Is there a good source or substitute for the cables in 5/6 series
power seats? The dealer wants some $400 to replace mine- there must
be a better way!
Justin seiferth@netcom.com
In which Sherwood asks.. (two questions):
>Greeting,
>
>My wife and I own a '86 535i with 308K+ miles on it. I was wondering
>if anyone out there knows what the average "Life Expectancy" is?
>I looked through most of the FAQ files for this one with no luck.
>At present the only major problem we have with it is that we have to
>get the starter motor and fly-wheel replaced, other then that its
>running GREAT! My wife was told that we should be able
>to get atleast another 300K+ on the engine, the body is in very good
>condition.
Given that the body is in good condition - I don't think there
is ANY life expectancy. Everything else on the car is simply
mechanical, and CAN be fixed given a big enough budget. You
didn't mention if it is an auto or manual - the auto tranny
does seem to fail at about 100-150,000 miles (4th gear pack
looses it's seals). The engines, with some amount of care
may well last forever. Mine at 104k, when I adjust the valves
still looks like new, no noticable wear on the camshaft, and
compression readings are right on factory specs..
>Oh, I was looking for the answer to my following question in the FAQ
>files but came up blank, I'm having a problem with BOTH our electric
>headrests not working. I can hear the motor running but the headrests
>are basically stuck in one position. Is there a simple way to fix this
>problem? I read that several people had this problem as well but no
>one mentioned a way to cure this, other then taking it back to the
>dealer again.
This one is tougher - I'd just give up on them. The problem
with the headrests has to do with the inner cable drive
being too short. I've never checked if BMW has a replacement
inner cable, but someone told me they didn't - that it required
replacing the entire gearbox and cable assembly as a unit. I
guess ones out of later models (after '87) may fix the problem,
so a junkyard trip might be in order.
I've 'fixed' mine a number of times, requiring taking the
back off the seat and removing the motor to reseat the
inner cable drive - and it lasts about 4 up/downs. Last time
they both stopped about where I would want them anyway, so
I figured BOHICA could live with one flaw - and maybe this
one flaw would keep other flaws from occuring (karma)..
Best..
================================
Don Eilenberger (dje@mail.bellcore.com)
================================
'79 R65 FrankenCycle - der Beemer
'87 535i BOHICA - der Bimmer
'75 25' Hunter - das Boot
================================
DOD#1177, BMW-CCA#104316, BMW-MOA#64000
President - New Jersey Shore BMW Riders
NJ-DOD-Cycles, Fossil Riders of NJ Inc.
"A glutten for clubs.."
================================
First headrests:
Pull out the seat, it's only four bolts, and look at the motors
underneath. Find the one which buzzes when you push the headrest
button. Now pull the cable, it's probably stripped or pulled out
of the little adaptor. If stripped, you'll have to get a new
cable which are outrageously expensive ($40). Mine all turned
out o just have popped out of the adaptor. BTW, your 308K figure
gives me great hope for my car.
Tax Advertisement:
What's this person's e-mail address? Can we make them go away?
Stripped Nuts:
Get a hard, really hard wedge and drive it into the ramining nut.
It will break sooner or later. You can also get a carbide
bit dremel tool and cut through it- be careful about the dust
though.
Justin seiferth@netcom.com
Remove headrest motor. Push inner cableback into sleeve so it engauges into
trans. Cut a piece of coat hanger or welding rod about 5mm long. Drop the
piece into the drive end of the motor to take up the extra space. Reinstall
motor. This (as hokey as it may sound) is
the official fix as described in a service bulliten from BMW NA.
Hey!
Pretty interesting that's the 'factory fix'. I posted this
method a year or more ago (in great detail - where the screws
are for the motor, cutting the leather slightly, etc).
Figured it out myself 2 or 3 years ago when I replaced the stock
'armrest' seats in my old 535i with 'is' power seats from a wreck.
Sheesh!
What is is they say about necessity & invention?
I made the same fix on my old '88 M5.
So far, the E34 headrests still work. I'll know what to do when
they stop.
o.k.
