3. FOWL
Goslings.
[71] Cut the throat of a gosling or goose, pluck it well and scald it; cut off the feet, take out the innards and wash it well: then take verjuice, garlic; and if you cannot get these things, take savory herbs, soaked in vinegar, and sew up the bottom, and put it on a spit, and roast it; and if it is not fat, put lard inside it. And put a bit of water in a pan, and take the fat that comes from there. And when it is cooked enough, take it from the fire, and serve it with the juice of an orange or lemon or bitter orange: and if you want, you can make a pepper sauce with toasted crustless bread, and with the liver roasted and ground with said bread: and dilute all these things with vinegar, and boil it and add pepper, saffron, cloves and other good spices. From the head, feet, innards, and liver, you can make a verjuice sauce, adding beaten eggs, saffron, spices; and serve it.
[72] Another preparation. Put a bit of water in a pan, and take the fat rendered by the gosling or goose; and add citron juice and sugar, so that it is bittersweet; add saffron, and fry it in a pan; then toast some white bread, soaked in beaten egg yolks and put it in the aforementioned sauce, and put them in trenchers one on top of the other.
Crane.
[73] Crane well cleaned, and boiled a bit in a large cauldron, put it on the spit, and roast it, but not stuffed however; then have an onion cut like dice, and fried well in enough lard, and colored with saffron. And have sliced of bread somewhat toasted, and some good wine, cooked and mixed with the aforementioned onion: boil said crane cut in pieces with said things in the wine in a boil. And in the lean broth of said sauce soften the aforementioned bread: on a large trencher, arrange sauce, spices and meat in order by degrees, as is appropriate, and at the end of cooking add some of the fat from said sauce. Likewise this can be done with a mutton or veal head, well skinned, in boiling water; but then don't boil it too much. And let it be done in order, as said above, cheese must be put on top, and then eat it.
Saracen broth.
[74] Take roasted capons, and their livers with spices, and toasted bread; grind it in a mortar; and dilute it in the mortar with white wine and verjuice, and then cut said capons into pieces, and boil them in a pot with the aforementioned things, and put in dates, currants, prunes, whole peeled almonds, and enough lard; and serve. Likewise this can be done with saltwater fish; then put apples and pears in said broth.
Capon broth.
[75] Take capons, and boil them; and when they are cooked with the spices you want, cut them apart into a bowl with eggs and their broth, and add flour with a slotted spoon over said cut-up capons; and put all of this in the broth, and boil it a little; and this is called chickened broth.
[76] Another preparation in the Provençal style. Take livers, stomachs and innards of capons well cleaned and well sliced; and put then in a pot with a little water, and cook them with spices and beaten eggs, and color them as you like. And then fry the aforementioned things, and put in sour and sweet juices. You can do the same with the heads and feet of capons, or similar birds.
[77] Another preparation in the Spanish style to make green broth. Take birds, and little pieces of fried liver, or meat, as much as you like; boil them well with good spices and pounded green herbs; and then, add beaten eggs, and put them in said broth of the said meat, and let them boil. The broth should not be thick.
Partridges.
[78] Take boiled partridges and cut-up chickens with savory herbs, salt, and good spices ground in a mortar; and fry said meat with lard, set it to cook in a pot with a little water, and put almond milk in it; and at the end of its cooking time, add coriander: dilute with its broth, and make a granulated broth, if you like. In a similar way you can make peacocks, pheasants, young chickens, and little birds.
4. Stuffed PASTA and ORGANS
Gratonia.
[79] Take sheep's milk, and dilute it thoroughly with eggs, and put some lard in a pan, near the fire, so that it gets very hot: and take a slotted spoon, and drizzle the milk onto the spoon inside the pan, and cook it completely. And, having taken it off the fire, add sugar, and eat. Item in said broth, add solid egg whites, cut like dice; and this is called Spanish gratonia: and you can color this as you like.
Crispelles, or rather ubaldine fritters.
