Attractions
	Where to Stay
	Where to Eat
	Transport
	Leisure Time
	Outside Lima

Lima, the City of Kings

The first destination for the travellers to Peru is Lima, its capital city and center of South America during the colonial times when it was called the City of Kings. Here you will discover its friendly and lively people, rich culture and superb food. Lima is a metropoli of changes, place of contrasts and show case of all Peru. Once called the Garden City, Lima is a city to love or hate, where you will find space and time for doing everything. Being a neversleeping metropoli, its nightlife is full of fun and joy, and as choices are wide, contact with nature is possible at one or two hours of distance!

Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro on January 18, 1535. Near a valley (the river Rímac) formed by beautiful forests and a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, it was an unequal and strategical place in that moment to be the Spanish colony centre. Its location and wealth attracted numerous merchants and pirates that attacked and robbed Lima during the 16th and 17th centuries.

The Plaza Mayor (Main Square) was the scenery for the Independence Declaration on July 28, 1821 and it marked the beginning of the end of the Spanish colonial rule in Peru and South America. It is also the landmark and central point of all the area known as "Damero de Pizarro" (Pizarro's Square), which has been classified as a "Cultural Heritage of Humankind" since 1992.

As Lima is located in the central coast of Peru, it begun to suffer an accelerated growing due to its activities concentration (centralism). Migration from highlands and jungle became massive since the 50's. People went down to the Coast in search of living opportunities. Then, a poverty belt was formed around the old city and with the years they became "microcities". Now, the population is more than 7 million.

Compared to other southamerican capital cities, Lima has an stable and humid weather. In summer (Dec-Mar), sun is strong, clear sky and an average temperature of 26°C. The rest of the year, the sky becomes grey, drizzle but never rain and a winter of 12°C in average (Jun-Sep). From September, the weather gets warmer and mild. In summer, limeños escape to the southern beaches (20 to 50km). In autumn and winter, people goes in search of sun to the countrysides of Chosica, Canta and Cieneguilla (in the valleys of rivers Rímac, Chillón and Lurín respectively), 30 to 60 km east of Lima, near the Andes slopes.

ATTRACTIONS

Museums Lima is by excelence, a city of museums. With more than 50 museums in the city, the best ones in Peru are located here. From public to private and from general to specialized museums, visiting them can be a good experience to know the different processes in topics like history, archaeology, anthropology, nature, culture, technology, art, religion, costumes, collections and crime. Although it is difficult to visit the majority of them in few days, we recommend you to visit the Museo de la Nación, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia, Museo de Oro, Museo Larco Herrera and Museo Amano. If you want to know specific details for each one and all the other museums available in this city, please check this list of museums in Lima.

Plazas As every city in Peru, the Plazas (squares) are the main and central point. Spaniards established in each city a main square (Plaza de Armas) surrounded by a church and the local government buildings. In the case of Lima, the Plaza Mayor (formerly called "Plaza de Armas") was the old heart of Lima and its foundation place. The only original parts of it are the central old bronze fountain built in 1650 and the building (Casa del Oidor) in the corner of the Government Palace and the Archbishop's Palace.

The Plaza Mayor is surrounded at the north by the Government Palace, an impressive house where the President lives. A visit to it is worthwhile. Try to watch the change of guard at 11:45 am everyday. At the east is located the Archbishop's Palace, built in this century with a superb balcony, and we find the Cathedral at the right hand of it. In front of it, there is the Municipal Palace, with an arcade corridor in the ground floor and two "suspicious" canyons in the balcony, recently found in the square. Between the Municipalidad and the Government Palace, there is a big statue of Francisco Pizarro in his horse, a statue claimed to be offensive to the city.

From the Plaza Mayor we take the Jirón de la Unión, a long pedestrian street (full of shops and restaurants) that connects it with the Plaza San Martín, a big square built in the beginning of this century. At the centre, there is an statue of General San Martín, the Argentinian liberator of Peru built for the Indepencence 100th anniversary in 1921. In the surroundings, there are arcaded buildings with shops, night clubs, restaurants and hotels.

Other important squares are: Plaza Italia (Barrios Altos), Plaza Bolívar (in front of Congress), Plaza Grau (near Museo de Arte), Plaza Bolognesi, Plaza Alfonso Ugarte and Plaza 2 de Mayo.

Churches and Religious Buildings In central Lima there are more than 25 churches with historical value. This is a small reference of the most important ones.

The Cathedral remains in the same place where it was originally built, but have been rebuilt after some earthquakes (latest in 1746). It have interesting works of wood-carving in the choir stalls. The altars are finely covered with silver. In the walls, you can appreciate the original Spanish mosaics with the inscriptions of Pizarro and the coat of arms of Lima. There is a Museo de Arte Religioso at the back. In a chapel (right hand from entrance) lies the coffin and remains of F. Pizarro, the founder of Lima. Entry fee: S/. 5.

Notable for its baroque architecture and catacombs is the church and monastery of San Francisco, in the corner of Jr. Ancash and Jr. Lampa. Built in the 17th century, this church has cloisters with the famous Sevillian tiles, a good an old library with some rarities, José de Rivera's paintings, a "hidden" (not often seen) museum of religious art and the well-visited catacombs (under all the religious complex), which are said to contain the remains of 70,000-90,000 people. Is preferable to take the guided tours available there (also in English). Entry fee.