I've received several requests for this post.
I can't find my original posting, so I'll try and do this from
memory.
o remove front seat rear cover:
- two small phillips-head screws at the bottom
corners of the cover.
- raise the cover up toward the ceiling - there
are two flat metal spring clips which hold the
top edge of the cover close to the seat back.
o the power headrest motor is located about midway in
the seat back close to one edge - right edge for the
driver's seat (maybe the same for the passenger's seat?)
there is a large phillips-head screw that holds the
motor mount bracket to the seat frame (maybe two).
the head of the screw is covered by leather - it's on the
surface facing the console for the driver's seat. make
a small'X' cut in the leather to give you access to the
screw head.
it's *much* easier to deal with the motor and its bolt(s)
on your terms (not upside down with no room).
o now you should have the headrest motor freed from the seat back.
remove the bolt that attaches the cable housing to the motor.
you should see a square cable inside the housing. the reason
the headrests stop working is because this cable is too short
and it backs its way out of the drive fitting on the headrest
end. turn the cable and push it gently towards the headrest
it should move in somewhat. this will re-engage the cable on
the far end.
look into the end of the motor and you'll see a small square
hole where the cable engages. place a 1/4" piece of wire
coathanger into this hole.
o reassemble and you should be all set for a long time!
o send me a cashier's check!;^)
I don't have en E28 at home anymore to look at to make sure I've
described all of the screws/bolts - I may be off by one or two so you'll
have to cut me a little slack...
I am a member of the BMW club and have run across a man advertising in the
BMWCCA Roundel Classified Section a permanent solution for the "headrest"
problem. I have not yet tried it myself but have heard his named mentioned
in a positive manner a few times. His name is:
Walter 504-887-1631
He also sells kits to repair SI boards.
Gregory Robinson
tcdfw@aol.com
85 BMW 535i
85 VW Vanagon
89 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
Over the past year I've read a lot of mail from people who take their
street cars to Driver's School, and want to add a 5-point harness
without drilling holes in their car. I recently tested a great system
from Larry Jordano at European Autosports (407-588-6358 or see
add in Roundel).
From my post yesterday, most of you know I just finished installing
an M3 motor in my '76 2002. What I didn't tell you was that I
brought the car to Larry's shop in West Palm Beach to have him sort
out a few last minute problems for me. He finished working on the
car at 5:00 last Saturday (Driver's School was the following
Sunday), and when I went to pick up the car I noticed he had
installed a 5-point harness for me to try out.
Larry mounts a cross bar that bolts into the factory shoulder harness
points, and has a brace welded to each end of the bar that runs back
to the outer seat belt bolts in the rear seat. The bottom of the rear seat
is removed when the bar is bolted in, but is retained after the bar is
installed. He mounts the two shoulder belts to the cross bar, and in
my 2002 I ran them through the headrest. Larry then mounts a plate
on the floor, attached to the front seat bolts. The two lap belts, and a
submarine belt attach to this plate. I used this setup last weekend at
Moroso Motorsports Park, and it was excellent. Combined with the
Recarro front seats from a 320is, I was solidly locked into my
driver's seat. In fact, on the first lap of one of my sessions, I
realized I hadn't latched the hood and couldn't reach it with the
harness cranked tight, so I had to use my foot to push the hood lever
down!
While this may not be optimal for racing, where you expect a lot of
contact, I think it is a great compromise for those of us with
street/track cars. The standard shoulder/lap belts are still functional,
and I just tucked them out of the way at the track. Back on the street
you can either tuck the harness out of sight, or take the entire setup
out of the car. All it takes is to remove the bottom section of the back
seat, and remove four bolts, take out the bar, and replace the back
seat.
The workmanship was superb, and the added security of a 5-point
harness really helped my driving (the M3 engine didn't hurt, either!).
Larry has templates to make the bar for E36 and E30 cars, just made
one for his 530i, and is using my bar to make a template for 2002's.