[80] Take clean, white flour, and dilute it with eggs and let it rest a bit: add saffron, and then set it to cook in melted lard: then put sugar or honey on it, and eat.
[81] Another preparation. Take white flour with a bit of yeast: dilute it with hot water, and let it rise, that is ferment: then, take pike eggs, or eggs of trout or cabot3 or another kind of fish, mix them well with said dough; and, adding saffron to it, cook it as described above.
3 The fish is called corvalo. Closest, in Florio: "Corvo, any kind of raven or Crow. Also a fish called a Cabot or searaven."
[82] Another preparation. Likewise you can make it with minced onions, with calamint [nepitella, which a modern Italian dictionary gives as Satureia calamintha) and herbs; fry it with oil [here aglio ("garlic") seems to be a misprint for oglio] or lard: then take flour, and dilute everything together with egg whites, and put elderflowers and other flowers in it, as you like; and vary the colors as you please, and put it them in boiling lard with a spoon a few at a time.
"Gloves,"4 that is ravioli.
[83] Take white chickpeas, well softened in water; boil them well, then take them out of the water, minced finely and mix them with said water, and strain them; and with this strained water dilute the flour as you like and fry it on a low fire with lard and oil, and put some honey on top.
4 Florio: Guanti, all manner of gloves. Also a kind of paste-meat fashioned as hands.
[84] Another preparation. Dilute the flour with eggs, then make some gloves or other shape, as you like: set them to cook well in a pan with hot lard or oil.
Sausages, or fish dumplings [tortelli] if you prefer.
[85] Put the fish in boiling water, until the bones can easily be removed, and take scented herbs, and mince them well with the meat of said fish, and spices; then put everything in a very large and porous linen cloth, and press it well: then put them in the pan with hot oil, and make them lengthwise or crosswise, as if pleases you.
Meat croquettes, or rather dumplings and ravioli.
[86] Take skinned pork belly, boiled, and mince it thoroughly with a knife: take a good quantity of savory herbs, and pound them thoroughly in a mortar: put some fresh cheese on top of this and a bit of four, and dilute it with egg whites, until it is stiff. And take a good quantity fresh pork fat, put it in a pan, until it boils, and make croquettes out of this; and once it has been cooked and taken out, put sugar on it.
[87] Another preparation. Take fresh cheese, minced thoroughly: add a bit of flour, and dilute it with egg whites, so that it becomes thick; and set it to cook with lard, as described above; and put sugar on it, as with the other things that have been described.
Gualdaffe of stomach and hot meat dishes [caldume].
[88] Take a veal stomach, and wash it well with cold or hot water, scraping it and cleaning it to make it as clean as you can: then put said stomach in a pan on the fire without liquid, and turn it and keep turning it often, so that it can be well cleaned and scraped: then wash it again with water, as before: then let it boil a little in water and cook it, putting in whole mint leaves and salt: then fry it in the pan with lard, as you like, and take its broth, which is called gualdaffa.
[89] Another preparation, with intestine. Take the intestine of a young calf: clean it well, and fill it with the cooked gualdaffa described earlier, sliced small, mixed with beaten eggs and grated cheese, spices and salt: and when this is done, set it to boil: and then set it to roast; and serve it. You can also put this gualdaffe in broth or in a pastry. And you can make gualdaffe from other animals.
[90] Another preparation. Take cleaned intestine, washed and scraped in cold and hot water; and salt it; then wash it again with water. Take beaten eggs, grated cheese, saffron, spices and savory herbs minced and ground in a mortar; and put them in a platter or bowl, and mix together; and fill it, and set it to boil until it is well cooked. And when this is done, put it on a spit, or on the grill; and serve it.
Said gualdaffe and hot meat dishes.
[91] From said beef gualdaffe and intestines, raw, you can make a broth, if you clean them well; slice said intestines and fry them in lard with thinly sliced onion: set them to boil, and add egg yolks with crustless bread, spices, herbs; and make a granulated broth, if you like, and color it as you like. And this broth is called a hot meat dish.
Viscera and stomach of pork in a hot meat dish.
