Welcome to Get
Answers! The Candlemaking FAQ
This FAQ is growing by the day, so
please if you have any question/answer you want to add, email me.
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Beginner |
Intermediate |
Advanced |
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Wicking Section |
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Basic Mold Questions
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I forgot to spray mold release; do I have to remelt my
candles? |
Basic Container Questions
Basic Coloring Questions
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How do I clean liquid dye stains off my
hands and countertop? |
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Basic Wicking Questions
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Ok I looked at the wicking chart…now I am more
confused. What do all those
numbers mean? |
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Basic Fragrance Oil Questions
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Ok, I’m testing but I can’t smell my candles
anymore, what’s wrong? |
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Beginner’s
Start Here:
I want to start making candles. Where do I start?
- Typically, people start by
ordering a kit from a candlemaking supplier. The kits range anywhere from $20-
$50 dollars each. Each kit
should include all supplies to start you on your venture and basic
instructions on how to make candles.
Kits are very cost effective and will give you a taste of what
it’s like to make candles.
Which is better
container or votive/pillar kits?
- It really depends on your
preference. Container candles
require a glass/metal container to hold the wax while it burns. Votive candles can be freestanding
or require a glass votive holder.
Pillar candles stand alone and can be any height or width depending
on the mold used. Which is
easier to make? Well none of
them really. Container candles
can have just as many problems as votive candles do, while pillar candles might
send you screaming into the night, or vice versa. It really depends on which you
prefer. If you love glass
containers, order a container kit.
If you want a votive centerpiece on your table, order a votive
kit. If you dream of a
romantic bedroom filled with pillar candles, order a pillar kit.
Paraffin, Soy or
Gel? Which is better?
- Ah, this is a ticking time bomb
question. The answer is very
simple, whichever you prefer.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of wax and in
the end, neither is better than the other. Soy wax has an advantage in that you
can melt it in your microwave, but paraffin is more diverse, while gel is
clear and embeds show much nicer.
As for burning characteristics both have their exceptions and their
own problems. I suggest you
read about each one in the Wax
section before making your decision.
I bought my kit,
what else do I need?
- There are a few other items that
you will need in order to get started. While some of these items are
optional a few are not. You
don’t have to spend a bundle, most of the time you’ve already
got some of these items in your house. I’ve broken them down into 2
categories:
- Essential:
- Bound Book or a Binder or a
Computer.
- A bound book or a 3 ring
binder or a computer is essential because it allows you to keep all of
your notes and recipes in one place. Some people prefer to keep all
their notes on a computer, I prefer the book because it is more
portable and I don’t care if wax gets on it, can’t say the
same about my computer.
- Glue.
- Glue from a glue gun, glue dots
or wick stick-ums and/or silicone glue are essential to glue down the
wick in your container candle.
Make sure it is high temperature glue.
- Floor mat.
- Yep you WILL get wax on your
floors. No matter how
careful you are, wax gets everywhere.
- Heat resisting pads.
- Oven mitts or heat pads. Go to the dollar store and pick
up a couple of each.
Remember everything that you use with wax needs to be designated
as just for wax. The
cheaper the better because everything WILL be coated with wax and color
and oil.
- Mold sealer.
- It should have come with your
pillar kit, if it didn’t you need it to keep the wax inside the
mold and not spraying out the bottom of the wicking hole. You can improvise by using
plumbers putty, tacky tape (teacher’s tape) or metal tape. Some people use metal tape to
tape over the mold sealer or just to tape the wicking hole. Plumber’s putty and tacky
tape can take the place of mold sealer.
- Non stick cooking spray.
- This is used as a mold
release. While some people
still prefer to use a silicone release spray, I prefer to use PAM or
the generic kind. Simply
spray then wipe up the excess with a paper towel.
- Old Clothing or an Apron.
- You WILL get wax on your
clothes. It is a good idea to designate an old t-shirt or an old apron
while you are pouring wax.
- Old cookie sheet.
- You use the old cookie sheet
to heat your molds (votive and pillar) and clean your pour pots. It WILL get wax on it, so
designate it for making candles and not cookies.
- Old pot.
- This will be your double
boiler.
- Paper towels for cleanup.
- Buy the cheaper ones since you
WILL use a lot of them. I
buy Scott Paper Towels in packages of either 12 or 24.
- Rubbing Alcohol.
- A very good cleaner for
spilled fragrance oil. Also
good to clean your measuring spoons after you’ve measured/weighed
out your oil.
- Scale.
- A scale is the most essential
item. You measure wax,
fragrance oil and additives using the scale. My advice is to get a digital
scale, but you can use a plastic food scale as long as you protect the
plastic from fragrance oil.
You want a scale that measures in oz or grams if you are
metrically inclined.
- Scraper.
- This can be an old credit card
or some other hard plastic scraper. It’s used to scrape
wax that missed the wax paper.
- Stainless steel measuring spoons
or cups.
- You use these to measure
fragrance oil. You want stainless steel because fragrance oil has a
tendency to eat plastic.
- Stirrers.
