FOOTSTEPS ROCKS ROUTE GUIDE
© 2001 Paul Humphrey
Footsteps is the northern most climbing area on the California cost
of any importance. It is also one of the most beautiful places I have
climbed. The twin sea stacks that give the place its name lie at the end
of a small headland that stretches out towards the Pacific. It almost
feels like an island when you’re there. Although easily spotted from
Hwy 101, it is not a frequently visited place. Seals, otters, sea lions,
whales and sea birds of all kinds can be observed from the rocks, making
it a great area for the nature loving climber. The trail is often overgrown
in the spring, when the plant life along it explodes into a 6+ foot high
jungle of grasses, nettles and other varieties. In recent years the CCC
seems to have taken an interest in clearing the trail once or twice a
year. Thank them if you see them.
Directions:
From Arcata, drive north on Hwy 101 past Orick and Klamath. You know your
getting close when you pass Trees Of Mystery, a roadside attraction with
gigantic statues of Paul Bunyan & his blue ox Babe. The ocean soon
appears as you round a point to the north. Footsteps is the twin stacks
in the distance on the headland. A closer large formation is Promontory,
which also has good climbing. Cross Wilson Creek and motor uphill. Look
for an interpretive pullout on the west side of the road (near mile marker
M.13.44). Park there. Allow one to one & a half hours for the drive.
Walk north on the west side of the freeway, passing a dead end pullout/road.
Past that, look for a feint trail cutting off towards the rocks. The Park
Service tries to sign the trailhead, but the sign is often missing or
overgrown. The rocks are at the end of this trail, 1/2 mile away.East
Face of South Rock
East face of South Rock
This wall is the large face of the tallest sea stack, with a dramatic
roof half way up it. You can see it from the trail on the way in. Stop
on the trail when you are nearly parallel to the North Rock. Look for
a feint climber / fisher trail cutting down to the left. Follow this past
the “Whaling Wall” to the base of the South Rock. The routes
are located near the lower right side of the face.
1. UNDERTOE, 5.11? (120 ft.) The first pitch of what may one day
be a complete girdle of the South Rock. Begin with the first three bolts
of “Swallow the Sea” then head left out to sea. Plug in numerous
1/2” Removable Bolts on the way to the ocean arête. This route
is wild! On a high surf day walls of water sweep up the face of the rock
across the channel, sometimes appearing higher than the route, only to
crash down beside you. Trail a second rope to Tyrolian Traverse back to
land or reverse the pitch. FA: Paul Humphrey. FFA: (project).
2. SWALLOW THE SEA, 5.12b. (70 ft) Scramble cautiously down to
the edge of the large boulder that leans against the right flank of the
East Face. Clip the 1st bolt, then step left into the air. After a three
bolt traverse curve upward through a groove of crazy pockets. This one
ain’t over until the anchors, with several tough spots along the
way. 9 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997.
3. SPRINKLING POCKETS, 5.12b. (60 ft) This is the bolted line just
left of “Osteoporosis” Straightforward pocket and edge pulling,
with an emphasis on power-endurance. Not much resting on this one. My
arms always seem to be on fire by the time I (hopefully) reach the anchors.
Great route. 8 bolts. FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997.
4. OSTEOPOROSIS (A.K.A Caught in Annette), 5.11 b/c. (60 ft.) This
route pulls straight up the odd looking backbone of rock left of “Porifera”.
The holds are usually huge, but the overhang is sure to pump you. At the
top of the spine continue up the left edge of the hollow to a shared anchor
with “Porifera”. 8 bolts. FA (TR): Mathias Holladay, 1991. FFA
(lead): Eric Chemello & Paul Humphrey, summer 1996.
5. PORIFERA (A.K.A. Holladay / Ludwig Route), 5.10. (5.9 if you exit
at 6th bolt.) (60 ft.) A jungle gym of buckets, the grade comes from
hanging on as the angle kicks over your head near the finish. Can you
find the no-hands rest? This well protected lead is a heck of a lot of
fun, and a good climb for those just starting to lead 5.10. 6 bolts. FA
(TR): Mathias Holladay & Richard Ludwig, 1991. FFA (lead): Paul Humphrey
& Eric Chemello, summer 1996.
6. HAMMERTOES (A.K.A. Eagle’s Nest), A1+ or 5.9R. (45 ft.)
This one begins at the far right arête. A few knifeblades will get
you up the line. Not particularly long or difficult, the view from the
top is better than the climb. FA: Mathias Holladay & Richard Ludwig,
1991.North Face of South Rock
7. TOE HOLD, 5.9. This is the only route that tops out on the South
Rock, and the first ascentionists were likely the first ever to summit.
Put up on lead carrying a 12-pound drill, gear, bolts & other crap.
Begin with route #11, “Loner”. Next rappel or down climb from
the top of the Center Rock into the notch between that rock and South
Rock. The slab now looms above you. Gingerly climb onto the face of South
Rock (finally) and begin wandering up the path of least resistance, clipping
a number of bolts along the way. Most who try this one get gripped and
find themselves choosing between slick slab moves or clawing at vegetation.
