| Beginning | Athens | Roma | Venice | Firenze | Assisi | Lucerne | Zurich |
Please read everything keeping in mind that most of the time we were in a
state of amazement and/ or amused survey of the absurdities of life, or 42, or
everything. Nasty comments (there aren't any, actually) are meant much more
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and assorted strange and wondrous grotesqueries you see on this page (and its
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Arraigned below is the compleat journal, in order chronological, set out in almost faithful fascimile. To look at certain portions instead of scrolling over everything, click on the burnished names of the cities above.
Monday, 6th May 2002
Emirates stewardesses brightly pretty. We flew over India, Arabia and Greek islands brown in the sun-spangled sea. Beirut had trapezoids of cultivation lushly brown and green. Rhodes was a strange, huge island with hills (or mountains?) streaked with white deposits (salt or snow).
Dubai Airport anonymously air-porty. Bought postcards and a tiny hookah with a lid prone to falling off. Snapped picture of apparently famous hotel from the plane -- protruding white sail on a small promontory thrusting from an endless shore.
Athens immigration officer cheeky. Waited a few minutes for a taxi before deciding on taking a bus, €2.90 per person v. €20~26 for a taxi. Weird goateed Michael Jackson look-alike from France sat opposite me. He had a scar on his eyebrow and shaggy hair.
First impressions of Athens v. poor. Getting petrol fume-drowsy on bus while speeding through interminable streets of run-down, cheaply-painted, cardboard-solid structures. A Carrefour here, a Macdonald's there and a huge poster of Cher inexplicably helped lighten my heart. A witty billboard with a man flashing himself at beautiful bikinied woman saying "Not now, dear" everywhere.
Reached Syntagma Square, pored over map and plastic signboard before heading down strange walking street. Halfway through turned into correct street (Ermou). Chanced upon a beautiful church with bricked walls and comfortingly rounded domes. Deduced must be Golden Virgin of the Cave from exquisite mosaic set in a delightful arched doorway. Falling in love with Greece.
Found Attalos, receptionist cheerful and speaks English. Lift's working a mystery. Numerous panels passed before our startled eyes before 2nd Floor was reached. Fewer panels before 3rd Floor. Room 3-07. Beyond expectations. Clean, warm accents, satellite TV (with strange Greek programmes & CNN!), safe, hot water and working air-conditioner. Am pleased.
J just changed into T-shirt and bermudas. Shall do same presently. 16.25 Greek time.
(Drawing of bewitching Emirates stewardess)
Wandered to Syntagma Square. Went into National Gardens and happened upon apparently typical Greek evening pastime of duck-watching. Hundreds of somewhat dirty such fowls, pedalling, waddling, quacking and pecking around. Came upon lovely pavilion shaded with perfusion of vines. Inside a green-oxidized tiny statue of sad maiden dripping water from her hand down three-levelled bowls overgrown with moss.
Turned into broad avenue and saw the Zappeion. Not open, as were other public buidlings due to inexplicable shifting of May Day and a one-week vacation.
Reached the University, wonderfully solemn and majestic facade dominated by very colourful frescoes of seemingly erudite and dramatic figures. 4 statues, inscriptions in Greek, arranged strikingly on broad steps leading up to main building.
To the right the Academy, with Athena looking militantly victorious on roof. Central building topped by inspiring statues of Appollo et al. Interesting feature: corners of roof decorated with winged Etruscan(?)/ Assyrian lions. (Later realized should be sphinxes.)
Lots of wandering around searching for Plaka. Passed various ruins a few times without knowing what they were. Finally turned into Plaka, strolled through deserted and darkening streets before turning abruptly into bustling street full of lively tavernas. Waiters hustle for business. Walked up charming stepped slope lined with pastel Greek residences and leafy boughs. Took a photo. A blond curly-haired boy walking around tavernas beating drum.
After sundown, approached Tower of the Winds and mistook it for Hadrian's Library. Took a photo anyway. Finally stopped at a corner eatery, mustered up courage and ordered 2 souvlakis from flabby and greasy proprietor. Rosy-cheeked, chiselled waiter/ cook promptly prepared the astonishingly delicious and sinful creations. I had chicken and J pork.
Returned to hotel extremely tired.
Tuesday, 7th May 2002
Woke up with a sore throat. Walked down street each chewing on half a turkey sandwich loaf from last night bought at Everest. Air nippy.
Started towards Acropolis, swiftly got diverted into various side streets and got lost. Stopped to consult map, went into Od. Lissikrates. Saw the Monument of Lysikrates, a choregic dedication. Circular with 6 Corinthian columns with curved panels, forming a drum.
