Q: What is Audi 100/200/5000?
A: In 1982 German car manufacturer Audi presented a new generation of large cars.
They're often called "44-chassis", from the Audi's internal model line designation.
Audi 100 was a base model. In 1983 it was accompanied by it's more luxurious version, the 200.
In 1984 Audi began exporting those cars to USA under the name 5000.
The cars are available in either sedan or wagon versions. A wide selection of engines is
available, ranging from 4cyl to 5cyl turbocharged gas engines and both normally
aspirated and turbocharged diesels. Available transmissions are either 4 or 5 speed
manual or 3sp automatic.
In 1985 (1986 in USA) the Quattro version was introduced, featuring permanent all wheel drive
system with lockable differentials. This version was available with gas engines and manual trans only.
In 1988 a face lift was performed on 44 chassis series, most important changes being new dashboard, flush
door handles, "intelligent" Torsen center differential on Quattro and optional 4sp automatic trans on FWD models.
In 1989 redesigned models were introduced in USA. The designation 5000 was dropped and
new models were called 100 and 200, just like in Europe.
1991 is the end of production of 44-chassis cars in Germany. They are still in production under licence in China.
Q: Is it true that these cars can accelerate on their own?
A: Of course not. In mid 80s there was a number of accidents in USA involving Audis 5000 where drivers reported that the car was accelerating even though
the driver was stepping on the brake pedal. The TV show "60 minutes" made a sending about this. They tried to recreate the problem
on the test vehicle, but failed to do so. They had to actually modify the car to make this happen. The true cause of the problem was simply
that the pedals on the Audi are positioned much closer to each other than on most American cars. This was causing some drivers to mistakenly press the gas
pedal while they were intending to brake.
Q: What engines were used in those cars?
A: The following tables present the list of engines used in 44-chassis cars.
Code
| Production period
| Cylinders
| Displacement
| Horsepower (Hp/rev.min)
| Torque (Nm/rev.min)
| Injection system
| Cat. converter
| Oxygen sensor
| Turbocharged
| DR
| ??
| 4
| 1781
| 75/??
| ??/??
| 1B3 carb.
| DS
| ??
| 4
| 1781
| 90/??
| ??/??
| 2E2 carb.
| HX
| 08.84-12.87
| 5
| 2226
| 138/5700
| 185/3500
| K-Jetronic
| KG
| 08.83-01.88
| 5
| 2144
| 182/5700
| 252/3600
| K-Jetronic
| X
| KP
| 08.84-12.87
| 5
| 1994
| 115/5200
| 170/3000
| K-Jetronic
| KU
| 08.84-11.90
| 5
| 2226
| 138/5700
| 185/3500
| K-Jetronic
| KZ*
| 08.84-09.86
| 5
| 2226
| 115/5500
| 165/2500
| KE-Jetronic
| X
| X
| MC*
| 08.85-11.90
| 5
| 2226
| 165/5500
| 240/3000
| K-Jetronic
| X
| X
| X
| NF*
| 08.85-11.90
| 5
| 2309
| 136/5500
| 190/4000
| KE II-Jetronic
| X
| X
| PX
| 08.85-07.88
| 5
| 2226
| 120/5600
| 172/3400
| KE-Jetronic
| X
| X
| RT
| 01.88-11.90
| 5
| 1994
| 115/5400
| 172/4000
| KE-Jetronic
| X
| SL
| 02.86-07.87
| 5
| 1994
| 113/5200
| 165/3000
| K-Jetronic
| X
| WC
| 08.82-07.84
| 5
| 2144
| 136/5700
| 180/4800
| K-Jetronic
| WH
| 08.82-07.84
| 5
| 1921
| 100/5600
| 150/3200
| Keihin carb.
| WU*
| 08.83-07.86
| 5
| 2144
| 105/5500
| 152/3000
| K-Jetronic
| X
| X
| KH*
| 08.83-07.86
| 5
| 2144
| 140/5500
| 202/2500
| K-Jetronic
| X
| X
| X
| 1B
| 02.88-11.90
| 5
| 2226
| 200/5800
| 270/3000
| K-Jetronic
| X
| 3B*
| 09.88-11.90
| 5
| 2226
| 220/5700
| 309/1950
| Motronic
| X
| X
| X
| |
Code
| Production period
| Displacement
| Horsepower (Hp/rev.min)
| Torque (Nm/rev.min)
| Turbocharged
| Intercooler
| CN
| 10.82-11.90
| 1986
| 69/4800
| 123/2800
| DE
| 10.82-11.90
| 1986
| 87/4500
| 172/2800
| X
| NC
| 04.88-11.90
| 1986
| 100/4500
| 192/2200
| X
| X
| 3D
| 08.89-11.90
| 2370
| 82/4400
| 164/2400
| 1T
| 01.90-11.90
| 2460
| 120/4250
| 265/2250
| X
| X
| |
Q: Are they reliable and long lasting?