San Pedro is a Jesuit's church built in the 17th century and represents a good example of the early colonial architecture in Lima. It is the only one church which have three main doors, apart from the Cathedral. This matter generated a problem in the Colony, because the cathedral was the unique church that had to have three entrances and the authorities understood it as a defiance. The altars, wood-carved choir and the glazed tilework are worth seeing. This church was also a burial place for the majority of the Viceroys. There is a small and interesting chapel at the right side. In one of its towers you can see the old bell called "La Abuelita" (the grandma') which rang for the first time in 1590 and was the "official" sound in the Independence's Declaration (1821). San Pedro is located in the corner of Jr. Ucayali and Jr. Azángaro.

Santo Domingo church was built between 1540-99 and remains in the same place where Pizarro granted to Dominican friar Valverde. It is one of the religious jewels of colonial Lima. Inside it we can find the remains of Santa Rosa de Lima and San Martín de Porres (America's first black saint). Nice and peaceful cloisters. Near the altar there is an alabaster statue of St. Rose that was presented by Pope Clemente in 1669. Outside, glance the Angel Gabriel statue at the top of the sole tower, the other was destroyed during a battle held in the past century. First block of Jr. Camaná, one block from the Plaza Mayor. Entry fee.

Two important places for the worshipers are the Santuario de Santa Rosa de Lima and Las Nazarenas church. The Santuario de Sta. Rosa (the first New World's saint) is crowded every 30th of August, her day, by thousands of faithful followers who write letters (in search of a miracle) and throw them in the old well. There is a garden with an hermitage built by her (17th century), where she refuged for praying, self-punishment and meditation. There are also some relics and rooms from what it was her original house, near to the church. First block of Av. Tacna. The church of Las Nazarenas is the starting point of one of the most biggest processions in the world (every October). The image of Señor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles) framed in gold and silver, is venerated by millions in Peru and other countries. He is also called "The Purple Christ" and his procession is a big feast in Lima, which for a month changes a lot. This painting (Christ Crucified) was originally made by a black slave in 1655 and resisted for centuries to earthquakes and damages. The church is located in the original place were the painting was made. Av. Tacna, 4th block.

In Jirón de la Unión, corner with Jr. Miró Quesada, there is the church where the first mass was said in 1534. La Merced church, has a fine and decorated front and its interior houses stalls of several venerated saints. The cloisters are interesting to give a visit. Virgin of La Merced is declared as the Marshal of the Peruvian Army.

Convento de Los Descalzos is a Franciscan religious complex located at the end of the colonial Alameda de los Descalzos (descalzos=barefeet) in the old and traditional district of Rímac. There is a collection of 300 paintings belonging to the Cusco, Quito and Lima schools. Through a good guided (45min) tour in Spanish is possible to visit the infirmary, the refectory, the farmacy, the friars' cells and the two old chapels. Entrance fee.

Other interesting churches are: San Agustín, with its impressive churrigueresque style facade and the surprising carved sculpture of "The Death" made by Baltázar Gavilán (corner of Jr. Ica and Jr. Camaná); Santo Tomás, in the corner of Jr. Junín and Jr. Andahuaylas, it is said to have the only circular cloister in the world (apart from Vaticano's church); Jesús María, with a two centuries old carved golden altar in the first block of Jr. Moquegua; Iglesita del Puente, it is said to be the smallest church in the world in an area of approx. 6x4m (1 1/2 block after crossing the Puente de Piedra -stone bridge dating from 1610- back of Government Palace) and San Marcelo with a priceless pair of colonial doors, forth block of Av. Emancipación.

Colonial Buildings and Houses The Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) was built in the early years of this century on the same site where it was located Pizarro´s house. The interiors are charming and luxurious with halls and saloons of different styles. Visit is possible, but you have to make an appointment (with documents) one or two days before. Entrance is by the door of Jr. de la Unión. As said lines up, watching the guard's change is a must (not necessary to be inside it). They wear the same uniform of the last independence battle (Ayacucho, 1824) and are called the "Húsares de Junín".

Nowadays used as the Foreign Affairs Ministry, the Palacio Torre Tagle is one the best evidences of the colonial mansion's architecture in Lima. Superb carved balconies and a courtyard surrounded by rooms and ironwork are its highlights. There is also a 16th century coach in exhibition. On weekdays, visit is only allowed to the patio (working hours). On Saturday is possible to visit the building, a tip expected if you want to visit all. Jr. Ucayali 363, near San Pedro church.

The Plaza de Acho is the main bull ring of Lima. It was founded in 1776 by the Viceroy Amat and is considered the oldest in South America and one of the most important in the world. In October, they celebrate the "Feria del Señor de los Milagros", an international well-known competition. There is an interesting Museo Taurino on its left side. It is located in Rímac district, just going ahead Av. Abancay and crossing the river Rímac.

The Quinta de Presa is now the Museo Virreynal, a fine mansion of the 18th century which shows colonial furniture, Viceroy belongings, clothing and a old carriage. It is located in Rímac, some blocks near the corner of Av. Prolongación Tacna with Av. Pizarro. Entry fee.

Casa de Aliaga is the only colonial house in America which is still ocuppied by the same original family (Jerónimo de Aliaga was one of Pizarro´s soldiers). It maintains its colonial style and has a ceiling of the early Lima times. Located at Jr. de la Unión 224, beside Government Palace and the Central Post Office.

With five balconies and a lookout site, where Don Martín de Osambela used to watch with a telescope the arrival of galleons to Callao port, the Casa de Oquendo (or Palacio de Osambela) is a nice mansion in which art exhibitions are staged. Jr. Conde de Superunda 298.

