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Sokushinbutsu –
Mummies in Jpaan
日本の即身仏
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Buddhist
Mummies of Japan
This subject brings us to the fringes of ascetic Buddhist practises and is only for the advanced reader. Some of them in the tradition of Kuukai, Kooboo Daishi 空海received the name of xxKAI, as you can see in the list below. Differing from Egyptian mummies who are prepared after death, these Holy Man prepare their body while alive in a long ascetic practise for keeping in eternity.
< Take a look at Arisadas Mummy, with some bones and red robe
http://www.db.fks.ed.jp/pic/10027.001/images/10027.001.00007.jpg
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QUOTE Estimates of the number of self-mummified priests in Japan range
between sixteen and twenty-four priests. Impressive though this number is,
many more have tried to self-mummify themselves; In fact, the practice of
self-mummification -- which is a form of suicide, after all -- had to be
outlawed towards the end of the 19th century to prevent Buddhist priests from
offing themselves this way... and yet the grand majority of priests who have
tried to do this have failed. The reasons will take some explaining -- but
first, some background on the whole practice and the reasons for it. So truely devote Buddhist priests are not afraid of
death; but they don't normally seek it either, as this too would be an
abnormal obsession with the physical world. The priests that chose to
practice self-mummification were usually all older men, who knew they had
limited time left to their lives anyway... and since the practice takes years
to lead to a sucessful death and mummification, it cannot be characterized as
an attempt to reach enlightenment quickly as a normal suicide might be.
Rather, the intended purpose of this practice for these priests is to both
push their ability to disregard their physical selves to the limit of their
ability, and to try and leave an artifact of this struggle that will stand as
a symbol of their beliefs to those that are priests after them. How to be a self-made mummify
http://www.sonic.net/~anomaly/japan/dbuddha.htm Copy is here http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DarumaArchives-002/message/23 |
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Now
read a short report of my travels in the area. In May 1993, we took to the small roads of Northern Japan in pursuit of some of the living mumies. On the sea-side of Mt. Hikoo-zan (the land-side shelters the temple Kokkujoo-ji, where Ryookan used to live in the small hut Gogoo-an), anyway, on the other side of this holy mountain, the temple Saishoo-ji is located halfway up the mountain. They seem to make a good business with the sacred mummy, already from far a way many roadsigns lead us easily to the huge parking space. The Holy Koochi Hooin 弘智法印is sitting here, said to be the oldeset mummy, since 1363. He has his own special hall and sits there hanging slightly to the front, since a samurai, who was afraid of the whole business of living mumies, stuck a spear in his shoulder. (see picture). This samurai in turn had to leave his head for the unholy act, another trophy shown in this temple compound.
Three tourist busses have come this morning and we follow the busy head priest, leading us on with his megaphone, past a huge statue of the Holy Koochi towards the small hall. Ther he rings a bell, says a prayer in high-speed and then openes a brocade veil which had covered the Sacred Mummy. Now we can look at him, behind some clouds of incense. His body is there in full presence, getting dressed for the season twice a year. His body is unpalatable for the mice and does not react to heat or moisture any more. So he is sitting there since more than 600 years and receives the prayers of the believers with great magnanimity. Some of the people from the bus tour tell me they come here every year to “receive some strength”. Well, after this busybody morning we take
off along the coast, further north. I
leave out our other adventures here and concentrate on the Sacred Mummies. (Details
of all Holy men see below) We
reach the small town of Murakami and try to locate the Kannon Temple,
but this time no signs and no megaphones… After
cruising around the station area for a while we find an unconspicious
house-like temple. The priest seems surprised that someone shows up. He was
cleaning the clean wooden planks of his temple and openes after I ring the
bell many times to ask for permisison to come in. He is
very friendly and shows us to the small side-altar of the Holy Bukkai, who is sitting there since
1903. Even after the abolishment of this old tradition, he finished his
ascetic practises and entered his final box only to be living on here now for
ever. There is even a photo of an old man with a long beard beside the altar,
showing the real living person. This is a place for the serious pilgrim only.