A: Generally speaking, yes. The main components (engine, drivetrain, suspension) are very durable -
there are reports of cars with more than 300k miles and still running strong.
The 44-chassis cars are also known for excellect rust protection, particularly '86 and later models are practically
immune to corrosion, unless damaged. A well cared for Audi can be as good as new even when 15 years old.
You should realize, though, that some individual components on these cars are known for high failure rate. This includes power steering pumps,
steering racks and various hoses. Electrical system is quite complicated and can cause problems as well, particularly on older cars. An Audi will
rarely left you stranded on the road, but you have to maintain your car meticulously and sacrifice some $$$ from time to time to keep it in good condition.
Q: Are they expensive to maintain?
A: This mainly depends on whether you will try to do at least some of the work yourself and spend some time shopping for parts
or solely on the dealer/workshop.
Most Audi dealers have high labor rates and independent mechanics often don't have enough knowledge to work on 44-chassis cars, which have
some unique features. OE replacement parts at the dealers are usually quite expensive (in some cases, insanely expensive). Fortunately, many independent
parts vendors offer OE quality parts at much lower prices. Some components (including often failing steering pumps and racks) can be rebuild rather than
renewed, which allows great savings. Audis are quite easy to work on, although troubleshooting may be sometimes challenging. Doing your own repairs can
usually drop the maintenance costs by half compared to how much would you spend at the dealer. Sometimes you will have to let someone do the repairs or
order an expensive replacement part, though, so remember: driving a high-end German automobile has it's price.
Q: Are there any repair manuals available?
A: Yes, there are several available. The best one is without a doubt an official repair manual published by
Bentley. It is basically the same manual that is used by Audi dealerships. Take note that this book covers US-spec models only. The cost is about $150.
If you would like a cheaper book, then Haynes has manuals for both US and European models. It costs only about $20, but
does not cover Quattro. It's still a valuable book and given the price, it would be shame not to have one.
If you can read German, then Verlag Delius, Klasing & Co. has published a repair manual by H.R.Etzold. Some repair procedures in this book are too laconic
IMHO, but on the other hand there is some information not present in Haynes.
Q: I'm going to purchase a used 5K/100/200. What items should I check to avoid buying a lemon?
A: Below is the list of most important items you should check on a used 44-chassis car. This list does not contain items common to all
cars in general, like "check for damaged CV joint boots" or "check for slipping clutch".
All models:
Q: There's a rattling noise from the engine after startup
A: The noise in question is caused by hydraulic lifters. If it's only apparent after starting a cold engine and goes away after about 2
minutes, then it's considered normal and does not require intervention. If the lifters keep rattling for extended periods of time, though, you may need
to replace them. Some listers had good results in quietening noisy lifters by using different grades/brands of oil. There doesn't seem to be a rule for
this, but you may give it a shot. Also take note that if the oil pressure is too low this is usually signaled by lifter noise as well. New lifters cost
about $15 each.
Q: There's a ticking noise after startup and I can smell gas fumes if I open the hood
A: Not good - it seems that the car suffers from the "warping manifold desease". This mostly applies to turbocharged cars, although
N/A ones can have this problem as well. It seems to be a design flaw - the exhaust manifold can't stand the heat and begins to warp, either breaking
the mounting studs or cracking itself. Audi sells an upgraded, two-piece manifold that is not supposed to warp, unfortunately it costs over $700. If the old
manifold isn't cracked, it can be resurfaced and reinstalled. Cracked manifolds can be eventually welded, but there's no guarrantee that the welded manifold
won't crack again very soon. If any of the mounting studs are broken, the remains have to be drilled out and for this it is best to remove the engine head.
