A-line

A design commonly used in female clothing. It is a cut of plain garment consisting basically of two “A”-shaped panels for the front and back, designed to give increasing fullness towards the hemline. Generally used for dresses and coats.

Angora

The hair of the Angora goat or the Angora rabbit. Very fine, lightweight, extremely warm and fluffy. Angora is used mostly in knitwear- gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc., for women and children.

Anorak

A hooded pullover jacket originally made of fur and worn by the native people of the Arctic.

>Appliqué

Ornamental work on one material that has been applied or sewn onto a garment. Also used to describe the actual ornamentation.

Argyle

A pattern for knitted articles, especially socks, having a diamond-shaped pattern in two or more colors.

Ascot

A necktie or scarf with broad ends, tied and arrange so that the ends are laid flat, one across the other, sometimes with a pin to secure them.

Balaclava

One of several garments to emerge from the Crimean war. A close-fitting, knitted cap that covers the head, neck, and tops of shoulders, worn esp. by mountain climbers, soldiers, skiers, etc. Modern term would be a ski mask.

Baldric (also: Bandolier)

Sword hanger, often decorated with elaborate embroidery (usually metal thread) Baldrics are worn across the body, usually from the right shoulder to the left hip (over a waistcoat or doublet, but under the coat, though it is sometimes worn over the coat to show off exquisite embroidery.

Balmoral Tam

A brimless Scottish cap with a flat top that projects all around the head. Also referred to as a Tam-O’Shanter.

Bandanna

A large, printed handkerchief, typically with white spots or figures on a red or blue background—the red ones are the most common. Usually used for the neck or head. The word was first used in the West by cowboys, who used it for everything from a tourniquet, to a water collector, to makeshift handcuffs!

Batik

A technique of hand-dyeing fabrics using wax as a dye repellent to create patterns in the material.

Boater

A flat-topped hat with a relatively narrow flat brim. It was traditionally made of stiffened straw braid, but synthetic fibers are now sometimes used.

Bonnet

Generally used to describe a women’s, girl’s, or baby’s cap with long ties or ribbons to secure under the chin. There is also often a deep brim.

Bouclé

Looped yarn producing a rough, nubby appearance on woven or knitted fabrics. Usually used on outerwear, i.e. coats.

Bowler

An oval hat with round, rigid crown or dome and a small, shaped, curved brim. It was a stiff hat normally made out of felt. It is also known as a derby.

Breeches

Knicker-like pants ending just below the knee. From the late 16th century until the early 19th century, most men and boys wore breeches as their lower body garment. Worn by all levels of society, breeches were made in a great variety of silks, cottons, linens, wools, knits, and leathers.

Brocade

A rich, heavy fabric with elaborate design (usually the patterns have a raised effect). Often the threads are colored or metallic against a satin weave background, which makes the figures stand out. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs.

Burlap

A plain-woven, coarse fabric of jute, hemp, or the like; gunny.

Calache or calash

A protective folding hood made to protect high headdresses c. 1770s-1830s and made like a sunbonnet.

Calico

A plain woven cotton cloth printed with a figured pattern, usually on one side.

Camaca

A heavy fabric of silk or mixed fibers, much used in the Middle Ages.

Camisole

A short garment worn underneath a sheer bodice to conceal the underwear. A woman’s negligee jacket. A sleeved jacket or jersey once worn by men.

Camlet

A rich fabric of medieval Asia believed to have been made of camel’s hair or angora wool.

Camp shirt

A short-sleeved shirt or blouse with a notched collar and usually two breast pockets.

Canvas

A closely woven, heavy cloth of cotton, hemp, or linen, used for tents, sails, etc.

Cape	A sleeveless garment of various lengths, fastened around the neck and falling loosely from the shoulders, worn separately or attached to a coat or other outer garment.

Capote

A long cloak with a hood. A close-fitting, caplike bonnet worn by women and children in the mid-Victorian period.

Cardigan

A usually collarless knitted sweater or jacket that opens down the front.

Cashmere

The fine, downy wool at the roots of the hair of the Kashmir goat. Valuable and expensive for its’ rarity, usually used in sweaters, scarves, and the like.

Cassock, also Casaque

Three-quarter length coat cut with wide, full sleeves and wide throughout the body, ending at thigh-height or below. An unbelted overcoat, open-sided and almost covered with braid and woven ornament. It was worn from the middle of the 16th century, mainly for hunting and riding.

Cendal

A rich material resembling taffeta. It was made in various qualities, sometimes even mentioned as a luxury fabric, sometimes only as a cheap lining material. Widely used during the Middle Ages, but in the 17th century it was only used for lining.