- Now there are varying opinions
on what you can use to stir your wax. I use wooden chopsticks, others
wooden spoons. Wood
stirrers are the best because wax doesn’t stick to them as much
as plastic or stainless steel; provided you wipe them off the minute
you don’t need them anymore.
- Thermometer.
- It is essential that you buy a
thermometer if your kit didn’t come with one. You need to know the temperature
of your wax. You can buy a
candy thermometer or the expensive digital one if you want. I prefer the candy ones because
they are cheap.
- Wax Paper or Parchment
Paper.
- This will help keep your
kitchen counters or your work area free from wax coverage. It’s also handy to cut
color blocks on and save your counters from candle dye.
- Optional:
- Heat gun.
- Heat guns are very handy to
have. You can use them to
clean your pouring pots, heat your molds, smooth the tops of your
candles, etc. They range
from $25-$50 and you can find them in the paint section of your local
hardware store. Most come
with paint scrapers which is an added bonus.
- Mint.
- Fresh sprigs of mint either
placed along your baseboards or in the rafters of your house will keep
mice from eating your wax (if you don’t want to store it in
plastic). That is if you
have mice. If you
don’t, don’t worry about it. You can buy fresh mint or even
use mint essential oil, a little goes a long way.
- Mold Cleaner.
- This stuff is great to clean
molds and pouring pots.
It’s pretty cheap at some suppliers and often sold by the
pound.
- Paper bags.
- As cleanup for wax on
absorbent materials (carpet, clothing...etc). Simply place the paper bag over
the spill then apply heat from a warm iron OR a heat gun. The paper bags will soak up the
melted wax.
- Plastic bins
- These are used to store your
wax and keep it clean from dust, pet fur, human hair etc. You can use buckets, plastic
storage bins or even large garbage cans. As long as they’ve got a
top to keep out stuff you don’t want in your wax they will
work. They are also handy
to have because mice like to eat wax coated cardboard (don’t ask
me why, I have no idea).
- Presto Pot.
- A Presto Pot is a good low
cost melter for wax.
- Wax lifter.
- If you prefer chemicals to
elbow grease, this will take out the wax in your carpet. It might damage some materials
so that is why it is optional.
I got my kit but it
says I need a double boiler. What
is a double boiler?
- A double boiler is very
simple. Simply take an old
pot, fill it ½ way with water and set it on your stove to
boil. You will then set your
pouring pot (filled with wax) in the water to melt your wax. Make sure that your pouring pot is
NOT sitting on the bottom of your boiler, if it is, add more water until
it floats. I’d advise
that you use very OLD pots because wax will get everywhere.
Why do I need a
double boiler?
- A very common question. The reason you use a double boiler
is because boiling water will not increase the temperature of your wax to
a dangerous level. Water boils
at 212oF (100oC) at sea level. The boiling action releases excess
energy (steam) to keep the water at a constant temperature.
Why can’t I use
direct heat on the stove to melt the wax?
- Because unlike water, WAX DOES
NOT BOIL to release energy, it simply gets hotter and hotter until it
bursts into flame (called the Flash Point). Most wax flash points average
around 500oF; an easy temperature (and quick) to reach if you
use direct heat from your stove.
So unless you like kitchen fires I’d advise that you use a
double boiler OR a Presto Pot.
One other note, most pouring pots are designed to withstand
excessive heat, however using direct heat may ruin your pouring pots.
What is a Presto
Pot and where do I get one?
- Presto Pots or Kitchen Kettles
are deep fryers that have a temperature gauge on them. Candlemakers have been using these
pots to melt up to 7 pounds of wax at one time. You can find them at your local
chain store (Wal-Mart, Target, Shopko...etc) for about $20. It is very important that if you
get a Presto Pot you also buy a candle thermometer and don’t turn
the temperature gauge up past 250oF, no matter how tempting it
might be if you are impatient for wax to melt.
Do I need an extra
thermometer with my Presto Pot?
Doesn’t it have a gauge?
- Yes you do. The reason is that while there is a
temperature gauge on the Presto Pot, you need to be able to determine
exactly how hot your wax is before you pour. The gauge on the Presto Pot is in
increments of 20 degrees and you need increments of at most 5
degrees. Remember Presto Pots
are designed for heating oil at a much higher temperature than wax. You don’t have to spend a ton
of money on a thermometer. A
simple candy thermometer works just fine, and you can get them for around
$5 at your local chain store.
Are there other
types of melters besides a double boiler and a Presto Pot?
- Yes there are lots of types of
melters out there that are designed for melting wax. Water jacketed melters are the most
common. If you are just
getting started, these might be a bit much for you. If you plan on starting a business,
then prepare to shell out anywhere from $500-$2500 per professional
melter.
What do I put in my presto
pot?
- This is personal preference. Many people only melt wax; weigh
out the wax into their pouring pot, then adding necessary additives, dye
and FO. You can also melt wax and add UV, other additives, dye and
FO.
How do I clean out my pouring pot and or my presto pot?
- Paper towels. Lots of them!
