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Korean National Parks

No matter how fun Seoul may be, you need to get away and explore Korea's national parks. If you enjoy hiking, you've found heaven. My favorite parks are Soraksan, Chirisan, Hallasan, and Taedunsan. They are often packed during the summer with students, and also in the fall, when the trees turn color. Korea has numerous national parks, and I probably only saw half of them in the three and a half years that I lived there. I've put some additional links below, but here is a general overview.

WHAT TO SEE: Temples. They are everywhere, and are a nice place to find solitude and refuge, unless it's a weekend. Enjoy the fall colors, along with the thousands of others will will have the same idea. The parks are gorgeous during the winter and no one's around!

WHAT TO DO: Since most Koreans still work on Saturday, it's best to leave for your destination on Friday night, after rush hour. That way you can begin your hiking on Saturday morning and avoid the throngs of visitors. Spend a few thousand more won and take the "Excellent Express!" These buses have extra wide seats, a TV, and a mobile pay phone! Better yet, take the train, so you are not held up in traffic when you return. You'll have to buy your tickets ahead of time, but if you have to cancel a trip, you will only be penalized 10% of the fare if you return your tickets 24 hours before departure. When you're in the countryside, a great way of getting around is hitchhiking. Yes, I said hitchhike. The police officers are the best to ask, but you'll find that you can get a ride easily to your destination). Of course women shouldn't do this alone, but if there are two of you, you'll be fine. Look around the tourist villages and you'll be fascinated by the scores of souvenir shops that sell the same junk. You'll probably have to pry yourself away from that traditional Korean craft, a woodburning of Brad Pitt and Meg Ryan.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Do not leave too late on Sunday afternoon unless you don't mind being trapped in Korea's awful traffic for hours. Don't start your hike too late on a weekend if you want to make it where there is a scenic view, because otherwise you may have to queue just to go up the mountain!

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT: The tourist villages have terrible and overpriced food, though if you're stuck, it's pretty hard to ruin bibimbap, a dish of rice mixed with vegetables. Ask for the price first, but when you're in the park, treat yourself to some yummy pin-dae-ddeok, which can be described as a vegetable pancake, and some so-ju. You may be better off bringing your own food if you're camping.

WHERE TO STAY: When you arrive at your destination, you will be greeted by a pack of ah-joo-mahs and hal-moh-nees(grandmothers), who will demand that you stay at their minbak, which is basically a room in their home. Most are very basic, but some are quite nice, like a room at an inn with your own bathroom. Check the room and make sure it's to your liking before you hand over the money, and be sure to bargain to make sure you're not ripped off. You could probably sleep for as cheaply as 10,000 to 15,000 won a night, but during high season, expect to pay a lot more. Be wary of the inns in the tourist villages: again, make sure you like the room before you kiss that won good-bye! There are plenty of spaces for camping, so that may be the cheapest option for you. During the summer you'll befriend Korean students quickly, especially if you are a white woman trying to set up her tent.