Charmeuse

A soft, lightweight, drapable fabric of silk or synthetic fibers, having a semilustrous satin face and a dull back.

Chemise

A light undergarment made from linen, for both sexes.

Coif	Medieval to 17th century term for close-fitting head covering. Worn in the later period exclusively by women.

Corduroy

Cotton corduroy was widely used by workers in the 19th century and became a popular fabric by the early 20th century because of its warmth and durability.

Coronet

A small crown worn by the nobility as a symbol of their rank.

Cotehardie, also surcote

A “supertunic” or upper gown worn throughout the 14th century by both sexes. While the kirtle, which was usually worn by women under the cotehardie, followed the body line down to the hips, the cotehardie was usually wide and flimsy, made of thick and expensive materials. It was usually made of brocade or embroidered and at one point the so-called heraldic cotehardie was popular, with the heraldic motifs or coat of arms of the wearer embroidered or sewn into it.

Cowboy hat (Also: Stetson, Ten gallon hat)

A cow boy hat is a generic term for a variety of wide-brimmed hats worn with a variety of crowns. The name comes from the hats that became popular with Cowboys in the American West. Related to the Mexican “Sombrero”. Usually made of felt and to a lesser extent leather.

Cravat

Wide cloth or piece of lace knotted around the neck.

Crepe

A lightweight fabric of silk, cotton, or other fiber, with a finely crinkled or ridged surface.

Crown

Head-dress usually made of gold and worn as a symbol of sovereignty by monarchs.

Culottes

French word for rather tight breeches.

Damask

Originally a silk fabric made in Damascus, only one color, with patterns of flowers, branches, and animals in satin finish contrasting with the slightly textured taffeta background. Multi-colored damasks are called lampas.

Décolletage

This term refers to the neckline of a dress. It is often used to describe the plunging necklines of women’s dresses in the early 19th century—namely a strapless dress or one with a plunging neckline.

Deerstalker

A close-fitting cap with a visor at the front and at the back and with earflaps that may be worn either up or down. Think Sherlock Holmes!

Diadem

A crown, usually used to describe an ornamental headband used as a symbol of royal rank.

Dimity

A thin cotton fabric, white, dyed, or printed, woven with a stripe or check of heavier yarn.

Dirndl

A dress with a tight bodice, short sleeves, low neck, and a full, gathered neck, generally associated with the Tyrol.

Doublet

A short jacket (usually sleeveless) worn by men throughout the 16th and 17th century.

Duffle

A coarse, thick woolen material.

Duffle coat

A warm, hooded garment with hemp and wooden toggle fastenings, used with the duffel material.

Ear muffs

A pair of usually adjustable coverings to cover the ears in cold weather. Usually made of furs.

Embroidery

Ornamented needlework in fiber or metal threads.

Eyelet

A lightweight fabric pierced by small holes finished by stitching and often laid out in flowerlike designs.

Fedora

A brimmed soft felt hat with curled brim and a distinctly tapered crown that is dented lengthways.

Felt	A nonwoven fabric in wool, fur, or hair, matted together by heat, moisture, and great pressure.

Fez	A brimless cap with a truncated conical shape that is flat on top. A long black tassel is normally attached at the top center. Red Fezes were formerly worn by men and boys in Islamic countries.

Fichu

Large neckerchief at the end of the 18th century that was worn around the neck and shoulders together with the Robe a la Anglaise.

Fishnet

An open-mesh weave looking like a fishing net, such as fishnet stockings.

Flannel

A soft, warm, light fabric of cotton or cotton and another fiber, thickly napped on one side and used for sleepwear, undergarments, sheets, etc.

Fleece

A fabric with a soft, silky pile, used for warmth, as for lining garments or outerwear such as scarves, hats, and mittens.

Flip-flop

A flat, backless rubber sandal, usually secured on the foot by a thong between the first two toes, as for use at a beach, swimming pool, or casual wear and play. Also called a thong and zori.

Flounce

A band of cloth or lace fluting around a garment to which it is attached only by its upper edge.

Fool’s cap

A medieval jester’s cap or hood, often multicolored and usually having several drooping peaks from which bells are hung.

Frill

An ornamental trimming, such as a strip of cloth or lace, gathered at one edge and left loose at the other. Also referred to as a ruffle.

Frock

A loose gown or dress as worn by a child or woman.

Frock coat

A close-fitting, knee-length coat worn by men in the late 19th century. Worn with both single-breasted and double-breasted styles with a vent or cut in the back.

Garters

Ribbon tied around the leg to hold up stockings or hose.

Gaucho

Wide, calf-length trousers for men or women based on the trousers worn by South American gauchos (cowboys).