He can essentially make a bar for any car that he can get his hands on
(and given how busy his shop is, that should not be a problem). I
don't know how much he charges, but it is worth it; I'm going to
buy the one he let me try out in my car. I'm not affiliated with Larry
or European Autosports, but the service and workmanship associated
with Larry's product deserves the recommendation. He can also set
you up with the belts, and makes mounts for video cameras. I used
the video camera mount this past weekend, and the film is pretty
wild. When I told him I didn't have my own camera, he told me he
buys so many camera mounts that he gets great deals on the cameras
as well.
Ian
'76 M2002
'88 535is
Regarding Tom Meyer's question on what to use for the
interior, Hide Food is great. I prefer Lexol. There is a
Leather Cleaner and a Leather Conditioner. Both are
great.
Regarding leather, if some of the smooth top coating of
leather is torn away (sticky coffee mug on a rushed
morning. Sorry!!), is there a way of repairing this.
Jason
jbenderl@pwcm.com
Mike,
Regarding:
>The right side of the back of the drivers seat in my '85 6 series is
>leaning backwards.
My 5 series did the same. I took off the back of the seat. When I did,
3 loose screews fell onto the carpet. Put them back in, tightened up
others and all is well. Before spending money, take of the covers of
the seat and make sure all the screws are in.
As for new seats, there are Flo-Fit (sp?) and Recaro. Anyone have
Flo-Fit experience?
Jason.
jbenderl@pwcm.com
87 535is (65K)
Subject: Time: 9:42 PM
OFFICE MEMO Broken seat springs Date: 7/2/95
I replaced my driver's side seat pan this week end because of multiple broken
springs. As a result, I offer two things to the list:
1) I have an unused motor/cable/mechanism for the power head rest available
to whomever can use it. E-Mail me to arrange transfer.
2) For anyone interested, a rough description of the process to swap seat
pans follows. If I am just wasting bandwidth, I apologize here.
Broken Seat Springs. E28
SPECIFIC CAR: '83 528e
PROBLEM: Broken springs in the driver's seat pan.
First found a broken spring in the right rear corner, tied it back down, then
a year or so later had a broken spring in the left rear corner, tied it back
down, then last week I found a broken spring at the left front edge and
decided to stop kludging around.
DEALER SOLUTION: Replacement seat assembly or sub components. Not attempted.
Didn't even ask.
PARTS DEPARTMENT SOLUTION: It is possible to buy a replacement seat pan.
Left and right front seat pans are interchangeable. Price: $300. !!!!
That's for the spring frame only. Pad and or cover or complete seat are
extra. Not even talking labor.
MY SOLUTION: Chased down a seat from a wrecking yard. Gambled that any seat
pan from any E28 regardless of year would do (specifically, at least what I
wound up with did). Then had to locate a wrecking yard that would sell me a
single seat, most wanted to sell a pair. What I wanted was the right front
passenger seat, on the assumption that regardless of year, it would be less
worn (fewer sit on it, get up from it cycles) than the driver's side. I found
a right front seat from an '87 for $115. This did not include the seat's base
(the part that bolts directly to the floor pan that has the adjustments for
fore/aft, up/down, etc. that I didn't need any way and would have been
motorized and my '83's is manual.
Since the old seat was a black vinyl (and not in good shape plus being filthy)
and my interior is gray?or beige vinyl, I decided to strip down the
replacement seat and only use the donor seat pan spring frame assembly.
STRIP DOWN DONOR SEAT:
1) If attached, remove the base from the seat. (4 10mm bolts).
2) Remove the plastic skirt. This is fastened by two "push in plastic pins.
3) Removed plastic trim pieces over the hinge mechanisms at the junction of
the back and seat pan, left and right sides. A single Phillips head screw
secures each piece.