By one side of the San Francisco church is located the Casa Pilatos, now the Tribunal Constitucional, a mansion from 16th century with stone pillars and unusual stairs at the entrance. Jr. Ancash 390.

Other colonial houses and mansions worth seeing in this area are: Casa de las Trece Monedas, a 19th century residence which is now a restaurant (Ancash 536); Casa de la Riva, a 18th century building in Jr. Ica 426; Casa de la Rada, a bank office which was a fine building dating from the middle of 1700 (Jr. Ucayali, 3rd block). Casa Negreiros, now a restaurant in Jr. Azángaro 532; Casa Barbieri, Jr. Callao near the corner with Jr. Rufino Torrico; Casa Prado, Jr. Cusco 448; Casa Teatro de la AAA, Jr. Ica 323; Casa de Riva Aguero, Jr. Camaná 459, now a Popular Arts Museum of the Universidad Católica and Casa Museo Berckemeyer, a typical 17th century house in Jr. Lima 341.

Archaeological Sites Lima has not been aparted from the precolumbian history. Certainly, it has 4,000 years of presence, when nomads and fishermen settled in this area, specially in the valleys of rivers Rímac, Chillón and Lurín. There are more than 30 recognised sites inside the city and another similar quantity in th surroundings. Others, dissapeared under the urban pressure of this century. From the former El Paraíso to the late Inca site Pachacámac, the archaeological testimonies in Lima are wide and not all are studied yet. As a comment, the Plaza Mayor is built over the temple of Taulichusco, the last sovereign before Pizarro´s arrival to Lima.

Inside the city, we can find the excavated Huaca Pucllana (Juliana) in Miraflores. This was a pre-inca ceremonial and administrative centre of the Lima Culture built with millions of mud bricks (adobe). There is a site museum with some ceramics and artifacts. Free entrance and guide available. Located at 8th block of Av. Gral. Borgoño, near Av. Arequipa, 45th block. Near to it, in the suburb of San Isidro, there is the Huaca Huallamarca or Pan de Azúcar, a Maranga Culture adobe temple built by the 200 AD. There is a site museum. Entry fee. Corner of Av.Nicolás de Ribera and Av. El Rosario, near the Swisshotel (Hotel Oro Verde) and Camino Real shopping center.

There is a complex of huacas, ceremonial sites, belonging to the Maranga Culture in the Parque de las Leyendas Zoo (San Miguel and Pueblo Libre). You can visit them by entering this place. In all that residencial area there are more archaeological sites of the same culture, but not as preserved as them.

Outside the metropolitan area you will find the most important archaeological sites of Lima. By the east, in the Central Highway (Carretera Central), is Puruchuco (km7.5, district of Ate). This is a restored site which that housed to the area's chief. There is a site museum and a fee must be paid. By the km 12.5, there is an entrance (to the left) to Cajamarquilla zinc refinery. 5km inside you will reach the Cajamarquilla site, a pre-inca citadel from Wari Culture, built with big adobe walls. It is said to be one of the most important adobe complexes in the coast. There is an interesting group of holes of 3m depth that were used as granaries. The site is worth seeing, although it is a bit difficult to find it. Some kilometres more from the turn-off to Cajamarquilla (km16) are San Juan de Pariache and Huaycán Tambo, two archaeological remains from precolumbian times.

30 km. south of Lima, by the Panamerican Highway, in the left turn-off to Lurín is located the "king" of all the Lima's archaeological sites, Pachacámac. This was a pre-inca and Inca group of temples, plazas and urban zones, which dominated the Lurín valley and then all the area of present Lima. At the entrance there is a site museum which explains you the development of this area. From here you can take a long circular dirt road to visit the different pyramidal buildings ending at the Temple of Sun, in the top place of Pachacámac. You need half a day to visit this major site. Do not forget to visit the Acllawasi or Mamacona (House of the Chosen Women), a house built by the Inca where is notable to see the mixture of mud and stone in the walls, now excavated and rebuilt. A must. Entrance fee. Outside the site, there are buses to/from Lima every minute.

Unless stated, archaeological sites and on-site museums are closed on Mondays.

Other Places The nicest suburbs in Lima are Miraflores and San Isidro. Connected with the centre by the Av. Arequipa and the Vía Expresa (expressway), they are a residential, commercial and quiet area. A good quantity of the best hotels, banks, companies and shops are located there. In Miraflores, is common to have a stroll by its Parque Central and Parque Kennedy, specially in the afternoons and evenings. In these parks there are musical shows, paintings' exhibitions and a small and round artisans' market. Near there, you find cafés for watching how life walks, art galleries, bookshops, pubs, discotheques and restaurants (Calle de las Pizzas, very frequented). Up from the Bajada Balta is the Parque del Amor (Park of Love) with a very big and sincere sculpture of a kissing couple laid in a bench. Miraflores is a good place for views of the Pacific Ocean.

San Isidro is more commercial, but the best residences and houses are found here, specially those surrounding the Golf de San Isidro club. A nice, traditional and quiet area is the Olivar de San Isidro, an old olive forest with a delightful environment. In the middle there is an artificial lagoon and the Municipal Library.