Q: Oil lines look old and corroded/Oil lines are leaking
A: All turbocharged engines and some N/A engines have an oil cooler, which is connected to the engine's oil system by two flexible
lines. There are two similar lines are used for lubricating the turbocharger as well. If the clamps on any of the lines are seriously corroded or, worse
yet, the line started to seep oil, it should be replaced immediately. If the line blows, this will result instant loss of oil and possible engine damage.
You will probably find that the dealer asks outrageous sums for new lines (something like $200 each). The oil cooler lines use industry standard metric
fittings, so most manufacturers of hydraulic components (like Parker Hannifinn) will have matching fittings and assortment of hydraulic hoses in stock. Take
note that the fittings on OE lines have custom designed shape, while common fittings are usually only produced in couple of universal shapes (like straight,
45 and 90 degree). Using these common fittings you can design a line that will fit perfectly, just spend some time under the car and figure out the correct
type of fittings and hose length. A pair of oil cooler lines should cost well below $100 if you choose this route.
Alternatively, the old fittings can be reused to secure a new hose with new clamps. This is also the only way to repair the turbocharger oil lines,
as the space around the turbocharger is insufficient to fit any universal fittings there. Be aware, though, that the fittings are deformed every time the
clamps are tightened on them, so sometimes the repaired line will keep leaking oil. Cost of new hose and clamps is usually no more than $50.
Q: What is the recommended timing belt change interval? Is it important?
A: The timing belt should be renewed every 60k miles. It is also highly advisable to replace the water pump and belt tensioner at
the same time. It is very important, as most Audi engines are of interference type.
Q: What maximum boost pressure should turbocharged engines develop?
A: The maximum boost pressure is 1.3bar for 10V engines and 1.8bar for 20V engines. Keep in mind that the stock boost gauge is not very
accurate. It engine fails to develop expected amount of boost, the cause is usually a fault in the engine management system, for example a faulty WOT (Wide
Open Throttle) switch.
Q: My car won't start. Help!
A: If the "no start" condition happened suddenly and is not an effect of lack of maintenance (like very worn distributor cap), then the
most common common cause is the hall sender at the distributor. To confirm this, you need to pull the error codes from the ECU.
Q: There's a loud buzzing sound from rear of the car
A: It's the fuel pump and if it's loud enough to catch your attention then it means it is pretty much worn. Noisy fuel pumps sometimes
still provide good service for several thousand miles, but if apart from the noise you start to experience performance problems, then it's time to replace
the pump NOW. The new pump costs $150-250 depending on source and manufactturer.
Q: There's a buzzing sound from right side of engine compartment
A: It's the oxygen sensor frequency valve and the it's normal.
Q: Idle speed is unstable
A: The most common cause is dirty ISV (Idle Stabilization Valve). You can remove the valve and clean the inside thoroughly with carb
cleaner. If this doesn't help, then the problem is in the electrical ciruit or the mixture adjustment is way out.
Q: The cooling fan only runs at high speed
A: You'll find a resistor pack bolted to the crossmember under the radiator. If this has failed, the fan will run on high speed only.
Q: The cooling fan on my turbo Audi never runs after shutting the engine off
A: Electric coolant pump and cooling fan should start operating soon after hot engine has been shut off. This is controlled by a
thermoswitch located at the upper coolant flange. Try shorting the two spade connecors together. If the fan runs, then the thermoswitch should be
replaced ($15 at the dealer). If the fan still doesn't run, then it is possible that the electronic controller has failed. Keep in mind that the correct
operation of the afterrun fan and electric coolant pump is essential to keep the turbocharger in good shape.
Q: Cooling fan motor generates loud, screetching sound
A: The fan motor bearings are on the way out. Many parts vendors offer rebuilt motors at about $200, but most electric shops will
simply replace the bearings and much lower price. Particularly if you own a pre-88 model you should not allow the fan motor to operate in this condition.
On those cars the motor is not fused and if the bearings finally seize, it will cause disaster to the electrical system.
Q: Coolant temp gauge works erratically/doesn't work at all
A: It is a common failure mode of the multifunction thermoswitch located at the bottom of the upper coolant flange ($35 at the dealer).
Q: It's difficult to engage gears. Does this mean the transmission is shot?