Nobody disturbs our encounter here. Next
we are heading toward the three holy mountains of Dewa, Dewa-Sanzan, but that
is another story. Anyway, we visit the tempel Jooren-ji, where another
mummy is located. This temple is on a small hill, overlooking the fresh green
ricefields. This temle used to be the final place on the pilgrimage to the
three holy mountains on foot. After passing here, the pilgrim was allowed to
eat meat again and partake of worldly pleasures. The
old wooden building is beautifully blended in the landscape. The cassette
ceiling shows a surprizing array of modern paintings of dragons, horses, Kannon
and even the heads of the beatles, Einstein and Picasso. It has been painted
recently with the prayers for world peace. On an
unconspicious side alter the mummy of Holy Tetsumon is placed for all to meet. He
sits here since 1898, being 62 years. There are only few people and the
silence and piece is refreshing. Just a
few kilometers further up the hill is the most famous hall, Dainichi-boo.
Here the Holy Shinnyookai is up for good business. Since the mountain of Yudono does not have
its own tempel building, all statues are placed here. This temple had a lot
of influence during the Edo period and even Kasuga no Tubone visited her
praying for Iemitsu to become the third Shoogun of Edo. 50
years ago, a part of the mountain slided down during strong rain and ruined
part of the temple, so now all statues are cramped in a building that
withstood the onslaughter of nature. A young priest wellcomes us, smelling
nicely of the “water of wisdom”, the holy ricewine. When he realizes that we
are not just tourists but understand a little more about Buddhistm and
statues, his explanations get longer and longer, his tounge more heavy. We
reach the alter with the Holy Shinnyookai, the mummy best preserved from all
the 24 existing in Japan to this day. Shinnyookai is sitting here since
1783,we are told, after 70 years spending among the living. After prayers and
incense we are allowed to take a closer look. His fragile hands over his
knees you can see all the sinews of the fingers and the nails protruding over
the flesh just a little. The
great feeling of presence of all these mummies is really surprising. You must
have seen it for yourself to understand the feeling you are really face to
face with a special power. Our
trip goes on to Yudono, but that is another story. |
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List
of 16 Japanese Sacred Mummies
http://www.saisyouji.jp/saisyo-ji/contents-sokusinbutu-navi.html Here are other lists of the living mummies in Japanese: http://www.fukimbara.com/jmb/jmb053.html With links to
each one. http://www.fukimbara.com/cgi-bin/m-srch1.cgi http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/mutsumi/mummy/mummy.htm
Let us look at some of them in more detail, in the order of the first list above. You can also open
my photo album in a different window and look at the numbers for the
pictures. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gabigreve2000/album?.dir=/6f75& |
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Shungi
Shoonin 舜義上人, Myoohoo-ji, Ibaragi Pref. He came from the
temple Hookai-ji in Kamakura and was a believer in Amida Nyorai. He found his end
in 1686 in Ibaragi Pref. The temple Myoohoo-ji is Nr. 33 in a pilgrimage to
38 temples in honor of the Wisdom King Fudoo-Myoo-oo. |
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Arisada
Hooin 宥貞法印, Temple Kanshuu-ji < 01 picture of his mummy > http://www.db.fks.ed.jp/pic/10027.001/images/10027.001.00007.jpg He was a strong believer
