'04 CBR600RR in a '98 Yamaha Warrior

VIDEOS First ride clips, railroad tracks, abandoned road...no exhaust. .....1..... .....2..... .....3..... .....4..... Semi Completion, no paint, no suspension. Newest Compilation Video Mostly Completed, full suspension, completed exhaust. One more road video Burnout (not bad, better will come) Doughnuts on my concrete driveway Wheelies (dont make fun haha, had to equalize tire pressure after these first attempts...note: this is my first machine with twist throttle) Some snow videos with the skis on Frozen Pond 1 Frozen Pond 2 OTHER VIDEOS '95 FORMULA COMPILATION (2.4MB) Pictures MV Agusta F4 1000 Tamburini 1 2 BMW M3 CSL 1 My Aquatrax R-12x R12X

The stock upper frame rails had to be removed back to the point where the seat mounts are to fit the RRs enormous airbox.  I used 1"x.058 wall 4130 chomemoly for this part of the frame since it needed to be extremely stiff, and I am not worried about any kind of stress fatigue causing it to snap due to 4130s hardness.  The stock rails were then tied back into the modified ones with the horizontal piece you can see in the right picture, this gave some triangulation to the frame and also made the task of seat mounting much easier.

Left: This shows the RR's 4-secondary fuel injectors mounted to the top of the airbox.  They turn on at ~8000rpms to supply the needed fuel for the 15,500rpm redline.  You can definitely feel it when they turn on, it feels a lot like a nitrous shot actually.  This is why I was unable to fabricate a custom airbox to keep the install cleaner (I still could have, but the box would have been no smaller than stock).  Right: Front motor mounts had to go around the header/radiator, and be extremely stiff since they are the only mounts in the front of the engine.  I mounted them double shear to the front suspension rails of the quad for removablity. Also in that picture.  Headers had to be custom made, the primaries were used from the stock RR header.

The oil pan was the biggest issue for me.  In the picture below  you can see what the pan looked like stock (the engine is mounted the same in that picture).  And it would have been easy if it was as simple as cutting 3" off the bottom of the pan and welding a new bottom on it, but nothings that easy.  I have no good pictures of it, but if you can imagine in the above middle picture: the sump came down out of the engine from the left side, then was bent about 60* to the right, and back straight again.  This made it impossible to simply shorten the sump the same amount as the pan.  so I had to cut the side of the pan off, and weld in a whole new side about 2" wider so that I could cut the sump off straight.  Also the stock sump sat about 3/8" off the bottom of the pan and was held still by pins cast into the pan bottom, since I couldnt do this I cut out about 70% of the sump as you can see so that it would not cavitate (it is press fit against the bottom of the pan to hold it in place.)(Dont underestimate the difficulty of welding 1/16" aluminum plate  to 3/32" cast alum and 1/4" plate!!)

Above: Fuel storage was the next major concern.  The RR's airbox took the place of the stock fuel tank, and basically the only good place to have a tank.  The tank was the last piece fabricated so that it would not interfere with anything else, such as the rear suspension.  It is 1/16" aluminum, and it houses the stock RR fuel pump (required because it is an internally regulated 50psi, which is very hard to find from an aftermarket system without spending $300).  I removed the level sender from the pump since it made the pump about 3" taller, even then the pump is still about 7"tall.  The battery box was then welded onto the front of the tank.  It holds 2-1/4 gallons. Ater a few removals of the fuel pump I eventually bent up the 1/16" alum on the bottom of the tank so bad that I couldnt seal it anymore.  So I updated it by cutting the bottom of the tank out and replacing it with 1/4" alum and helicoils instead of the threaded rivets previously used. Below: The gauge cluster from the RR is required for the engine to run, and is also a very nice piece (once I get the speedohealer it will be even better).  A custom light/cluster mount was fabricated from 1/8" aluminum strap, nothing fancy, does the job  Added an autometer C2 electric fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on my fuel situation.