The top is quite rewarding. 7 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey & Hiko Ito,
January 1997.
8. TOO EASY FOR THE NEIGHBORHOOD, 5.8. Nobody does this one. It
starts through the cave formed between the South & Center Rocks. Belay
from a single bolt (hanger missing). Traverse right across a gigantic
chock stone to reach a horizontal crack. Place large cams as you continue
right and around the corner of the stack. Belay at a station where the
rock takes a turn for the worse. Reverse the pitch to escape. FFA: Paul
Humphrey & Jeff Hollenbeck, 1995.
East Face of Center Rock
This rock is tiny compared to the larger stacks on either side of it.
Never the less, it offers some good climbing. Scramble up the talus field
between the South & North Rocks to the base of the wall.
9. DRILLING ME SOFTLY, 5.11a. (60 ft.) Start with an eight foot
long finger crack near the left side of the face. Run-out the easy slab
above to the crux overhang. Some strenuous pulls yield to easier pocket
pulling and rock-ons until the top out bulge. Look for the anchor way
up on top, taking care not to dislodge any loose rock. 6 bolts & a
#3 TCU. FFA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello, Jeff Hollenbeck & Dave
Manheimer, summer 1996.
10. BOLT 45, 5.10d. (60 ft.) Smear with conviction to the first
bolt, a good twenty feet above your head. Pull the overhang using a slightly
easier sequence than the previous route. Follow pockets and edges to the
top. This climb is far more fun than it looks. 5 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey,
Eric Chemello, Jeff Hollenbeck & Dave Manheimer, summer 1996.
West Face of Center Rock
This broken face overlooks the Pacific. Lack of a secure walk up limits
its popularity.
11. LONER, 5.2X. The easiest way to the top of Center Rock if want
to top rope it. Just DON’T FALL! Scramble up the talus field, continuing
around the left side to the saddle. “Loner“ solos the black
low angle flank of Center Rock from this saddle up to the anchors.
12. HELLRAISER, 5.12TR. (35 ft.) The arête this route follows
is short and steep, with little pockets along the way. It is best to check
it out from the base of the tunnel that leads to the routes on the South
Face of the North Rock. You’ll find it just right of where you emerge
from the tunnel. Top rope off cams & other gear. FA: Mark “Petch”
Petrolungo, 1991.
13. AQUWARD, 5.10TR. Climb the face right of “Hellraiser”.
FA: Eric Chemello, 1991.
14. SOLE FUSION, 5.9 / .11aTR. (60-80 ft.) Set a top rope off the
anchors on top of Center Rock. Nice friction climbing up a dark slab.
The split grade reflects two possible starts. The easier begins at a ledge
part way up you can walk over to. For the hard stuff start all the way
down near the sea. FA: Dave Manheimer & Eric Chemello, 1996.
15. EBBTIDE, 5.11TR. Right of Center Rock proper you may notice
a lone bolt on a face. This route is rarely, if ever, attempted. FA: Mathias
Holladay & Richard Ludwig, 1991. South Face of North Rock
Site of the earliest known routes at Footsteps, this wall is not to be
missed. It sports unusually good rock, with less of a sandy texture than
elsewhere. Drop down and left from the saddle between the Center &
North Rocks. Look for the entrance to a tunnel made from fallen boulders
to the right after scrambling down to a small ledge. Duck into the tunnel
and scurry down to the base of the South Face.
16. THE INCESSANT WELTERING SPLASH, 5.9. (80 ft.) Located at the
far left arete, this line starts with a thin crack, and then romps up
sandy rock to an anchor at the lip. Seldom done, primarily because of
the Cormorants who have taken up residence in a hueco near the last bolt.
Get too close and they will hurl fish at you! Not worth the stench. 6(?)
bolts and small nuts. FFA: Mathias Holladay & Richard Ludwig, 1991.
17. LAND SHARK, 5.10d. (80 ft.) This is a harder direct start to
“Wine Dark Sea”. Join that route at the 4th bolt and continue
to the anchors. 7bolts. FFA (lead): Eric Chemello, 1997.
18. WINE DARK SEA, 5.10c. (80 ft.) Rope-drag mars this otherwise
enjoyable route. Step off a large block onto the face. At the third bolt,
move left, merging with “Land Shark” at that route’s 4th
bolt. Undulate up from there. Pray for no rope-drag and hand traverse
right ten feet to an anchor. Bring some long runners to kill the drag.
8 bolts. FFA: Mathias Holladay, Richard Ludwig & others, 1991.19.
TSUNAMI, 5.11c/d. (80 ft.) This more direct route shares the same start
with “Wine Dark Sea”. Instead of cutting left after the first
overhang, though, this one shoots straight up. Thoughtful pocket mixed
with bizarre jugs will keep you entertained. Save some power for the crux,
though. It lurks near the top. 8 bolts. FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997.