in the healing Buddha Yakushi Nyorai. He passed away in 1683 at the
temple xxx in Fujishima prefecture. At the age of 92 he decided his time for
death in order to help the suffering people of the area, sat down in a stone
coffin and said: “Within 21 days,I will be in the other world”. He is now
resting in the Yakushi Hall of the temple. < 02 another picture of his mummy > http://travel.nifty.com/cs/jpspot/img/7010133_1069_1.jpg 薬師堂に保存されている権大僧都宥貞法印入定ミイラは、薬師信仰に基づいて庶民のために入定したものとしては全国で唯一のものです。 http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~asakawa/bunkabussan/bunbussan.html http://travel.nifty.com/cs/catalog/travel_595/catalog_7010133_1.htm |
Tenkoo Myookai Shoonin, Zookoo-In 伝光明海上人
< picture of his mummy
http://www.informatics.tuad.ac.jp/tenji/tenji03/kotoh-lab/199970035/samplepage/miira.jpg His mummy is in
the temple Zookoo-In. http://www.informatics.tuad.ac.jp/tenji/tenji03/kotoh-lab/199970035/samplepage/zoukouin.html http://www1.shirataka.or.jp/kanko/kanko-pages/meisyo6.html http://p2223.nsk.ne.jp/~toramoto/sntssb.htm |
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Shinnyokai Shonin真如海上人 Temple Dainichi-Boo < picture
of his mummy > http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/images/dainichibo-card.gif < 03
picture of his mummy > http://www.dainichibou.or.jp/sokushin2.jpg See my own story above for the English. 代受苦菩薩真如海上人は 朝日村越中山に生まれ、 純真な性格の持主として育ち、幼少の頃より仏教の教えに心をひかれ
青年時代より仏門に帰依出家し、一生を捧げて弱肉強食の不平等社会を仏国 楽土たらしめ、衆生を救うことを誓願され、湯殿山大権現を信仰し、本寺大日坊を 拠点として各方面の教化につとめた。寺を建て慈悲を施して社会福祉につとめられたため、
徳望一世に高く、生き仏として多くの人々より尊ばれた。二十代より即身仏を志し、 木食の行に入り、天明三年九十六才で生身のまま土中に入定するまで七十余年の長い間
この難業苦業を積み重ね即身仏となられた。今日まで約二百年以上もなるが、 生きながら入定そのままの尊い姿である。即身仏とは、湯殿山行者の行う難業苦業の最たる
木食の行を積み重ね、生きながらにして土中に入定し三年三ヶ月後に弟子や信者の手により掘り出し、即身仏になった。 http://www.dainichibou.or.jp/sokushin.htm http://www.ic-net.or.jp/home/rinet/yympsksnbt.html About the temple Dainichi-Boo (Dainichibo, Dainichi-Bo)Said to have been founded in 807 by the
high priest Kooboo Daishi, this is an old and famous temple. Preserved here
is a sokushinbutsu (see above) which, even more rare, is entirely intact. The
remains, naturally embalmed and preserved by undergoing a special starvation
diet, have not changed remarkably during 200 years of storage and handling.
As the temple itself was used for worship by the former Tokugawa Shogun
family, it stores many gifts offered by the former ruling clan such as
swords, Buddhist statues and scroll boxes. http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~yuko2000/shonai-r/asahi/sh/dainichi-bo.html |
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Tetsumonkai
Shoonin鉄門海上人, Temple Chuuren-ji < picture of his mummy > http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/images/mummychurenji.gif His portrait whilst living http://www.thr.mlit.go.jp/yamagata/u-zen/024/img/yumeno00.gif Temple
Chuuren-ji 注連寺 (Churenji) Churen-ji is the
resting site of yet another sokushinbutsu, the natural embalming processed
being accomplished by abstaining from all grains and eating only tree and
grass foods. There are many
tales surrounding the Edo Era individual who eventually became the mummy
here; he is said to have killed two samurai over women problems and escaped
