Toyota 2ZZ-GE "Lift Controller"
By Nolat
XHTML Format By killer_siller

from the desk of the editor - 2006.09.28
i figured i'd implement my skills in XHTML and help out the community a little bit. the following is a revision of Nolat's original guide as found on 9thgencorolla.com. I revised some grammatical errors and ambiguities in the wording, other than that it's exactly as Nolat describes. Have fun, lift on.
Killer Siller

Disclaimer: This is just how I was able to control lift in my car. I don't hold any responsibility to anyone who follows these instructions. It will probably void your warranty.

The lift controller is comprised of a few simple components:

1. An RPM Switch - I used an MSD 8969 Digital Window Switch.
2. A VVT/VVL Solenoid - off any 2ZZ-GE or a VVT 1ZZ-FE.
   
3. A micro switch. - Anything that is SPDT or SPST, NC, and C.
   

That's it. 3 things. Now, if you want to make some extra power it would be nice to control the cam phasing (VVT-i) with something like a PE Camcon. I haven't brought my car to a dyno, however, I'm sure one of you will and we can see some graphs.

Theory of Operation

The VVL system appears to have a current loop to sense if the VVL solenoid is present. My attempts at using a simple relay failed as I couldn't properly mimic the properties of a solenoid through a relay. Instead, I have used another VVL/VVT solenoid (both are identical in manufacture, different in their use.... VVT is a pulsed duty, VVL is on or off) and taken the oil valve assembly apart with a simple flat screwdriver, then re-sealed the unit by hammering the tabs back on. I then made a bracket (out of wood or whatever) and spaced the micro switch so that when the ECU activates the VVL solenoid (6300 for 03, 6500 for 04), the micro switch then removes the ground and the ECU thinks all is well.

The OSW looks for an OPEN when lift is engaged, not a short to ground. Be sure to use the NC contact on your micro switch. If you don't, you will get a CEL and you will not be able to rev over 7000.

Now that the ECU is separated from the VVL solenoid on the engine, we can now simply activate the solenoid through the RPM switch. Back feed to the ECU is NOT an issue because they are separate. Remember, ECU's are expensive.

Simply connect your ground switching RPM switch's NO contact to one side and put +12V to the other side. Polarity is not an issue.

Recap

• OVL(+) and OVL(-) go to your separate VVL/VVT solenoid that you have fabricated with the micro switch.
• OSW goes to the ->NC<- contact of your micro switch and the C goes to ground.
• The component side OVL+ and – (the non ECU side) Go to 12v Power and the NO contact of your RPM switch.

Remember, I wrote this for a ground switching RPM switch. I do recommend the MSD 8969, its digital, it set up and worked great. Plus its only ~100 bucks. I got mine for less on Ebay.

Tips

• For the used VVT/VVL solenoid, I cut around the plastic crap and soldered the wires on. Make sure they don't short. If you are unsure, put a ~5A fuse in line with your power. Blowing the ECU's main fuse is bad.
• Putting it on a wiring harness is a good idea. The VVL/VVT solenoid makes a small buzzing noise because of its current loop. Small enough that hiding it would make it quiet enough, but its nice to have it on a harness.

Room For Improvement

It would be nice if someone could design a circuit that would mask the current loop and drive a relay instead. It would eliminate need for the VVL/VVT solenoid and micro switch.

Wiring Pin-Outs

12+ (IGN) = E6-1
Ground = E3-5
Tach = E5-3
OVL+ (VVL+) = E4-17
OVL- (VVL-) = E4-16
OSW = E5-31

12+ (ign) = E6-1
Ground = E6-5
Tach = E6-5
OVL+ = E3-25
OVL- = E3-24
OSW = E4-33

And here's a picture of the VVL solenoid and micro-swith

Good Luck!
Nolat