Inscription on the archtrave: "Lysikrates of Kikyna, son of Lysitheides, was choregos; the tribe of Akamantis won the victory with a chorus of boys; Theon played the flute; Lysiades of Athens trained the chorus; Enaintos was archon." The last reference dates the event to 334 B.C. The decorative frieze depicts the story of Dionysos and the Tyrrhenian pirates whom he turned into dolphins.
After Monument of Lysikrates, we climbed up steep Od. Epimenidhon onto lower slopes of tiny ruin of a dome with cross on it set in grassy mound, fenced.
Finally, came to Acropolis. It was closed. All national monuments were due to May Day inexplicabilities.
Undaunted, we explored the surroundings. Climbed up marble outcrop with extremely slippery uneven surfaces for panoramic view of Athens and ring of Hills. Took photos. Very windy, was at first terrified of strong winds. After decent, discovered from Blue Guide that outcrop was the Areopagos, supposedly site of first agora for Athens. "Ares was tried here by the other gods for the murder of Halirrhothios, son of Poseidon. Alternatively it may mean "Hill of the Curses", "The Council of Elders" became known as the "Council of the Areopagos", original function was criminal justice.
"4C B.C. -- Areopagos dealt with crimes of treason and corruption." "A.D. 51 St. Paul 'in the midst of Mars' hill' described his religion to the Council. In the process he converted one of their number, Dionysios, who became St. Dionysios the Areopagite, and patron saint of Athens."
Took path down through half-open rusted gate. Huge boulders on left the ruins of collapsed roof of the Cave of the Furies. James took a photo posing elegantly on a truncated column. I had a go pretending to be indolently amused posing on an ancient wall.
We continued on to Mouseion Hill. Up and up to the Tomb of Philopappos, v. nice but fenced. Down and up another hill, the Pnyx, in classical times popularly called "The Rocks". Posed for photos on the altar and the rostrum.
Went on to the Hill of the Nymphs. Saw a modernly protected church of Ayia Marina, the Athens observatory and 2 white horses tame. Strolled onto bustling flea market. A woman was letting her chicken feed on grubs in the grass while having its feet in a bag. Saw the Thesion, but access barred.
Went into Macdonald's for lunch. Had a MacVeggie. Recharged, strode into Plaka and made impulse purchases. "Gold" Owl -- €2.50; Worry Beads -- €1.80 x 2; Postcards -- €0.30 x 6; Fridge Magnet -- €3; Nice Postcard -- €0.73; Evil Eye -- €2.50; Evil eye keychain -- €4.00; Neck decoration -- €0.88; Beads for Benjamin -- €7.80. Lunch ~ €5.00. Dinner -- MacSalad + Milkshake ~ €5.50.
Night, followed James unwillingly on long walk to Kolonaki Square. Upmarket area, with posh shops like Chanel, etc. Pleasant but not terribly Greek so left after window-shopping. Shops not open anyway.
8th May 2002
The Acropolis!! Arrived at gate 7.45 a.m., too early. Informed by kindly guide to purchase tickets at booth down slope. €6.00 each for students.
First in the enclosure! Or rather complex. Surprised by marching Greek soldiers on ascent to Propylaia. Entire site under renovation / restoration, but first glimpse of Parthenon up close through columns of Propylaia still enough to take breath away. Approached the "Chamber of the Maidens" in cold dry wind from bay. Access to interior denied.
To the left stood the elegant Erechtheoin. Caryatids beautiful beyond description. After going through an entire roll of film, sat on Wall of Kimon and digested Blue Guide.
Went on the Acropolis Museums. "Lioness Attacking a Bull" absolutely spectacular. The Calf-Bearer a stunning piece, with most skilful indication of diaphanous covering on man's body. The Rampin Rider a joy to behold. Actual Caryatids in stately display behind glass.
Meandered till discovered entrance to Theatre of Dionysos. Scrambled up treacherous rocks to a grotto in the sheer upper face of the Acropolis rock. Cave gloomy, hung with gilded Byzantium paintings/ mosaics. V. picturesque when combined with 2 free-standing columns (Corinthian) above. Found out cave was a church of the Panayia Khrisospiliotissa (Our Lady of the Golden Cave), while the columns supported votive tripods.
Proceeded down to theatre proper. Terraces dotted with pretty clusters of tiny daisies and ubiquitous, delightful red cup-shaped flowers.
Since ticket allowed access to various sites, decided to pay Temple of Olympian Zeus another visit. Site almost deserted. Also under restoration, but still majestic and imposing.
Broke for lunch at Macdonald's, had MacFish, coke and a sundae.