to Churen-ji, where he became a mountain ascetic. After enduring many harduous rituals in the nearby mountains he made great efforts to rebuild the temple. At the age of 54 he visited Edo where he saw the great extent of eye illnesses, a major infliction at the time. This moved him to take out his own eye (the left) and throw it into the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) and pray for a cure to the eye illnesses of the masses. What happened to the eye is not recorded, however, in 1829 in front of many believers he entered the main hall of Churen-ji where he attained living Buddhahood. http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~yuko2000/shonai-r/asahi/sh/churen-ji.html His hands as a print. < 04 picture > http://www.thr.mlit.go.jp/yamagata/u-zen/024/img/yumeno04.jpg Drawing of a Dragon-Circle by him. < 05 picture > http://www.thr.mlit.go.jp/yamagata/u-zen/024/img/yumeno05.jpg Very detailed page about Tetsumonkai. http://www.thr.mlit.go.jp/yamagata/u-zen/024/yumeno01.html 鉄門海上人は1768年、現在の山形県鶴岡市生まれ。1829年、注連寺本堂において信者のみまもるなか入定したという。1821年に江戸へ出たとき、眼病が流行しているのをみて、みずからの左眼をくりぬいて隅田川に投じ、眼病退散を祈願したといわれている。湯殿山総本寺瀧水寺大日坊もここからすぐである。山形は新潟と並んでミイラの宝庫といわれている。 http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/mutsumi/mummy/tetsumon.htm Another Japanese Link http://www.qkamura.or.jp/qkamura/cgi-bin/qkamura_html/6/outskirts.html |
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Honmyookai
Shoonin 本明海上人, Temple Honmyoo-ji If you believe in
his power, your mental problems will be healed and your eyes will be sharp
forever. He is sitting in the temple Honmyoo-ji. 山形県東岩本の真言宗本明寺の即身仏 天和三年(皇紀2343年)入滅。信心すれば病気、特に眼病に効果があるとされる。 http://i-otter.hp.infoseek.co.jp/kami/k_bho.html |
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Tetsuryuukai
Shoonin 鉄竜海上人,
grand-disciple of Tetsumonkai <
06 picture of his mummy > http://www.yamagatakanko.com/yodf/pimg/1845-1.jpg He passed on in
1868, on the 8th of the 8th month、at the age of 62 years. 国内に24体ある即身仏の内の1体を安置。即身仏となった鉄竜海上人は全国各地を巡回し、月山仙人沢に山篭、明治元年(1868年)8月8日62歳で入寂した。 http://www.yamagatakanko.com/yodf/01/10/02/1845.html 上人は秋田県仙北町の生まれで、「入定留身にして後の世の人にを済度せん」との宣誓のもと、1000日の十穀絶ちの木食行を修行し、明治元年、62歳で入寂されました。 http://www.ques.co.jp/syonai/kanko/shisetu/stamp/st02.html |
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Chuukai
Shoonin and Enmeikai Shoonin 忠海上人, 円明海上人 Both were priests at
the temple Kaikoo-ji. Chuukai passed away
in 1755 and Enmeikai in 1822. This is the only temple which has two mummies. 明治時代に成ると法律が替わり、即身仏になる為の土中入定の、手助けをすると、殺人罪に問われるようになりましたので、明治時代からは、なった人はいません。 http://kaanegii.hp.infoseek.co.jp/kaikouji.htm Grave of
Enmeikai
< 07 Picture > http://kaanegii.hp.infoseek.co.jp/kai-ennmeikai1.jpg そのうち二体が砂高山海向寺の即仏堂に祀られています。同寺の住職、鉄門海上人も衆生済度の為、自ら即身仏となったと伝えられています。即仏堂には忠海上人(1755年入定)、円明海上人(1822年入定)の2体が安置され、いずれも五穀断ち、十穀断ち、1000日修行を積んだもので 鉄門海上人の遺品その他も展示されています。 http://www.city.sakata.yamagata.jp/Files/1/002252/html/kaikoji.htm |
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Bukkai
Shoonin 仏海上人 Temple
Kannon-ji He found his end in the Meiji period, when officially this practise was abolished. After visiting the mummies of 18 other “predecessors”, he passed away in the year Meiji 36, on the 20th of March. He was the last one to follow this tradition of asceticism. See his stone
memorial and the character BUTSU, Buddha in a special script. http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~e-kiyo/sikiroku23.htm 真言宗のお寺で寺伝では、元和4年(1618)に宗海上人が開かれたとされている。仏海上人の即身仏(明治36年3月20日入寂で日本最後とされる)が奉安されていることでも有名。境内には仏海上人頌徳碑、他に句碑、鏡塚などがある。 http://www.iwafune.ne.jp/~osyagiri/jiten/k.htm 明治を生きた仏海上人まで、全国18体の即身仏を訪ね歩く。出羽三山の仙人沢、美濃の名だたる古刹、念仏がこだまする京の洞窟……。 http://www.shobunsha.co.jp/html/sinkan/2000/2k01-001n.html 現在の真言宗寺院(僧りょ)でこのような利剣名号信仰を奉持しているところがあるのだろうか。いずれにしろ、木食僧仏海上人は弘法大師(所伝)の南無阿弥陀仏(利剣名号)を信じていたのは確かだ。その土中入定処(土佐の入木村の小庵)にある念珠にもたしか南無阿弥陀仏を刻んでいたという話だ。 http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~e-kiyo/sikiroku23.htm At the temple Kichijoo-ji
