The areas
| Eagle's Nest | Green Lane | Point Pure | The Wolf's Lair | Gymp Crag |
A very different crag for South East Queensland. This is a large sandstone area with at least five seperate crags. Many routes are overhung, pocketed and sportingly bolted giving pumpy climbing. Many bolts placed in this area are dangerous - take care, if a bolt wobbles, chances are its about to fall out! The Forestry Department has placed safe large ring bolts at the tops of most of these climbs making descents and belays very easy.
Where is it?
The area is situated about 20km north west of Gypmie. From the 80km'h sign as you leave Gympie drive north for 10km to the Kilkavan turnoff. Turn down this and drive along for 5.6km to find the Brooyar State Forest turnoff on the left. This dirt road meanders through the forest with numerous small roads branching off on each side. At 3.4km down this dirt road take the left turn at the road branch. At 5.9km you will reach Eagles Nest crag.
Check this map of some of the areas.
Eagle's Nest 
This is a fifty metre high wall directly below the lookout. To
reach the base walk to the left side of the wall (when facing
out) and scramble down to base. Walk back along the cliff for
70m to the first climbs. The classic route Looking For The Sun (19) climbs the big red wall on bolts and natural gear. Great bouldering and two overhung sport routes - Bosnian Broth (23) (with FHs) and Blinky Bill's American Breakfast (23) (with rings) are on the far right of this crag.
- Neil Monteith bouldering below Eagles Nest.
- Adam Donaghue on Bosnian Broth (23) Eagles Nest.
- Lee Skidmore Looking For The Sun (19) at Eagles Nest.
From the Eagles Nest carpark drive 500m along to find an intersection. Take the left road and park in the Point Pure carpark. Follow the map to locate the next two areas.
Green Lane
A beautiful small crag with some of the best rock around.
A small track leads down a gully to the base of the cliff. Right of descent track are a couple of easy routes and some good boulder problems. To the left are many hard sport routes in the low grade 20's and a couple of easier routes.
- Neil Monteith bouldering on the superb rock of Green Lane.
- Lee Skidmore on a grade (20) corner and face route at Green Lane.
- Neil Monteith on one of Green Lane's testpieces.
- Philippa Newton on a grade (13) face route.
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Point Pure Some good longer routes with mostly dodgy bolts and natural protection. From the lookout walk left and down to the base of the cliff. The classic ring bolted overhang The Great Devoid (22) is found on the far right of this crag. Most routes here are on soft rock so beware of loose rock and dodgy bolts.
- Neil Monteith on The Great Devoid (22). A further 1km down the road is The Wolf's Lair. Park at the dirt road on the left side of the road and walk across the road and down to the cliff. There is basically no track, so you'll have to seach around a bit - look for the top of the cliff!
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The Wolf's Lair
A newly develped cliff with a bit of new route potential. Seven routes and at least one project exist currently. All routes climb overhung country on solid rock. Bio Logic (13), a great 15m juggy arete has three bolts and is accessed by abseiling from trees at the top of the crag. After walking down to the left of the cliff (facing out) you'll find a detached overhanging block sporting two marked and bolted routes. The first is Awesome Wells (21) and the second (to the left) is marked "AF" and is harder. Both finish at the same chain. Further to the left of these routes, the main wall splits into an upper and a lower terrace. The lower has some bouldering problems and the upper has two routes and a project, all by Neil Monteith. The first route is Sheep Clothing (21) and has three bolts. Suitboy (21) is the route just to the left and starts up the "ouch!" looking crack on natural gear and trends left past a bolt and up. Neil's preposterous project, Carnivore is 5m left of this.
- Neil on the FFA of
Predator.
- The very nice Philippa Newton seconding the very nice
Bio Logic (13).
- Lee Skidmore nailing the last move on
Awesome Wells (22).
500m further down the road on the right is the small area Gymp Crag.
Gymp Crag
Only one route exists currently which crosses the lip of this big cave. It's The Gymp is Sleeping (21) and is a bolted sport route covering some mega steep territory. Good bouldering is to be had on the far right of the crag.
- Neil Monteith on the FFA of The Gymp is Sleeping (21) Gymp Crag.
- Neil again on the same route.
- Neil
turning the lip of the same route.
- Marty Blumen bouldering Gymp Crag.
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Back to The Original Queensland Climbing Reference
since Aug '98