Tower of the Winds included in ticket price too! Circled Tower, proceeded through Roman Market and admired Gate of Athena Archegetes. Started to drizzle.
Ticket also included the Ancient Agora. Walked up ancient Panathenaic Way. Approached Thesion (properly Hephaisteion) up close. Overwhelmed by wealth of ruins to see. Sense of history v. strong, especially the Odeion of Agrippa (or Agrippeion), which was used as a lecture hall, a concert hall and a gymnasium at various periods.
Turned nito Stoa of Attalos, magnificently restored. Outside the Museum were ranged statues and other sculpture. Interesting ones included a sultry torso of Aphrodite and a wonderful Nike. Inside the Museum were exhibits in chronological order from Neolithic to Mycaenaean to A.D. 500. Notable (for me) exhibits: tomb of a young girl; a child's cistern (impression from pottery); a Nike flanked by a pair of Eros. (*Right after lunch, visited Museum of Greek Folk Art, housed in a mosque, next to Hadrian's Library. Folk art v. charming and rustic.)
Wandered into Plaka, and by happy chance found shop of poet-sandalmaker. Bought a pair of leather sandals resembling some ancient Greek design. A bit expensive (€20) but who cares. Took a photo with the now white-haired, thin mastercraftsman.
Walked a long way up to the National Archaeological Museum, only to find that it had closed at 1500 hrs. Extremely vexed, with weird sense of imploding self. Disconsolate, walked back down street and bought junk food off supermarket. Also got carried away and purchased double roll of film for €7.50!
Wandered around Plaka, went back to tourist shop to buy more souvenirs. Decided to have souvlaki for dinner since it's last night in Greece (at least for a long while). (*Plaka finally alive after two days of slumber. Morning simply thronging with people. An exhilarating taste of touristy Greece.)
(*At Hephasteion (Theseion), eavesdropped on American guide's spiel to his university student wards. V. intriguing, explanations learned and spoken with passion. Earnest and energetic. Greek Major? Art? Apparently the sections of the columns of the Theseion slightly displaced because of expansion/ contraction of marble crystals over centuries of sunrise/ sunset.)
Love Athens.
9th May 2002
Arrived at NAM, early we thought, but capricious Greeks have altered opening times again. Nevermind, at least we, for 1.5 hrs, got a glimpse of the most spectacular treasures Greece produced.
Made hasty return to Hotel, checked out and effected a €10 taxi ride to the bus terminus for Peloponessose. Bought 11.30 tickets, but managed to hitch a ride on the 11.00 bus. Tight fit but alright.
Patras a v. dusty and cluttered town. Superfast ferries woman grim. J bought 2 lunch boxes, our last authentic Greek food on this trip. I had chicken swimming in a gravy of flavourful soggy vegetables. J the carnivore chose lamb.
Boarded ferry at 1600 and appalled by condition of dormitories (which we didn't have to pay anything for with our Eurail Selectpass). Waited ages for 1800 hrs to arrive.
Ship departed finally. Rushed down to reception together with another man waiting at dorm area to obtain an upgrade. Was directed to chief purser, a corpulent man, v. stern looking. Upgrades €42.00 each.
Ah... cabin v. luxurious after horrors of dormitories. Walked a bit on top deck and felt the strongest wind ever. Rather frightening.
Over dinner, found out the man and his wife were from the Philippines. Called Billy and Pat.
Slept knowing that tomorrow'd bring Italy!
10th May 2002
Right now am travelling through beautiful verdant Italian countryside. Rolling hills in the distance, picturesque tilled fields and ordered groves right outside the window. Eurostar train, 1st class, very comfortable and excellent apart from the poor isolation of smoking class air and the intermittent noisy horn.
This morning arrived in Bari 8.45 Italian time (1 hr behind Greek). Bought train tickets and had lunch at Macdonald's (again!). Realized that Superfast woman in Patras had written 10/05 on our Eurailpass, thus saving us a day. Train slightly jerky so will stop writing for now.
Now stopped at Maddaloni sup. Just now at Foggia. Really in Italy!! While waiting at platform 1 for train just now, had v. sour strawberries. A slim youth with dark, large eyes walked past. Italians quite chic, better dressed than Greeks and women prettier. On the whole Greek men look better, but Italian youths are just like Renaissance portraits.
Right beside me on the left is an empty, ochre-painted building with wooden shutters. A tapered brick chimney rises behind it and in front sways a willow-like sapling. On the right is a quarry ringed with deep vegetation. Beautiful.
Arrived in Rome 1700 hrs. Telephoned Quod, obtained directions and proceeded to Metro. Ticket dispensing machines not working at all. A furtive man tried to steal the Trafalgar wallet from my bag while I was busy battling the machine! J stopped him.