there are 100 statues of Jizoo Bosatsu, engraved by Bukkai Shoonin. < 08 picture > http://www.niihama.info/umi/07.jpg Kichijoo-ji 吉祥寺 真言宗の寺で、貞観年間(859〜87年)に大島八幡神社が宇佐八幡宮から勧請された時に建立されました。飛び地境内にある地蔵堂には、現在の北条市出身の仏海上人が彫られた100体地蔵が安置されています。中央の地蔵の台裏には、寛保3(1743)年10月以吉日願主仏海如心と記されており江戸時代中期に作られた作品で、市指定の文化財です。 http://www.niihama.info/umi/umi.htm |
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Zenkai
Hooshi 全海法師 < picture > http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/images/mummyzenkaihoshi.gif He lived from
1602 till 1687. He started his practise of eating bark (mokujiki) in 1684. A special
festival in his favor is held on the 8th day of July and on the 8th
of September. The whole village celebrates at the temple Kannon-ji. 松音院月山全海法師は1602年、現在の鹿瀬町に生まれている。1684年、五穀断ちを開始し、1687年死亡。全海法師は筏のりの守護神であり、脱腸治癒に霊験あらたかという。 脱腸のかたはぜひお参りを。とくに毎年7月8日と9月8日の2回、お祭典が行われるというから、これを逃す手はない。 松井山観音寺:新潟県東蒲原郡鹿瀬町菱潟村 http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/mutsumi/mummy/zenkaihoshi.htm |
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Shuukai
Shoonin 秀快上人 < picture of the temple altar> http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/images/mummyshinju.jpg He was born in 1719
and entered the last position in 1780. He practised his asceticism at the
Hase-temple inKyoto. Now he is in Niigata prefecture. 阿月秀快上人は1719年、藤井村生まれ。京都の長谷寺で修行した。1780年、入定したといわれている。 真珠院:新潟県柏崎市大字西長鳥甲502 http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/mutsumi/mummy/shukaishonin.htm |
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Shinsoo
Gyoojun Daigyooja, Shinshuu Gyoojun 心相行順大行者, 心宗行順大行者 Kubota
Hikosaemon 久保田彦左衛門 < 09 picture of his mummy, clad in a blue
robe > http://www.valley.ne.jp/~niinosho/dentou/gyo1.jpg His mummy is open for the public twice a year during public holidays, on the 29th of April and the 15th of September. On a festival in his honour villagers race around in sandals made of heavy iron and parade around the village. < 10 picture of his grave stone > http://www.valley.ne.jp/~niinosho/dentou/gyoujya1.jpg 行人様(久保田彦左衛門)は、江戸時代のはじめ、諸国修行を終えてから、新野の山にこもり、不食の行を成し、五穀豊穣を祈りながら入寂しました。新野を見下ろす、新栄山山頂の御堂に安置されています。 写真は、御堂近くにある行者様を祭ったほこらです。毎年年2回、行人様例祭が行われています。 http://www.valley.ne.jp/~niinosho/dentou/page2-3.htm 瑞光院の裏山、新栄山(通称行人山)の山頂の岩場に一宇のお堂があり、その中にはミイラになった行者様の尊いお姿が安置され、近郷近在の人々の信仰の的になっています。 http://www.valley.ne.jp/~niinosho/dentou/page2.htm |
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Myooshin
Shoonin 妙心上人 < 11 picture of his mummy,
almost naked> http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/images/mummyyokokura.jpg He was born in
1718 in Yokokura and passed away in 1815 in Yamanashi. He spend most of
his time leading pilgrims on to Mt. Fuji. He was brought back to his hometown
during the Meiji period and is now seated in the Tempel Yokokuradeera in Gifu
prefecture. 妙心上人は1781年に横蔵に生まれ、善光寺の万善堂で受戒されたのち、富士講の先達をつとめたりしていました。その後1815年ごろ現在の山梨県で入定したそうです。明治23年に生まれ故郷の横蔵に祀られることになりました。 両界山横蔵寺Ryokaizan Yokokura-ji http://pws.prserv.net/hosaka/mutsumi/mummy/myoshinshonin.htm |
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Tanzei Shoonin 弾誓上人 < 12 picture of his statue, a national treasure
(bunkazai)> http://www2.city.omachi.nagano.jp/html/bunkazai/03/img/bunkazai44.jpg He started his
bark eating (mokujiki) around 1600. His statue is now in the temple Amida-ji
in Kyoto. His statue made
of cedar wood (hinoki) statue is quite famous. It is 75 cm hgh and he is