Next to Miraflores is Barranco, a traditional and bohemian suburb which was in the first middle of the 20th century the "house" of different recognised writers, poets and painters. Now it maintains its charm and has an active nightlife with an area full of pubs and restaurants with musical shows. By an alley from the Parque Municipal you reach the poetic Puente de los Suspiros (the Sighs' Bridge), a inspiring place for intelectuals and musics.

The unique natural protected area inside the big city of Lima is Pantanos de Villa. This is a group of wetlands located in Chorrillos (next to Barranco), end of Av. Huaylas, near to the Panamericana Sur highway. It is originated by the water filtering of rivers Rímac and Lurín that come from the Andes. In the area is possible to do birdwatching, because this is an important spot in the migration routes of birds from Canada to Tierra del Fuego (Chile). There is a museum, watching towers and guides that can explain you while exploring around about all the kinds of birds available and how they live in the lagoons and the gramadales.

Parque de Las Leyendas is the traditional zoo of Lima. It is located in San Miguel, 24th block of Av. La Marina. There is a good sample of typical animal species of Peru. They are classified in three natural regions (coast, highlands and jungle) where its environments has been physically recreated. There is a section called the "Baby Zoo" for young animals and other "International Zoo" for foreign and known animals like giraffes, bears, elephants, tigers and lions. There is an artificial lake, a carbon mine and a group of archaeological sites from the Maranga culture. Entry fee. crowded at weekends. Outside the zoo, there are some souvenir shops.

The newest zoo and research center (since February 1999) is called Centro Ecológico Recreacional Huachipa, located in the same area and near the river Rímac (Av. Las Torres s/n, Huachipa, Ate). This place was created and is maintained by Sedapal, the drinking water service company of Lima, and although by the moment is not as big as the Parque de las Leyendas, they have special care and equipment for the animals. Entry fee: S/. 5. Open 9am-4pm.

Markets & Shopping Although Lima markets are not as typical as those in other peruvian cities, a short visit to them would be good to know about the people and the food. The markets are a sample of how a city is, what do they produce, sell and eat, their mood and how wit they are to survive. If possible, try to go with a local in order to be explained about things you surely have not seen before. If you want a real "exhibition" of fruits available in Peru, go to the Mercado de Frutas (in La Victoria, don´t take belongings with you), the central trading point of fruits coming from all the regions. Probably you will want to take one bundle of each!! Other known "mercados" are: the Mercado Central, between the Av. Abancay and the Chinatown; Mercado Aurora, one block off Av. Tacna in Av. Emancipación; Jesús María market, in the district of same name and the Mercado de Barranco, some blocks near the Parque Municipal of Barranco.

Formerly, there was a big flower market in the southern side of the National Stadium. Then, with the new changes the Major has made, they have been transfered to different areas and in the same place there are only few flower vendors. However, worth a visit to see the great quantity of flower species and colors. Next to it, there is the Municipal Greenhouse, which now is employing (with good social and economic results) the poor wee children who used to rob in central Lima. The other flower markets are located in the Plaza de Acho area and the corner of Vía de Evitamiento and Puente Santa Rosa in Rímac. You have to be careful when going to these both places.

For shopping in supermarkets, there is a wide quantity of them in all Lima. They are very supplied and have special days for discounts, whcich are advertised in frequently in El Comercio daily. The best supermarkets are E. Wong, Santa Isabel and Metro (hypermarket). Avoid the Top Market chain, they usually charge you a different price from what is said in the showcases and the attention to clients is bad.

if you want to go for a non-budget shopping day in great malls and trading centre try the Jockey Plaza Shopping Center, the last biggest mall of Peru and one of its size in South America. The great part of shops there, are for clothing, but there are also restaurants, department stores, fast food, multiplex cinemas, home appliances, etc. It is now a custome for limeños to stroll in Saturdays and Sundays. LarcoMar is the newest shopping centre, which is located in the last block of Av. Larco, Miraflores. There are cafés (inc. a Hard Rock Café with sea view), multicinemas, shops, bowling, restaurant, park, etc. Centro Comercial Camino Real, famous before Jockey Plaza was built, is a big centre of three levels in the area of San Isidro. In San Miguel, there is the Plaza San Miguel, another mall which has been changed and improved. Popular with food, department stores and multiplex cinemas. In Chacarilla (on the way to Museo de Oro), are located the Centro Comercial Caminos del Inca and C.C. Chacarilla, whose "delicacy" is clothing. Others are: C.C. Risso and C.C. Arenales in Lince. The most popular department stores in Lima are Saga Falabella and Ripley. The first blocks of Av. Larco are also popular for shopping as well as the Jirón de la Unión in Central Lima.

Formerly behind the Government Palace (incredibly true!), the ex-black market known as Polvos Azules now has been transfered to a place near the Plaza Grau (one block off) where they are building a trading center as a completion of its legalisation process. You can find there almost anything (new) at good prices (some of them are smuggled). For second-hand or stolen things, try the a-bit-dangerous "La Cachina" market, in the first blocks of Av. Argentina next to the Plaza Castilla. There is also a fair of hardware and house-building goods.

Lima is the best choice for buying handicrafts of good quality with no substantial difference in price comparing to other Peruvian cities. The so-called "Indian markets" display a wide range of handicrafts from all over Peru (sometimes the best pieces are here): weavings, woolen clothing, copies of colonial paintings, jewellery, bric-a-brac, ceramics, woodwork, silver filligrees, alpaca sweaters, iron and leatherwork. First, watch around and after having found the best price, buy. Bargain is possible, but don´t pull the thing so much!! They are located in the Av. La Marina, blocks 6th to 10th, Pueblo Libre. Other good option is the Miraflores' crafts market in Av. Petit Thouars, varied but smaller than la marina markets, 3 blocks from the Miraflores roundabout.