Basic Wax Questions
Where is the best place to buy wax?
- Since wax is heavy to ship, the
best place is the supplier closest to you. Here is a fantastic resource for
finding suppliers in your state.
Suppliers by State.
Alright I got my kit! I now have a slab of wax, how to I cut
it?
- There are various ways to cut
your wax into useable pieces.
And of course depending on the type of wax there are different
techniques, here are a couple of effective ones (done safely).
- Votive/Pillar Wax Slabs: Ok go get 2 garbage bags and a hammer;
place your wax inside one bag, then put that bag inside the other. Now
find some concrete. Place the
double bagged wax slab on the concrete and hammer the crap out of it
until it breaks apart. You can
leave large chunks or break it into smaller if you want. This method is WONDERFUL for
taking out that extra stress in your life. Make sure that you close of the opening
of the bags because wax WILL fly.
- Container Wax Slabs: Go get a putty knife and a
hammer. The putty knife
should be a metal one, not plastic. If you don’t have one, find a
very old knife and commission it for candles from now on. Very carefully carve the slab into
usable pieces using the putty knife or the regular knife. Hammer lightly on the edges to get
it to go through the wax easier.
- If you want to spend some money
you can order a Hot Knife to cut through your wax. They range from
$40-$150 depending on what type it is. You can get them on Ebay or your supplier
should have them.
It seems obvious but what the heck is
a melting point?
- Good question. The melting point of your wax is
the minimum temperature that will keep all of your wax in a liquid
state. Most waxes have a
melting point between 120-165oF depending on the type of wax it
is. As a general rule;
container waxes have a low melting point, while overdip/cut and carve
waxes have a high melting point.
Natural waxes like soy typically have a low melting point while
beeswax has a high melting point of right around 158 degrees.
Where do I find out the melting
point/flash point of my wax?
- Most suppliers will tell you the
melting point of your wax right on their websites, if not on the wax box
itself. However, if you
can’t find it, try looking up the manufacturer’s website. They should have what is called an
MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).
MSDS’s contain very valuable information and it is a good
idea to print it out and keep it on hand. While most of the information is
for the EPA and the fire department; if you look through the initial pages
it should tell you what the melting point and flash point of your wax is.
What the heck is a Flash Point?
- Another good question. Flash points are simply the lowest
temperature your wax or fragrance oil vapor will ignite in the air. What does that mean? Well it’s the temperature
your wax or fragrance oil will catch fire; in the case of waxes on its
own. Most wax flash points
average around 500oF, while fragrance oil varies from 160-210oF.
Does that mean I’m safe as long
as my wax is under its flash point?
- No. Waxes should not be heated to over
215oF for safety reasons.
Just because your wax may have a flash point of say 400oF
doesn’t mean you want to heat it to that temperature. For one thing, it will smell awful
and start to smoke and before you know it, POOF! your kitchen is on
fire. Besides, most pouring
temperatures are below 200oF.
Do I have to heat my wax to 200oF?
- Goodness no. You can heat your wax to 10 degrees
above your pouring temp if you want.
Most candlemakers heat their wax to about 10-20 degrees above their
pouring temperature, that way it gives them time to work with their wax.
Ok, what is a pouring
temperature? Where do I find it?
- Pouring temperatures are just
what it says. The temperature
of the wax you pour to make your candles. Now, depending on the wax, pour
temps can be as high as 190oF or as low as 135oF. Why the range? Well pouring temps are very
tricky. It depends on the type
of wax you use and the different type of effects you can create based on
how hot or cold you pour your wax.
It also can vary due to the weather, how hot or cold your work area
is and how much time you need to play with the wax to get the right
color. If you are just beginning,
I suggest that you follow the manufacturer’s directions on your
pouring temperatures. You can
find pour temps on your supplier’s site or even the
manufacturer’s if your supplier doesn’t have it listed.
Is pouring temperature that big of a
deal?
- Yes it is. Pouring temp is a key factor in how
your candle looks when complete.
If you pour too cool, your candles might mottle, too hot and you
might get cracks (called jump lines).
You can also create some very neat effects all based on your
pouring temperature. For more
information, see the advanced FAQ.
How do I know who the manufacturer of
my wax is?
- It should be listed on your
supplier’s website and on the packaging of your wax. If it isn’t try emailing your
supplier directly and asking.
Some suppliers have their own blends of waxes. If you are using a supplier blend,
email them and ask for a copy of the MSDS and their recommendations on
pouring temps, melt temps, flash point...etc.
I bought some wax
at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Ben Franklin or JoAnne’s. What is it and who makes it?
- If you bought the slab wax with
no packaging it is probably made by Yaley and its melt point is about 135
degrees. Its straight paraffin
with no additives and is good for making votives and pillars (with the
right wicking). You will need
additives in order to get it to hold more than 4% oil. If your slab comes with Crafty Candles
or some other name like that, there’s a good chance that it was made
by Yaley. It should say the
melting point on the packaging.
It is also a straight paraffin that is designed for votive and or
pillar candles, and does require additives to hold more oil.
