| (Economical) EFI Anti-Surge Tank |
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| 383 Chevy - TPIS Mini Ram II - Trick Flow Heads - Custom air intake |
| Custom One of a kind aluminum Rally look-a-likes 13" Baer front brakes |
| Custom 3" to X style crossover then 2.5" back With Convt. support brace! |
| Landrum Height Adjusters and Hyperco Coil Springs |
| Custom seats - Indash CD - Custom Shifter |
| Great photo of unassembled pieces |
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| Easy EFI anti-surge tank with internal fuel pump. Economical alternative to custom fuel tank. |
| Update! |
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| I've had fuel injection on my car for many years, even before the rebuild featured on this website. And I've always just had an inline fuel pump and the stock tank with the only change being a return line added. But I've always hated having to keep the fuel tank more than 1/3 full to keep the fuel pickup from being uncovered around corners or on acceleration or stopping. I had several options: EFI Fuel Tank/System Options: - Custom fuel tank with internal baffling and possibly an internal fuel pump. $$$$ - Stock tank modified with fuel sump or baffling. $$$ - Custom anti-surge tank between tank and high pressere inline pump. Must have a second pump before the anti-surge tank.$$ - Make my own anti-surge tank, and include an internal fuel pump.$ |
| My economical Anti-Surge Tank: - Made from an inline water filter housing purchased for $15 at Home Depot. (There are many brands of these, check the web.) - Allows use of an internal fuel pump, which are much cheaper than equivalent inline pumps. (Note - you don't have to use an internal fuel pump, just use a rubber hose long enough to reach the bottom of the tank. If you don't use an intermal pump, you can use a shorter 5" housing instead of the 10" housing pictured here.) |
| GE SmartWater filter housing. Notice O-ring seal. Assorted fittings. |
| Final assembly photo. |
| Notice the tube sticking down from the center of the lid. This would normally fit into the installed filter. But I threaded a 3/4"npt female fitting over it. I then treaded a 5/16" hose barb fitting into that and attached fuel injection fuel line to that. I cut the fuel line just long enough for the fuel pump to sit almost at the bottom of the housing. (If you use an external fuel pump, just cut the hose long enough to reach the bottom itself.) The fuel pump I used is a 255lph Mustang intake pump purchased from Summit. |
| Electrical: For electical connections to the internal pump, I drilled and tapped two holes for 6/32 brass screws. I used the connector that came with the pump and soldered ring terminals to the ends of the two wires. I threaded the screws from inside the housing through the terminals. I put telflon sealant on the screws and tightened a nut on the outside of the housing. Another nut will secure the external wires to power and ground the pump. (This step can be skipped if you don't use an internal fuel pump.) |
| Fittings: I drilled and tapped two 1/4"npt holes in the lid for 3/8" hose barb fittings for a return to the tank and a return from the engine. The houseing lid already has one inlet fitting and one outlet fitting. |
| Note that I used the fuel pickup sock filter included with the pump, I just bent it slightly to fit in the housing. I originally planned to thread a rod trough the lid to hold the pump, but with the pickup sock touching the housing and the short hose connected to the lid, it is well supported, and doesn't move around at all. |
| Fuel Pumps (The one drawback, two are required.): The one drawback to an anti-surge tank is the need for an extra fuel pump to get fuel to it from the fuel tank. I used the inline pump that I had been using to feed the engine to now feed the anti-surge tank. A high pressure pump isn't needed for this, but I already had this one. It feeds fuel to the anti-surge tank and the excess returns to the fuel tank via the return line. I installed a new Mustang internal fuel pump inside the anti-surge tank to feed the engine. |
| Mounting: I mounted it under my Camaro in front of the fuel tank. I had planned to mount it vertically to ensure the pickup would never be uncovered. But it hung lower than I wanted. So I tested it mounted horizontally with the bottom angled down just slightly and this worked fine and keeps it totally out of sight. It could be mounted anywhere between the fuel tank and engine.that you can find room. Note: If you mount the unit horizontally as I did, be sure and mount it with the fitting labeled "IN" towards the top and use that as the return to the tank. That way any air will rise to this port and be forced out and back to the tank. If you mount it vertically any fitting but the "OUT" can be used for a return. |
| Line Routing: -The "OUT" line should go to the engine if using an internal pump, or to the inlet of the high pressure inline pump otherwise. -The output from the pump feeding the unit from the fuel tank should go to any of the fittings except "OUT". -There should be a return line from the engine. It should also go to any fitting except "OUT". Note, if you are using a high volume pump to supply the anti-surge tank, then this return line can just go back to the fuel tank, and you will only need to add one new fitting to the unit. But then if you only have one return into the fuel tank, then this will have to be tee'd into the return from the anti-surge tank, and both connected to the single return to the fuel tank. -As noted above under the mounting section, if you mount the unit horizontally, you must use the "IN" port as the return to the fuel tank, and mount so this port is the hightest point so any air will be forced out and back to the fuel tank. -If not using an internal pump as pictured here, you must still attach a hose barb to the center oulet port inside the lid and run fuel line to the bottom of the housing. If mounting horizonally, use a curved piece of hose and make it curve to the side that will be mounted at the bottom. (Lowest point.) |
| Housing Notes: -Most housings I saw on the internet were made from polypropylene. This is the same stuff that some gas tanks are made from, so it should be safe. But I still recommend testing before using. I filled my filter housing with gas and plugged the fittings and let it sit for a week and made sure nothing deteriorated or anything before I ever started any fabrication. BE SAFE! - As mentioned above, there are shorter 5" housing that should work fine if you don't plan to use an internal fuel pump. (Should be easier to mount.) |
| Update: 01/16/2007 - This system has now been on the car for over three years. During this time, the car has completed three full Hot Rod Power Tours and several other long distance trips. This system is still installed and working fine with no problems. I haven't even tweaked anything except to tighten one of the fittings that leaked very slightly after a couple of years. |
| (01/16/2006 - See Update below) |