Metro Line A extremely crowded. Alighted at Ottaviano stop. Walked a few blocks to Quod. Quod housed in an elegant building with a uniformed guard in front. Same building as British school. Old-fashioned lift. Nando waiting for us at door. V. handsome, dressed in a loose tie-dyed emerald-sapphire cotton shirt, longish curls. Told us that to beat Pantheon's closing time must start at once.
Took very long walk, winding through countless streets till Pantheon reached. Entered, was flabbergasted by sheer majesty and beauty. Forgot to bring guidebook, borrowed Lonely Planet from trio of backpackers but silly thing didn't elaborate on the interior paintings. An old lady asked me if the angel with the horn was David or Gabriel. Left Pantheon in a state of joy.
Decided to see Colosseum at night. Walked round a corner and was confronted with bedazzling sight of a most splendiferous building. Later on, across the road, asked nice couple what building actually was. Was informed that splendid building was Monument of Victor Emmanuel, and also that intricate carved column next to us was Trajan's Column.
Strolled up Via di Imperiali(?) to Colosseum. Marvellously lit. Weird goings-on within, with high-power beams scanning the night sky. Just beside was Arch of Constantin. Some Italian TV filming was going on, with black-gowned blonde posing in front of videocam. A fat old businessman walked past with extremely slender, chic, beautifully sculpted trophy lass.
Walked up Via Sacre, the Sacred Way, and turned into the Fori Imperiali and entrance to the Palatine Hills.
Went back to heart of the city, went down wide, busy, glittering Via ___________ and turned into street to the Trevi Fountain.
Fountain much bigger than expected. Thronging with people, rose-sellers and flickering endless camera flashes. Fountain quite clean and water cold and sparkling. Threw a coin into it to ensure a return to the Eternal City. Bought second gelato in shop, then wandered around small shop selling touristy stuff. Turned back into main street, then right into via Condotti.
Lined with famous brand-name shops, chic Italians and an air of moolah. Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna rather disappointing. Full of raucous youths and people strumming guitars. But we ascended famous steps anyway and viewed the obelisk set on monument to Pope Pius (or Innocent?). (*Saw woman in tight red leather coat strolling Dalmatian. Would hardly see that in Singapore.)
P.S. Quod has a nice, vanilla/ flowery smell. Probably from the bakery's yeast.
11th May 2002
(Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, Galleria Borghese, via Cristoforo Colombo)... pizza ...
12th May 2002
A day beset with surprises. In the morning sped to Hotel Fleming (Grand Hotel Fleming) and dumped our bags, had a quick breakfast & hopped onto the Trafalgar bus.
Local guide Laura quite alright, tour director Rosella seems competent. Visited the Colosseum, bought tickets on our own & entered the ruin. Was late for gathering because too fascinated by Colosseum & walking entire round of seats.
Decided not to do option of Catacomb (rip off!) & walked to the Mouth of Truth. Had touristy moment posing for photograph in a gesture à la Hepburn.
Was led to a rose garden. Weird configuration of bushes, but rather nice in a roses-are-nice way. Rushed by bus to Piazza San Pietro, or St. Peter's Square. Arrived few moments before 12 noon. A huge crescendo of applause greeted appearance of the Pope at his chamber window (marked by a gold-edged red carpet). Heard entire speech and blessing of Pope. V. far, but managed to get some shots with my zoom.
Had lunch in a self-service cafe. Horrific tourist prices, but riso quite nice. After lunch, took photo of duo of Swiss guards in colourful medieval costumes/ uniforms.
Entry into Basilica San Pietro. Awe-inspiring & tremendous in size, masterful art work in every niche & over every surface. 26 chapels contained in it, 3 bodies of popes & superb work of Bernini. And of course la Pieta by Michelangelo. Could not even begin to take in splendour before being hustled out. Miffed but at least not too unsatisfied.
Decided, with 2 girls we met on the Colosseum (in the tour) to break away from Trafalgar (who were going back to the hotel!!) and visit Catacombs on our own. Took a taxi up the Appian Way, and turned into the Callisto Catacombs. Waited for an English guide, then had most informative lecture on history, significance & other stuff about Catacombs before descending into 2nd level. 1st level most ancient, altogether 4 levels. Rather affecting, esp. tombs of babies & families. Saw replica of Santa Cecilia (St. Cecilia) dedicated to Edith Cecilia ... V. moving.
After that, bought large cards of the Pieta, Last Judgment of Christ & the Trevi Fountain before walking on to the next Catacombs, the Catacombe Domitilla. Practically deserted. Waited in church before guide joined us. Was informed that church was the only underground church in Rome, and is dedicated to 2 soldier-martyrs. Guide absolutely great, loved her subject and led us on a wonderful tour through the Catacombs.