- If your wax is in a plastic box
it should say for container candles.
It’s either soy, gel (clear) or paraffin container wax and
typically made by either Yaley or Candlewic.
- Crafty Candles is a division of
Yaley. Country Lane or Soap
Expressions is a division of Candlewic.
How do I know if
its container or votive/pillar wax?
- Container waxes are typically
soft due to the lower melting point needed in a container candle. Votive and pillar waxes are pretty
hard while embed and cut and curl waxes are very hard. A good rule of thumb is the softer
the wax the lower the melting point.
A quick way to tell is to put your thumbnail in the solid wax. If your thumbnail leaves a mark or
your nail goes through the wax then you’ve probably got container
wax.
- My nail didn’t go through:
- Well, you’ve got
votive/pillar/cut-n-curl/embed/hurricane wax then. The only way to tell
them apart is to melt them slowly and determine the melting point. Then go look it up on the
manufacturer’s website to see.
This is EXTREMELY tricky to do because each wax might differ by
only a couple of degrees.
I’d advise that you label your waxes if you are working with
different types. If you
don’t want to do the melting point experiment, make a candle the
way you normally would and then test burn it. If you’ve used harder wax,
you will notice a big difference in the way it burns.
Basic Mold
Questions
I ordered votive molds, how do I get
these suckers apart?
- First thing you want to do is be
very careful of the top edges of the votive molds…they are razor
sharp and WILL cut you, it’s a good idea to wear gloves while
separating. There are a couple
of techniques to getting them apart.
- Fill your sink with very hot
water (you can use boiling if you want) and a little dish soap. Plunk those molds into the hot
water for a while (until you can get your hands in there to grab the
little suckers) and very carefully pull them apart. You might have to use pliers. Rinse and allow to air dry when
you’ve got them separated.
You can also rub them with some alcohol to get all the water off
if you are concerned about rust.
- OR you can toss those molds into
the freezer for about ½ hour and then try to pry them apart with
the pliers. If the freezer
doesn’t work, try boiling water and vice versa.
- The good news is that once they
are apart, they will separate much easier the next time. You can stack them after
you’ve used them once and shouldn’t have to worry about them
sticking.
What is mold release? Why do I need
it?
- Mold release is a substance that
does not allow the wax to fully adhere to your mold and aids in getting
your candles OUT of the molds.
It’s normally sold as a silicone spray from suppliers but
most candlemakers use PAM or any non-stick cooking spray (butter flavor is
optional). I use the cooking
spray and then wipe out the excess with some paper towels.
I forgot to spray
mold release; do I have to remelt my candles?
- In most cases the answer is
NO. If you’ve used your
molds before then all you have to do is toss that sucker into the freezer
for a bit, the wax will contract enough to release the candle from the
mold. If it’s the first
time you’ve used your molds, try the freezer, if that doesn’t
work better remelt your candles.
What is this hole
for on the bottom of my pillar mold?
- The hole is for the wick. Pillars are poured upside down for the
most part and the hole is so the wick can extend past the hole and not be
buried in the top of your pillar.
You need to secure the wick through the hole using mold sealer,
making sure the sealer covers any and all escape routes the wax might
take. There is nothing worse
than a bad seal at the bottom of your pillar mold, wax will run out of
your mold and make a mess.
My kit came with
pins, what are these things?
- Wicking pins are handy little
devices that take place of the wick while your candle is setting up. You need to spray these with mold
release and make sure they are straight (check it with a level if you are
unsure).
- For pillars, place a good amount
of mold sealer at the base of the pin, thread it through your pillar mold
and then shove that mold down onto the pin so that the sealer seals up
any holes at the bottom. IT
IS VITAL THAT THE PIN IS STRAIGHT IN THE MOLD. Remember it will take the place of
the wick, so you don’t want it crooked. This is where you use your handy
dandy level, just level the mold on the pin if the pin is straight your
wick will be straight in your candle.
- For votives, the pins are
designed to sit inside your votive cups. Spray with mold release and plop
them into the cups. They must
be straight too...so check them with the level.
- After your candles are set and
cool (and leveled), simply slide the candles off the pin, thread your
wicking through and secure on the bottom by shoving the tab into the wax a
little or with a sticker.
How do I remelt
already set candles in the mold?
- Simple, set your oven on 200
degrees. Break out your
candlemaking cookie sheet, set your candles in their molds on the sheet
and shove them in the oven.
It’s a good idea to set the timer at 15 minutes, that way you
will check. REMEMBER to WATCH your candles! DO NOT LEAVE THEM IN THE OVEN THEY
WILL CATCH FIRE. When melted
just pour the wax (wear an oven mitt~nother commissioned item for
candlemaking) back into your pour pot and wipe out the mold with some
paper towels. It’s a
good idea to pull the wicks from the wax, wipe them down a bit and you can
re-use them.
Basic Container
Questions
Do I really need to secure my wick to
the bottom of the container? How do I do that?