Gauze

Any thin and often transparent fabric made from any fiber in a plain weave.

Gorget

A wimple of the Middle Ages, worn with the ends fastened in the hair.

Gossamer

An extremely delicate variety of gauze, used esp. for veils. Some variations are woven with metallic thread which causes it to shimmer.

Greatcoat

A heavy overcoat or great-coat.

Guernsey

A close-fitting knitted woolen shirt worn by sailors and soccer or Rugby players.

Guimpe

A chemisette or lace yoke, embroidery, or other material, worn with a low-cut dress.

Gunny

A strong, coarse material made commonly from jute, esp. for bags or sacks; burlap.

Hennin

A cone-shaped high headdress worn by women in the 15th century. What we usually imagine fairies and castle maidens to wear. Cone-shape was worn reduced to a cylinder in England.

Homespun

Spun or made at home. Ex: homespun cloth.

Hound’s tooth

A pattern of broken or jagged checks, used on a variety of fabrics. Also called houndstooth, or hound’s-tooth check.

Houppelande

An upper garment worn by men and women in the 15th century. It was a gown fitted at the shoulders and wide in the body, fastened by a belt at the waist (among men) or under the breasts (among women). A man’s houppelande was usually more elaborate than a woman’s, having a high collar and imaginatively designed sleeves. It’s length depended on fashion and occasion.

Jabot

Originally the term meant the neck opening of a chemise, and its lace trimmings, showing through the opening at the doublet. It became an early cravat of lace, often ready-made, worn during the 17th century. The lace fell in a soft bunch to the upper chest and was either knotted and draped or tied in a soft bow.

Jackboot

Over-knee high riding boot with square toes and a low heel, made from stiff leather.

Jerkin

Outer doublet worn in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was sleeveless or with loose sleeves.

Khaki

A stout, twilled cotton cloth of this color, used esp. in making uniforms.

Kilt	A kilt is the traditional clothing of Scotland. Originally a large blanket pleated around the waist; held by a large, broad belt. The excess free cloth was gathered and pinned to the shirt or coat with a brooch on the left shoulder.

Lamé	An ornamental fabric in which metallic threads, as of gold or silver, are woven with silk, wool, rayon, or cotton.

Leghorn

A fine, smooth, plaited straw. It is also the name of a hat made of this sort of straw, usually having a broad, soft brim, tied with a wide ribbon under the chin.

Linen

Fabric woven from flax yarns.

Liripipe

A hood with a long, hanging peak. It is also a long strip or tail of fabric hanging from a garment or headdress, especially the peak of this hood or a streamer on a chaperon or tippet.

Madras

A light, summery cotton fabric of various weaves, esp. one in multicolored plaid or stripes, used for shirts, dresses, jackets, etc.

Mantle

A fancy short cloak made of silk, lace, or fur, usually lined (unless lace), usually with an edging, often with a hood. Silk may be edged with lace, fabric ruffles, or fur; lace may be edged with lace. Cut like a cloak (basic half-circle cut) but shaped shorter at the sides to allow the forearms to move freely. Usually hangs to the elbow at the side, to the waist or lower in front or back. Possibly also called a "short cloak". Some versions are very small and may have been called "tippets" or something else. May also be just another name for a cloak.

Mantua, also Manteau

Widespread female dress of the late 17th century. Developed from a T-shaped garment, which is first pleated informally at the shoulders and the waist pleats are controlled by a belt. Instead of cutting the bodice and skirt as separate pieces that were sewn together, bodice and skirt were cut in one length from shoulder to hem. Cut to fall full in back and front, the garment was worn over a corset and an underskirt. Front skirt edges were often pulled to the back and fastened to form a draped effect, the so-called waterfall-backdrape.

Moiré

A silk, taffeta or similar material, presenting a watery or wavelike appearance.

Muff	Round band of fur or fur lined cloth to protect the hands from the cold.

Muffler

Scarves are worn for various purposes. Mufflers are heavy neck scarves.

Muslin

A cotton fabric made in various degrees of fineness and often printed, woven, or embroidered in patterns, esp. a cotton fabric of plain weave, used for sheets and for a variety of other purposes.

Nightcap

Worn in bed or in the 16th to 18th centuries informally within the house. Those worn by men were often exquisitely embroidered.

Organdy

A fine, thin cotton fabric usually having a durable crisp finish, white, dyed, or printed: used for blouses, dresses, curtains, trimmings, etc. Also,"or gan·die."

Organza

A sheer rayon, nylon, or silk fabric constructed in plain weave and with a crisp finish, used in the manufacture of evening dresses, trimmings, etc.