For exchange and cheap books, try the Jr. Quilca fairs, between Plaza San Martín and Av. Garcilaso de la Vega (ex-Wilson). Expensive (but good) books at Librería Epoca (Ovalo Gutiérrez) and the bookshops located in Av. Larco (both in Miraflores).

Beaches The best time for visiting Lima is in the summer. It is sunny and the sky forget for three months the usual mist it has. And is also the best time to see how limeños go massively to the beaches, specially to the Costa Verde and south of Lima beaches.

All the beaches that are in the border of Barranco, Miraflores and San Isidro are called the Costa Verde, the Green Coast, because formerly there were subterranean rivers that came out from the middle of the cliffs and watered all the area becoming green. Now, these beaches are very crowded between January to March. The most recommendable are Playa Redondo, Barranquito and Los Pavos. But, you have to be careful with your belongings, is common to "find" pickpockets while you are sunbathing. Camping here is a bad idea. For going to these beaches, just follow the downway (Bajada Balta) from the central park of Miraflores. Sunsets (18:20-18:45h) viewed from upside the cliffs are really supreme !

South of Lima (by the Panamericana), there are a lot of bathing resorts and good beaches, some like fishermen villages and other luxurious ones. The most known and best ones are El Silencio (km 42), Punta Hermosa (km 44), Punta Rocas (highly rec. for surfing-km 45-), Punta Negra (km 46), San Bartolo (km 52), Santa María (km 55) and Pucusana (km 65). In these beaches is possible to find hotels or rent houses for the summer. The following beaches up to the km 150 are frequented for weekend campings. Just catch a bus in any part of the Panamerican Highway saying "playas del sur" or the names written above. Distances take between 45min to 2 hours.

WHERE TO STAY

Budget Hotels For those who are on a tight budget we can recommend the following places. Our recommendation is based on experiences made by us or by traveller's comments:

- Hotel España. Jr. Azángaro 105, Lima. Single: S/. 16, double: S/. 23, dwb: S/. 29, triple: S/. 31.50. The most known lodging point for backpackers. Located in a colonial house, two blocks from the Plaza Mayor.

- Hostal Residencial Roma. Jr. Ica 326, Lima. Single: S/. 28, swb: S/. 38; double: S/. 45, dwb: S/. 58; triple: S/. 60, twb: S/. 81. Colonial-style house, in front of Teatro Municipal. Have travel agency. 3 blocks from Plaza Mayor.

- Youth Hostel Malka. Los Lirios 165, San Isidro. Common: $6, with ISIC card: $5. Mainly frequented by Israel's travellers. Quiet area. 30 min. from downtown.

- Hostal Mami Panchita (B&B). Av. San Miguel 198, San Miguel. $10 (common) a night w/ continental breakfast. Hot water. Nice and friendly family, they speak Spanish, Dutch, English and French. Have a travel agency. 10 min. from airport.

- Backpacker Hostel (B&B). Av. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco. Shared rooms: $10 night/bed, breakfast included, double: $15 night/bed, breakfast included. Old house in a nice area, near to the beach. Active nightlife.

- Pensión Ibarra (B&B). Av. Tacna 359, #1402 and #1502, Lima. S/. 15-20 p/night. Common bathroom and cooking facilities. Familiar and friendly. 5 blocks from Plaza Mayor.

- Albergue Juvenil Miraflores. Av. Casimiro Ulloa 328, Miraflores. Common: $10, private: $32. Located near the beach and 30 min. from downtown.

WHERE TO EAT

The Gourmet's choice Lima is the best place for food in all over Peru. Apart from its great range of native dishes, you can find here almost food from everywhere in the world. Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, French, Italian, Arabian, Argentinian, North-American, Brazilian, are some examples of the wide offer of restaurants in this capital city.

But, as native food is our business, we hardly recommend you to eat the famous Ceviche here, there are no better samples in any other city (unless it is in the coast). Other good options are Escabeche, Jalea de Pescado, Ají de gallina and Coctail de Camarones. For "small" food, try the papa rellena, anticuchos and pancita. In case, you are homesick and want a hamburger, we strongly encourage to eat at Bembo's Burger Grill, a peruvian chain with lots of burgers and incredibly better than Burger King or Mac Donald.

About desserts, try the picarones, mazamorra morada, turrón de Doña Pepa and arroz con leche. You must drink the Pisco Sour (was born in Lima) or the "un-alcoholic" but refreshing chicha morada. If you want to drink the "national" soft drink (strong competitor of Coke and top-of the-market), try the yellowish Inca Kola. It is proved that the one made here is the best of others produced outside Lima.

Restaurants and Places A list on these places would be long. We will try to include the best ones (expensive and cheap ones, but recommended!) in all kind of foods. The expensive restaurants charge an amount of taxes, while the cheap ones only the IGV (18%). Check first.

- Costa Verde. Playa Barranquito, Costa Verde, Miraflores. An expensive restaurant with an incredible quantity of prized and good dishes. Included in the Guiness Records. Check for buffet, brunch or tea times, special prices.

- La Rosa Náutica. Espigón 4, Costa Verde, Miraflores. Built on a pier, this is a fine and expensive restaurant, but with excellent quality of food. Try the tea time while you watch the sunset.