Later on, beside road, met a lady waiting to go to Trastavere poring over the bus map. Since that's where we were going, offered to join us. Waited a long time for bus. Found out she was from Holland, had sold all her belongings and was now on a one-year stay in Italy. She had just finished 3 months' stay in a monastery and had also worked on a farm before.
After alighting from bus at San Giovanni, took Tram 3 to Trastavere. On tram, a nun was talking to two American ladies. Overheard nun was from Massachusetts, and is spending her third year in Italy, in church of Santa Cecilia. Her name was Gertrude. Later the Dutch lady struck up a conversation with Sister Gertrude. Upon alighting, Sister Gertrude offered to take us to her church, S. Cecilia. Delighted, because that's something we were wanting to see. Passed through lovely local areas and came upon a great square with Italian old ladies & children playing soccer. Sister Gertrude brought us into the church, and left with many smiles.
S. Cecilia church absolutely beautiful. Wonderful paintings & a splendid mosaic of Jesus & saints/ apostles (?) on a gold background set in semicircular nave above altar. Below altar the actual statue of S. Cecilia, sculpted as she was found after centuries, an incorruptible. Her neck ringed with the line of her decapitation (martyred while singing in defiance of her persecutors) and her 3 closed fingers representing the Trinity, her forefinger symbolizing the wholeness of the Godhead.
Took a picture with Dutch lady, her name as we found out was Henriette. The two girls were Doris and May, from Indonesia and Malaysia respectively. Henriette said my name was lovely.
Walked through quaint Trastavere streets. Henriette told us of her search for spiritual peace. A Christian, though not baptized, she's also interested in Buddhism. A very nice, intelligent person. Reached small church, went in and saw part of a service. Thought it was Basilica of Santa Maria. Turned a corner and saw real Basilica of Santa Maria. Entered and heard most lovely choral singing. Left after lingering for quite a few moments.
Parted from Henriette with regrets. Strolled with May and Doris. Saw street musicians and increasing numbers of Italians out for dinner. Finally chose a trattoria with yellow tablecloths. Ordered a pizza, mushrooms sauteed, Roma chicken for myself. Had continuous cheerful talk with Doris & May.
Finally, took taxi back to hotel. No air-conditioning, as it's controlled centrally by the hotel and not to be switched on until June.
(* Passed by Circus Maximus. *Sister Gertrude told us that a square halo symbolized a person who was still living at the time of the work.
13th May 2002
(Park Hotel Villa Fiorita)
Arrivederci Roma! Changed money into smaller notes at bank, got onto bus and went on long long journey to Venezia in the North. Passed through lovely scenery of Umbria and the Appernine mountains/ hills?
Stopped at an autogrill for lunch. Had Zuppa (soup, minestrone) and fried potatoes. Extremely salty, but soup was rather good.
Hotel set v. deep in Monastier, 40~45 minutes from Venice. Since there was practically no way to get to Venice on our own, opted for the "Venice by Night" option.
Local guide Rita, very knowledgeable and pointed out various palazzos of note. The shimmering lights upon the choppy waters and the ornate palaces themselves conjured up a most magical image. Rita told us that the present owners of the palazzos were not financially capable of maintaining the entire palazzos and had to live on the top floor where the servants' quarters formerly were.
Gliding down the Grand Canal, saw a beautifully lighted casino. Alighted and set foot on San Marco island! Walked to entrance of St. Mark's Square, where 2 entrance pillars of Venice were, one with St. Theodore on a crocodile on top and the other crowned with the winged lion of Mark. Not supposed to go between the pillars because that's what convicted murderers did.
St. Mark's Square and Basilica beautiful at night. Sat in a cafe and had tea while a trio (saxophonist, pianist, cellist) played jazzy tunes. A sublime experience underneath the Venetian moon.
Got back to hotel very late and drowsy, fell asleep right after taking a bath.
(Dinner: Pasta, Fish, Gelato)
14th May 2002
Woke up to a misty morning. Hotel fountain strange and romantic in the haze. Took bus to Trachetto, parking lot of Venice, then boarded a vaporetto via Giudecca Canal to the island of San Marco.
Pigeons galore, and even more people. Visited a Murano glass factory (not on Murano) and viewed glass blowing demonstration. Glassware in showrooms mostly tacky, but there were a few gorgeous pieces and an exact replica of the red goblet Katherine Hepburn was mesmerized by in "Summertime". All terribly expensive. (*Red glass is more expensive because gold has to be added into the mixture to obtain Venetian red.)