[92] The viscera and stomach of pork can be prepared likewise; and wash it well; and, sliced thinly, fry it in lard and with onions etc., as described above.
5. SAUCES
(Cinnamon sauce [cenamata])
[93] Take cinnamon, ginger and toasted bread (the crust), and salt, and pound them well in a mortar; then dilute with good wine, and strain it a bit, and boil it a little. Such a sauce is called cinnamon sauce [cenamata] and is appropriate for all roasted goat and hare. Note that goat can be roasted with bones or without bones. Likewise hare and other meats, that is doe, stag and the like, and for which said sauce is appropriate, and citron juice with spices, if you like.
Pepper sauce [peverada].
[94] Take toasted bread, a bit of saffron that doesnít change the color, spices and chopped liver pounded in a mortar, and dilute it with vinegar or wine and the broth described above, and make it sweet or sour, as you like. And such a pepper sauce can be made with domestic meats, game, and fish.
6. CIVERO of Hare and other Meats
Civero of hare and other meats [cf. French civet].
[95] Cut apart a whole hare, and, when it has been washed a little, cook it in water; then take the cooked liver and heart, grind them well in a mortar, and when said hare is cooked, take spices, pepper and onions, and fry them in lard with said heart and toasted bread: and when all these things have boiled together, put it on the table. Note that you must mince and grind the cooked heart and liver in a mortar with spices and toasted bread, and dilute it with good wine and a bit of vinegar. And then it has been cooked and the hare fried with onion, pour said sauce over the hare, and let it cool to room temperature, and serve. And you can do the same with pernici, that is partridges.
[96] Another preparation. Take cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, Indian nut [noci d'India], fowl livers, egg yolks, and little birds, whole or in pieces, and fry them in lard: then cook them in said broth, and cook as described above.
[Translator's Note: At this time, it is not certain what is meant by "Indian nut". In the 16th century "Indian nut" meant "coconut", but this seems unlikely in the late 14th century.]
7. CHICKEN
Chicken or fowl in sumac sauce [Sommacchia].
[97] Take a chicken cut into pieces and fry it in lard; and take almonds and sumac with water and cook them with the chicken, and let it thicken, and serve it. You can do the same with pieces of fish: likewise with chicken, capons, partridges, or little birds, and capon innards. You can put starch in such a dish; and it is very helpful for the flow of the stomach. Likewise you can make it with chopped pieces of fish, using oil instead of lard.
Chicken in lemon sauce [Limonia].
[98] Fry chickens with lard and onions, and grind some unrefined starch [amido non mondo] and dilute it with pork broth, and strain it, and cook it with said chickens and spices. And if you do not have starch [amido], thicken the broth with egg yolks; and when it is near the time to serve it, put in lemon juice, bitter orange or citron juice.
[Translator's Note: This phrase, amido non mond(at)o (literally, starch that is "unpeeled" or "unclean"), appears in a couple of recipes in this collection. Several interpretations and explanations have been suggested; the one I find most appealing is that the starch is still in lump form (a late step in its processing) and needs to be cleaned of impurities and then ground into a finer powder.]
Gratomea of chicken, fowl, and fish.
[99] Boil the chickens, take the livers, starch, spices and egg yolks, and dilute them with said broth, and make it thick: and when it is well cooked, put finely ground sugar on top, and put it on the table. You can do the same with capons, partridges, and color and season it as described. You can do the same with fish, using oil instead of lard.
Pomegranate Chicken. [Romania].
[100] Fry the chickens with lard and onions, and grind unrefined starch [amido non mondato] in a mortar, and dilute it with strong or sweet pomegranate juice: press and strain them well, and put it with the chicken, and boil it a little, and stir it with a spoon, or beat it, and add spices. And if you do not have pomegranate, you can make this with herb broth.
White garlic sauce with capons.
[101] Take capons boiled well, and with the broth dilute spices, garlic and almonds, and boil it enough until it thickens. This is called white garlic sauce; if you color it any other way, it loses its name. You can make this with roasted and larded capons.