A: Not necessarily. The shift linkage bushes wear over time and can cause difficulties engaging gears. Also worn engine and transmission
mount cause the engine/transmission assembly to go out of position and make it difficult or even impossible to engage particular gears. If this items are
found to be OK, you can consider replacing the transmission fluid with synthetic one.
Q: Is it true that Audi automatic transmissions are very unreliable?
A: The transmission and differential are quite robust units and can provide a reasonable lifespan, provided that the maintenance
service is performed regularly. Look below for recommended maintenance items. The only element that wears out causing lot of trouble is the seal between
the differential and transmission. If it starts to leak, it allows hypoid fluid and ATF to mix, causing damage to both units. To replace the seal one has to
remove the transmission, but the job is not much more difficult than replacing the clutch on manual trans. car.
Q: How often should I change the fluid and filter?
A: For best results, it is advisable to change the fluid every 30k miles or less. During that time the oil pan should be removed and
cleaned. The filter on these transmissions is of metal mesh type and gets cleaned rather than replaced.
Also remember to check the differential oil level at every ATF change, but it is advisable to do this more often. The differential only holds about 0.5l
of fluid and even a small leak can drain the differential over a short period of time. If the differential oil is always low although no leaks are visible
or, on the contrary, it always appears overfilled, than it is a good sign that the seal between transmission and differential is leaking and the problem
should be addressed as soon as possible.
Q: There's a free play in steering
A: If the obvious items like tie-rod ends prove to be OK, then you may try adjusting the steering gear. The 10mm adjusting nut is
conveniently located on top of the steering gear cover. Tighten the nut approx. 20 degrees and test drive the car. If steering still rattles, tighten further. If
the steering does not self-centre and feels too heavy, back off a little.
Q: I hear strange clunking noises coming from suspension
A: This is the list of possible causes (most common first): Courtesy of Scott Justusson
Q: What fluid should I use?
A: You should use only VW/Audi hydraulic fluid part no. G 002 000 or equivalent. The fluid is also commonly known as
"Pentosin 7.1". You must not use ATF or any common "power steering fluids" as they will cause disaster to the hydraulic system
Q: What is a "bomb"?
A: The "bomb" is a nickname for hydraulic pressure accumulator. It is located near the LH suspension strut and somewhat resembles a
hand grenade. The bomb accumulates about 0.5l of hydraulic fluid under very high pressure. The hydraulic pump cannot provide enough pressure to the brake
servo and ABS unit during emergency braking and that's when the bomb comes into action. Look below for possible symptoms of a faulty bomb.
Q: Brake warning lamp lights/pedal vibrates during hard braking
A: Looks like typical symptoms of a dead bomb. To test the efficiency of the bomb, let the engine run for about minute then switch off
and start pumping the brakes. You should be able to press the pedal at least 10 times before you lose the power assist (new bomb can give as much as 40
depressions). To make sure if the problem really is in the bomb, you can also check the brake servo for leakeage. Start the engine and then remove the servo
return line from the reservoir and observe if any fluid escapes. If you get a continuous fluid flow, then the servo is leaking.
A bomb rarely lasts more than 7 years and costs over $400 from the dealer, but it can be had for as low as $230 from indepent parts vendors. It can't be
repaired (although there was a number of succesfull attempts to recharge a bomb) and buying a used one is not a good idea either.
Q: Power steering pump is leaking
A: No big surprise, it's the most unreliable component in the whole car. Fortunately, it's usually just the seals that wear out and the
pump can be rebuilt by installing a new seal kit, which costs only a little over $10 at the dealer. The procedure is in the Bentley manual, but a high
number of unsuccessful attempts suggests that some special knowledge and experience is needed to do that job. Audi dealers offer rebuilt pumps, but the
price is very high. Finding a competent workshop that will rebuild the pump for you or sell a already rebuilt unit in exchange for your old one is probably
the best idea. When installing the new pump, don't forget to prime the pump with fluid, as it can be damaged if run dry even for very short period of time.
Q: Steering rack is leaking
A: The steering rack, just like the p/s pump, can be rebuilt. The seal kit costs below $50, US listers reported that it is difficult to
obtain in USA, though. Take note that sometimes beside the seal kit it is also necessary to replace/machine the sleeve inside the rack. A rebuilt rack
with new sleeve and a warranty will cost you about $250
Q: The dash lights sometimes fail to come on
A: You should check... licence plate and glovebox bulbs. No, it's not a joke.
