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WARNING: Knitting mini-socks is addicting! For even more uses for mini-socks, as well as other mini-sock patterns, visit the Socknitter's website.
In these instructions, the numbers for fingering weight yarn come first, followed by numbers for dk/sport weight yarn in parentheses. If only one number appears, it applies to both weights of yarn. If you normally knit socks on 5 dpns, I recommend using only 4 dpns for this project because of the size.
Stitch Glossary:
A NOTE ON GAUGE AND NEEDLES: Fingering weight yarn gets about 7 to 8 stitches to the inch, on US#0-2; DK weight gets about 6 to 6.5 stitches to the inch on US#3-4. This is for sock gauge, which is usually tighter than the usual gauge for the given yarn.
CASTING ON AND START OF SOCK CUFF:
Use any fingering or dk/sport weight yarn, even leftover tapestry yarn is good for this since you don't need a lot. Using dpns appropriate to each weight of yarn, cast on 16 (12) stitches on a single needle, leaving about a foot-long tail at the cast-on. Knit 1x1 rib (K1,P1) back on the first row and then divide evenly over 3 dpns and join for circular knitting.
SOCK LEG:
Knit 1x1 rib for 4 rounds; then knit stockinette for 6-8 rounds. If you want to refine this, you can cast on 2 or 4 less stitches for the rib and then increase the same # of stitches when you start the stockinette portion.
SET UP FOR HEEL:
Place half your stitches on needle #1. Divide the rest on needles #2 and #3 for the instep.
Knit to the end of needle #1.
Purl back to the beginning of needle #1.HEEL FLAP:
Row 1: knit to end of row.
Row 2: purl to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more for a total of 5 rows.TURN THE HEEL (Fingering weight):
Row 1: knit to the middle stitch and then ssk the next 2 stitches, turn.
Row 2: Slip 1 pwise, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Slip 1 pwise, ssk the next 2 stitches, turn.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
2 stitches remain on heel needle (needle #1).TURN THE HEEL (DK/Sport weight):
Row 1: knit to the middle stitch and then ssk the next 2 stitches, turn.
Row 2: Slip 1 pwise, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Slip 1 pwise, ssk the last 2 stitches, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 pwise, p2tog.
2 stitches remain on heel needle (needle #1).GUSSET:
Knit across the 2 heel stitches, then pick up 7 (5) stitches along the left side of the heel flap, knit across instep stitches, pick up 7 (5) stitches along the right side of heel flap.
Rearrange your stitches so that you now have 8 (6) stitches (1 heel & 7 [5] picked-up stitches) on needle #1, 8 (6) instep stitches on needle #2, and 8 (6) stitches (7 [5] picked-up and 1 heel stitch) on needle #3.
K one round.
Round 1:
- Needle #1:k to last 3 sts,k2tog, k1.
- Needle #2: k
- Needle #3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit
Repeat these two rounds until you have the same number of stitches as you started with. (16 for fingering weight, 12 for dk/sport weight.)FOOT:
Knit 6-8 rounds.
(OK-if you've been doing this right, at this point the bottom of your sock should look like a head from Easter Island.)DECREASE FOR TOE (Fingering weight):
Round 1:
- Needle #1: k1, k2tog, k1.
- Needle #2: k1, ssk, k to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1.
- Needle #3: k1, ssk, k1.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3:
- Needle #1: k2tog, k1.
- Needle #2: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1.
- Needle #3: k1, ssk.
Round 4: Knit
DECREASE FOR TOE (DK/Sport weight):
Round 1:
- Needle #1: k2tog, k1.
- Needle #2: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1.
- Needle #3: k1, ssk.
Round 2: Knit.
If you want to graft the toe stitches together, k to end of needle # 1 and then graft. If not, just break off the end of the yarn, leaving about 4 inches of tail and thread it through a tapestry needle and then weave the needle through the remaining stitches and pull together for a "star" toe. Either are anatomically "correct".
After you weave in the tail for the toe on the inside of the sock, go back and thread the tail from the cast-on through a tapestry needle and join the gap in the cast-on at the top of the sock. Use the remaining tail to crochet a chain for hanging or add a tassel or chord. Knitter's choice.
©2000 Jennifer Tocker
This pattern may be freely distributed in any medium as long as the pattern and this copyright notice remain intact and no profit is made from its distribution or use.
Email me at yarnie22 AT yahoo.com
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This page last updated on 19 February 2001.