Blancmange.
[102] Take chicken breast, cooked; and having placed it on a board shred it as finely as you can. Meanwhile wash the rice and dry it, and make flour out of it, and sift it with a sieve or strainer; then dilute said rice flour with goat's milk or almond milk; and set it to boil in a pot washed and cleaned well; and which it begins to boil add said shredded chicken breast, with white sugar and fried white lard; and keep it away from smoke, and let it boil moderately without blocking the fire, until it becomes thick, as rice usually is. And when you are ready to serve it, put ground sugar on top of it, and fried lard. If you like, you can make it with whole-grain rice, prepared and arranged with goat's milk, in the transalpine manner; and when you serve it, add almonds fried in lard, and sliced white ginger.
[103] Another preparation during Lent. Take cleaned almonds dried with a towel; and grind them as thoroughly as you can, not adding water: then with a linen cloth press them as much as you can, and put the oil that comes out in a jar: then take the shells, or rather the remaining nut pieces, and dilute them with cold water, and strain them with a strainer or sieve; and with this milk dilute the flour made from rice grains, as described above, and set it to boil as is described above: and add sugar with fish, meat of pike, frog, or other fish that has white flesh, shredded like the chicken breast; and when you are about to serve it, put sugar and almonds on it, and eat. You can also make this with the white part of leeks, boiled in water: shred them and dilute them with the aforementioned flour, as above.
[104] Another preparation with rice. Take rice and wash it thoroughly; and once washed, boil it: take it out and put it on a trencher to cool; then put it back to cook, and put sheep's milk on it and boil it completely; and while it boils put in pieces of chicken, and put fresh fried lard and sugar on top. And when you are ready to serve it, put sugar and enough spices on it, with fried lard.
Festiggia.
[105] Take whole fried chickens, fried in lard; then set them to cook in water with sugar and ginger; and make it thick.
8. STUFFED MEATS
To stuff a peacock.
[106] Skin the peacock, keeping the head with its feathers: then take pork meat that's not too fatty, and also the ground meat of said peacock or another one, and mince and grind them together. Also grind spices, cinnamon and nutmeg, whatever you want; once these have been well ground and beaten with egg whites, mix them together, and beat said spices and meat together thoroughly, and keep the yolk on its own. The stuff said peacock with said minced and ground meat and the aforementioned spices: and wrap said peacock in pork caul fat, and close it with a wooden pick: and thus put it in a cauldron in lukewarm water, and boil it gently. And when it has been boiled solid [i.e., the mincemeat stuffing is fully cooked], roast it on a spit or on the grill, and color it with beaten egg yolks, which you have kept aside; and don't take all of them, but make apples out of the rest of them, as follows, that is: take raw pork loin and mince it very finely with a knife and chop it thoroughly; then mix said meat with said reserved egg yolks and aforementioned spices, and make it so thick that you can make little apples in the palms of your hands; and roll then in egg yolks and color them and set them to boil in boiling water. Once they have boiled a little you can roast them and color them slightly with egg yolks, using feathers. Some of these apples you can put inside the peacock, and on the outside, under said caul fat. And once this is done, re-clothe the peacock in its coat, skin and feathers reserved, and carry it to the table; and, with the coat taken off, serve it.
To stuff a hen.
[107] When the chicken has been plucked, skin it raw; and from its meat and from boneless pork meat, well chopped, and spices and eggs and clear lard, that is clarified, mixed together, stuff the skin of said hen; and let it be placed in a cauldron of boiling water; then roast it on a spit; and watch out that it doesn't burst. And in this way you can prepare other birds.
[108] Another preparation. Skin the hen, as said, whose meat is cooked with spices. Then take an earthenware pot, made in the form of a cardafisia, that is of an inguastara or flask; put said skin in the water in said pot, keeping the neck of said skin our of the pot; then stuff said skin with said stuffing; then tie said neck closed and put in a little water, and set it to cook. And when it is cooked, break the pot and serve it.
To stuff a calf.