shown in his priest robes (noo-e). ヒノキ材、寄木造、像高75.0cm。衲衣(のうえ)の上に袈裟(けさ)をまとい、趺座(ふざ)して合掌する姿である。彩色は、糊粉下地上に頭部と両手は赤茶色に、衲衣を暗灰色に、袈裟を赤黒色にそれぞれ着彩し、顔面には髭を墨描きしてある。頭部の彫りは抑揚に富み、面相は前に立つ者へ語りかけるような温顔である。弾誓寺は中世に現大町市社の木舟地区から移された天台宗浄福寺(常福寺)がその前身である。 木食遊行僧(もくじきゆうぎょうそう)として知られていた弾誓上人が慶長年代はじめ(1600年ころ)衰微していた浄福寺を常念仏によって盛り返し、後に寛永13年(1636)教えを継ぐ唱嶽長音(しょうがくちょうおん)が上人の徳を忍んで弾誓寺として中興開山した。木食僧はよく作仏したが、それは弾誓も長音も同様である。時代背景からこの像を17世紀中頃の長音の作と見ることは難しくない。本像は江戸時代前期の常念仏盛行の様子をうかがわせる貴重な文化財である。 http://www2.city.omachi.nagano.jp/html/bunkazai/03/03culture005.html Some pictures of
the caves where he practiced ascetism. < 13 picture
> http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/syugyoukutu.jpg http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/syugyoukutu.jpg Text http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/newpage14.html 本堂。開山の弾誓上人自作の自髪を植えた本尊と阿弥陀如来像が祀ってある. < 14 picture of the temple > http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/img/hstj/sakyo/9906-06.jpg http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/jap/hstj/sakyo/amidaji3.html Some pictures of the Amida Templehttp://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/jap/hstj/sakyo/amidaji.html http://futarinoyakata.web.infoseek.co.jp/amidaji.htm Some beautiful
stone statues of Buddhist deities in the compounds. http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/kuyoubutu-2.jpg http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/kuyoubutu-10.jpg http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/sekibutu-3.jpg View more of
them here: http://homepage2.nifty.com/amida/kuyobutu.html |
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There
are two books about these mummies in Japanese: Look
at the book covers with the mummies. http://bookweb.kinokuniya.co.jp/imgdata/large/4653038058.jpg
(15) http://images-jp.amazon.com/images/P/4794962673.09.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
(16) Excerpt from a long scholarly essay The Buddhist icon and
the modern gaze
by Bernard Faure Quote: The famous mummy of Hui-Neng,
the Zen patriarch in China Sometimes Buddhist mummies, too, were used just like icons, as when the "flesh-body" of the Chan patriarch Huineng (d. 713) was paraded through town on a palanquin in times of drought, as a substitute for the icon of the Bodhisattva Guanyin. The description of this "celebrated monster" given by Jesuit missionaries suggests that, like popular icons, this mummy had been blackened by the smoke of incense.(48) This raises the question of whether this flesh-body is the same as the lacquered, golden-colored mummy that was until recently visible at the Nanhua Monastery near Canton. http://ccbs.ntu.edu.tw/FULLTEXT/JR-EPT/bernard.htm Copy is here |
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Mokujiki, eating bark in the last stage of
becoming a living mummy – we have heard that a few times. There was also an
ininerant carver of Buddha statues, called by this name. Mokujiki Shoonin 木食上人 <
Picture of himself as a statue > http://www.town.yagi.kyoto.jp/englishversion/image12.jpg Some of his simple, unorthodox Buddha statues all over Japan. http://www.town.yagi.kyoto.jp/mokujiki/kakuti.htm In the Edo Period, the itinerant Buddhist priest Mokujiki Shoonin, known to have carved over 1,000 Buddhist statues during his travels throughout the country, visited Yagi-cho. He left statues of the 22 Arhats and other Buddhist figures which are now considered masterpieces and are kept in Seigen-ji. http://www.town.yagi.kyoto.jp/englishversion/our%20history.htm Mokujiki
and the better knows caraver-priest
Enkuu 円空 (Enku) will be subject of a later story. |
Here is a final delicacy in
