no doors yet.
It took me some time to draw the doors straight on the body with a felt pen. I wanted to make sure that both sides where even.	It took some time to cut out the doors. The door ledges I made out of foam then covered with fibreglass. I had taken my time to make sure the doors shut properly.	The car was fitted with a Nissan 2 litter V6 motor and an adaptor plate to bolt on to the VW transaxle. When the wiring was done and the car was structurally completed it was inspected by an Engineer and "APPROVED" YESSSSSSS!