Q: Electric window(s) stopped working
A: The most probable cause of inoperative window is faulty window switch. You should remove the switch, carefully open it (not an easy
task) and spray some contact cleaner inside. In most cases this procedure gives very good results
Q: The car keeps killing batteries/the battery doesn't seem to get any charge
A: The thick wire going from the alternator to the battery is spliced in the passenger's footwell. This splice sometimes will
loose conductivity and cause no charging to the battery/dead battery symptoms. Measure the voltage at the battery and at the positive post in the engine
compartment. These should differ by no more than 0.1V. Larger voltage difference points toward faulty splice.
Q: My US-spec Audi has the worst headlights I've ever seen on a car. What's up?
A: For unknown reasons DOT (US Department of Transportation) keeps issuing regulations favoring crappy headlights. And for even more
unknown reasons, Audi headlights seem to be extremely crappy as DOT lights go. The best, but unfortunately, most expensive solution is to change the
headlamps to European ones. They use H4 bulbs, offer way superior light pattern on low beam and increased efficiency on high beam and are a great
improvement over stock ones. They will cost you $500-$700 new incl. shipping.
If you can't afford it, you may substitute with good fog and/or driving lights. Take note note that the use of fog lights in clear weather is mostly
illegal, though. Some manufacturers offer auxillary H4 lights with European beam pattern. It is generally not a good idea to install a higher wattage bulbs in the
stock lamps, as increased load and heat can cause damage to lights and wiring.
Q: Air only blows through defroster vents
A: All air directing flaps in the CC system are actuated using engine vacuum. The default position is "defrost", so if the system is stuck in
this mode that it's more than likely that the system isn't getting enough vacuum. Inspect all vacuum lines going to the CC system.
Q: The system only blows cold air
A: There's a heater valve located at the back of the engine near the firewall. You should see it's arm operating as you alternate between
"LO" and "HI" settings on the CC controller. If this valve is stuck closed you won't be getting any warm air. Take note that this valve is actuated by vacuum, so
vacuum problems may cause it to stay closed as well.
Q: I'm experiencing extreme window fogging
A: Behind the dash, right over passenger's footwell you'll see a flap. This flap controls the air recirculation. It should move as you alternate
between "LO" and "HI" settings on the CC head. Sometimes the spring for this flap breaks and the system is stuck in recirculation mode, hence the fogging.
Q: The system fails to blow hot air unless I press "defrost" button
A: The system is not supposed to blow warm air until the engine has warmed up a little. For this, it monitors the low temperature switch which is a part of
the multifunction temp sensor. The symptoms suggest that this switch has failed. Look here to read more about the multi-function temp sender.
You should not ignore this problem, as it also causes the injection system remain in open-loop mode
Q: Blower fails to operate at all
A: On older blower motors the bearings often dry out, causing the motor to seize. Next time the fan doesn't want to start, stop the car but do not shut off
the engine, open the hood, lift the plastic plenum cover and hit the heater case. The motor should start working. It is advisable to remove and replace or rebuild the motor
if such problems are encountered, but you can temporarily bring the motor back to life by spraying some WD40 and/or contact cleaner into the motor after removing the black
rubber vent hose.
Q: Will performance modifications shorten the life of my engine?
A: The I5 motor is a very robust unit, capable of withstanding much higher stresses than it does in stock configuration. Many people are driving cars with
modified engines and high miles without any ill effects. Take note, though, that this is only true if the performance modifications are competently done. Commercial performance
parts offered by renowned companies are usually thoroughly tested and therefore safe.
Q: My Audi is stock and I would like to put some mods on it. Any precautions?
A: First of all, make sure that your car is in perfect technical condition in it's stock form. There's no point in putting performance parts in a car that doesn't
perform up to factory specs! This particularly applies to engine managment system - injection, ignition and boost control.
FWD cars can experience serious torque steer and increased failure rate of subframe mounts.
If you own a car with automatic transmission, you shouldn't attempt to seriously increase the engine output, as these transmissions can't stand increased torque.
Q: Can I add a turbo to my normally aspirated engine?
A: In the world of automotive performance modifications almost everything is possible, but certainly not everything is worth the effort.
Adding a turbocharger to normally aspirated engine is one of these things. It is not only easier, but also usually cheaper to put a complete turbo engine or simply sell your car
and by a turbocharged one.