connection with this topic and Haiku !
Curtesy
to the World Haiku Club.
|
Through the Cloud Gate to Moon Mountain: A Journey in Oku I woke to the sight of a
steel-blue Sea of Japan to my left under the white wing of the 8:05 JAL out
of Haneda. We were flying low, descending over a tatami floor of yellow and
green - the rice fields of Akita. They are legend in Japan, I recalled, the
Komachi strain honoring Ono no Komachi, the Heian beauty and poet said to
have been the scion of this verdant northern backwater of the archipelago. Sucking
in the pure Tohoku morning air on the ground, I could see it was harvest time
here in Yuwa town, far from Tokyo. The plants were lying down in the fields,
heavy with seed. I thought of the adage: Minoru hodo The
more they ripen, These paddies also produce the main ingredient for some of the finest sake in Japan, and the depths of snow that cover them in winter is responsible, they say, for the lustrous white skin of Akita bijin, as the local belles are known. I could see a difference in the faces of the Japanese at the World Haiku Festival venue near the airport, my first destination in the north country. They had broader bone structure, were taller and somehow more solid than the inhabitants of the capital. Their protocol was more substantial as well. A reception for the foreign conference guests was held at the restaurant Villa Flora on a hill overlooking a valley of rice. The Yuwa councilmen, our hosts, were decked out in blue suits, Brylcreem hair and thick-rimmed glasses. An emcee announced when the party would begin and end, speeches were made by the mayor and representatives of several haiku clubs. There were entertainments of traditional Akita songs with drum, shakuhachi and samisen accompaniment as well as dancing by middle-aged women in kimono. We were asked to recite a haiku of our own composition, and I recalled visiting Basho's birthplace in Mie Prefecture a month earlier; Iga-Ueno was known as one of the two main centers for ninja, and before taking in a museum on the medieval assassins I had stopped at Basho's home. The large reconstructed main building seemed out of character with my image of the wayfarer, but nestled among the banana plants in the yard was his writing hut, which he called Chougekken -- literally, "Fishing Moon House". A nail dangled country footwear by the bare mats, and I pictured him composing after weeks on the road: Straw sandals hanging The bus to Kisakata, the following day, took us through emerald glens. Someone said Basho allegedly embarked on his Oku no Hosomichi odyssey because he was really a ninja and was on an intelligence-gathering mission for the Tokugawa shogunate. I laughed at the thought of a ninja weeping, as the sentimental poet often described himself doing. Studded with pine, the "islands" of Kisakata were floating on a golden sea of rice in the sun. The 1804 earthquake that destroyed the lagoons had also replaced the cranes of Basho's day with crows. It was almost a Van Gogh painting. Amid the knolls, we could see hooded country women gathering rice cuttings and binding them to poles called haza. These looked like a row of people in traditional straw raincoats, the kind Basho and Sora wore while negotiating the muddy tracks. I later wrote the following: Rice drying on poles... We were taken to Meiji poet Ishii Rogetsu's grave at a small hillside temple. Graveyards in Japan have always fascinated me; their wooden touba markers inscribed with Buddhist death-names, regular cleansing rituals, food and floral offerings. One