I had to build a new swingarm for several reasons.  First anyone who has a warrior or banshee with a stock axle carrier knows how big of a piece of crap it is, constantly moving around on its own changing the chain tension, not to mention the inherent weaknesses in the swingarm design for that type of carrier.  Second, welding round tube to a flat piece of steel is not very strong in the weld areas, especially if there is a lot of stress there.  (Picture above right.) So...I bought a lonestar axle carrier, and designed a new tubular swingarm.  This time I used 1-1/4" x .083 4130, largest I could use with the 1.5" carrier straps.  I didnt think one row of that would be strong enough so I made it a ladder type swinger, problem there was the chain would hit the lower bar if I didnt bend it out of the way, thats why the lower bars are not symettrical.  I also made the shock linkage bracket with 3 holes for ride heigh adjustability, now I need to figure out how to use the lower hole since the bolt is too long to go through it.

The chain tensioner was not a "necessity", but it does help out a lot, especially in my situation.  Because of the design of the swingarm it is impossible for me to run a chain slider where one would be stock  (on top right at the pivot point).  And also because of the geometry of the primary sprocket in relation to the pivot, I have quite a bit of slack at rest, but as the suspension travels the chain tightens up, forcing me to run a loose chain at rest.  This causes an issue where the chain will slap the swingarm both on decel and landing a jump, which doesnt hurt anything but the paintjob on the swinger.  The tensioner consists of a Dayco 89003 Belt tensioner pulley riding on a 1/2" bolt through a double shear 1/4" aluminum frame pivoting on bushings and a 1/4" bolt through double shear steel brackets on the frame.  It makes a lot of noise (hearing each link ride over the plastic pulley), but it keeps the chain very tight and I dont get the chain slapping the frame anymore.

Center and Below: I custom made +3" long-travel A-Arms.  The lowers are 1-1/4"x.083 DOM, the uppers are 3/4"x.065 EW.  Before you question the uppers, if you know how a SALA (short-arm long-arm, or double wishbone suspension) works, the lower is (in most cases, when the shock is mounted to the lower) the load bearing arm.  The upper is just there to "locate" the ball joint for the top of the spindle forward/back and side-to-side, it takes no "load" from the wheel in a "bending" fashion.  1/2" QA1 Rod ends were used for ball joints, and 3/8" QA1 ends were used to mount the arms to the frame.  The tie-rods are 5/8" aluminum, threaded in are 3/8" QA1 rod ends for tie-rod-ends.  The shocks are custom one-off Elka, 17" long (3" longer than stock), 5/8" shafts.  Wheel travel is ~9.5" (stock is 7.9").  Brake lines are custom made stainless-steel braided. Left: Just showing the brand new rustoleum paint job.  Everything was painted satin-black. Right: The trailer I made custom for this quad.  It is 1-3/4"x.120 EW, the outer frame is two piece mandrel bent, then welded together seamlessly so it looks like one piece.  Everything on the trailer was TIG welded out of boredom :)

Making good use of road signs is key.  Needed to protect the oil pan with the skidplate.  Used a piece of 3/16"x1" Steel strap, bent it into a U shape with 3/4" legs and welded it to the bottom of the fram for the rear mount directly under the pan.  Then just welded small steel tabs to the frame for the front mount points.  Aluminum plate is only 1/16" thick, but it will do its job of protecting the pan since there is the steel strap underneath it.

Right: New ITP Holeshot HD tires mounted on ITP T-9 wheels. Mufflers are from an '05 Yamaha R1 streetbike, they are titanium cans. A better exhaust picture is seen at the very top of the page.  The dual exhaust sounds very very cool in my opinion, when you are at lower revs you can distintcly hear the two banks firing and it sounds really neat.  I have a ton more pictures detailing more of the buildup, but dont feel like putting them all on here.  So if you have any questions or want to see more pictures email me : jonaddis84@aol.com

I bought a set of skis from a '97 SkiDoo Formula III 700 and built a set of custom spindles to mount them on the front of the quad.  The tubing is 3/4"x..120 wall DOM, the plate is 3/16" mild steel, nothing fancy but should do the trick.  I will have a set of Maxxis 4-Snows on the rear, which are supposed to grow by 40% to gain some ground clearance in deep snow, and I hear they hook amazingly in the snow.

Ive finally decided to try and cover up the airbox.  I got a little sick of looking at all the wires and injectors, and Im worried about riding in the snow and sand with nothing covering the air filter up.  Bought a 4x8 sheet of 2" thick blueboard, cut out the base design and glued 5 together to get a 3d shape.  Spent a few hours eyeballing and mearsuring, then shaving with a hacksaw blade and sanding with 60grit on a palm block.  Im pretty happy with how it has gone so far, just hope it will fit over the actual airbox once Im done laying glass over it.