[109] Take a young calf, skinned or rather peeled: roast it and stuff it, as you like: then take goslings, hens and capons and the stuffing described above, and other good things: but add a lot of chopped lard, in the belly; then take the fat that was rendered during roasting and put it in a pepper sauce with toasted bread and saffron; and when it is boiled a bit keep the pepper sauce on its own; and serve it.
To stuff a mutton.
[110] Take a whole mutton, shorn, and you can prepare it like the first method for a hen described above; and for its stuffing you can use hens, partridges boiled whole or in pieces, and all good things you want; and keep it from bursting. Likewise you can prepare a skinned kid.
To stuff a shoulder, or other limb.
[111] Take a shoulder of mutton and lift the meat off the bone, and take pork belly, and mince and chop it all together with a knife on a board. And take a good quantity of savory herbs, pounded, with spices and saffron, and mix it with said meat and pork belly: add fresh cheese, well beaten with eggs, a good amount; and dilute it so that it is neither too stiff nor too soft: then take the caul fat of pork or mutton and spread it over the board, and take half of the said meat and spread it on top of said caul fat: then take the shoulder bone and place it on said meat: and then take the other half of the meat and place it on top of said bone on the other side, so that the bone is in the middle, and cover all of it with the caul fat. The place it on an iron grill, and roast it enough, and serve it. You can do the same with other limbs.
To stuff a stomach.
[112] Take stomach of pork or mutton well washed and clean; then take their fat and meat, partially cooked; mix this with spices and eggs, and stuff said stomach with the aforementioned mixture and set it to cook in water and close the hole, and pierce it with a needle while it is cooking. Or you can cook it on the grill instead, and color and season it as you like. Also it can be stuffed with good pork belly, with whole ravioli. Likewise you can stuff birds if you like.
To stuff intestines.
[113] Pork or veal intestines can be stuffed with pork fat and other meats, with spices and savory herbs, and make it like the stomach described above, tying it and piercing it; and eat it.
9. PASTRIES
Sops.
[114] Take round slices of bread, like trenchers; fry them in a pan with fresh lard and sprinkle good spices on it, and take toasted bread and dilute it with fat rendered from a peacock or other bird, and pour it over the bread fried in the pan; and sprinkle sugar or sour juice over this; and eat it.
[115] Another preparation. Take round slices of bread, as described above, and soak them in beaten egg yolks and fry them in a pan: then put them on a trencher one on top of the other; and, if you want, you can put sugar or spices on them, and serve it to your Lord with peacock or with other birds.
Roman pastry.
[116] Take a chicken cut into pieces, spices and saffron and savory herbs: mix them together and fry them a bit: then add beaten eggs and a good amount of verjuice; and meanwhile make the crust; then assemble the pastry, making two or three "soles" [solare = bottom crust] and putting spices on each: on top of this put lard and cover the pastry and make a hole in the middle [of the top crust]: on top of this shape birds or whatever other animals you like out of dough; and put lard on them, cook them in the oven, and serve. You can do the same with minced meat and fresh cheese.
Kid pastry.
[117] Take goat's meat well cut up and sliced sepis [unknown, a misprint perhaps?] and fry it in lard; also take a good quantity of savory herbs and saffron, and beat them well, and with this fresh cheese well minced, and mix it with said meat, and put it in a pan over the coals, so that it is somewhat thickened, and make a very thin dough in a tart-pan, and put fried lard between the pan and the dough. Also take enough pepper and meat with the aforementioned eggs, and put them in a pan and make another dough, and put it on top, and put coals above and below.
[118] Another preparation. Take minced goat's meat or small chickens cut into pieces, and fry them with fresh lard and minces onions, and savory herbs minced with saffron and egg yolks, and dilute it thoroughly and mix it with eggs, and put all of it in a pan on the coals, and turn it often until it is set: add enough spices; color it with egg yolks and make the dough and enclose all of it: cook it and eat it.
Pastry of live birds.