- Plaza Italia. Plaza Italia, Barrios Altos, Lima. A traditional square which every weekend is full of people. It is like a fair of peruvian food, where you can try a good deal of typical dishes and desserts. Cheap prices.

- Bar Cordano. Corner of Jr. Ancash and Jr. Carabaya (in front of Desamparados railway station), Lima. A bar-restaurant from beginning of century. They have good food at lunch time, also menu. Their espresso cafe is excellent, but takes time because they have an old and original coffee-maker.

- L'Eau Vive. Jr. Ucayali, 370 (in front of Palacio Torre Tagle), Lima. A beautiful mansion that houses a restaurant run by a French order of nuns. Food is good and prices are moderate. They have menu and "a la carta" dishes. A quiet place with peruvian and international food.

- Raimondi. Jr. Miró Quesada 110 (between Jr. de la Unión and Jr. Carabaya), Lima. A good restaurant, although it is a bit hidden, without sign. Its carved wood roof is impressive. Prices are moderate.

- Ceviche street. Av. La Rosa Toro (two blocks from Av. Javier Prado Este), San Borja. This is a block of seafood restaurants. Now, they are very popular and have replaced the former famous Av. José Galvez in Miraflores. These restaurants are usually full of people eating ceviches, jaleas, chicharrones, sudados and other fish-based dishes. Cheap prices and big dishes! A dish (fuente) can be shared by two or three people.

- Manos Morenas. Av. Pedro de Osma 409, Barranco. A restaurant with typical peruvian food, specially "criolla" food. They also shows from Wed. to Sat. Prices are moderate.

- Calle de las Pizzas. Av. Diagonal (opposite Parque Central), Miraflores. A popular alley with lots of "pizzerias" that offer all kind of pastas and wine (incl. sangrías). Very frequented on weekend nights. Regular prices.

- Chinatown Chifas. Near the Mercado Central is located the Chinatown (Jr.Ucayali and Jr. Paruro area), where you will find a good number of chifas (peruvian-chinese food), from cheap to expensive ones. They are a good option in downtown. The best of them is Chifa Wa Lok (Jr. Paruro 864) with really good food but expensive prices.

- Bircher Benner. Av. Diez Canseco 487, Miraflores. A good choice for vegetarian restaurant in Lima. Price is good and they have a good deal of peruvian (veggie) dishes.

- Govinda. 1) Av. Schell 630, Miraflores; 2) Av. Garcilaso de la Vega 1670, Lima; 3) Jr. Callao 480, Lima. These vegetarian restaurants are run by the Hare Krishnas. They have cheap prices and good value food.

TRANSPORT

Taxi There are taxis by everywhere. Also it is the safest mean of transport in Lima. Is common to hail a taxi in the street and you have to fix the price with the taxidriver (no meters), bargaining possible. Other taxis, like by radio or by phone contact, are expensive but also more secure. Fortunately, taxi service is being regulated in Lima during these years and the Major has ordered the service in "Yellow Taxis". Painted in yellow, with the "taxi" signal on the roof and a sticker in the windscreen, these are the best option for taxis, because they offer you insurance, touristic advice, mechanical assistance and safety. They have a hotline for making complaints and lost things (SETAME, Servicio de Taxi Metropolitano). They also are allowed to enter to the Historic Center.

These are some average prices (minimum is S/.4): Miraflores-Downtown= S/. 7-9, Miraflores-San Isidro= S/. 4-5, San Isidro-Downtown= S/. 5-7, Miraflores-Museo de Oro (Monterrico)= S/. 6-7, Miraflores-Museums in Pueblo Libre= S/. 6-8, Miraflores-Museo de la Nación= S/. 5-7, Miraflores-Pachacámac= S/. 15-20, Downtown-Museo de Oro= S/. 10-12, Downtown-Museums in P.Libre= S/. 5-7, Miraflores-Barranco= S/. 4, Airport-Downtown= S/. 9-15, Airport-Miraflores= S/. 15-25.

Local buses and combis The local buses are called micros (big ones) and combis (minibuses or vans). As they are usually crowded of people, you must take care of your belongings. The average price is S/. 1; at nights after 12am and sundays, ticket cost S/. 1.20. In national holidays, price is added a 50%. If you want some adrenalin, you should try the Combis, by far, the most awesome buses. When getting off a bus just say baja ! (go down) or esquina ! (corner). Do not forget to request your bus ticket saying boleto, it will help you in case of an accident.

Some guides say you must go to the first bus stop if you want to go to a specific place. It is not completely true, it makes you waste time and money. Is better if you ask to local people how to go to "x" place, by asking bus number, avenue where it passes and connection you must do. Police is also very helpful.

Interprovincial Bus These buses cover long-distance trips. From Lima, there are almost buses for all the cities in the country (no Iquitos). Prices vary in national holidays, but in average are cheap. Companies have different services for each route. From a basic one to another with an air conditioned bus, hostess, meal, bathroom, TV, movies and bed-seats. Trips may long 2 hours (Lima-Huacho) up to 35 hours (Lima-Tarapoto).