- Yep. A secure wick will ensure that your
wick will not slide to the side of the container, break the glass (or
overheat the metal) and spill wax creating a major fire hazard. You can use a high temp glue gun,
silicone glue (takes 24 hours to dry), high temp glue dots or wick
stick-ums.
- If your kit came with wick
stick-ums great! They are used
to secure the wick to the bottom center of your container BEFORE you pour
wax. Simply secure each dot to
the bottom of your wicking tab and then to the bottom of your container.
How do I keep the wick straight?
- A tricky one. Keeping a wick straight while the
wax is setting up is one of the hardest things to do. Most people believe that if the
wick is straight while pouring it will remain straight while setting. This isn’t necessarily
true. As wax cools it
contracts. That contraction
will pull the wick out of alignment.
The easiest way to keep your wicks straight is to grab a pencil,
chopstick or other long straight light item, and a clothespin. Wrap your wick (be careful not to
pull it too much or it will come loose from the bottom) around the pencil
and secure it with the clothespin.
Now lay the pencil across your container, center your wick and pour
your wax. Leave the pencil
there until the wax has completely set.
How do I know the
wick is in the center?
- Well you can buy a wick centering
device or just eyeball it. I
prefer to eyeball it.
I’ve run out
of containers that came with the kit, now what can I use?
- Pretty much anything. There are 2 requirements though,
the container must be able to withstand the heat without cracking (that
means NO plastic) and it must be leak free.
Can I use those cute
pails I see at Wal-Mart, Michaels…etc?
- Sure you can. Make sure the bottom and sides of
the pails are sealed. You can
test the seals by filling the pail with water. If water is leaking; wax will
to. To seal up the bottoms,
solder works the best. Take
your soldering iron and some solder and go over the bottom and sides to
seal it. Some people use Mod
Podge, but in my experience solder is faster, cheaper and will hold
longer. If the pail is
painted, simply paint over the solder with the same color.
Do I have to
pre-heat my containers?
- There is much debate on this
one. I say no, other’s
say yes. I prefer NOT to
pre-heat my containers because otherwise the glue will melt and my wick
will be off-center. Those that
prefer to pre-heat normally use silicone clue to secure their wicks and
don’t have to worry so much about it melting before they pour the
wax. Unless you really want
to, you don’t really have to pre-heat your containers. It is completely up to you. I’d try it both ways and see
which works best for you.
How do I preheat my
containers?
- There are 2 ways to preheat your
containers. The first is to
turn your oven on 150-190 degrees, grab your candlmaking cookie sheet, put
your containers on the sheet and shove them in the oven until they are hot
(about 10-15 minutes). The
second is to use your heat gun, blast the containers right before you pour
your wax into them.
What are wet
spots? Or I have wet spots, how do
I get rid of them?
- Wet spots are places on the
inside of your container where the wax didn’t adhere all the
way. They look like the wax is
wet or slick. Let me stress
this now, wet spots are a fact of life. You can either accept that or you
can worry yourself to death over it.
If you want to worry, there are 2 things you can do to reduce wet
spots; lower your pouring temperature and slightly preheat your jars. That’s about it.
Basic Coloring
Questions
Can’t I use food coloring for my
candles?
- Nope. Food coloring is water based. You want oil based coloring for
your candles.
- Crayons are oil based but they
will clog your wick. Plus, you
won’t get the deep dark colors that blocks or liquid dye can offer.
What about
artist’s oil paints?
- Artist paints will clog your
wick, causing your candle to smoke and also will give off some very
harmful vapors when lit. Plus,
they are more expensive than color blocks or liquid dye.
Which is better,
blocks or liquids?
- Another debated question. It really is personal
preference. There are new
liquid colors coming onto the market every day so the selection is
catching up to color blocks.
Liquid is a bit more expensive than the blocks, but it lasts a lot
longer. In the long run liquid
is probably your better investment.
Liquid also has the advantage of allowing reproduction in strength
and shade by counting the number of drops you add. Blocks on the other hand can give
you a larger variety of shades and colors, but sometimes it is very hard
to reproduce the same color using blocks.
What is a color
wheel? Do I really need one?
- A color wheel is handy to have
but you don’t necessarily need one if you know how to mix
colors. If you don’t,
then get the wheel and it will tell you.
How do I know what
color my candle is going to be?
- There is a very simple test you
can do while your wax is in your pouring pot. Take a piece of wax paper, put it
onto a white sheet of paper and carefully place a few drops of your
colored wax onto the wax paper.
I use wax paper because it prevents the white paper from soaking up
the melted wax. Wait for it to
dry and it will tell you what your candle color is going to be, now
depending on how much you dropped and your wax your candle might be
slightly lighter or darker than your drop test.
How do
I clean liquid dye stains off my hands and countertop?
- Goo Gone found in most grocery stores does an excellent job of
removing liquid dye stains.
Basic Wicking
Questions
What does a wick do
exactly?
