Arabic Tarabulus; ancient Oea, capital of Libya, on the Mediterranean Sea, in the northwestern part of the country.
Tripoli is Libya's largest city and port, and is the country's capital. Meeting-place of the People's Congress and full-time residence of Colonel Qaddafi, it is known in Arabic as Tarabalus Al-Gharb, or Tripoli of the West.
Plans are mooted for a new capital to be sited on the coast of the Gulf of Sirte. Siting the capital on this neutral territory would remove it from both the two rival provinces of Tripolitania and Cyrenaica, and may thus serve as a point of unity between them. Colonel Qaddafi's close family links with the Sirt area may add to the final acceptance of this proposal, but it is, as yet, only in the planning stages in government circles.
Tripoli Medina is an ancient walled city, dating from Roman times. Its high walls were originally built on the landward side to repel attacks from the interior, and these survived many invasions throughout the centuries.
The city's sea-facing wall is less ancient, however, as it was built in the 8th century by Tripoli's Muslim ruler.
There are three large gates built into the city walls: Bab Zanata on the western side, Bab Hawara on the south-eastern side, and Bab al-Bahr on the northern side.
The city's basic street plan is Roman in design and consists of many narrow, criss-cross streets and small, blind alleyways. The latter were often useful to confuse would-be attackers, and to seal off areas used by extended families. Through roads in the old city are mostly unroofed, but with the buildings supported at intervals by buttresses, which also serve to shade the pedestrian from the sun.
Windows facing on to the public street are disappointingly plain, to curb the interest of the curious and to maintain the privacy much prized by all Middle Eastern families. Interior doors, windows and courtyards are, however, much more ornate, with beautiful archways in both Roman and Islamic style, and much elaborate tile, wood and plasterwork.
The old city contains seven beautiful mosques, featuring much impressive architectural detail. The castle, known as Al-Saraya al-Hamra is located on a pre-Roman site in the eastern section of the old city, and dominates the Tripoli skyline. This was once the residence of the ruling families, and contains both public and private quarters, including a large harem, where the women of the family were segregated from the outside world.
In the days when Tripoli was filled with merchants and camel caravans plying the Saharan trade routes, the old city was the site of several large inns, known as serais or funduqs. Here, merchants lodged with their goods and camels, in accommodation surrounding a large courtyard. Several of these serais are still in existence today. They are considerably less ornate in their decoration than the private houses, but still provide interesting insights into the customs of a bygone age.
After Libyan independence in 1951, many traditional families moved out of the old city to occupy houses and apartments formerly used by the departing Italian population. These newer houses were equipped with better sanitation, water supply and other facilities, and the houses in the old city were left abandoned. Most fell into a sorry state of disrepair, as a result of neglect and encroaching damp, and by the mid-1970s, these fragile and beautiful buildings lay in ruins. A project to restore key buildings and to chronicle the city's history was then inaugurated by the Libyan authorities. This has been undertaken very successfully, with the result that the main mosques, synagogues and consular houses in the old city have been fully restored to their former glories. A research workshop and library have also been established in the old city.
During the 18th century, or perhaps a little earlier, the city of Tripoli overspilled its original walls. This outer area was redeveloped in the early 20th century by the Italians, who created a set of administrative buildings, official residences and general residential areas for the Italian colonial population.
The street plan consisted of straight thoroughfares, radiating from Green Square in front of the castle. A cathedral and financial district adjoined the main souq, and the 'garden city' thus formed was affluent and pleasant.
With the 1969 revolution, dramatic changes took place in the city of Tripoli. Colonial influence and European heritage were now seen as less than desirable. Street names were changed, all signs were written in Arabic only and the cathedral was closed. An enormous influx of the Libyan populace into the city resulted in a five-fold increase in Tripoli's population during the seventies and eighties. To accommodate this huge increase, many new suburbs sprang up all around, and a lack of planning resulted in a sprawling metropolitan area with severe traffic congestion at peak times.
In the late 1980s some civil service personnel were removed from the capital to other sites, and this eased the traffic problem slightly. City expansion continues, however, and many people commute into its centre from outlying towns, many travelling between 60 and 80 kilometres to and from work each day.
Traffic congestion is still a major problem and extra travelling time should therefore be allowed by those intending to keep business appointments.
The city centre is still Green Square in front of the castle, and most of the major commercial streets lead off from it. The former palace of the late King Idris is situated at the southern end of Sharah Mohammed Magarief, one of Tripoli's two main streets, about 500m south of the former cathedral. It is now known as the People's Palace, and is used by Colonel Qaddifi's political activists. The former cathedral is now used as a mosque.
The coast road, which traverses the old harbour area, has no buildings and is chiefly used by traffic travelling eastward.
The Castle is open daily until 2pm and contains a library and museum. It also commands spectacular views over the old city. Entrance is free.
The Castle Museum is situated about 500m away and contains artefacts from Libya's ancient history, with Phoenician, Greek and Roman exhibits. A display devoted to modern history occupies the top floor. The museum is open every weekday from 8am to 2pm. An entrance fee is charged.
The Medina Museum is housed in a renovated building and contains a library, and interesting illustrated displays. The museum is open every weekday from 8am to 2pm, and entrance is free.
Mosque of Ahmad Pasha Karamanli
This is probably the most splendid mosque in the entire city. Located a short distance from the castle, at the entrance to the main souq, this mosque was built in 1711 by the founder of the Karamanli dynasty and Governor of Tripoli. At its centre is a twenty-five domed roof built over a sanctuary which is decorated with very beautiful stucco work. In a separate room lie the tombs of Ahmad Pasha and his family, surmounted by an impressive octagonal minaret built in the distinctive Turkish style.
The En-Naqah Mosque
This is Tripoli's oldest mosque, and the present building is a mixture of dates; its last major additions were built in about 1610. It is often known as the camel mosque, after a story told about the Arab conqueror Amr Ibn al-As, who was said to have been offered large camel-loads of tribute by the citizens of Tripoli, presumably in return for a peaceful life. The conqueror is said to have refused the gifts, but asked instead for a mosque to be built in the city.
The roof of the mosque consists of 42 brick-built domes, supported by columns from various sources, some of which date from Roman times. The minaret is square in shape and its spiral stairway is made of plaster and palm wood.
The Gurgi Mosque
The elegant architecture of this mosque make it one of the most interesting to the visitor. It was built by Yussef Gurgi in 1833, to a 16-metre square plan. Its nine columns support a roof made up of sixteen small domes. The mosque's minaret, which is the tallest of all Tripoli's mosques, is octagonal in shape and has two balconies. The mosque contains a large amount of delicately ornate decoration which is most pleasing to the eye.
The Al-Jami' Mosque
Founded by Othman Ra'is in 1670, this mosque contains some interesting inscriptions. It is known as the 'Great Mosque' of Tripoli.