4) Separate seat pan from seat back. The seat pan is attached to the hinge on
each side by a 13 mm bolt at the back (this has a patch of "Locktite" on it so
it comes out somewhat stiffly), and via a circlip on a tube that goes through
the bottom(seat pan) part of each hinge. Before you can remove the circlip,
there is (at least on manual seats) a lever shaped piece that attaches to the
tube and links it to a pin that is part of the lever mechanism that you use to
adjust seat back angle. This piece is a "snap" fit into the tube, and can be
pried or knocked out with a hammer and screwdriver and minimal to modest
effort. When you get it out, notice that the shaft of this piece that goes
into the tube has two "flats" on it so that it's orientation in the tube is
"indexed" (i.e. it rotates with the tube and transmits torque). Once you have
this piece out, you can remove the circlip. It is possible by removing these
3 pieces on each side (13mm bolt, lever that fits into tube, and circlip) to
separate the seat bottom from the seat back.
Notice that when you remove the left and right levers that fit into the
protruding tubes, there is a handlebar shaped tube that goes across the bottom
of the seat pan. Note it's orientation for future reference and the fact the
inside of the ends of the tube are keyed to match the flats on the lever
pieces that go into the ends of it.
If you have trouble removing the seat pan from the seat back at this time, you
can completely remove the hinges from the seat back by remove the two very
large Phillips head screws that fasten each hinge piece to the seat back.
Once this has been done, you should be able to then remove the hinge pieces
from the seat pan.
5) Removal of fabric and padding from seat pan. The fabric is stretched
across the padding and frame and anchored in place by a series of pointed
"fingers" around the perimeter of the seat pan frame. You can either just
stretch the fabric enough to free if from these fingers, one at a time, or you
can use pliers to bend each finger about 180 degrees to release the fabric.
Once the fabric is release all around the perimeter, roll it back up (and
"inside out") until the fold is even with the edge of the top of the seat's
surface.
Before you proceed further: There are two wire stiffeners that run front to
back under the fabric. In addition, there are 3 tape tabs that anchor the
seat fabric about 2/3 of the way back from the front edge. All of these are
anchored to the horse hair seat pad with wire upholstery rings. These rings
are simply pieces of about 16 gauge steel wire that are formed/crimped into a
circular ring, about 1/4" in diameter. Probably the best tools to use on
these rings is a pair of pliers to hold the ring while you pull with needle
nose pliers.
IF at this point YOU ATTEMPT TO JUST PULL THE FABRIC OFF the seat frame, YOU
WILL RIP OUT THESE ANCHOR POINTS. If you don't want to reuse the fabric, no
problem, but when you do this to your old seat and intend to re-use the
fabric, I recommend you practice with the "donor" seat on removing the
attaching rings.
Remove the anchor rings, there are about 5 on each of the two wire stiffeners,
and one on each of the plastic tabs. This should now free the fabric from the
padding and it can be peeled off.
Inspect the original padding. At this point, it was clear that the donor
padding was in much better condition than my original padding, so I left the
padding on the donor seat frame. ( The original pad was breaking down,
evidence of this is copious amounts of green colored dust (matching the color
of the pad and the general loss of firmness and shape of the pad) If you want
to remove it, the padding is attached to the springs on the underside of the
seat pan with 3 or 4 attachment rings. Once you remove these, the padding can
be removed from the seat pan frame.
PREPARE YOU ORIGINAL SEAT: Strip your original seat the same way as the donor
seat, being careful not to damage the fabric, especially when you separate it
from the padding by cutting or bending the upholstery rings open.
REASSEMBLY: Ever heard this one before, "Reassembly is the reverse of
disassembly" Reassemble the donor seat pan, padding and fabric from you old
seat. A good replacement for upholstery clips are pieces of heavy (16 gauge)
steel wire about 5 to 6 inches long bent into the shape of a hair pin. Slide
the replacement wires through the fabric that covers the wire stiffeners and
over the stiffener wire and then down through the horsehair pad. Twist the
two ends together on the other side. Use the same technique to anchor the 3
tabs in the center rear of the seat pad. Since these wires will be longer
than necessary, find some that poke through the pad near a spring and twist it
to the spring to anchor the fabric and pad to the seat pan. Stretch the
fabric down over the sides of the seat pan and try to use the original holes
in the fabric on the anchoring fingers.