Recommendable bus companies are Ormeño (Av. Javier Prado Este 1059, Santa Catalina, Lima. Ph. 472-1710 or Av. Carlos Zavala 177, Lima. Ph.427-5679), Cruz del Sur (corner Av. Javier Prado Este and Av. Nicolás Arriola, Santa Catalina, Lima. Ph. 225-6200 or Jr. Quilca 531, Lima. Ph. 424-1005), Civa (corner Av. Carlos Zavala and Jr. Montevideo, Lima. Ph.428-5649 / 426-4926). Other alternative companies are: Móvil Tours (to Huaraz), Expreso Molina (to Ayacucho), Mariscal Cáceres (to Huancayo), Oltursa (to Piura, Tumbes and Arequipa), Perú Bus (to Ica), Apóstol San Pedro (to Cerro de Pasco) and TEPSA. Nearly all the bus companies are located in the area of Av. Abancay, Av. Carlos Zavala and Jr. Montevideo. Be careful with "one-bus" companies. In a couple of years, all these companies will have special bus terminals at the south, east and north of Lima.

Train Lima is the starting point of the Ferrocarril Central, the highest railway in the world. Service has been reopen since July 1998, but stops during raining season (January-March). All sundays, there is a service to the small and sunny village of San Bartolomé (50km east of Lima), where you can go for a "picnic" day. Price is S/. 17 (both ways). The other service is made every weekend of each month to Huancayo, by far, the most exciting trip by train in South America ! Price (two ways) is S/. 60, including meal and assistance.

ENAFER, the railway company, has its offices in the Desamparados station just behind the Government Palace in Jr. Ancash 207, Lima. Phone: 428-9440 / 427-6620. E-mail: webmaster@mail.enafer.com. They can also give you information about their other services like Arequipa-Puno, Puno-Lake Titicaca-Bolivia (Ollanta Steamer), Puno-Cusco and Cusco-Machu Picchu.

LEISURE TIME

Living in or visiting Lima offers the possibility to know why the limeños are the most cheerful people in Peru. Choices for entertainment are wide and limeños has stamped the phrase "la noche es larga" (night is long) in reference to stay until your body supports (drinking, dancing, chatting, etc). A list of our recommended places for leisure and entertainment in Lima: cinemas, cine clubs, theatres, art galleries, cafés, bars, pubs, discos and peñas.

Cinemas and Cine Clubs

- Cinemark (Jockey Plaza Shopping Center). Av. Javier Prado Este 4200, Monterrico. Multicinema.

- UVK (LarcoMar). Parque Salazar, Miraflores. Multicinema.

- StarVision (El Pacífico). Ovalo de Miraflores. Multicinema.

- Cineplex. Calle Mantaro 356, San Miguel. Multicinema.

- Filmoteca de Lima (Museo de Arte). Paseo Colón 1225, Lima. The best cine club in Lima. They make forums and program special exhibitions on countries, directors and subjects. The main film archive of Peru.

- El Cinematógrafo. Calle Pérez Roca 196, Barranco. Cine club.

- Cine Club Mélies. Av. Bolívar 635, Pueblo Libre.

Theatre and Art Galleries

- Teatro Municipal. Jr. Ica 3rd block, Lima. Now it is being rebuilt after a great fire in 1998. It is the main place for proffesional plays, orchestral and ballet performances. It will reopen on 2000.

- Teatro Marsano. Av. Gral. Suárez 409, Miraflores. Commercial and comedy plays.

- Teatro Británico. Calle Bellavista 529, Miraflores. Place were the local theatre group The Good Companions (from the Brittish Council) perform good English plays.

- La Tarumba. Calle Leoncio Prado 225, Miraflores. Circus mixed with theatre. A good option if you want to watch alternative proposals.

- Teatro Mocha Graña. Av. Sáenz Peña 107, Barranco. Good plays by independent groups.

- Centro Cultural Univ. Católica. Av. Camino Real 1075, San Isidro. Good plays made by students and proffessional actors. Art exhibitions.

- Centro Cultural Ricardo Palma. Av. Larco, Miraflores. Theatre, cine, library and art gallery.

- Galería Pancho Fierro. Plaza Mayor, Lima. Good art expositions.

- Galería Municipalidad de Miraflores. Av. Larco, corner with Diez Canseco, Miraflores. A traditional place for reknowned art expositions.

Cafés

- Café Café. 1) Calle Mártir Olaya 250, Miraflores; 2) Av. Alvarez Calderón 198, San Isidro.

- Haiti. Ovalo de Miraflores.

- Café Olé. Av. Pancho Fierro 115, San Isidro.

- News Café. Santa Luisa 110-120, San Isidro.

- Hard Rock Café. Larcomar Shopping Center. Miraflores.

- Sbarro Café. Jr. de la Unión 574, Lima.

- Atlantic. Jr. Huallaga 146, Lima.

- Phantom Internet Café. Av. Diagonal 344, 2nd and 3rd floor, Miraflores.

- Bohemia Café. 1) Av. Santa Cruz 805, Miraflores; 2) Psje. Nicolás de Ribera El Viejo 142, Lima; 3) Av. El Polo 706, 2nd floor, Surco.

- Mangos Café Restaurant. 1) Ovalo Gutiérrez 789, Miraflores; 2) Av. Canaval y Moreyra 312, San Isidro; 3) Calle Aldabas 475 (block 52 Av. Prol. Benavides), Surco.

Internet Points

Visit our long, but useful list of all the Internet public booths in Lima and the rest of the country.

Bars and Pubs

- El Rincón Cervecero. Jr. de la Unión 1045-A (Ex-Belén), Lima. A good place for drinking beer in downtown Lima.

- La Noche. Av. Bolognesi 307, Barranco. They offer live rock band shows. Nice environment. There is also an art gallery.