- It wicks or draws the liquid wax
to fuel the flame. As the
liquid gets closer to the flame it vaporizes thus adds fuel to the
fire. Most people don’t
realize that it is the vapors of the wax that are flammable, not the
liquid. You can set fire to
liquid wax, provided that it has enough vapor coming off of it. Hence why flash points should not
be reached when melting wax. A
wick essentially controls the fire by feeding the flame small amounts of
vapor at a time.
- Ah a very good question. Wicks are generally made out of
cotton, paper or hemp. Now
here is the tricky part: wicks
can have a paper/zinc core that is surrounded by cotton. Or they can be cotton with paper
threads running through them.
The cotton can be braided, either in a square or flat or it can be
part of the core of the wick.
Hemp wicks are typically just braided, either flat or in a
square. Confused yet? Here is an excellent resource for
wicks. I suggest you put it
into your favorites and refer to it from time to time: Wicking
chart.
What does primed
mean?
- A primed wick means that it has a
coating of general use wax over the wicking material. This allows for the wick to catch
fire easier as it has a little fuel until the candle starts to melt.
Ok I looked at the
wicking chart…now I am more confused. What do all those numbers mean?
- The first set of numbers is the
thickness of the wick, the larger the number, the thicker the wick.
- The second set of numbers is the
speed at which the string goes through the wicking machine gear, the
faster it goes through, the tighter the wick and the slower the burn.
- The third set of numbers is the
code for the temperature of the wax as the wick goes through the various
gears.
- Thanks to Taylored
Concepts for that information.
- In general the thicker the wick
the faster the burn (great for larger diameter candles) and the tighter
the weave the slower the burn (great for smaller diameter candles).
Basic Additive
Questions:
- Vybar is an additive that
increases the opacity and oil retention of your wax. Its normally sold in pellet form
and there are different types depending on what the application of the
additive is.
- Vybar 103 is a high melt point
vybar it will increase the opacity of your wax and lock in scent and
color. Typically 103 is used
in Pillar/Cut and Curl/Hurricane waxes. Normal usage is 1 teaspoon-1
tablespoon per pound of wax.
- Vybar 260 is a lower melt point
vybar also used to increase the opacity and the hardness of your wax to
lock in oil and color.
Typically used in votive and container waxes. Normal usage is 1 teaspoon-1
tablespoon per pound of wax.
- Because Vybar reduces mottling in
candles, it is a common additive in blended waxes. If you are looking to mottle your
pillar candles, make sure your wax does not include Vybar.
- Overuse of Vybar will reduce
scent throw, so be sure to test before you add it to your line.
- Stearine is a veggie additive
(palm) that is used to increase oil retention and the melting point of
your wax. Typical use is 1-3
Tablespoons per pound of wax.
- Overuse of stearine will cause
your candles to flake and will reduce scent throw. This is another one you better test
thoroughly before you add it to your line.
Do I need to add
Vybar and Stearine?
- NO. One or the other will be fine. Vybar is a little more forgiving
than stearine, but stearine is cheaper. It depends on what results you
really want. If you want
vibrant colors, use Vybar. If
you want slower burn times, use Stearine.
What about Crisco?
- For all intents and purposes,
Crisco is soybean oil. That is
not to say its cheap soy wax because it isn’t that at all. Crisco is supposed to give better
adhesion to the glass in container candles, but in my opinion all it does
is clog the wick and produce black smoke. If you are really worried about wet
spots, lower your pour temp and preheat your containers. Best leave Crisco in the kitchen
cabinet where it belongs.
LOL. If you are dead
set on trying it you use 1-3 tablespoons per pound of wax.
What about
Petroleum Jelly?
- Petroleum jelly is another one
best left in the cabinet (medicine this time). It, like Crisco is supposed to give
better adhesion to the jars of your candles and also like Crisco it smokes
like a chimney and clogs the wick.
If you are dead set on trying it, use 1-3 tablespoons per pound of
wax.
Mineral Oil?
- Mineral oil is used to create
mottling or snow flaking in candles.
It works VERY well, however, if your wax is preblended with vybar
it will NOT work. Typical use
is 1-3 tablespoons per pound of wax.
Microcrystalline
Pellets?
- Microcrystalline wax pellets are
normally used as an overdip to protect pillars/cutncarve/hurricane
shells. Normally these will
dry clear OR slightly white but the thin layer leaves a hard protective
shell around whatever is dipped into it. Microcrystalline waxes have a
higher melt point than paraffin and are often blended with hurricane or
embed waxes.
Basic Fragrance Oil
(FO) Questions
- Fragrance oils are complex
chemical solutions that may or may not contain an essential oil depending
on the scent.
- Depending on the chemical
composition FO’s may be classified as body safe for soaps and bath
and body products. It is
imperative that you find out if an oil is safe BEFORE using it in soap or
bath and body products.
- Fragrance oils are flammable by
themselves, if superheated above the flash point. If you are making gel candles, the
flash point of your FO is very important.
- FO’s can be cut with DPG
for incense and potpourri making.
- FO’s can not be diluted in
water unless they are first mixed with a FO modifier. So don’t pour it down your sink! Toss the bottle, oil and all.