REATTACHMENT OF THE SEAT PAN TO THE HINGE/SEAT BACK. If you did not separate
the hinges from the seat back on disassembly, and you have trouble getting the
end of the tube through the matching hole so that you can re-attach the
circlip, removal of the hinge from the seat back will allow alignment.
Position the tube that goes under the seat pan in it's original orientation
across the bottom of the seat pan, and re-install the levers in the ends of
the tube ( remember that they are "keyed" so that the slot in the lever
engages the pin the seat back adjustment mechanism. If you position them
properly, a light tap with a hammer will seat them nicely. Re install the
plastic skirt on the outside bottom edge of the seat, re install the plastic
covers over the hinges on each side, bolt the seat base back on to the seat
pan, re-install the seat.
Condition the leather WEEKLY? I don't think so. I treat mine with Lexol
cleaner and conditioner once per season. Maybe Im just lazy, but I think I fed
the leather any more than that, I would slide right out of the seat.
Even if you use a seat cover, you should condition the leather to keep it from
drying out and cracking. A cover will keep them from fading but not from
drying.
Loren, 1980 528i
Dear Lou:
I am enclosing an article I wrote on the care and feeding of leather/vinyl.
One section covers the restoration of seats/dashes.
The care and feeding of the leather and the vinyl components of your
automotive interior are two very different processes. If you are using one
product on both, that is somewhat like using gasoline as a lubricant. It will
work, but not for long. I will cover the care and feeding of leather and
vinyl separately.
Leather having once been used to keep the insides of a cow from falling out
was designed to pass moisture through tiny pores. These tiny pores absorb
human perspiration and as the water evaporates, salts contained therein
remain to absorb the essential oils in the leather. This accumulation of
salts and other grunge should be cleaned from the leather about twice a year
(more often if the seats get more than their fair share of your leftover
sweat). The loss of oils within the leather is the first step to hardening,
cracking and shrinkage. Leather dashes are very prone to hardening and
shrinking. Your dash is subjected to the destructive UV rays and heat
concentrated by the windshield. The leather (or vinyl) of your dash rests
upon a metal backing that acts like a frying pan. This "frying" drives the
essential oils from the leather causing premature shrinkage, cracking and
hardening. Thus a dash should be treated more often than the seats or door
panels.
Cleaning leather may be accomplished by using a mild soap and water, or a
specifically designed leather cleaner. Of all the products I have tried, I
still like Lexol pH Cleaner. It is pH balanced, and gentle. All cleaners
will rehydrate the leftover salts and grime and wash them from the leather
fibers. Use only leather products on leather, do not use vinyl cleaners as
these products tend to be much harsher and may not be that beneficial to the
leather. Any cleaner should be rinsed thoroughly from the leather. I have
tried spraying off with a hose, but that just seemed to fill the car with
soapy water (a hole drilled in the floor was needed to drain it out - just
kidding). I went back to using a damp cloth and repeatedly wiping down the
leather. Once the leather is clean, a conditioner should be used to restore
lost oils and emollients. There are several conditioners on the market. Two
of my favorites over the years are Lexol Conditioner and Tony Nancy Leather
Conditioner. These two seem to be the most easily absorbed into the leather
fibers and tend to leave a relatively less "greasy" finish than any of the
other products I have tried. Another good product is Connoly Hide Food.
This product is made from rendered animal parts and will turn rancid in
about two years. This and the distinctive "cow" smell removes it from my top
two list (I spent too much time milking the south end of a north pointing
cow, so am not a fan of cow smells). Zymol makes a product called "Leather
Treat". It does not, in my humble opinion, do any better job than the much
less expensive Lexol or Tony Nancy products. Again, do not use a vinyl
product as a conditioner on leather and above all try to avoid silicone based
products. The silicone oil will dissolve out the leather's natural oils and
tend make the leather sticky. Silicone has a very high electrostatic
attraction, so will invite every dust particle within miles to set up camp in
your interior. Apply the conditioner to a soft cloth and work into the
leather, allow to be absorbed into the fibers and then buff off the excess.