cinerarium seemed a hive of life. Withered offerings That night, we held a moon-viewing party to honor the harvest moon. A bottle of the finest Akita sake, Hiraizumi, was brought along with pampas grass and other tokens. Our cheers finally coaxed it from behind a shroud of cloud, whereupon a toast was made. Later I repaired to a dark wooded patch away from the hotel lights and looked up; that magnificent moon seemed to be eyeing me through its veil. Lying in long grass I still had moon on the brain when I boarded an express train the next day for Tsuruoka, down the coast. I had long wanted to climb holy Gassan (Moon Mountain) in Yamagata, not because Basho had been there, but because of its association with the famed swordsmiths who lived on it and took the peak's name. They continue to practice their ancient art, as I learned when I once interviewed Nara sword maker Sadatoshi Gassan, the fifth generation of smiths since the Gassan school was relocated to Osaka around 1830. Their accumulated expertise is reflected in the master's prized blades, which seem living worlds in steel-silver dragons coiled around flowering plum trees, pearls floating over milky mists and the Chinese characters for "moon" and "mountain" engraved on the tang as a finishing touch. I thought of the designs on the razor-sharp katana as I climbed the long stair through centuries-old cedars and mist to the summit of Mt. Haguro. The smith's lineage goes back about 800 years to the Kamakura Period, when Buddhist monks in the ascetic Shugendo sect needed swords to protect their disciples here, one of the three sacred peaks of Dewa Sanzan along with Gassan and Mt. Yudono -- said to represent birth, death and rebirth respectively. Sweating in the cold air, I reached the top of the stair at the shrine complex. The physical world seemed to dissolve at the gate. Vermilion torii... They say a handful of yamabushi
mountain priests continues to live on Haguro year-round, but I saw none. The
museum had an exhibit of round bronze mirrors that abbots of old placed in a
local pond as a sign of dedication; its one ancient Gassan sword was not on
display. I enjoyed a burst of sunshine in a garden of Jizo statues,
pathetically dressed in unkempt layers of clothing to console the spirits of
aborted fetuses, then caught one of the last buses of the year to Gassan. Cold moor pool The mist, confusing the visible and invisible, causing the mountainside to appear and disappear, hovered over the ponds like a spirit. I thought it was playing tricks on me when I saw two white, ghostly figures in the distance. As I approached, I could see they were sitting in the lotus posture and looking off into the moor, motionless in the rain. Were these phantoms of smiths who had tempered their swords in holy water, or shades of Yudono ascetics who fasted to death to become mummies? In the moment before I realized they were pilgrims practicing austerities, I felt as though I had passed through a gate into a Moon Mountain spirit-world where time itself does not pass. Women chanting sutras The storm didn't let up and I never did reach the summit. I accepted an offer of a lift back to Tsuruoka the next day from a worker at the lodge. The sun was shining in the valley below as we drove under the massive torii at the foot of Haguro. Behind us was Gassan, rising out of the cedar forests and vanishing into cloud. http://www.worldhaikureview.org/2-3/whf2002recollections_hornyak.shtml Artwork, "Torii, Yudono-san" by D. W. Bender |
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