Got into Basilica San Marco without trying the white lie Rosella imparted (of getting into the back door on the pretext of wanting to say a prayer). Wonderfully breathtaking, beautiful beyond belief and if possible more affecting than St. Peter's Basilica. Shafts of light streamed from the upper windows to gild the surfaces of the intricate mosaics.
After lingering in the Basilica, went up to the Loggia and got a bird's eye view of St. Mark's Square as well as saw the actual 4 horses of which replicas now stand on the Basilica facing the square.
Doge's Palace the next. Exterior laced with graceful Byzantine window frames. Walked through rooms of the Doges. Not terribly impressed, as all were similar and none of especial beauty nor hideousness. But the Maggiore Loggia (?) a different matter altogether. Tintoretto's huge "Paradise" dominated an entire wall. Room of great size, and Titian's ceiling frescos also very lovely.
Passed through 4 rooms full of armoury, then crossed the Bridge of Sighs. A total letdown. Nothing romantic whatsoever about it. The prison cells were creepy though they were reckoned fair at that time. One prisoner even died of a surfeit of chocolate and cake. While exiting the Palace, saw the original statue of St. Theodore with a funny crocodile.
Rapidly got drawn into Venice's many fascinating shops. Bought a glass pen and various postcards.
Arrived at Rialto Bridge. Much overrated. Venice's alleys and small canals the best parts of the islands, plus the shops.
Slowly wound our way to Basilica Frari. Fodor's Exploring Venice a detailed and hilarious guide to the various artworks. Titian's "Assumption" ("Assunta") gloriously lit with artistic genius (and sunlight), Canova's pyramidal tomb crawled with wonderfully melodramatic (but quite well sculpted) statuary, and the tomb of Doge Giovanni Pesaro:
"... This shockingly kitsch tomb is by far the most fun and most spectacularly vulgar in the church. Sculpted by Melchiore Barthal in 1669, it was probably designed by Longhena, normally a fairly measured architect. Four Moors support the superstructure, each equipped with padded pillows to help bear the strain. Between them languish two half rotted cadavers, their bones sticking through blackening flesh, while above them stand two massive griffins and a figure punching the air. Pesaro, a tiny figure near the roof, seems to be holding his hands up in horror at the whole affair... "
Two other divine paintings were Titian's "Madonna di Ca Pesaro, or Madonna and Child with saints and the Pesaro Family" (1526), and the lovely triptych by Giovanni Bellini of the "Madonna and Child between St.s Nicholas, Peter, Mark and Benedict" (1488).
Went into mask shop. Selection the best we'd seen so far, although prices a little bit higher. Bought a small ceramic plague doctor's mask. Lingered a long time fingering and trying on various masks.
Walked off in search of mask shop recommended in guidebook, but it was an absolute letdown. Ran back to nice shop. Mulled a long, long time over masks before choosing one. J bought a small hanging mask for himself and a purple butterfly mask for ts.
Ran back to pier as were late. Arrived out of breath and perspiring freely. The entire vaporetto clapped. Embarrassing to the extreme.
Dinner was lasagna, very stiff dry chicken and ice cream with berries. Maggie from Canada made small talk.
15th May 2002
Another day of much travelling. In mid-morning arrived at Verona, where we were brought to Juliet's (Giulettia's) fake balcony and her statue, whose right breast one was supposed to grab to improve prospects in matters amatory.
Lunch at another autogrill, some seafood risotto and a slice of apple pie. Sped on towards Florence.
Baptistery's bronze door a marvel; interior similarly terrific. Mosaics unbelievably intricate and skilfully done. Duomo unusual in that its interior was almost plain.
Walked on to Piazza della Signoria. Copy of David, as well as various other statues. Went on down medieval streets and viewed oldest building in Firenze, now incorporated into a hotel.
Proceeded into Santa Croce with local guide Patricia. Saw tombs of Michelangelo, Michiavelli and Galileo Galilei. Rossini the last person to be buried in the church. Quite informative, when coupled with the Blue Guide.
Went to view some Florentine gold. Shown a marvellous gold crochet scarf and admired a few delicate gold bracelets.
Came back to hotel. Dinner prolonged. Had v. interesting talk with Russian (now New York) couple and doctor with her son. Russian couple extremely friendly, and told anecdotes of their days of awaiting residency in the United States, selling things in Italy. Also mentioned fact that there were Chinese, Ethiopian Jews (!), as they were Jewish themselves.
After dinner, Maggie entertained us with a 60-70s repertoire. Voice v. good, and guitar skills impeccable (to me at least). Sang "Me and Bobby McGee" twice, the second time at the behest of Rolf the Swiss-Italian waiter -- who said "five minutes" every ten minutes or so and finally joined in the "na na na" chorus.