- Media Naranja. Av. Schell, corner with Psje. Porta. The place for Brazilian drinks with music included.

- Angellos Video Pub Karaoke. Av. Aviación 2520-2522, San Borja. Sing along in this popular karaoke. Moderate prices.

- Jammbuche. Av. Benavides 3624, Urb. Chama, Surco. A good little place for beer and snacks. Good prices.

Discos

- Mamut. A good discotheque, popular with middle and upper-class young people.

- Kimbara. Av. Paseo de la República 1401, La Victoria. If you want to shake your body with live salsa music, this is the right place. It is very popular with "salseros". Visited by salsa orchestras from Latin America.

Peñas and live shows

- Brisas del Titicaca. Jr. Wakulski 168 (one block from Plaza Bolognesi), Breña. Folkloric live shows. Good place with moderate prices. Popular with locals.

- Hatuchay. Jr. Trujillo 228 (one block back of Gov. Palace, crossing the old bridge), Rímac. Folkloric live music. A cheaper and good alternative to Brisas del Titicaca.

- La Estación de Barranco.Av. Pedro de Osma 112, Barranco. Live Peruvian music shows.

- Sachún. Av. del Ejército 657, Miraflores. "Criolla" music shows, good food.

- De Rompe y Raja. Calle Manuel Segura 127, Barranco. A "Peña" oriented to "negroide" Peruvian music.

OUTSIDE LIMA

From a number of trails (including Inka ones) for the restless backpacker to small and hospitable villages for the relaxed traveller, choices for going out of metropolitan Lima are wide and numerous. Every province of this department has lots of attractions, some of them very known and touristy and others off the beaten track.

Callao This is the main port of Lima, but in fact, it is a Constitutional Province. Now, is the same to say Lima-Callao, because they are like one city. The international airport of Lima is located in Callao, as well as the main industries. But Callao, has an important role in history because it was the major port of all the Spanish Colony in South America. As it was the entrance gate of Lima, it had to resist the pirates attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries.

In the centre we can visit the old houses, the Museo Naval, the Real Felipe fortress (with a museum) and the Plaza Miguel Grau, where you can take a boat to visit the nearby islands (San Lorenzo, El Frontón) in the Pacific Ocean. If you want to see marine fauna, take a yatch to the Palomino islands (behind San Lorenzo), a good option to supply those who cannot go to Ballestas Islands in Pisco (Ica).

Chosica This is the sun resort for limeños during the winter. Located 35km to the east of Lima, Chosica is a countryside town (850masl) in the Andes slopes and near the river Rímac. Linked with Lima through the Central Highway, this long valley can be used as a starting point for visits to other towns, villages and for trekking routes. Up to the Andes, every village has something to offer: landscapes, archaeological sites, waterfalls and products from the cultivated fields. If interested in this area, after visiting Chosica you can go to San Pedro de Casta (Markawasi for trekking), San Bartolomé (Bosques de Zárate for trekking), San Jerónimo de Surco, Matucana, San Mateo and Ticlio. An alternative visit to this area could be using the Lima-Huancayo train.

Canta This is the capital of the province of same name. Located in the "Valle del río Chillón" (left hand of Chosica from Lima), the andean Canta and its surroundings are nice spots for resting and exploring. Canta can be reached from Lima by bus or car (2h30m-3h) through a good highway. In the way, you can visit Santa Rosa de Quives, a former place where the saint lived; the Checta petrogliphs and the archaeological site of Cantamarca. Canta is a good place for staying in the night and continue your trip up the valley (by a dirt road) visiting Obrajillo, Huaros, Cullhuay and if possible to the "Cordillera de La Viuda", the snowed mountain range in the border with Pasco department and near the Huayllay National Sanctuary, which is a great geological park called "stone forest".

Lomas de Lachay National Reserve In the km. 105 of the Panamericana Norte highway we find the Lomas de Lachay, an oasis in the coastal desert. This is a protected area where you will feel like an enchanted place in the middle of the desert. It has centennial tara trees and other flora like flower plants, cactuses and bushes. There are animals like foxes, owls, eagles and other birds, lizards and insects. This place only "lives" during the season between August and November, when the condensation of the fog coming from the sea makes all these area to be green and full of life.

Cieneguilla Another sun resort used by limeños during the winter. It is located in the river Lurín valley. There are restaurants, zoos and hotels for staying in a warm weekend. One hour from Lima through a paved road. This road takes us to small villages located along the Lurín valley.

Yauyos This town is located in the Andes of Cañete (150km S of Lima). From Cañete, you have to take a road that goes to Lunahuaná (45m), a good place for rafting, and then continue up the highlands for a total distance of 280km from Lima. Surely, Yauyos is the most beautiful place of the department of Lima. There is not a similar place that have rivers, waterfalls, Inka trails, archaeological sites, fields, lakes, snowed mountains and picturesque villages. This is the place for backpackers visiting Lima. A good option and round trip is to continue ahead and reach the city of Huancayo.

Churín Known as the thermo-medicinal springs resort of Lima, Churín is a nice town in the Andes, specially visited by people in search of relax and cure to their illnesses. This bathing resort has a good deal of hotels, but a half of the way is unpaved. From Lima you must take the Panamericana Norte highway, turn right in Huaura (km. 152) and going ahead until Churín. The total distance from the capital city is 307km. Other nearby places are Chiuchín, Rapaz (with 400 year old church, reknowned by World Monuments Watch), Huancahuasi, Andajes and Sayán.

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