- FO’s LOVE PLASTIC. Low density ethylene, propylene and
some hard plastics will be destroyed by FO’s. It’s a good idea
to keep your oils away from anything plastic that you want to keep.
- FO’s will lose their
strength over time, IF they are exposed to air (if you leave the top off
the bottle). There is some
debate over the shelf life of oils.
As long as they are stored in a dark cool place, they should last
for years. However, I’ve
had oils go bad on me in less than 6 months and some I’ve had for
over 4 years. It all depends
on the stability of the oil’s chemical components and how they are
stored. I suggest you get a dark
plastic box to keep your oil bottles in, or use an enclosed cabinet.
- In candlemaking and soapmaking
FO’s should be weighed, not necessarily measured with
tablespoons. Use stainless
steel measuring cups to weigh your oils, don’t use plastic (ask me
how I know…LOL).
Are all fragrance oils the same?
- Nope. Companies normally hire perfumists
to mix their fragrance oils.
The strength and differences may vary from company to company and
from oil to oil.
- Here is a link to a scent review
where different scents by different companies are reviewed: http://scentreviewboard.obisoap.ca/index.php
- It is important to note that some
disreputable suppliers will cut their oils with mineral oil and sell them
as full strength. I suggest
you use caution when finding super cheap oils.
How do I find a
particular scent?
- There is a remarkable resource
for finding scents; it’s called the fragrance finder. It’s very handy and should be
part of your favorite links.
What is the
difference between FO and EO (essential oils)?
- While FO’s are chemicals
that may contain some oils from plants, essential oils are from the plant
itself. Parts of the plant are
processed and distilled to release their oils. Those oils are concentrated an/or
diluted with other natural oils and sold to candlemakers, aroma
therapists….etc.
- Please note, that although
essential oils are all natural, they are not ALL body safe. It is very wise to research
whatever essential oil you wish to use to find out if there are any restrictions
on the oil.
- Also note, pregnant women should
stay away from certain oils, essential or chemical (FO). I believe that pregnancy.com or
.org has that information.
I’ll add a link if people really want me to. LOL.
What is hot and
cold throw? How do I increase or
decrease?
- Hot throw is how well your
candles scent a room while burning.
Cold throw is how well your candles smell when they are NOT
burning.
- The obvious for increasing or
decreasing your throw is to add or cut your oil. If you are already at oil capacity
for your wax, you might consider adding vybar or stearine to increase the
amount of oil your wax can hold.
Be mindful that overusage of either vybar or stearine can decrease
your scent throw, so you will have to test to see the right amount to use.
Basic Calculations
My wax says it has __% oil retention,
what does that mean?
- Wax is like a sponge, it will
only hold so much oil before the oil starts to leak out of the wax. You will notice if you’ve
used too much oil when there is an oil slick on the bottom of your pouring
pot. If you didn’t
notice in the pouring pot, your cooled candles will start to leak or seep
oil. That means you’ve
exceeded the oil capacity of your wax.
- Oil retention is typically given
in percentages so that it will be easy to figure out.
- For example. If your wax holds 6% oil and you
have 1 lb of wax: you can add .96oz (round up to 1 oz) of FO before it
will start to leak.
- If you have an 8% you can add
1.28oz (or round down to 1.25oz) before it will start to leak.
- The calculation is very
simple…although there is debate whether or not the percentage is of
the total weight of the oil + wax or just the wax itself. I used just the wax itself as it
makes it a little easier (the difference is negligible). To calculate a percentage divide
that percentage by 100 and multiply that number times the amount of melted
wax in oz.
6% ÷
100 = .06 X 16oz = .96oz
round up to 1oz.
8% ÷
100 = .08 X 16oz = 1.28oz round down to 1.25oz.
- Most people stick to 1 oz per
pound of wax. Testing your
candles will also indicate if you need to up the amount or lower it. Keep in mind that some oils are
heavier than others and may go less than the typical 1oz/lb wax, just
based on scent throw.
How do I calculate how much wax my
container will hold?
- A very common question, there are
2 methods.
- Fill your container with water
and then pour the water into a measuring cup to determine how many fluid
oz your container will hold.
Now multiply that number by .8 to estimate how much wax your
container will hold.
- Weigh your container empty. Tare your scale (zero the scale)
and fill your container with melted wax. Record in oz the amount of wax
your container holds and carefully pour your melted wax back into your
pot. This method is messier
as you have to wipe out your container BUT it does have an advantage when
figuring out your costs and burning time. You will know exactly how much wax
your container holds.
How
much will 1lb of wax fill when its liquid?
- 1
lb of wax will yield 20 fluid oz.
How many votives
can I get out of 1 lb of wax?
- You can get 8 standard 2 oz votives
out of 1 lb of wax.
- You can get 6 dixie cup votives
out of 1 lb of wax.
How do I calculate
burn time?
- Burn time is calculated in
several stages. Note that burn
time is ESTIMATED. There are
many factors that effect burn time, so this is just an estimate.
- You need to know exactly how
much wax you have in your candle.
If it’s a container candle, weigh and empty, tare your
scale, then weigh your container.