You may condition the leather as often as you wish. The leather will tell
you if you apply too much or apply to often. The leather fibers will just
not absorb the excess.
If your leather has hardened or needs some intensive softening, there is a
really nifty product called "Surflex Leather Soffener". This product is made
from natural and synthetic oils that restore the natural softness to
neglected leather. Clean the leather and then apply a liberal coat of
Soffener. Allow to penetrate the leather for about 24 hours. Wipe off the
excess. If it needs an additional application, repeat the above. For really
bad areas, cover with plastic and allow to sit for a few days. Once the
leather is sufficiently softened, allow to "cure" for another 24 hours and
buff off any excess. You are done. I jokingly say this product will turn a
dog's rawhide chew into a kid glove. I have had some luck with leather
dashes with this method. Once the leather has softened, I have been able to
gently tuck it back under the edges of the trim and windshield clips. This
is a lot cheaper than a new dash and may be worth a try before spending a ton
of money.
If your leather or vinyl has scuff marks, scratches or areas that the surface
color had been removed, you may refinish it yourself The key is another
Suflex product. The Suflex Colorant & Finish for Flexible Surfaces may be
matched to the exact color required. Any interior leather or vinyl surface
may be refinished. It is not recommended to spot finish any area. If your
seat bolsters have belt loop scuff marks, you should refinish the entire
front of the seat. I usually do from welting to welting. This provides a
visual break that does not make the non refinished areas appear quite as
shabby. But then why not do the whole seat, dash, or door panel? Start by
cleaning the area(s) to be refinished with a suitable Organic Solvent. I
prefer Wurth Citrus Degreaser or P21S Total Auto Wash. Prior to usage, test
all solvents on an area that does not show. I use the excess on the
underside of the seat to test colorfastness of the finish. Spray the solvent
on a soft lint free cloth, and then wipe down the surface(s). Repeat after a
few minutes. Rinse with a damp cloth and allow to dry thoroughly (at least
24 hours). The manufacturer of Surflex says to strip the old finish off
using lacquer thinner, commercial paint remover or C-P Stripper. I don't,
because most interiors are not in that bad a shape and I have never found it
necessary (They also recommend lightly sanding the area prior to usage, I
don't do that either - no guts). Mix the Surflex completely and use it like
a wood stain. I use a small piece of lint free cloth and work the Surflex
into the leather or vinyl just as if I were staining wood. Once the desired
color of finish is achieved, allow to dry undisturbed for at least 24 hours.
I allow the surface to "harden off" for about 2 weeks before applying any
conditioners to leather or vinyl protectants to vinyl parts. I have not had a
lot of luck refinishing a dark leather or vinyl a lighter color. The old
color tends to show through in small "cracks" and the whole panel seems to be
"muddy". Maybe if you strip off all the old finish, it would look better.
Someday, I will get an old seat and give it a try.
The Surflex Black Colorant works great on black bumpers, black spoilers or
black rubber/vinyl trim that has been scratched or scuffed. Clean the entire
part thoroughly with Wurth Citrus Degreaser, rinse and dry thoroughly. Stain
the area with the Colorant and allow to dry. It will look like new. After
about 3 weeks hardening off, coat with a protective coating of Mequiar #42
Rubber Treatment or Black Again.
Small cuts, cracks or holes in leather may be partially repaired using
another Surflex product called Flex-Fill. This is a semi-flexible cosmetic
filling material. You use it like a spackle compound. It will take the
Surflex colorant similar to leather or vinyl. I have been able to repair
several damaged areas and hide them so they are not visible to the casual
observer. Will it make a three inch crack in your dash look like new? No,
but it may help hide it so that it isn't quite so obvious. I have found that
forcing Flex-Fill under the repaired area and forming an inverted T patch
works best. Once the patch is dry, sand lightly to blend in with the leather
or vinyl. Clean the area thoroughly and refinish with the Surflex Colorant.