[119] Make a pastry and fill it with bran [semola], and cook it in the oven; and when it is cooked, pour out the bran through a hole on the bottom or on the side, and enclose within it various live birds, whatever you like: and make a little window in the pastry, like a window in a cage; and when this is done make it seem like it is placed in a tree.
[120] Another preparation for a good pastry. If you want to make a pastry of wild game, roast and lard the meat as you like; soak it in wine with a great abundance of spices.
[121] Another preparation. You can make a pie from beef, mutton and pork, sliced very small with garlic, onion, scallions, clean green grapes, or with herbs, in whatever way you like.
Parma-style tart. [Tart of Parma]
[122] Take chickens cut into pieces and fry them with finely sliced onions, with a good amount of lard; and once the chickens are cooked enough put spices and a fair amount of salt on them. Then take savory herbs, and put a good amount of saffron on them and mince them thoroughly ...in a good amount, and put the marrow on its fat, and chop it thoroughly with a knife, and thicken and mix it with said herbs with an equal amount of grated cheese. Then take another quantity of this and make ravioli out of it; and also take fresh cheese and make white ravioli. Also take parsley and other savory herbs and fresh cheese and make green ravioli, and dilute all of the aforementioned things with egg. Also take peeled almonds, grind them well and divide them in half; in one part put a good quantity of spices, and in the other put sugar; and from each part make ravioli individually: then take eggs and stuff them. Also take pork intestines well fattened and washed, and stuff them with good herbs and cheese, and boil them well. Also take raw cured meat [presciutto] and slice it thinly and likewise make it into sausage: then take beaten egg and mix it with said chickens in a pot and place it on the coals, and mix it mix it [sic] with a mixing spoon until it is thickened; then take it off the fire and season it with salt. Then take well picked-over flour and make a firm dough, and form it to a pie-pan or frying-pan. Then with a spoon take the broth of said chickens and moisten said dough; then in said dough make a section with the meat of said chickens; in the second section put white ravioli with sauce on top; in the third section put the cured meat and sausage, sliced as described above. In the fourth section put said meat. In the fifth put the cervellati5, that is intestines stuffed as above. Almond ravioli in the sixth; and in each section you may put dates; and also put sauce on each said meat; and in each section put plenty of spices; then put enough spices on top; and open the grate and put the baking-pan on top, and coals above and below. Uncover said tart often and baste it with lard; and it if breaks, take the soft dough and carefully take it and moisten it with water and put it over the break, and put the hot baking-pan on top.
5 Florio: Cervellato, a kinde of dried Sausage called also Re deí cibi, king of meates.
Tart of capon, pheasant, fowl, giblets, and fish.
[123] You can also make a tart from the giblets of capons, pheasants, partridges, wild and domestic fowl, small and large; and of ocean and freshwater fish, and apples, and similar things for fast days, and of fish chopped with spices, with almond milk and eggs; and season it and color it, as you like.
A cheese dish [casciata].
[124] Take fresh cheese rinsed and well pressed, and crumble it finely with your hands in a bowl; then take eggs and beat them well together with said cheese and with chopped and ground lard, and a bit of pepper, if you like, and put it in a crust and season it with salt and cook it. In the aforementioned things, you can put pounded mint or calamint [nepitella], and it is called an herbed dish; and you can make it with scallions and gourd; and you can make such a cheese dish without the crust on top.
A cup of chicken or other fowl.
[125] Cut chickens or fowl into pieces; dilute flour with hot water, and make it very stiff: then make the shape of a cup from said dough and put in it the aforementioned chickens with whole green grapes, saffron and spices, and a bit of cold water, and close it on top with dough, and put it in the oven or rather on top of pans; and on the top of the cup put a big piece of lard.
A cup of other things, and for every day.
[126] You can make a similar cup with beef or pork, as described above. And, for lack of green [unripe] grapes or verjuice, you can put in citron juice, orange juice and rosewater. And you can make a cup from goat and other meats, and from kid innards with savory herbs, spices and saffron, and vary it and color it as you like; and from chickpeas, beans, and gourd and other mixtures that you can put in the pastry.
|