Paisley

A soft woolen fabric woven with a pattern of colorful and minutely detailed figures.

Pantofles

Female heelless slippers or mules worn during the 17th century, but getting even more fashionable toward the end of the period. They were made from brocade and embroidered leather.

Parka

A fur coat cut like a shirt with a hood. Also may be made of wool or other materials.

Pelisse

Padded cloak or coat worn for warmth by women.

Petticoat

An underskirt that has several purpouses. One of them is to prevent the textile of the upper gown from sticking to the skin. The other is to make the upper gown or skirt look more "full" and aboundant. The third is to put it over the hoops so that they wouldn't be visible under the upper skirt. Especially when using hoops, the best results are obvious only with several petticoats. They were usually made of linen or cotton, the more expensive and exquisite ones were made of silk, hemmed with lace. In 1820-1830, when the bell shape of the skirt was fashionable and the hoops were not yet re-envented, petticoats of some more solid materials were used, like horse and goat hair.

Plaid

Any fabric woven of differently colored yarns in a crossbarred pattern.

Polonaise

A gown which has been pulled up in back and on the sides into large poufs of fabric by means of cords, buttings, ties, or whatever means. Any open style of gown may be polonaised.

Pomander

From the French word “pomme” for apple, still in use in the first half of the 17th century by ladies. Small balls of perfume placed in decorated, perforated boxes and worn around the waist on chains.

Poncho

These blanket-like garments worn like a cloak in South America. The wool garments were woven like blankets, but had a slit in the middle for one’s head. There are no sleeve holes. It was worn for warmth.

Quilted jacket

A quilted jacket is made by stitching together two thicknesses of fabrics and padding or adding a soft insulation between the two layers. Wool was commonly used, but synthetic fibers are now more common.

Reticule

A small bag usually hanging on strings from the belt or wrist, used as a wallet or purse.

(Riding) habit

Woman's jacket, styled somewhat like a man's coat, often with a matching petticoat and a complementary waistcoat or false waistcoat front. The riding habit was worn not only for riding, but also as general day dress (as opposed to evening dress). Like a man's coat, the riding habit has a relatively narrow neck opening in front and a high neckline in back; it may or may not have lapels; it frequently has buttonholes, which may be false; it may have full skirts or be cut away. The habit is worn with an abbreviated shirt whose neck construction resembles a man's shirt; the habit shirt is worn over the shift and stays. May also refer to the entire outfit (both skirt and jacket) together. For riding, a split skirt was worn with the jacket.

Samite

A heavy silk fabric, sometimes interwoven with gold, worn in the Middle Ages.

Sarcenet

A fine, soft fabric, often of silk, made in plain or twill weave and used especially for linings.

Sash	A long band or scarf, usually made of silk, satin, or other fancy material. It is worn over the waist or shoulder.

Satin

A fabric in a warp-effect or filling-effect satin weave, as acetate, nylon, or silk, often having a glossy face and a soft, slippery texture.

Serge

A twilled worsted or woolen fabric used esp. for men’s clothing, riding habits and fine uniforms.

Sheer

A thin, diaphanous material, as chiffon or voile.

Shift

A shift was made similar to a modern day woman’s nightgown and usually was worn for sleeping purposes. It is also used to describe a light summer dress.

Silk	The soft, lustrous fiber obtained as a filament from the cocoon of the silkworm.

Slashings

Small openings made in a garment, showing the lining. Slashings were made in garments, shoes, and gloves.

Smock

A loose, lightweight over-garment worn to protect the clothing while working.

Sombrero

A wide-brimmed Mexican hat with a high, conical crown. The brim is usually turned up, unlike the American cowboy hat. Normally made of straw or felt.

Swiss muslin

A crisp, sheer muslin that is constructed in plain weave, bleached white or dyed, and often ornamented with raised dots or figures (dotted swiss),used chiefly in the manufacture of curtains and women's summer clothes.

Taffeta

A medium-weight or light-weight fabric of acetate, nylon, rayon, or silk, usually smooth, crisp, and lustrous, and with a fine crosswise rib effect.

Tartan

A woolen or worsted cloth woven with stripes of different colors and widths crossing at right angles, worn chiefly by the Scottish Highlanders, each clan having its own distinctive plaid.

Tippet

From the 16th century onwards it meant a short shoulder cape. (See: Mantle)

Tricorne

From French late 18th century term for a hat with turned up brim which has three corners.

Tulle

A thin, fine, usually machine-made net of acetate, nylon, rayon, or silk.

Tweed

A coarse wool cloth in a variety of weaves and colors, either hand-spun and handwoven in Scotland or reproduced, often by machine, elsewhere.