20. THE RADICAL MOUSE MOVEMENT (A.K.A. Cutlass Supreme), 5.11b. (80
ft.) This is a fine example of sea cliff sport climbing. Adequate
protection coupled with Footsteps interesting variety of holds will leave
you smiling, especially if you take the time at the rests to turn and
check out the view. Don’t get pumped before the unavoidable high
crux. 7 or 8 bolts. FA (TR): Mathias Holladay, Richard Ludwig & others,
1991. FFA (lead): Paul Humphrey, 1997.
21. OCEAN SPRAY, 5.9+. (50 ft.) Just right of the main face is
a shorter satellite rock. The left arête sports an aging route.
Stick clip the first bolt or do not fall, since the crux is a boulder
problem straight off the deck with a bad landing. After that the route
is cake, ending at an anchor on top. 4 bolts. FFA: ?, 1991.
22. PLAY MISTY FOR ME, 5.9. (50 ft.) Look for this route several
feet right of the previous route. It is protected by Removable Bolts,
so look for the symmetrical 1/2” holes drilled for the pro. Search
for the placements as you follow pockets and edges up the steep slab with
beautiful ocean views. Cruiser moves at the edge of the continent. Five
1/2” Removable Bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1998.
23. FAIR GAME, 5.10b. (50 ft.) This direct start to “Play
Misty” begins right of the previous route, joining it at the 3rd
hole. Five 1/2” Removable Bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1998.
24. ROGUE WAVE (hangers stolen), Rating Unknown. Obviously, since
the hangers are missing, this route sits idle. It follows the seam located
above the satalite rock routes #21-#23 utilize. FA: Mathias Holliday &
Richard Ludwig.East Face of North Rock
East face of North Rock --Whaling Wall
Also known as the Whaling Wall, these are the first routes you will encounter
once you leave the hiking trail from the road & cut down the climber
/ fisher trail. Look for a blunt arête right of a small cave around
halfway dawn the trail. Take care not to damage vegetation or cause erosion.
25. ABANDONED PROJECT.
26. POISON OAK, 5.11b/c. (60 ft.) A slightly harder finish to “Whale’s
Brow”. The name refers to the poison oak that grows at Footsteps,
which is usually quite avoidable. The first ascentionist seems to get
the stuff if he’s within sight of the plant, though. Head up and
left at the 5th bolt of “Whale’s Brow”; clipping two more
bolts on the way to the anchors. 7 bolts. FFA: Hiko Ito, 1998.
27. WHALE’S BROW, 5.11b. (60 ft.) You might be surprised by
a few of the moves on this blunt arête. I sure was when I flew off
on my first go at it. Take care on the slope below the route when approaching
this climb so as not to trample plants. Don’t tear straight up through
the vegetation. 6 bolts. FFA: Tom Ogden, 1998.
28. LURCH, 5.11cTR. (60 ft.) If you still can’t get enough
of the “Whaling Wall” after climbing routes #26 & #27 throw
a top rope on this one. Clip the bolt off right as a directional while
setting it up. FA: Eric Chemello, 1998.North West Face of North Rock
North face of North Rock
29. NOTHWEST ARETE, TR. The skyline arête of this face is one
of the longest here. Unfortunately, as the pair who top-roped it found
out, it is pretty rotten in places. Because of this and the difficulty
of even getting to and finding the top anchors this one will likely remain
undone. FA: Cedar Wright & Paul Humphrey, 1997.North Slab, A.K.A.
The Shark Fin
You can see the top of the fin as you approach Footsteps on the trail
from the road. Simply continue on this trail until you reach the base
to the following routes.
30. SO LO, 5.3X. Holds will break, flex and otherwise freak you
out if you decide to scramble up the backside of North Slab. Why bother?
FA: unknown.
31. THE PELICAN’S BVD’s, 5.11b. (60 ft.) One of the classic
costal climbs around here. Good rock, with the bolts spaced far enough
apart to get your heart thumping. There’s even a bit of route finding
(!). Start at the left most bolt line with the fin overhanging above.
Stick clip for safety or just take off, unlocking delicate sequences on
the way to the little roof. Resist the urge to climb the left side of
the fin. Instead, swing around the bulge to the right side and clip one
more bolt on the way to the anchors. 6 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997.
32. TIPPY TOES, 5.10b. (50 ft.) This is the next line right of
“Pelican”. Interesting slab moves are a crowd pleaser on this
one. Smear and toe your way up and slightly right to a shared anchor with
route #33. 6 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello & others, 1996.
33. TAP DANCE, 5.10a. (50 ft.) A slightly easier route than #32.
Pad up the black slab moving left at the top to the anchor shared with
“Tippy Toes”. 6 bolts. FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey &
others.
34. SALSA PANTS, 5.9 (50 ft.) This recent addition to the area
offers the easiest climbing on the North Slab. 5 bolts. FFA: Rick &
Helen Shull, Fall 2001.