(*Russian lady's gossip: She'd seen Elton John naked when she worked at Manhattan's poshest hotel. The Queen of Jordan was extremely gracious. Billy Joel was the height of stinginess.)
16th May 2002
Lovely, lovely Florentine day. Arrived morning near Santa Croce, Luigi the driver got fined €200 for illegal stopping. Went for a leather demonstration where we saw the gilding of leather. Shown very nice suede-like shirt, all very expensive.
Walked to "Gold Corner" and reserved the bracelet. Hurried vigorously across the Arno River and arrived at Pitti Palace out of breath. Saw gorgeous Raphaels, Titians and Filippo Lippis. Medici Rooms far more luxurious and tastefully furnished than Doge's Palace in Venice.
Went across the street to a Dali exhibition. Took illegal photographs, and was enthralled by his etchings of Dante's Inferno.
Wandered through increasingly medieval streets to the San Lorenzo church. Entered, viewed all exhibits and realized that main draws were through another entrance. Went around building and got in to the Medici Chapel(s)? Saw the imposing, magnificent tombs of the Medici Grand Dukes and the 2 famous tombs by Michelangelo. Saw his doodlings on 2 facing perspex-protected walls.
Joined the queue for the Accademia. Surprisingly quick and were in within five min.s. Passed through room full of wonderful paintings and saw David in an alcove -- actually domed room -- of his own, wondrously lighted. Admired Michelangelo's 'slaves' first, before making reverent circle around perfection of David. Sneaked a photo of him from behind a pillar.
Upstairs found rooms of medieval paintings, mostly of Madonna and Child. Saw quite a few "sly" Madonnas and "deformed" baby Jesuses. Both couldn't help sniggering.
(* Before San Lorenzo, went into Gianini's paper establishment and bought a few beautifully rendered bookmarks.)
After Accademia, wandered around and then went in search of Agli Uffizi B&B. Found it a few seconds from Piazza Signoria (noble).
Went back in general direction of Santa Croce. Pastries enticed J all the way. He finally succumbed and bought a huge bag of weird Florentine breads.
Visited Santa Croce again and viewed Giotto frescos by inserting €0.20 into "computer-light".
Went back to 'Gold Corner' and bought the bracelet.
Sat at sidewalk cafe. Were the last customers before they closed in preparation for dinner. Met Doris who'd done a lot of shopping. Walked down street to await Trafalgar bus.
Dinner not included tonight, so walked up the road with May and Doris, Jemma and Jeff to Pizza Ristorante. Within an hour the restaurant was full with locals and practically everybody from our Trafalgar group. Ordered Chianti (red). Took a sip and felt groggy quite soon. The waiter, who resembled Stallone, gave us strange mashed veggies he said was "soup". Dinner talk soon became very jolly. Hilarity all round and everyone shrieked in unison when I gave twist to ghost story. Trafalgar couple at next table probably thought I was drunk on Chianti.
Short walk to Hotel Galileo. Moon crescent and surrounded by stars, air nippy. May-Doris-Jeff-Jemma crowded into our room to appreciate the contorted Klimt-esque? woman and the crawling-out-of-Arno figure in print of old Firenze.
17th May 2002
( Parco Tirreno Residence) Departed from Florence and drove through green Tuscan country to Assisi. Very beautifully medieval. Rough stone walls and small winding streets set on a hill overlooking the most pleasant valley.
Visited the Basilica of St. Clare (Santa Chiara). Nice location, and saw her wax figure. Followed guide Eugenio up town and stopped to admire a classical facade with Corinthian columns, as well as a vault painted with old Roman grotesqueries.
Road leading up to Basilica of St. Francis (S. Franceso, because his mother was from France; his real name was Giovanni) extremely picturesque. To the left the valley, in front the rose Basilica and behind the little medieval town. Went into crypt where St. Francis's remains are still kept in their original stone, and saw frescos by Giotto.
Had soup (zuppa) for lunch. Before heading back to Roma, Rosella led us on a short visit to the church where St. Francis died. The original, simple church is now housed in an elegant, dignified one. A very wonderful church, and we went past the garden where there was a delightful bronze of St. Francis and also the thornless roses attributed to him.
Slept almost entire way to Roma. Arrived at Hotel Parco Tirreno. Most centrally located of all Trafalgar hotels so far, the nearest Metro station (Cornelia) actually a walk away. Room also the largest till now, almost a suite.
Went out with May and Doris for dinner. Visited the Spanish Steps and the Trevi fountain again. Waited at Fontana di Trevi for the underwater lights to come on.