This is a learned skill, so you should practice on a test piece of leather
or vinyl. Perfect your techniques before you tackle your expensive interior.
Vinyl is the carefully prepared hydes of virgin pampered Arctic Naugas. Many
Naugas must die to furnish enough material for just one interior panel.
The dash, door panels, seat backs, and numerous other
interior/exterior trim pieces are usually vinyl. Vinyl may be viewed as raw
semi-liquid vinyls that are held in place by a solid vinyl "skin" (this
description is for illustration only and not a PhD chemical dissertation ).
The dash and other vinyl parts of your car are constantly bombarded by UV
that breaks down the molecules of the skin, allowing the raw vinyls to escape
(off-gassing). These free vinyls then may deposit themselves on the glass,
forming a haze that is difficult to remove. If you have such a haze, it is
probably your dash that has decided to pick up stakes and migrate. Silicone
based vinyl dressing products do not usually contain UV protectants,
and the silicone may act as a magnifying glass, intensifying the UV
degradation. Silicone oil may also dissolve the essential oils in the vinyl
skin, hastening the premature formation of cracks in the vinyl skin. A
quality vinyl protectant will contain a UV protectant and essential oils to
replace lost oils from the vinyl. These protectants are expensive, so the
K-Mart specials may do more harm than good. Silicone also has very strong
electrostatic attraction which may be considered beneficial in that it will
tend to stay where it is placed, but will also attract every dust particle in
the surrounding three counties.
Any vinyl protectant should be applied to a soft cloth and worked into the
surface. After a few moments of allowing it to work into the surface, buff
off the excess. The dash should be treated more often than any other area,
as it is subject to the most severe attack by UV and heat
.
My personal favorite vinyl protectant is Lexol Vinyex Spray. This in my
humble opinion has it all. A very strong UV protectant, essential oils,
anti-static (helps keep dust off) and a soft patina finish. Harly Polyguard
- - This used to be my favorite, till I lost my heart to Vinylex. Leaves a
touch more shine to the finish than Vinylex. Somethin' Else - This is the
sister to Black Again. Has all the right ingredients and people who love it
are died in the wool. I prefer the Vinylex, but that only a subjective
opinion. It leaves a "new car" smell. I think that is why it is not my
favorite. I am not a fan of artificial smells. Harly Interior Magic - An
old standby that leaves a lemon scent. Some people love it. I don't think a
car should smell like lemons, but that's my opinion and I could be wrong.
Zymol Vinyl - Another tropical oil product. Leaves a pina colada smell.
Diehards will defend this product to the death. I just think it is to much
$. Meguiar #40 - A great product that cleans and protects. Does not leave a
slippery finish. Meguiar #39 - A very strong cleaner. This should be used
carefully and very infrequently. It will clean just about anything out of
vinyl. Must be followed by #40 or other vinyl protectant. A great cleaner
for plastic Targa tops. Tony Nancy Rubber/Vinyl Cleaner- I don't recommend
use on the inside. The smell is a bit much for me (reminds me of dead rats).
Some people do and swear by it. Sonax Cockpit Spray - This is a German
product that is designed for German vinyl. Does a great job, but leaves a
little more shine to the surface than I care for. There are a gaggle of
users who love it. Wurth Cockpit Spray - ditto above. Wurth people don't
like Sonax and vice versa. Formula 303 - This leaves an Armour All type of
high gloss shine to the vinyl. I personally don't like this type of finish.
Some people do, so feel comfortable using it. All of the above products are
not based upon silicone.
I hope that the above has shed some light on the subject leather and vinyl
care. If there are any questions, please do not hesitate to call or write.
If you can't find the products locally, I stock all of them except the
Formula 303 and would be glad to send a product description/price package by
mail.
Thank you,
Larry Reynolds
Car Care Specialties, Inc.
Distributors of Quality Car Care Products
Post Office Box 535
Saddle Brook, NJ 07663-0535
Phone (201) 796-8300
Fax (201) 791-9743
E-mail carcaresp@aol.com