That should give you the weight of wax in your candle.
- Once you have your wax in oz,
figuring burn time is easy.
Keep your scale handy because you are going to need it. Also keep an empty container handy
because you will need to tare your scale.
- You want to light your
candle. You will estimate
your burn time in 2 hour increments for a total of 6 hours, and then take
the average of the 3 measurements.
- Formula: (please feel free to copy this
formula)
Oz of Wax – Oz of wax after 2
hours ÷ 2 = Oz of wax burned per hour
Oz of Wax – Oz of wax after 4
hours ÷ 4 = Oz of wax burned per hour
Oz of Wax – Oz of wax after 6
hours ÷ 6 = Oz of wax burned per hour
Now add together the Oz of wax burned
per hour and divide by 3 to get your average burn rate.
Oz of Wax ÷ Average burn rate = # hours your
candle will burn.
- This looks complicated by it
really isn’t. What you
are doing is very simple. You
are measuring how much wax has burned every 2 hours to get the amount of
wax burned per hour, then taking the average of the 3 since its more
mathematically sound. At the
end of your test you divide the average burn/hour by the amount of wax in
your candle and you can estimate how many hours your candle will
burn. Here is an
example with an 8 oz candle:
8oz – 7oz (amount after a 2 hour
burn) ÷ 2 = 1/2 oz/ hour
8oz – 6oz (amount after a 4 hour
burn) ÷ 4 = 1/2 oz/ hour
8oz – 5oz (amount after a 6 hour
burn) ÷ 6 = 1/2 oz/ hour
½ + ½ + ½ = 1 1/2
oz or 1.5 oz/ hour average burn rate
1.5 oz/ hour ÷ 3 = .5oz per hour on AVERAGE
8 oz ÷.5
oz/hour = 16 hours
Basic Testing
Questions
Do I really need to test?
- Yes you do. Testing is one of the most
important things you have to do.
If you do not test your candles, you don’t know how they
burn, what the throw is on the scent, if you need to wick up or down, or
if your candles will explode.
Testing is VERY IMPORTANT.
Only a disreputable, greedy person would put an untested candle on
the market.
- Testing involves using CURED
candles. There is a debate on
whether or not your candles need to cure. I err on the side of caution and
let my testers stand at least 3 days before I light them. Some people wait their full cure
time, some light as soon as the wax is cool. It is up to you. I would
suggest you wait at least 24 hours before lighting, just to make sure all
the wax has cooled sufficiently.
- You light your candle. Initial testing is very easy. There are some things you can do to
make it easier on yourself. In
any candle there are a myriad of elements that have to be just right in
order for the candle to burn correctly. By testing each of these elements
by themselves you will know your candles better and will also know which
element is right or has a problem.
- The first thing you should test
is your wicking/wax combo.
Wicking is crucial to a good burning candle. If your wicking is off then your
candle will smoke, soot and not burn properly.
- Wick testing is very easy. Simply pour your uncolored,
unscented wax into your candle (container, mold...etc), put in your wick,
straighten and let it set.
Now, if you are doing container candles, don’t worry about
sticking the wick to the bottom of the jar…the reason is simple, if
the wick doesn’t work, you can grasp it with some pliers (after its
blown out of course), pull it from your container and shove a new wick in
there. Some people
don’t even tab their container wicks when doing wick testing
because it is easier to rip out the wick without a tab.
- Light your candle. You are looking for a full melt
pool in a given time (# of hours is determined by diameter, example, a
3” diameter candle should have a full melt pool in 3 hours), any
mushrooming on the wick, drowning, smoking, soot, blow out if you are
doing pillars. All these
elements may indicate a too small wick or too large. See the intermediate
section for more information.
- Next to test is your color/FO
combo.
- Once you have the right wicking
and know how your candle will burn without FO and color, its now time to
test those. Color your wax
and add your FO. Let it set
and cure and then light. Like
wicking, you are looking for the wick drowning, mushroom…etc. But you also smell for the
scent. You want a good strong
hot throw in your candles or your customers won’t come back to you
to buy more.
Where do I test?
- Any room in your house is a
testing room. Bathrooms are
great to test in because of the restricted air flow. Typically if a scent
throws well in a bathroom, it will be fine in a larger room with more air
flow.
- Make sure you only test 1 scent
in 1 room, or else you will get a mixture and not be able to tell any
scent from the others.
Ok, I’m
testing but I can’t smell my candles anymore, what’s wrong?
- You have what is commonly
referred to as ‘candle nose’. Your nose has adapted to the smell
of the candle, this is a perfectly natural occurrence and it happens to
everyone. You can clear out
your sensors by walking outside for 10 minutes OR smell some coffee
grounds or beans.
I’ve still got questions, what
now?
- Now click on the intermediate
section for more defined answers.
Remember that this FAQ is growing, so if you’ve got a question
that hasn’t been answered by anyone give me a holler on email.
This concludes the
Beginner Candlemaking FAQ.
Thanks for reading!
If you’ve got
more specific questions, please visit the intermediate FAQ.