Before the fountain, had dinner at a local pizzeria. Ordered pasta and some weird dish that turned out to be aubergine. Yucks.
Threw two coins in the Trevi Fountain to guarantee a return to Rome and wish for my heart's desire.
Strolled down byway and chanced upon a makeshift stall selling posters. J and I each bought a small poster of Audrey Hepburn peering out of a bus window.
Took metro from Barberini (a long walk!) back to hotel. Rosella refunded us the money for Quod's second night in addition to the taxi fares she compensated earlier in the evening. Really quite a nice person. Felt thankful that I had graded her 'Excellent' in the survey form by Trafalgar. Gave her €20 tip each.
19th May 2002
(Uffizi, Sunday Market, Bookshop, Drinking coffee standing at cinema cafe, woman at night singing opera)
20th May 2002
Waited for Agli Uffizi help to arrive, paid her €55 and dragged all our luggage to Firenze S.M.N. (Santa Maria Novella) Station. Got on Fumatori (Smoking) carriage! Eurostar train rather more luxurious-looking than the Bari-Roma.
Hours of cigarette smoke wafted us to Milan. Hopped on Basel-bound train. Settled comfortably into seats when at last minute an entire bunch of Swiss middle-aged revellers crowded onto train with reservations. Had to move everything and sit furthest from window.
First view of Swiss Alps stupendous. Clouds dusting craggy peaks with snow, cows grazing placidly in flower-speckled meadows and timber chalets perched cheerfully on tussocky mountainsides.
Flew over rippling lake gilded silver by sun and saw more breathtaking scenery. Swiss shoppers got off at AP-Goldan.
Luzern tourist office very friendly. Lugged our luggage past Lake Luzern and Chapel Bridge to Tourist Hotel. Man at reception spoke good English.
Wandered out into Luzern old town. All shops closed. Whit Monday, plus shops close at 1800 anyway. Met an old man, who'd been to Singapore thrice or more, who directed us to the Lion Monument and was very friendly.
Lion Monument just a turn away. Very peaceful, beautiful and extremely moving. Stone mottled with reflection from pool and almost no other tourists around. Went out to the lake and saw lots of swans and ducks. Mount Pilatus extremely imposing in the background. Whole place picturesque beyond imagination.
Walked down Chapel Bridge and the other wooden bridge. River very fast-flowing and swans bracing themselves against current.
Returned to hotel, got recommendation for fondue eatery but restaurant very dear. Since food places close at 2200, went rapidly around stretch of tourist traps until found one at 2120, finally dark.
Had tomato soup with basil, juicy cordon bleu chicken and seltzer water. Quite a good meal, but very expensive.
Luzern just a wee bit boring, it seems.
21st May 2002
Got up and had breakfast (included!). Quite good, with yoghurt and milk and cornflakes & bread and juice etc.
Went to tourist information office, was told train for Engelberg starting in five minutes and ran to platform 14. Managed to get seats beside Hong Kong couple. Lovely scenery all the way to Engelberg. At one point the train ascended a steep slope.
Engelberg nice and quiet. Fields full of wildflowers in sumptuous yellow, furry dandelions and pink blooming weeds. A turquoise brook bisects the town.
Took cable car up to Rotair station. On the way up passed grazing cows hung with metal cow bells. Very Alpine and quite wonderful. Rotair a slight disappointment, but the views of the mountain ranges and clear sky were terrific. At the station, ventured into an ice grotto. Was freezing, since only had a jacket on.
Went onto the glacier and took in the crisp summit air. Paid CHF10 for a sky lift to a ledge, over some ravishing ravines.
On the ledge a surprise awaited. Could take free tube/ chair/ sled slides down a snowy path. Took sled twice and was exhilarating each time. Put legs out to steady myself and had snow flying up all over. Extremely fun.
Went back to station, had a Movenpick icecream each (strawberry & rhubarb for me) and then back to the Rotair. Down to the standing lift, the cable car and then the train.
Back in Lucerne. Shopped around, but nothing of interest at all apart from watches. Boucherer store an enormous sham. Luxury items and low-end tacky tourist souvenirs. Entered a supermarket for chocolates and bought lots and lots.
Dinner at MacDonald's, since fondue was too expensive (CHF30~~ each!!). J tried Rivella (milk serum!!!) but it just tasted like ordinary soda.
Switzerland definitely un-chic after the natural style and elegance of Italy. Even Bata was fashionable in Italy. CHF v. like Singapore.
(*Tried finding the Wilhelm Tell panel on the Kappelbruke but couldn't. Saw a rat along the river last night. Weather not that frigid. Swiss are polite and somewhat dull.)
